Archetype Rocketry Presents...

explosive bolts for stage separation.:y:

I want to see a system of nuts (similar to Three Dogs I think) where I can run one threaded rod through my ebay and connect my recovery train directly to that. I think it's Three Dogs that has a system like that but it's only in the 8/32 thread size. I would like something with a larger hole so I could connect a small quick link and also a way of preventing the anchor from spinning. 6/32 and other thread sizes would be nice.

DAllen said:

I want to see a system of nuts (similar to Three Dogs I think) where I can run one threaded rod through my ebay and connect my recovery train directly to that. I think it's Three Dogs that has a system like that but it's only in the 8/32 thread size. I would like something with a larger hole so I could connect a small quick link and also a way of preventing the anchor from spinning. 6/32 and other thread sizes would be nice.

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Check out Dog House Rocketry (different than Three Dogs) they have a silimar anchor post, look at the very bottom of the "Altimeter Bay & Electronics" page. They come in 4-40 or 2-56 sizes, perfect for threaded rod on minimum diameter projects and such things as the Featherweight Av Bays. But they also say that 6-32 and 8-32 is available on request.

Lucas I'd like to see someone make a very small shroud or fairing to cover the lens of an on-board video camera. Both the keychain 808 cameras and the BoosterCam HD camera can be hacked so that the circuit board, battery, etc are housed inside the rocket and just the lens extends through the airframe wall, and both lenses have a similarly tiny footprint. Simply strapping the whole works to the side of your rocket makes moving it from one rocket to the next fast and easy, but it doesn't look that great and is far less aerodynamic. You could make a shroud without too much trouble from a spare nose cone, but I wouldn't want to sacrifice a nice fiberglass one for this purpose and a plastic one seems a bit too flimsy for mach-busters. I'm currently playing around with forming one from thin sheet metal for a minimum diameter build, but I'd love to see someone produce a purpose-made item for this. I'm guessing there are enough folks out there with keychain cams that there'd be some interest.

beezwax said:

Lucas I'd like to see someone make a very small shroud or fairing to cover the lens of an on-board video camera. Both the keychain 808 cameras and the BoosterCam HD camera can be hacked so that the circuit board, battery, etc are housed inside the rocket and just the lens extends through the airframe wall, and both lenses have a similarly tiny footprint. Simply strapping the whole works to the side of your rocket makes moving it from one rocket to the next fast and easy, but it doesn't look that great and is far less aerodynamic. You could make a shroud without too much trouble from a spare nose cone, but I wouldn't want to sacrifice a nice fiberglass one for this purpose and a plastic one seems a bit too flimsy for mach-busters. I'm currently playing around with forming one from thin sheet metal for a minimum diameter build, but I'd love to see someone produce a purpose-made item for this. I'm guessing there are enough folks out there with keychain cams that there'd be some interest.

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I have made these and offered them for sale in the past with very little interest. Sized for 3" tubing, but fits 4" tubing just as well. I have a fiberglass and carbon fiber one "in stock." I could be prompted to make more if people are interested.

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showt...icro-Keychain-Cameras&highlight=camera+shroud

/end hijack

patelldp said:

I have made these and offered them for sale in the past with very little interest. Sized for 3" tubing, but fits 4" tubing just as well. I have a fiberglass and carbon fiber one "in stock." I could be prompted to make more if people are interested.

https://www.rocketryforum.com/showt...icro-Keychain-Cameras&highlight=camera+shroud

/end hijack

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Hi Dan, I actually saw that thread at some time in the past, that's a very nicely made shroud. It's kind of what I was talking about, except that you're making a shroud for the entire keychain camera which is still strapped to the outside of the rocket airframe. I'm talking about when the camera is taken apart and the circuit board/battery/etc is housed inside the airframe and just the camera lens itself (connected by ribbon wire) extends outside the airframe. This would create far less drag and require a shroud just a fraction of the size of the one you made to cover the entire camera (the lens itself is only about 1/4 inch square). But maybe there wouldn't be a lot of interest in this either if you didn't get much response...

It works!!! Hey Mikey!!!

:headbang: :headbang: :headbang: :headbang: :headbang:

beezwax said:

Check out Dog House Rocketry (different than Three Dogs) they have a silimar anchor post, look at the very bottom of the "Altimeter Bay & Electronics" page. They come in 4-40 or 2-56 sizes, perfect for threaded rod on minimum diameter projects and such things as the Featherweight Av Bays. But they also say that 6-32 and 8-32 is available on request.

Click to expand...

It's close but...What I want different

1. More threading on the anchor so I don't have to have that threaded rod cut to the nearest bazillionth of an inch.

2. Bigger over all.

3. Bigger hole so I can get a small quicklink through it.

4. Something to prevent it from spinning off the threaded rod.

For the fourth point, all you need is loctite threadlocker compound.

CarVac said:

For the fourth point, all you need is loctite threadlocker compound.

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But if I put that on there can I get the nut anchor off again? I would need to be able to do that in order to take apart the ebay.

DAllen said:

But if I put that on there can I get the nut anchor off again? I would need to be able to do that in order to take apart the ebay.

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Use blue thread lock and you are fine (i.e., don't use the red, permanent thread lock).

If you want to avoid loctite you can also just use a "jam nut" to prevent it from spinning free.

Bigger overall would be nice, but I think would quickly start to get in the way for the smaller diameter airframes that these are intended. For bigger birds you can also look for "eye nuts" such as these in 1/4-20, 5/16-18, and 3/8-16 threads:

https://www.cdimodelrocketry.com/proddetail.php?prod=CK3908

Jeff, did you mount your altimeter in the nosecone? If so, pictures would be appreciated.

I'm in the same boat with some large motor eject HPRs and the Cable Cutter is looking very attractive. At my age, I'm not a big fan of chasing rockets over hill and dale. Takes too much time away from from the limited launch opportunities here in NorCal.

Mine is intended for a 2.6" Standard ARM. The strakes make traditional DD difficult. Also will work well for my 1.88" mini-THOR which sims to around 3k ft.

o1d_dude said:

Jeff, did you mount your altimeter in the nosecone? If so, pictures would be appreciated.

I'm in the same boat with some large motor eject HPRs and the Cable Cutter is looking very attractive. At my age, I'm not a big fan of chasing rockets over hill and dale. Takes too much time away from from the limited launch opportunities here in NorCal.

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Ah... I see where you are going there... no... I've done that once using a G-Wiz and was never very happy with it. Though again, I might try it now. But the whole setup was quite rube goldberg'ish. No the Dagger has a payload section. I am not building anything for electronics that does not. And I have already convert one of my scratch built rockets to have a payload section. Most rockets are long enough to cut. You already lose 4 to 6 inches (10cm to 15cm) for the nosecone shoulder. And you'll need a 3 ro 4 inches (8cm to 10cm) on either side for a coupler. Electronics are small. You'll need maybe 8 inch (20cm) minimum to make the bay.

I am not sophisticated. In my Javelin the altimeter is on a piece of lite-ply whose width just fits inside the payload bay coupler at the bottom. The wire to the charge runs out a small hole in the bulk plate. I then place a big ol' hunk of foam rubber on top of the board so the board does not bang around or slide forward. The two wires that switch it on are run past the foam and are left taped apart so they can not short until ready.

At the pad I put the rocket on the pad. Take off the nose cone. Take the tape off the wires. Twist them together. Take the tape and wrap it around the wires to keep them together. Carefully put the nose cone on back on FIRMLY (use tape or use a plastic rivet but be firm). My vet holes are towards the bottom of the payload bay so they can not blocked by the foam rubber.

Very very lo tech.

Say I ordered some cutters on Black Friday. Any idea when those will be shipping?

DAllen said:

Say I ordered some cutters on Black Friday. Any idea when those will be shipping?

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I have posted on the website that all orders are expected to ship by Dec 10 but they may ship before that. I wanted to make sure that I gave myself enough time to machine everything and not have to tell everyone they will be delayed. But I may more realistically get orders shipped by the middle of next week.

I will post here with more details on shipping times as I get some more progress.

Got my cutter setup in my 54mm min dia. going up on a K700 this weekend. Thanks lucas, this is much cleaner that the version i made

That looks awesome! You should be around Mach 2 with that thing, hope the fins are on good.

I am going to be installing my cutter in my Formula 38 as soon as it gets here. Planning to test it out in that rocket before graduating to a larger rocket.

my cable cutter redundancy pack arrived today in Munich / Germany..woaao...you were very fast. Looks great!

I will post my first test with the hybrid 4" V2 soon.

Thx again for the deal, great stuff!

D.

First Black Friday status update:
I got over 125 pistons cut and machined and over 50 E-match screw caps drilled out. The bags for any Cable Cutter orders have been cut, and the cable ties and o-rings have been sealed in. I will start the bodies tomorrow morning. Those who have E-match style orders will most likely ship out first since I am still awaiting my carbide bits to use for the Q2G2 style. All orders should be shipped out by the end of the week hopefully. Thanks again - I will keep you all updated when I get more done.

Lookin forward to the Q2G2 caps! Thanks for the great service!

T-Rex said:

Mine is intended for a 2.6" Standard ARM. The strakes make traditional DD difficult. Also will work well for my 1.88" mini-THOR which sims to around 3k ft.

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Three different Electronic units come to mind for mounting in the nose cone and using motor ejection. A Featherweight Raven will work using only the main output to fire the cutter. The Raven detects Apogee with the Accelerometer and Main with the Baro sensor. You can vent it through the NC shoulder so it knows where it started. A Transolve Flux Capacitor detects apogee through the changes in the magnetic field when the rocket arches over then it has a timer you can set for main deployment. You could use the A PICO Alt PICO-AA2 in a similar fashion to the Raven. I have a friend that has used the PICO and the Flux Capacitor to do dual deploy without them firing the apogee charge. I think he has even used on of them with the Archetype cable cutter.

Sailorbill said:

Three different Electronic units come to mind for mounting in the nose cone and using motor ejection. A Featherweight Raven will work using only the main output to fire the cutter. The Raven detects Apogee with the Accelerometer and Main with the Baro sensor. You can vent it through the NC shoulder so it knows where it started. A Transolve Flux Capacitor detects apogee through the changes in the magnetic field when the rocket arches over then it has a timer you can set for main deployment. You could use the A PICO Alt PICO-AA2 in a similar fashion to the Raven. I have a friend that has used the PICO and the Flux Capacitor to do dual deploy without them firing the apogee charge. I think he has even used on of them with the Archetype cable cutter.

Click to expand...

I have used barometric altimeters in a nosecone plenty of times before with no issues. I know the rule of thumb says not to but it works for me.

lkal32 said:

Is that the diameter of each wire? How about them twisted together?

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That was each wire. The twist is pretty tight so I think 2x is a reasonable guess for the total diameter. I can measure a few tomorrow if you want.

Each wire is .035 twisted together about .070

Update #2
I cut, sized, drilled out, tapped, and chamfered about 100 cable cutters. I still have yet to drill in the cable tie holes, chamfer those, and then polish the cutters before they are done. I expect shipping on the e-match versions to go by Wednesday and the Q2G2 versions to follow very shortly after that. Sorry about the wait - I am getting them done as quick as I can.

Orders placed with cutters and accessories as e-match style only will ship out today. All other orders will ship shortly.