Madcow AGM-33 Pike

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Tobor

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The AGM-33 Pike is one kit I've wanted for quite some time. And now, thanks to Papa Elf & my 2019 CIJ Secret Santa, I have one.

Just to start things off, here is the OR file, updated with the measured weights for all the parts and a few things that I will be adding to the mix.

AGM-33 Pike OR.jpg

More to come.
 

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Tobor

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Here is the current list of additional components that will go into this build.

Centering Rings: The kit as supplied comes with 2x .25 thick CRs. One will used at the fwd end of the main fin tabs with the other placed at the aft end of the tail fin tabs. I plan on adding 3 more. One each to bookend the fin tabs and the third to close up the back end of the airframe.

Motor retainer: Although I like the Aero Pack retainers, I really dig the 54mm Giant Leap Qwik-Lok retainer I used on my Mach-1 RIM-66. So, I will adding 38mm GLR Qwik-Lok to this bird. As the Qwik-Lok retainers are much longer then their Aero Pack counterparts, I will need to widen the ID of the aft CR to allow the retainer to recess into the airframe, with only the last quarter inch of the retainer protruding past the CR.

Altimeter: The Pike will be my first kit to use electronic deployment. And to get things going in that direction, I have chosen the EggTimer Proton as the perfect compliment for this build. Note that I still have not decided if this will be a DD rocket.

Nose Cone Bay:
I will be installing a Mac performance 4"x54mm NC Bay set.
 
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Nytrunner

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Its a great size rocket to practice dual deployment. The motors still have ejection charges, and 4" bays are roomy to experiment in.
 

dr wogz

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Here is the current list of additional components that will go into this build.

Centering Rings: The kit as supplied comes with 2x .25 thick CRs. One will used at the fwd end of the main fin tabs with the other placed at the aft end of the tail fin tabs. I plan on adding 3 more. One each to bookend the fin tabs and the third to close up the back end of the airframe.

Motor retainer: Although I like the Aero Pack retainers, I really dig the 54mm Giant Leap Qwik-Lok retainer I used on my Mach-1 RIM-66. So, I will adding 38mm GLR Qwik-Lok to this bird. As the Qwik-Lok retainers are much longer then their Aero Pack counterparts, I will need to widen the ID of the aft CR to allow the retainer to recess into the airframe, with only the last quarter inch of the retainer protruding past the CR.

Altimeter: The Pike will be my first kit to use electronic deployment. And to get things going in that direction, I have chosen the EggTimer Proton as the perfect compliment for this build. Note that I still have not decided if this will be a DD rocket.

Nose Cone Bay:
I will be installing a Mac performance 4"x54mm NC Bay set.
My opinion?! ('cuze, we all have one, and mine is the right one! :D :D )

  • 3 CRs are plenty. My friend built his and had added a third, in the middle of the fins.
  • I would, however add a 1/2" ring (a piece of coupler tube) to the tail, to reinforce the end of the BT, so that ground hits don't dent this part of the rocket. The fins are high up, so they won't hit the ground first, but the tail will. (or whatever depth your last CR is inside the BT..)
  • The AV bay is big. No need for the NC AV bay. Using the supplied AV bay will help you with "traditional" dual deploy set ups.
 

RocketGeekInFL

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This is a great kit, and just happens to be the first thing I see everyday when I pull into my garage. I will send pictures later today.
 

Tobor

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My opinion?! ('cuze, we all have one, and mine is the right one! :D :D )

  • 3 CRs are plenty. My friend built his and had added a third, in the middle of the fins.
  • I would, however add a 1/2" ring (a piece of coupler tube) to the tail, to reinforce the end of the BT, so that ground hits don't dent this part of the rocket. The fins are high up, so they won't hit the ground first, but the tail will. (or whatever depth your last CR is inside the BT..)
  • The AV bay is big. No need for the NC AV bay. Using the supplied AV bay will help you with "traditional" dual deploy set ups.
Thx for the input.
  • I understand your reasoning for 3 CRs. My desire for strength in the aft end must be some form of rocketry OCD.

  • Reinforcing the back end of the airframe is std procedure for my cardboard builds. I use coupler tubing glued and coated with epoxy for extra strength.

  • The NC AV bay is for my EggFinder tracker. My recent experiences at Bong made me realize that "Bongifying" any rocket is a good practice. The MAC bay will make that an easy task for the front end. And yes, I realize that the EggTimer Proton will always be in harms way of Bong water......

This is a great kit, and just happens to be the first thing I see everyday when I pull into my garage. I will send pictures later today.
That would be cool!
 

mbeels

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Nice looking rocket, looking forward to some photos of the construction (and of course the flight!).

Edit: I'm also seriously eyeing the Proton, so I'm interested in hearing about your experiences with it.
 

Tobor

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Nice looking rocket, looking forward to some photos of the construction (and of course the flight!).
Edit: I'm also seriously eyeing the Proton, so I'm interested in hearing about your experiences with it.
Roger that. The rocket construction won't begin for a short spell as I need to decide how best to "Bongify" this bird. So, I'll probably end up assembling the Proton first. And related to that, I need to choose which sled configuration from SMT Designs I am going to use with the Proton.
Sweet!
 

Tobor

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Update:

Sorry folks. Still no pics yet, mainly because I haven't had time and haven't been home much recently. But, I have been ordering stuff. Today I have placed orders with Madcow (1x coupler-3x CRs-2x switch bands) and Giant Leap (38mm QL Retainer - Laminating Epoxy - Aero Rail Buttons).

Also this morning I received confirmation for shipment of my EggTimer Proton. It should arrive next Monday.
 

MikeyDSlagle

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If you really want strength on the aft end, used a stepped ring for a thrust plate. That used to be my go to method but lately I've been either lazy or cheap and haven't taken that route. But I do reinforce the aft end with scrap tube or coupler...or about anything else if I don't have neither of those. I think I glassed the inside of my Mega Magg.
 

Tobor

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If you really want strength on the aft end, used a stepped ring for a thrust plate. That used to be my go to method but lately I've been either lazy or cheap and haven't taken that route. But I do reinforce the aft end with scrap tube or coupler...or about anything else if I don't have neither of those. I think I glassed the inside of my Mega Magg.
Well, the plan is to use a short piece of coupler to add to aft end right between the 4th & 5th CRs. The entire interior will receive a coat of epoxy (cut ~50% with Denatured Alcohol).

The exterior will be glassed using GLRs Easyglas Sock and Aeropoxy Laminating Resin. I will be using a slight variation of John Coker's FG'ing Technique (Link).

All this epoxy treatment stuff is in large part to protect the rocket from all the water traps found at TWA/Woosh launch site at Bong State Recreation Area.
 

crossfire

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Well, the plan is to use a short piece of coupler to add to aft end right between the 4th & 5th CRs. The entire interior will receive a coat of epoxy (cut ~50% with Denatured Alcohol).

The exterior will be glassed using GLRs Easyglas Sock and Aeropoxy Laminating Resin. I will be using a slight variation of John Coker's FG'ing Technique (Link).

All this epoxy treatment stuff is in large part to protect the rocket from all the water traps found at TWA/Woosh launch site at Bong State Recreation Area.
The water at Bong is a challenge this year. I will only fly FG rockets at Bong.
 

Tobor

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update time.

My EggTimer Proton is complete, sans the screw terminals (I really dislike them with a passion).
EggTimer Proton_Top-Small.jpg

EggTimer Proton_Bottom-Small.jpg
I used the soldering iron on all the components except the 24-pin I2C Port Expander. I used the hot air rework wand for that.

Now I need to figure out what connectors I want for the pyro channels. Time to search Digi-Key.
 

Tobor

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The Post Office was kind to me today. My GLR & Madcow orders arrived as well as my NAR L2 pin.

1st pic, kit parts
AGM-33 Pike Kit -Small.jpg

And now some supplies
AGM-33 Pike Supplies-Small.jpg

Building will commence soon. :)
 

Tobor

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Well, I have settled on the color scheme for the Pike.
AGM-33 Pike Advert.jpg
As this scheme is way beyond my ability to produce in spray paint (or any kind of paint for that matter), I will be asking Mark at Stickershock23 to work his magic in creating a full wrap for this build.
 

Andy Greene

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Its a very pretty design-and dont take this the wrong way- but dependent on what the fields and foliage in the surrounding areas you fly look like -
I would use a REALLY colorful chute. Just sayin, you would be hard pressed to see that right in front of your face in a tree here in Fl, been there done that . Always wanted to build that kit- keep us posted.
 

crossfire

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Its a very pretty design-and dont take this the wrong way- but dependent on what the fields and foliage in the surrounding areas you fly look like -
I would use a REALLY colorful chute. Just sayin, you would be hard pressed to see that right in front of your face in a tree here in Fl, been there done that . Always wanted to build that kit- keep us posted.
Our launch site here in WI. Bong is jungle this year. Wetter than ever.
 

Tobor

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Our launch site here in WI. Bong is jungle this year. Wetter than ever.
So so true :(
Its a very pretty design-and dont take this the wrong way- but dependent on what the fields and foliage in the surrounding areas you fly look like -
I would use a REALLY colorful chute. Just sayin, you would be hard pressed to see that right in front of your face in a tree here in Fl, been there done that . Always wanted to build that kit- keep us posted.
Oh, I completely understand your concerns, and I share them. That is why I went with a winter camo theme. As to brightly colored parachutes, both the drogue and main chutes will be neon colored.

Drogue: TFR 24" ULTRA-X (Neon Yellow/Neon Pink)
Main: TFR 48" Crossfire (Neon Orange/Neon Green)
 

Tobor

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Today I worked on a rough concept for the electronics bay.
Pike AV Sled - CAD-Small.jpg
 

Tobor

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Updated the E-Bay when I remembered the design Ian A Dalton posted on the forums a few days ago (Here).

Pike AV Sled v4-Small.jpg

I like this config much better. Thx Ian!

Edit: Btw, Red = LiPo and Blue = Proton.
 

Tobor

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Looking good! What modeling program is that? Doing anything cool for wire management?
I used Fusion 360 although I really prefer AutoCAD.

I really like your solution for charge wells. My idea involves a different methodology but will hopefully be simple to implement. I will detail it fully when I am that point in the build.

As for wire management I am shooting for a near toolless plug-n-play solution. So that will require dressed wiring and sockets integrated into the sled, like your sled has.
 
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Tobor

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Update:
I just finished glassing the payload tube. Not sure how it will turn out.

Later this evening I will post pics and describe the experience in more detail.
 

Tobor

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Well, I have learned a few things from this glassing experience and I will try not to bore y'all to death describing it. So here we go...

Tube Holders 02-Small.jpg
Above are the end caps/tube holders. They were made from an 8 inch tube coupler cut in half and 1 inch switch bands. I opted not to glue the switch bands to the coupler halves as I want to eventually use them for dual deploy. To ensure a snug fit between switch band and coupler I applied 4 small squares of painters tape to each coupler, set 90° apart. Each square consists of two layers of tape. The switch bands were then slid over the squares. I then wrapped painters tape around the bands and coupler to help hold the bands in place and to protect the bands from the epoxy resin that would be applied later. It's an ugly setup but it worked very well.
Glassing Caps - Preped-Small.jpg
Tube holders with Teflon tape applied. The Teflon will help prevent epoxy from seeping into the seam between the switch band and AV tube being glassed.
Caps + AV Tube-Small.jpg
Tube holders installed.
AV Tube - Preped-Small.jpg
GLR Easy-Glas Sock applied by first zip tying one end of the sock, sliding it over the AV tube and pulling on the sock until it was very snug against the AV tube. I then twisted the open end of the sock for several revolutions so it would not go slack and then zip tied as close to the AV tube as possible. Excess sock was cut off.
Work Surface - Prepped-Small.jpg
Work table prepped with wax paper and Mylar wrap taped in place.
AV Tube - Glassed and Wrapped-Small.jpg
AV tube being hung to cure after applying epoxy and Mylar wrap.

And the result... fair to midland. See below.
AV Tube - Cured 01-Small.jpg
AV Tube - Cured 02-Small.jpg
AV Tube - Cured 03-Small.jpg

Edit:
The big lesson learned here is that the material Easy-Glas is made from does not lay flat and smooth like a fiberglass weave does. And there is a lot spacing between the threads. This means that Easy-Glas cannot hold resin like FG.

I will use Easy-Glas on the booster section only because it has already been used on the AV tube. I will need to saturate the Easy-Glas as much as is reasonably possible and hope for a better result then I achieved on the AV tube. Lots of filling and sanding to do on the AV tube still to do....
 
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Speaknoevil

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Yep, tried the fiberglass sock once. It was a pain. Cutting and wrapping much better. My opinion--socks are for wearing, little else.
 
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