Finally pulled the trigger for L1

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Alright..... everyone please take a step back... and take a breath.

Yes i did ask for recommendations on a secondary vehicle in my OP. this said in a subsequence post i mentioned that yes i could just DD the zephyr by purchasing a few components. After that, this thread went to a building thread. which is where it's at now. (this said.. i will be getting another rocket so... there's that)

as for building techniques on what 'others' have done... my zephyr is complete except for painting of the fins, and some light touch-up work on the BT and NC due to being tipped over yesterday (couple scratches on both.. nothing dire). I bought a 'el cheapo digital scale from Walmart and it was delivered yesterday.. nothing expensive.. think 17 bucks.. but it'll do grams, pounds/oz/fluid oz as this is a kitchen scale for which i'll be able to weigh the NC and do that offset into open rocket (which i have no clue how it really works yet...)

Today... This morning, i'll be attaching the 'chute, 'chute protector, shock cord to NC. Later on today even though i'll be on the cusp of lower temperature (52) for spraying the fins and light touch-up. i'll get'er done, and get the heater going in the shop prior to spraying. Additionally i'll have the rocket, and paint warmed up to 70 to 75 degrees prior. spraying time should be minimal.. so i'm hoping that the warmed rocket and paint will give me the 8 to 10 minutes spraying time, then into the prewarmed shop.

on a side note.. the fumes from the paint are still emanating from 2 days ago.. meaning.. i'm sure that the paint is still drying.

i'll report back later today on my progress.

r-
 
so bummed.. launch cancelled for this weekend due to high winds..🌪️

guess i'll have time for the decals now thou..
Sorry man. I know that stinks. But....yeah! Decals, get 'em done!
On a whim I looked at Stickershock and saw that he had multiple color options for the Zephyr decals. I didn't pay attention to that before the build, otherwise I might have picked a different scheme. At least I know for when I inevitably get a Zephyr Jr.
 
Sorry man. I know that stinks. But....yeah! Decals, get 'em done!
On a whim I looked at Stickershock and saw that he had multiple color options for the Zephyr decals. I didn't pay attention to that before the build, otherwise I might have picked a different scheme. At least I know for when I inevitably get a Zephyr Jr.
did the first coat on the fins.. and i'm thinking that where the sustainer suffered some paint scratching.. the decals will cover.. :)
 

on a side note.. the fumes from the paint are still emanating from 2 days ago.. meaning.. i'm sure that the paint is still drying.
r-

In the interests of fairness and honesty-in-reporting, I rushed my last coat of white before the undercoats were completely dry (I *thought* they were, but I think a lot of things). So there's a small patch of crazed white paint on my body tube that I had to sand back lightly. But very much in the same vein as your little paint issue....it's in a place where a decal will cover it, so SHHHHHHHHHHH I won't tell if you don't. 😆
 



In the interests of fairness and honesty-in-reporting, I rushed my last coat of white before the undercoats were completely dry (I *thought* they were, but I think a lot of things). So there's a small patch of crazed white paint on my body tube that I had to sand back lightly. But very much in the same vein as your little paint issue....it's in a place where a decal will cover it, so SHHHHHHHHHHH I won't tell if you don't. 😆
... the decals i just put on.. covered my 'ruff' spots. hopefully yours will too.
r-
 
Well heck.. no flyin' this weekend :( .

Today cold as heck (24 deg.).. so i got the decal sheet out and adhered them to the BT, and fins. Basically i just got a water bottle placed a couple o' drops of Dawn and put some water in and swished it round. I did put the centerline as mentioned in the instruction booklet. But realistically the only part of that line i used was for placing the large half-round decal.. just for centering at the top of the BT. (if i were to do the decals again.. i'd only place the line at the top 2" of the BT).

Other things i've done.. played with the JRCL. it seems to work fine, abet finding the proper 'chute folding technique. there are several i've found.. lanyards on the outside wrapped around, and lanyards within the folded 'chute. And i've played with the Altimeter 2. not much to play with there though.. I made a rocket holder out of 3/4" pvc.. simple and low cost

So, at this point the Zephyr is ready to rock.. but looking like more 3 weeks for its maiden voyage.

Stay Warm..,
r-
 

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Although the Feb launch is a TRA launch, you can do NAR or Tripoli cert flights. There will be both NAR and Tripoli certifiers available.
Plan on Feb 3-4 with backup Feb 17-18.
 
Well heck.. no flyin' this weekend :( .

Today cold as heck (24 deg.).. so i got the decal sheet out and adhered them to the BT, and fins. Basically i just got a water bottle placed a couple o' drops of Dawn and put some water in and swished it round. I did put the centerline as mentioned in the instruction booklet. But realistically the only part of that line i used was for placing the large half-round decal.. just for centering at the top of the BT. (if i were to do the decals again.. i'd only place the line at the top 2" of the BT).

Other things i've done.. played with the JRCL. it seems to work fine, abet finding the proper 'chute folding technique. there are several i've found.. lanyards on the outside wrapped around, and lanyards within the folded 'chute. And i've played with the Altimeter 2. not much to play with there though.. I made a rocket holder out of 3/4" pvc.. simple and low cost

So, at this point the Zephyr is ready to rock.. but looking like more 3 weeks for its maiden voyage.

Stay Warm..,
r-
Practicing with the JLCR is definitely a must. Are you using hair ties or the rubber bands?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09XLD3D4Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
Looks good! It's a darn pretty rocket.
thanks... appreciate that.. i tried to take my time and do it right. there's still one spot on the transition from BT to fin where the paint isn't quite right.. but with a couple o' weeks i'm gonna spray the white into a cup, and just detail with a hobby paint brush.

r-
 
Although the Feb launch is a TRA launch, you can do NAR or Tripoli cert flights. There will be both NAR and Tripoli certifiers available.
Plan on Feb 3-4 with backup Feb 17-18.
yep... already on that. and hopefully we won't get washed out of those dates, as my DW and i are going on vacation from the feb 6th to the end of the month. this said... i only have one H100W, and 2 G80's. after my initial flight, i was hoping to purchase an AT H140.. anyway, i looked at kens calendar and he will not be in Dalzell on feb 3/4. so... short flights.

r-
 
yep... already on that. and hopefully we won't get washed out of those dates, as my DW and i are going on vacation from the feb 6th to the end of the month. this said... i only have one H100W, and 2 G80's. after my initial flight, i was hoping to purchase an AT H140.. anyway, i looked at kens calendar and he will not be in Dalzell on feb 3/4. so... short flights.

r-
There's enough time for a club member or someone else planning to attend to offer up an H motor to get you to the finish line. If I had an H right now, I would gladly help.
Anybody?
 
I have in 29 mm AT 29/240 H180, H97, CTI 29-6G I204, H160, 29-4G H255, H42, 29-5G H53. You can borrow hardware for any. I will have to dig out my CTI delay adjust tool. Don't have an Aerotech one, just eyeball it.
 
I have in 29 mm AT 29/240 H180, H97, CTI 29-6G I204, H160, 29-4G H255, H42, 29-5G H53. You can borrow hardware for any. I will have to dig out my CTI delay adjust tool. Don't have an Aerotech one, just eyeball it.
WOW... thank you! i do have an AT delay tool.. and obviously i would pay for any motor.. (i'll be sure to have some cash on me..)

i've been here for a 2 months.. and humbly, i say that everyone here ROCKS! Thank you..

ron-
 
I'll bring some with hardware if you need it. Got plenty of starters, make the ones Wildman sells.
I'll be bringing some 18 mm fiberglass motor case tube for Pat Bunn.
Use them for clusters, have 4 29/240, 4 CTI 29-3G and 2 CTI -6G with spacers. (Also have 4 AT 29-360 but no certified loads.)
 
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i'm using the supplied rubber-bands. the small ones seem to work perfect.. well here in my office.. LOL Hair Ties? i'll take a peek at those..! thanks!

r-
got 'cha... finally had a chance to look. i'll get these after the supplied bands are trashed... thanks for the heads up on these..

r-
 
well.. something i forgot was to drill pressure holes for the altimeter, and so the NC wont pop out. since the rocket has been painted, thinking i'll place blue tape on both sides of the BT prior to drilling.

please correct me if i'm wrong, for my zephyr, 2 1/8" holes on opposite sides of the BT, and drillnear where altimeter is located in BT?

thanks in advance,

r-
 
i'm using the supplied rubber-bands. the small ones seem to work perfect.. well here in my office.. LOL Hair Ties? i'll take a peek at those..! thanks!

r-
I use the hair ties for their intended purpose. Usually have a couple spares :)
 
I wouldn't use more than one 1/8" hole. A dual deploy would use 3X1/8" vent holes but being a L1 flight and motor eject I would be more concerned about the nose cone not coming off with the parachute. The Zephyr has a LOT of volume for a 38mm motor ejection charge.
 
Today.. i went ahead and drilled 2 3/16" vents on the Zephyr. one along the rail guide line, and on the opposite side 8 inches down the sustainer. (i'm thinking the JLCR and the Alt.2 fob could be just about there.. although that was not considered when deciding the placement marks). i did strengthen up the drilled vent with thin CA, then sanded down on the inside smooth.. this said the painting had already been completed on the NC & BT so i did get'er done on the outside, but it's not 100% smooth. It was a nice day so after completing the vents, i clear coated both the BT and NC.
 
Still needing H motors? I'll be bringing a few with hardware. Look me up, dark grey van. I will have scaled down Ultimates for 18 and 24 mm motors with research loads for them. They will be flying naked :)
 
Still needing H motors? I'll be bringing a few with hardware. Look me up, dark grey van. I will have scaled down Ultimates for 18 and 24 mm motors with research loads for them. They will be flying naked :)
Yes.. I will have a 29 to 38mm adapter for the 2 G80s. Which brings up, I ordered the wrong AT delay drilling tool.. I ordered the RMS Vs the DMS tool. My H100 & G80s are both AT DMS 14s timers. So I'm hoping I can borrow one, or better, have someone show me how.. especially on the first one. Which is not only its maiden flight., but the certification flight. Rocsim says 8.3 second second delay.

I've got a white f250. My grandson will be there as well as we had time to build an Estes kit today.

r-
 
One end is for taking away 4sec delay and other end is for taking away 8sec delay. To get 6sec, you use the washer because it's 1/16in thick or 2sec. You'll want the 6sec to go from 14sec to 8sec.

Aerotech says "As is always the case with drilled DMS (and RMS) delays, the delay element should be installed in the motor with the drilled end facing the propellant grains (or away from the ejection charge) for best delay accuracy. Also, no delay should be shortened to less than 4 seconds."

I was taught to tap the poured ejection charge into the drilled hole then insert the plug. Anyone do it this way?
 
He's using a DMS motor (single use). You have to go through the touch hole to access the delay. Will probably have to eyeball it. I do have methods.
 
Aerotech says "As is always the case with drilled DMS (and RMS) delays, the delay element should be installed in the motor with the drilled end facing the propellant grains (or away from the ejection charge) for best delay accuracy. Also, no delay should be shortened to less than 4 seconds."

I was taught to tap the poured ejection charge into the drilled hole then insert the plug. Anyone do it this way?
After drilling a DMS delay, pour in a small amount of BP and shake it into the touch hole. Then add the rest and cap it. The DMS motor comes completely assembled and you remove the cap and ejection charge to access the delay.
 
I will be bringing the tool I use on the 18 and 24 mm motors. It's a drill bit with a collar you can use as a stop. Measure distance to delay, add amount you want to remove, set stop and drill.
 
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