Estes Great Goblin Advertisement

[cwbullet]

Or a Mega Mean Machine. 4" by 16', plus the fin overhang. Of all my bad ideas, that recurring notion is the worst.

BT101 Mean Machine would rock.

 

[smstachwick]

BT101 Mean Machine would rock.

4” Gnome. I know of a 2.6” one that’s very impressive on G power.

 

[cwbullet]

4” Gnome. I know of a 2.6” one that’s very impressive on G power.

Like this Gnome?

 

[smstachwick]

Like this Gnome?

View attachment 611089

The very same.

 

[Scott_650]

Or a Mega Mean Machine. 4" by 16', plus the fin overhang. Of all my bad ideas, that recurring notion is the worst.

A 2” diameter by 7.5’ long Big Mean Machine would be an interesting option - might need to grab the laptop and sim that…then order some tubes…

 

[SolarYellow]

4” Gnome. I know of a 2.6” one that’s very impressive on G power.

Where do you get a 2.6-in upscale of the PNC-20N? Printed?

 

[cwbullet]

Where do you get a 2.6-in upscale of the PNC-20N? Printed?

I can make it.

 

[DocSeuss]

What

Or how about a Mega Great Goblin?

What would one use for tubing, seeing as Estes tubes are all pre cut for 3 instead of 4 fins?

 

[cwbullet]

What

What would one use for tubing, seeing as Estes tubes are all pre cut for 3 instead of 4 fins?

If Estes produces it, they would have to have another tube made. If I make it, I am cutting new slots.

 

[bad_idea]

What

What would one use for tubing, seeing as Estes tubes are all pre cut for 3 instead of 4 fins?

Estes 3" tubes are 3" OD instead of 3" ID like high power tubes, but Estes 4" tubes match the 3.9" ID of high power tubes. I will probably use LOC cardboard tubes for my 4" Estes upscales. They are 34" long (like BMS tubes, but sadly BMS doesn't stock 4").

 

[SolarYellow]

Fin and decal scans posted on YORF:

https://www.oldrocketforum.com/showpost.php?p=273577&postcount=19
I can't endorse using them to build your own clone of a just-introduced kit, but as mentioned there, I plan to use the data in the creation of my 4-inch Goblin.

It doesn't escape my notice that $70 at AC Supply will get you both a Doorknob and a DBRM kit. If one was to buy both of those, one could swap body tubes and nose cones and build a Great Goblin and an Alpha upscale pretty elegantly. I believe plywood fin kits exist for both conversions.

 

[Back_at_it]

Just ordered a fin and ring kit from Bad Boy. I'm thinking I want to build one for Halloween but I can't decide what color to paint it. Not going with the traditional yellow.

 

[samb]

Just ordered a fin and ring kit from Bad Boy. I'm thinking I want to build one for Halloween but I can't decide what color to paint it. Not going with the traditional yellow.

The "traditional" green and purple (hot pink highlights optional) ?

 

[DocSeuss]

Estes 3" tubes are 3" OD instead of 3" ID like high power tubes, but Estes 4" tubes match the 3.9" ID of high power tubes. I will probably use LOC cardboard tubes for my 4" Estes upscales. They are 34" long (like BMS tubes, but sadly BMS doesn't stock 4").

Oh, interesting. I assume it'd be best to use the MDRM nose, right? Does that match the OD as well?

 

[SolarYellow]

MDRM nose cone fits all the industry-standard 4-in tubes ID and OD, such as AT and LOC.

 

[James Duffy]

It doesn't escape my notice that $70 at AC Supply will get you both a Doorknob and a DBRM kit. If one was to buy both of those, one could swap body tubes and nose cones and build a Great Goblin and an Alpha upscale pretty elegantly. I believe plywood fin kits exist for both conversions.

Did someone say Alpha upscale?



I have the Illustrator fin file for this, and would be happy to share with a vendor who might use it to make the fins available.

James

 

[SolarYellow]

Is Galactic not sustaining the offering?

https://galacticmanufacturing.com/products/3-diameter-estes-alpha-upscale-parts-kit

 

[cwbullet]

I received my Goblin today. Not a bad kit.

 

[lakeroadster]

Or how about a Mega Great Goblin?

I gotta do a scratch build of a Goblin, classic lines... what makes it "Mega"? A 4" dia. body?

 

[cwbullet]

I gotta do a scratch build of a Goblin, classic lines... what makes it "Mega"? A 4" dia. body?

Let your imagination decide. 4-5"

 

[Pinetree]

Galactic closed up shop.

 

[SolarYellow]

I gotta do a scratch build of a Goblin, classic lines... what makes it "Mega"? A 4" dia. body?

I've been using the connection that it uses the Mega Der Red Max nose cone:

https://estesrockets.com/products/072415-pro-series-ii™-4-plastic-nose-cone

 

[lakeroadster]

I've been using the connection that it uses the Mega Der Red Max nose cone:

https://estesrockets.com/products/072415-pro-series-ii™-4-plastic-nose-cone

I'll turn my own..

 

[MALBAR 70]

My Great Goblin arrived today! Looks like a fun build.

 

[dpower]

So I got home and actually measured a DRM cone, PNC-60AH. It turns out that the end of the straight at the base, where it actually starts to taper, is close enough to call it 14mm from the base. Which gives the tapered part of the cone the exact same fineness ratio, to three significant figures, as the Goblin. Just have to paint the bottom 9/16" of the cone airframe color to have it look perfect, and tolerate the split being a little more visible because it's not in a color transition. Just like using the DBRM cone to build a 3-in Goblin.

I have no idea why upscaling Goblins to BT-60 using DRM cones isn't a thing, but it should be.

My Great Goblin arrived a couple days ago, just unpacked it. The BT is an accurate scale up, from 9" to ~21.4", but since the NC is not (12.4" instead of 11.3", based on a 5" original), the overall model is about 1.1" too tall. Since I'd like to match the original ratios (I'm picky that way), do I cut down the BT, and paint the bottom 1.1" of the NC yellow, or attempt to shorten the NC? I'll probably shorten the BT, as that seems easier, and I'd like to fly this in November. This is more than SolarYellow recommends, since the NC has started a slight curve at 1.1", so another option would be to split the difference, just cut 9/16" off the BT.

 

[MALBAR 70]

Started on my Great Goblin this afternoon. Got the spirals filled and the fins sanded and glued together. I'm happy I found my motivation, it's been quite a while since I've built anything.

 

[SolarYellow]

My Great Goblin arrived a couple days ago, just unpacked it. The BT is an accurate scale up, from 9" to ~21.4", but since the NC is not (12.4" instead of 11.3", based on a 5" original), the overall model is about 1.1" too tall. Since I'd like to match the original ratios (I'm picky that way), do I cut down the BT, and paint the bottom 1.1" of the NC yellow, or attempt to shorten the NC? I'll probably shorten the BT, as that seems easier, and I'd like to fly this in November. This is more than SolarYellow recommends, since the NC has started a slight curve at 1.1", so another option would be to split the difference, just cut 9/16" off the BT.

When I measured a DBRM NC with calipers, there was a little puffing out above the base, but it basically returned to the starting diameter at the base at right around an inch. So that's a reasonable point to say where the ogive starts. Close enough, anyway.

If I was just going to do normal mods to the shoulder and fill the wedge or whatever, I'd probably paint a strip of the base of the NC yellow. Might experiment with a black stripe at the top of the BT to de-emphasize the NC/BT joint in yellow. With a 3D printer, the odds are good that I'd cut the NC at the 1 inch point and print a new base and shoulder with integral ebay/sled mounting features.

At this point, I've decided to make my upscale Goblin in 4-inch with a MDRM NC, so I'll be working with that situation instead.

 

[Back_at_it]

ModelRockets321 has a new video out. He flew the Great goblin three times and broke two fins in the process landing under a 30" chute.

 

[Pinetree]

"We have to upgrade to the plywood..."

 

[cwbullet]

"We have to upgrade to the plywood..."

Maybe or use a bigger chute.