Madcow AGM-33 Pike

Discussion in 'High Power Rocketry (HPR)' started by Tobor, Jul 17, 2019.

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  1. Aug 9, 2019 #31

    Tobor

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    Another update:

    Today I glassed the sustainer, sorry no pics. Had the same issues I did during my first attempt. Result will undoubtedly be the same. Sigh.....

    I also made some progress on the MAC nosecone bay. The step on the aft CR was too large for the I.D. of nosecone's shoulder. I used my Dremel to reduce the steps dia.

    NC_Bay - Aft Ring Resizing-Small.jpg
    NC_Bay - Aft Ring Fitting-Small.jpg
     
  2. Aug 14, 2019 #32

    Tobor

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    Yesterday I had time to complete the NC bay, including coating bay tube, bulkplate and rings with epoxy to waterproof them.
    NC Bay Complete - Small.jpg
    NC Bay Complete - Closeup-Small.jpg

    Edit: Used BSI 30 minute for waterproofing thinned 30% with denatured alcohol and Rocketpoxy for assembly.
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2019
  3. Aug 17, 2019 #33

    Tobor

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    Last night I found the misplaced pics of the work done on the lower airframe. Turns out I had transferred them to my gaming rig. Anyhoot, here is what I did.

    Before glassing the lower airframe, I needed a way to seal the fin slots from the epoxy but allow easy removal of the seals after the epoxy cured. My solution was yellow FrogTape. This painters tape is great stuff. It can be applied to a heavy cardboard airframe for many days and then removed without damaging the cardboard. Did that during the build of my LOC Goblin.

    I cut strips of the yellow tape wide enough for 1/16" overlap of the slots. After each strip was laid down, I rubbed the overlaps along their lengths to ensure good adhesion. After the glassing was fully cured, I waited two days, I used my Dremel tool with a EZ Lock 1.5" Diamond Wheel to free the tape from the epoxy. I was careful not to cut into the cardboard.

    After completing the cut around the full perimeter of a tape strip, I used an e-xacto knife to pry up a corner of the cut laminate and slowly peeled it away.

    Before
    Lower Airframe Glassed Fin Slot-Small.jpg

    After
    Lower Airframe Fin Slot Uncovered-Small.jpg

    Edit: To ensure the airframe did not distort around the fin slots during glassing, I used tube couplers placed directly beneath each set of slots.
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2019
  4. Aug 17, 2019 #34

    mbeels

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    Did you have any issues with the epoxy clogging the diamond wheel?

    That looks like a really solid build, and waterproof. Are you anticipating water landings?
     
  5. Aug 17, 2019 #35

    Tobor

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    No I didn't. Note that I set the dremel's speed to the low end, around 7,000 rpm.

    Yeppers, that is affirmative. I fly mostly at Bong State Recreation Area, home to TWA and Woosh. Bong has lots of water traps.

    Here is a pic of my RIM-66 landing (L2 cert flight).
    RIM-66 Cert Flight - Wet Landing-Small.jpg
     
  6. Aug 17, 2019 #36

    mbeels

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    Oh yes, I remember following your Level 2 cert flight. I can see how fiberglass and glass cardboard is a real advantage!
     
  7. Aug 17, 2019 #37

    Rail Dawg

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    That rocket is one of my favorites.

    Looking good!

    Chuck C.
     
  8. Aug 19, 2019 #38

    Tobor

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    Yesterday I had time to sand out the wrinkles/high spots from the fiberglassing on the lower airframe. Actually those wrinkles looked more like the low rolling waves we get on the beaches here in Chicago.

    I also worked on the aft CR to allow it to fit over the GLR motor retainer.

    And I finally got around to do some basic testing on my EggTimer Proton. Worked first try and I like the simple interface EggTimer developed for it.

    Lower Airframe Sanded-Small.jpg
    MMT Aft CR Fitted-Small.jpg
     
  9. Aug 24, 2019 #39

    Tobor

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    Looks like the airframe caught a severe case of "The Ripley" (Bondo G&SP).
    Lower Airframe Bondo'd-Small.jpg
    Sanding and touch ups won't happen until Sunday evening at the earliest.
     
  10. Aug 24, 2019 #40

    Nytrunner

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    Ach, the red plague is a bugger indeed
     
  11. Aug 24, 2019 #41

    gldknght

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    Dark Gray primer will cover the red so it doesn't bleed through your paint job.
     
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  12. Aug 25, 2019 #42

    Tobor

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    Roger that...
    I will be spraying primer on the whole rocket but the airframe will not get any coats of color. Instead I will be using a full wrap from stickershock, once I can order it.
    Btw I still need to update the wraps graphics. I still have not settled on any lettering but I am leaning towards a slightly scaled down version of the stock lettering that Madcow/Stickershock came up with.

    Anyhoot here is what I have so far.
    Pike Graphics 02-Small.jpg
     
  13. Aug 25, 2019 #43

    mbeels

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    I've done a partial wrap, and I suggest painting one coat of paint, it makes repositioning the wrap much easier. It was Mark's suggestion, and I'm glad I did.
     
  14. Aug 25, 2019 #44

    Tobor

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    hmmm okay, sounds like a good idea. What color did you use as an undercoat?
     
  15. Aug 25, 2019 #45

    mbeels

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  16. Aug 27, 2019 #46

    Tobor

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    Thx for the info. Btw, love your upscale of Neil's PDII.

    This morning I had a chance to sand the Bondo down using 220 grit. I used a home brew curved sanding block (made from a sheet of pallet shipping cardboard). You can see it on the work table just to the left of the airframe. It did a good job of helping to prevent flat spots on the airframe.
    Lower Airframe 2nd Sanding-Small.jpg
     
  17. Sep 2, 2019 #47

    Tobor

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    Well, no work done since my last post but I did fire off an email to Mark at Stickershock for a quote on the full color wraps.
     
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  18. Sep 4, 2019 #48

    Tobor

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    Had some time today to get some sanding done. Lower airframe is now ready for primer. Also attacked the AV-Bay with the palm sander using 100 grit sandpaper to make quick work of the waves in the resin. Then used the curved sanding block with 220 to smooths things out. Now the AV-Bay is ready for the Nytrunner red plague of death treatment. :p
     
  19. Sep 4, 2019 #49

    Nytrunner

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    I can't take credit for that moniker, rocketeers have been using the red putty since before I knew high-power existed
     
  20. Sep 14, 2019 #50

    Tobor

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    Hi y'all,
    Sorry to say this build has slowed to a snail's pace. RL keeps getting in the way.

    The only progress I've made in assembly... (Sorry no pics)
    • Cutting the thread of a 1/4-20 eyebolt to an acceptable length.
    • Cleaned eyebolt, 2 nuts & 2 washers with Isopropyl alcohol and then sanded top and bottom faces of the nuts and washers.
    • Applied JB Weld to the above sanded faces and bolted the 1/4-20 eyebolt to the forward CR. Then I buttered the finished hardware assembly with more JB Weld. Now I am sure that eyebolt will never detach from the CR.
    • After JBW had cured I epoxied the forward CR into the airframe.
    I have also updated the layout to this build. I came up with a better solution to setting up this kit for Hybrid Dual Deploy (Single Deploy of drogue & main w/JLCR) while still allowing for a conversion to traditional Dual Deploy at anytime.
    Pike-03.jpg
    The plan is to use Nylon 6/6 1/4-20 nuts & allthread rods to hold the 6" coupler's position and still allow for easy access to the EggTimer Proton.
    I have attached my .Ork file for any one interested.
     

    Attached Files:

  21. Nov 5, 2019 #51

    Tobor

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    Well, it has been awhile since my last post. I had put this build hold as I was waiting for the wallet to fatten up. I wanted to purchase and apply the Stickershock full wrap a little further on in the build. But the wallet is losing weight atm and I got tired of waiting. Not sure now how I will decorate this bird. Time will tell.

    Anyhoot, work resumed two weekends ago and is progressing slowly.

    Switch Band-Small.jpg
    I used the "Sock" to glass the switch band. I did not wrap the band with Mylar after applying the Aeropoxy (6209 instead of 2032). I knew it would just make a big mess of things. A few days later I used the "Red Stuff" to fill all the voids and smooth things out. It can still use one more thin coat at some point in the future.
    MMT and Fwd CRs-Small.jpg
    Last weekend I took measurements and did the math so I knew where to epoxy the 2nd CR to the 38mm MMT (Had to allow for recessing the motor retainer into the airframe). Used Rocketpoxy for this step as it cures a lot faster then Aeropoxy. After the epoxy achieved a good set, I installed the combo into the airframe.
    I was a tad nervous I would fubar this somewhere along the way, but it lined up perfectly in the end. Now only three CRs left to install.

    Today I started working on cutting the plywood pieces for the ebay tray.

    Till next time...
     
  22. Nov 5, 2019 #52

    mbeels

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    It's nice when things line up like they're supposed to. I'll be interested in seeing how your AV bay turns out, it's an interesting concept for layout.
     
  23. Nov 8, 2019 #53

    Tobor

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    Yeppers, it is. I call it an "Offset-X Sled"
    Offset-X Sled Dryfit-Small.jpg
    Offset-X Sled 01-Small.jpg
    Offset-X Sled 02-Small.jpg
    The offset allows the 1/4-20 All Thread a clear path through the AV-Bay. I made it from 0.2" plywood that was reclaimed awhile back from an old custom open frame computer case I designed about 8 years ago.

    I haven't epoxied any of it together yet but I'll get to it soon.
     
  24. Nov 14, 2019 #54

    Tobor

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    A little more progress...
    Offset-X Sled + Proton + Turnigy_01-Small.jpg
    Offset-X Sled + Proton + Turnigy_02-Small.jpg
    The 3D printed pieces are components borrowed from the 2 SMT products I own. The carrier (for EggTimer Proton) comes from my Miss Riley AV-Bay kit and the LiPo battery holder is from my 54mm End Mount Tracker Sled. The carrier I will be swapping between rockets as needed but I will need to order a couple of LiPo holders from Steve for this rocket. One will be a dupe of the holder in the pic above and the other will need to be a customized version of the others, sized for a Turnigy 460mAh 2S 25C pack.
     
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