Lakeroadster's "Level One"

[BABAR]

The normal standard is the 80/20 1010 section or any of equivalent knockoffs. You can get them from McMaster or your choice of online retailers. Definitely compare and contrast on shipping--that'll really bite you if you have to pay full rate. A 6-foot to 8-foot section is fine for MPR to L1 HPR.

Be careful of knockoffs, my experience with mini button rails was that not all knock offs actually fit.

 

[lakeroadster]

My opinion matches @boatgeek pretty much. I think mounting the rear button/guide as low as practical is best and I personally mount the upper either close to the CG, or if it is a really long rocket, maybe a bit behind.

Given your rocket's length, I would put the bottom button as close to the back as possible and I would put the forward button near the CG, but still on the rocket body. I've never mounted one to the nosecone. I know CG drifts depending on motor selection, which might be why some people prefer using CP, not sure.

The fact that you're doing rear ejection might make all of the conventional methods completely moot, though. I assume you want the back-side of the inside of the rocket smooth so there is zero chance for snags. A rail button screw and nut might be bad in that case. . .I know some people use surface (conformal?) rail guides, but I have not, just buttons.

Sandy.

4" I.D. 3" O.D. Inner Tube. I'll add some threaded inserts that I can later use to attach the rail buttons to if needed.

 

[Daddyisabar]

Tube launch with pop out fins. To Hades with keeping it simple, those guys are way too conservative. Level One for fun! Fall off that wagon going on the straight and narrow path! Level one with a spool, let the oddrocs fly! High power boost gliders for level one. Silly airplane rockets!

 

[lakeroadster]

Nose Cone Wood Turning

I ended up using Pinyon Pine instead of Redwood since my redwood stock is 3-1/2" x 3-1/2".

The piece of wood I used is from a tree we cut down 6 years ago. In order to get all the bark off the piece I changed the design a bit to have a reducer just above the 4" body tube.

 

[lakeroadster]

Unclamped the upper 1-inch board, and clamped of the wire screen so the Basswood plywood so it can dry... and cut the 4", 3" and the T-52H tubes. Also updated the drawing set to reflect the new nose cone geometry.

​

 

[lakeroadster]

What would be a good motor retainer to use on the spool? Would an Aero Pack 29MM Retainer - L be sufficient?

The spool hasn't been built yet, so if I need to move the back centering ring (CR) it's not a problem.

Keep in mind the ejection forces won't be moving a lot of weight. Just the empty motor casing, the spool and the 28" parachute.

Or maybe I'll just make my own, like the Madcow type, I can likely make one for less than $5.

Thanks.

 

[jqavins]

Today I saw a young man with his L1 cert rocket, for which he'd made a Mad Cow-like retainer out of a steel can top. (I should have taken a picture.) He used the whole bottom of the can, so the crimped edge gives it strength and stiffness. There's a small hole for the exhaust plume and two smaller ones for screws. The RSO and I were both shaking our heads saying "That's brilliant!

 

[boatgeek]

What would be a good motor retainer to use on the spool? Would an Aero Pack 29MM Retainer - L be sufficient?

The spool hasn't been built yet, so if I need to move the back centering ring (CR) it's not a problem.

Keep in mind the ejection forces won't be moving a lot of weight. Just the empty motor casing, the spool and the 28" parachute.

Or maybe I'll just make my own, like the Madcow type, I can likely make one for less than $5.

Thanks.


View attachment 545165View attachment 545166
View attachment 545171

There's no need to go to the full Aeropack retainer for 29mm motors. The basic Estes plastic one (or a Madcow type) are fine. The Estes ones are $10 for 2, so they might be competitive with the Madcow ones. Probably not competitive with a tin can lid, though!

 

[lakeroadster]

There's no need to go to the full Aeropack retainer for 29mm motors. The basic Estes plastic one (or a Madcow type) are fine. The Estes ones are $10 for 2, so they might be competitive with the Madcow ones. Probably not competitive with a tin can lid, though!

$10 for two... now that sounds more like it. This HP stuff is spendy.

 

[boatgeek]

$10 for two... now that sounds more like it. This HP stuff is spendy.

The good stuff is totally worth it at larger motor diameters, like 54mm and 75mm. Down this low, the cheap stuff works great.

Of course, the two bolts and two mirror clips are also a popular option.

 

[jqavins]

For my own L1, I used a wood screw into the aft CR and a fender washer. I suppose double that might have been a good idea, but the single one did the job.

 

[lakeroadster]

I ordered a motor retainer from Apogee. I also stepped up and bought a high strength 24" Parachute, in red/white colors.

Since these both can be used on multiple rockets, spreading the price over multiple builds doesn't seem so painful.

​

 

[BABAR]

Nose Cone Wood Turning

I ended up using Pinyon Pine instead of Redwood since my redwood stock is 3-1/2" x 3-1/2".

The piece of wood I used is from a tree we cut down 6 years ago. In order to get all the bark off the piece I changed the design a bit to have a reducer just above the 4" body tube.

View attachment 544995View attachment 544996View attachment 544997View attachment 544998View attachment 544999View attachment 545000View attachment 545001View attachment 545002

View attachment 545003View attachment 545004

Can we get some paint or BVDs or Underoos or SOMETHING on that nose cone soon? In that shape in that color, it's just kind of wrong to me. I know, I have issues. I had the same problem with the Blue Origin builder's kit.

 

[lakeroadster]

View attachment 545480Can we get some paint or BVDs or Underoos or SOMETHING on that nose cone soon? In that shape in that color, it's just kind of wrong to me. I know, I have issues. I had the same problem with the Blue Origin builder's kit.

Form Follows Function.

 

[jqavins]

I had the same problem with the Blue Origin builder's kit.

Everyone has that problem with New Shepherd (except people who like it that way).

 

[lakeroadster]

Here's how I cut fins to size... eazy peazy.

 

[KenECoyote]

This resembles documentation for an L3 build!
Fantastic work as usual!

 

[lakeroadster]

I picked up a Lag Screw Eye at Tractor Supply today. It should be just the ticket for attaching the braided Kevlar to. Also received the motor retainer and the 24 Inch Fruity Chute that I bought from Apogee Components.. I think I've got everything answered that I needed in regard to hardware to move forward with the build.

 

[Steve Shannon]

I picked up a Lag Screw Eye at Tractor Supply today. It should be just the ticket for attaching the braided Kevlar to. Also received the motor retainer and the 24 Inch Fruity Chute that I bought from Apogee Components.. I think I've got everything answered that I needed in regard to hardware to move forward with the build.


View attachment 545558View attachment 545561View attachment 545559View attachment 545560

If I may make a suggestion, have the eye on that eyescrew welded shut. A tack weld where it curves back on itself is sufficient. You have a heavy nosecone and the forces exerted at deployment can be surprising.

 

[lakeroadster]

If I may make a suggestion, have the eye on that eyescrew welded shut. A tack weld where it curves back on itself is sufficient. You have a heavy nosecone and the forces exerted at deployment can be surprising.

I can do that myself... thanks for the suggestion.

 

[cwbullet]

work of art.

 

[lakeroadster]

Centering Rings

I removed the clamps from the 1/8" structurally papered basswood and then cut the centering rings using a fly cutter and a scroll saw.

Since fly cutters seem to be a tool of contention here on TRF I did a video to show just how simple and safe it truly is to use them. The key is to make sure the part being cut is securely attached to the tool work surface ,and to use a slow cutting speed. My drill press minimum speed is 260 RPM, and that's the RPM shown in the video.

It took less than an hour to get the everything set-up, cut the rings, sand the rings, and clean up the shop. The actual fly cutting took less than a minute.

​

​

 

[Hobie1dog]

thanks for the photos, again

 

[lakeroadster]

Through The Wall Fin Slots

 

[DigBaddy]

This is great! Thanks again for the reminder on the fly cutter. I have one, but only just got a drill press and need to give it a proper go now.

 

[lakeroadster]

Gluing Ring and 3" Tube Centering Ring

I'm installing a "Gluing Ring" at the forward end of the TTW fin tabs. Think of it as a dam to keep the internal glue fillets in place while drying. It's merely a ring made from cereal box cardboard.

This is the 1st time I've used the "NT Cutter" Circle Cutter (I think @kuririn suggested the cutter on a different thread here on TRF). The cutter sure made cutting out the gluing ring quick and easy. And for $7... it's cost effective.

​

 

[lakeroadster]

Fireproofing.. kind-a-sort-of

 

[lakeroadster]

If I may make a suggestion, have the eye on that eyescrew welded shut. A tack weld where it curves back on itself is sufficient. You have a heavy nosecone and the forces exerted at deployment can be surprising.

Done....



and installed.... time to make all these parts look like a rocket.

 

[Daddyisabar]

Use only certified German steel made of pure Sweedish ore. Preferably salvaged from the front glacis plate of an early production Panzerkamphwagen VI !

 

[lakeroadster]

Use only certified German steel made of pure Sweedish ore. Preferably salvaged from the front glacis plate of an early production Panzerkamphwagen VI !

Swedish? Rumor has it they have a good bikini team.

But when it comes to rockets and parts made related thereto, I choose American made.