What did you do rocket wise today?

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Not the adhesive being structural, but the fact that its bond itself it way stronger than cardboard and balsa/plywood, etc... that is used. As you know when you look at most even supersonic failures its not the bond that broke its the material. Using epoxy with cardboard would be like using titebond to assemble a fiberglass rocket. Its really makes no sense unless some sort of plastic or stronger material is evolved with the wood. That may not be 100% correct* but don't think I'm far off.

* edited.
I may not have been clear. Certainly what you've said there is correct.

You were referring, I think, to applying epoxy to the top end of a body tube in order to strengthen it, much as you've already done with CA, not to bond anything else to it. When you soak any sort of glue - CA, PVA, or epoxy - into paper, you're making a composite. While attaching two pieces of balsa or cardboard with epoxy makes an assembly that's no stronger than attaching them with PVA, I'm suggesting that paper-epoxy composite is likely to be a bunch stronger than a paper-PVA composite. And if it's not soaked in, but instead just a ring of material added to the inside surface of the tube, a ring of epoxy should give better zipper protection than a ring of PVA. Thus my statement about the glue itself being structural.
 
I may not have been clear. Certainly what you've said there is correct.

You were referring, I think, to applying epoxy to the top end of a body tube in order to strengthen it, much as you've already done with CA, not to bond anything else to it. When you soak any sort of glue - CA, PVA, or epoxy - into paper, you're making a composite. While attaching two pieces of balsa or cardboard with epoxy makes an assembly that's no stronger than attaching them with PVA, I'm suggesting that paper-epoxy composite is likely to be a bunch stronger than a paper-PVA composite. And if it's not soaked in, but instead just a ring of material added to the inside surface of the tube, a ring of epoxy should give better zipper protection than a ring of PVA. Thus my statement about the glue itself being structural.
I was going to put epoxy in to tighten the nosecone fit, it was pretty loose and I was worried about that. I figured using some Epoxy and sanding that down until the NC fits better would require the use of less tape. But it didn't need much tape after all so I left it go. But I see what you're saying...Thank you..
 
Gunpowder was invented in China around 1000 AD, well after the so-called "Dark Ages" ended, assuming you use the typical definition of the dark ages as being from the fall of the Western Roman Empire to the breakup of the Carolingian Empire.

Edit: Quoted post originally stated that the Chinese had gunpowder during the dark ages.
Did you go to school for history or something you always seem to know a lot about it?
 
Sanded on the Nike Smoke for about an hour and a half, maybe more. Got the marble stuff off the nose and fins. The black airframe I'll just leave for the white sealer to cover. Before I lay down sealer, though, I need to repair some pinholes and chips.
SandedSmoke.jpeg

After sanding the 'Smoke, I used polishing compound and a yellow pad to buff the Goblin. I'm tired, so I think I'll chill for the rest of the evening and fill pinholes and chips tomorrow. Aeropoxy laminating resin and fumed silica for that task.
 
Just got started on my second HP kit, following my L1 cert last weekend - a Dragon Rocketry Nike Smoke. First time working with printed parts. So far so good.

The Kevlar harness and 29mm adaptor were extras, but not expensive.

This is the first kit I've done where I didn't have an existing OpenRocket file to start from. I enjoyed measuring and weighing the parts then building it out in OpenRocket.


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Question: I would really like to airfoil the fins more-or-less like the real thing, but I'm not quite sure how to pull it off - any recommendations?

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Question: I would really like to airfoil the fins more-or-less like the real thing, but I'm not quite sure how to pull it off - any recommendations?

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Looks like a nice kit!

For the airfoils, I'd mark out the ends of the beveled sections, then put a piece of blue tape down on the flat side of the bevel to keep the mark. Then carefully hit the fins with a sanding block and maybe 120-grit sandpaper until it looks good. If the plywood has 5 or more plies, the layer lines are helpful for seeing how far you've sanded.
 
Looks like a nice kit!

For the airfoils, I'd mark out the ends of the beveled sections, then put a piece of blue tape down on the flat side of the bevel to keep the mark. Then carefully hit the fins with a sanding block and maybe 120-grit sandpaper until it looks good. If the plywood has 5 or more plies, the layer lines are helpful for seeing how far you've sanded.
Alternately, try building up, instead of sanding down. Balsa for the bevels and center pieces, with a layer of light glass on top. Easier to sand the balsa than plywood, and you can approach scale a bit closer, as most plywood fins aren't quite as thick (scale-wise) as real Nike fins would be.
 
I messed around with my 10 year old(of course the motor tube was assembled so I had to cut the fins/tube slots, etc..) Partizon. I'm turning that into a Cherokee-H, and found my L2 rocket. I've been dying to get one from LOC. I'm going with the Magnum 3E, 91", and a single 75mm tube. I really do like that the best.
 

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Finished the Sublime Repair with new fillets. Perfect? No. But nice? Yes. Proline epoxy. 100:16 ratio. Stuff has to be 15 years old. And still works like a charm.

I used simple wood glue before it the fillets to seal the body tube fins. There was a little bit of a gap. I did not want the proline to leak down that gap. Worked great. Very happy.

She'll fly soon...
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I put the final coat of paint on my Eagle Rocket, which is an Apogee Peregrine. I am going to put a picture of my father and his High School symbol where he proudly taught for 25 years. I am also going to put family names, and inspirational words. I will post pictures of the final product, maybe tomorrow.

It will fly on November 19th at a Buffalo ranch in the Colorado Rocky Mountains for my Level 2 Certification, weather permitting. I hope to have many family and friends a few former students of his there to celebrate his life that ended last May 2nd.

The rocket was mostly built a year before, but in the last few weeks, I decided to do this as a memorial, as I did my Level 1, using the three fins to memorialize my sister, brother and mother. The flight was perfect as could be and I got a lot of love form my fellow flyers for giving it meaning beyond myself.

I am tempted to use a more powerful engine than I need to go over a mile high with duel deployment, using three Egg Timer flight computers, one for tracking, one for dual deployment and a backup for deployment to up my chances of success. I know low and simple single deploy is what I have been wisely advised to due, maybe at 4200't and a long walk to find with only the larger shoot.

However, I am pretty confident that I can go bigger, having the rocket fully prepared and tested a week before the launch, but not armed until on the launch pad. My father always inspired me to go higher and be the best man I can be, so that is what is compelling to due more than required. He was there and totally supported my Level 1 flight with Zephyr from Apogee. The Peregrine is a larger upgraded version with very similar design and much more sexy fins and decals. I did not use the decals on my Level 1, a simple blue rocket, black nose cone, green fin for my Irish mother, gold and black the colors of my bother's college mascot and rose, for my sister with written dedications on each.

I finished the build and today, when I did the final coat of red paint, after drying added the decals. I just finished moments ago. Tomorrow I will add my father's high school logo and his picture.
 

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Last night I worked on my zephyr jr and documented the process here on TRF

I started with reinforcing all tube ends (Body Tube, Motor Tube, and Launch Lug) with super glue.

Then, I sanded and fitted the fin pieces together as this kit has three pieces per kit. Using titebond original I then glued the pieces together

IMO a productive night for my build. Now, to balance my outside of work life and SQUEEZE in some time for some rocket building is the real challenge
 
Finished the design for my first body tube wrap cardstock rocket.

Woke up feeling horrible a few nights ago, knew I'd be sitting up for awhile in the middle of the night. Fired up AutoCAD and started redrawing the decal from JimZ, because that was something that wouldn't matter if I got something wrong the first time around while I was tired and uncomfortable. Kind of a learning curve on how to use the tools in AC to perform these specific tasks, but I think I have most of the bugs worked out and should be a lot more efficient going forward. It's been a fun and interesting exercise so far to go through all the actual steps of designing/downscaling and making it real, and figuring out the ins and outs of the procedure and the tools. Will do a build thread when I build the rocket.

Thanks to @hcmbanjo for the inspiration and quite literally showing me the way.

Did some more polishing on the print layout last night.

Posted my question about cardstock weight over on YORF and got a link to an automatic-idiocy-generated web site that completely failed to answer the question. I'm really hoping someone who builds a bunch of cardstock rockets can go look at their package of "110 lb" cardstock and see what the gsm number is.

https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/cardstock-weight-systems.182963/
 
Did some more polishing on the print layout last night.

Posted my question about cardstock weight over on YORF and got a link to an automatic-idiocy-generated web site that completely failed to answer the question. I'm really hoping someone who builds a bunch of cardstock rockets can go look at their package of "110 lb" cardstock and see what the gsm number is.

https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/cardstock-weight-systems.182963/
Seems to vary, not just with the brand but within a brand. I have two packs of Wausau 67 lb cardstock that say 145 g/m^2. The 65 lb stuff from Neenah says 175 g/m^2, and it definitely feels heavier. And the 90 lb from Neenah is 163 g/m^2 (however, it's 11x17 not 8.5x11). A good reason to go with the actual weight rather than the pound "basis" weight.
 
I'm really hoping someone who builds a bunch of cardstock rockets can go look at their package of "110 lb" cardstock and see what the gsm number is.
As you know, I don't build a lot with cardstock yet, but I've done a little work with it. The 110 lb. stuff I have from Neenah is 199gsm.
 
Basis weight is a damn mess. Converting it to any sensible unit, such as gsm, depends on what type of paper your stuff has been categorized as. The following summarizes information from cardstock-warehouse.com.
  • There are at least eight types.
  • This web page implies that five of these are commonly used: Book, Text, Index, Bristol, and Cover.
  • Basis weight is the weight of 500 sheets of "standard size" paper, not paper cut to the packaged size. BUT...
  • Each type has its own standard size sheet. :facepalm:
  • "The heavier paper grade commonly referred to as 'cardstock' is technically known as 'cover'."
    • Does every company packaging "cardstock" actually obey that? :dontknow:
Because I'm so very nerdy, here's a table of conversion factors for the five types:
Type​
Standard Sheet​
Area for 500 sheets (in²)
Area
(m², rounded)​
Conversion Factor (gsm/lb, rounded)
Width (in)​
Length (in)​
Book or Text2538475,000306.451.480
Index25.530.5388,875250.891.808
Bristol22.528.5320,625206.852.193
Cover2026260,000167.742.704
If there's any way to accomplish table formatting in this editor, I haven't found it. Open the Excel file; it looks a lot better and has a calculator.

Based on the figures that Prfesser and bad_idea gave, it appeass that Wausau uses the Bristol standard sheet, while Neeha uses the Cover standard for the 65 lb and Index for the 90 and 110 lb.
 

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Basis weight is a damn mess. Converting it to any sensible unit, such as gsm, depends on what type of paper your stuff has been categorized as. The following summarizes information from cardstock-warehouse.com.
  • There are at least eight types.
  • This web page implies that five of these are commonly used: Book, Text, Index, Bristol, and Cover.
  • Basis weight is the weight of 500 sheets of "standard size" paper, not paper cut to the packaged size. BUT...
  • Each type has its own standard size sheet. :facepalm:
  • "The heavier paper grade commonly referred to as 'cardstock' is technically known as 'cover'."
    • Does every company packaging "cardstock" actually obey that? :dontknow:
Because I'm so very nerdy, here's a table of conversion factors for the five types:
Type​
Standard Sheet​
Area for 500 sheets (in²)
Area
(m², rounded)​
Conversion Factor (gsm/lb, rounded)
Width (in)​
Length (in)​
Book or Text2538475,000306.451.480
Index25.530.5388,875250.891.808
Bristol22.528.5320,625206.852.193
Cover2026260,000167.742.704
If there's any way to accomplish table formatting in this editor, I haven't found it. Open the Excel file; it looks a lot better and has a calculator.

Based on the figures that Prfesser and bad_idea gave, it appeass that Wausau uses the Bristol standard sheet, while Neeha uses the Cover standard for the 65 lb and Index for the 90 and 110 lb.

Guess I shoulda posted this back here:

https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/cardstock-weight-systems.182963/#post-2509978
 
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