Lakeroadster's "Level One"

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This rocket is in paint jail... basically waiting for a day when the temperatures outside are warm enough to apply primer. I contemplated adding some corrugated panels to the rocket to mimic the Saturn V corrugations... but I mocked it up and quite frankly, I hated the look. I consulted with Mr. Less I.S. Moore and he agrees, he hated the look also.

I'm still a bit apprehensive about the RMS motor I plan to use for the L1 certification flight. Wanting to learn more about these I did some searching and found this excellent video. Gary Rosenfield shows in the video all the parts and even goes through assembly errors, complete with photo's. Very helpful to a fella wading into uncharted waters.


Although we hear about motor failures, statistically they’re quite rare. Just check ThrustCurve to see what problems others may have had with the motor you intend to fly and follow the instructions when building the motor. Part of the process is to have your certification witness observe you building the motor. That’s to help you.
Although, having seen the care you take when building rockets for several years now, I highly doubt you’ll have problems.
 
Panelizing / Greebling: Creating Faux Corrugated Panel, Post #1 of 2

I had some crow for lunch today and started putting a faux corrugation panel on the rocket, a tip of the hat to the Saturn V.

And man, this was tedious!

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Is that a quarter inch lug? Might need something heftier, say half inch. ROD WHIP IST VERBOTTEN! :)
3/8"

My launch horse utilizes a 5/16" dia x 72" long galvanized steel launch rod that yields 66" of usable length.

If we look at the geometry of this rocket, it is relatively short, and only has one launch lug. This helps to minimize the side force moments that create rod whip when the motor ignites. Silicone lubricant on the launch rod also helps. Yadda, Yadda, Blah, Blah, Blah.... If A Problem Comes Along, You Must Whip It.

But I did install a plywood internal block in the event I need to install rail guides. One attaches to the block, the other screws into the redwood nose cone lower shoulder.

015 Rod Whip.JPG 007.JPG
 
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3/8"

My launch horse utilizes a 5/16" dia x 72" long galvanized steel launch rod that yields 66" of usable length.

If we look at the geometry of this rocket, it is relatively short, and only has one launch lug. This helps to minimize the side force moments that create rod whip when the motor ignites. Silicone lubricant on the launch rod also helps. Yadda, Yadda, Blah, Blah, Blah.... If A Problem Comes Along, You Must Whip It.

But I did install a plywood internal block in the event I need to install rail guides. One attaches to the block, the other screws into the redwood nose cone lower shoulder.

I would recommend adding buttons or rail guides. Some clubs discourage using rods when perfectly good rails are provided.
 
I would recommend adding buttons or rail guides. Some clubs discourage using rods when perfectly good rails are provided.

It's an easy add on, I made a CAD model to make sure the rail would clear the conical fairings. The buttons will need some nylon stand-off's.

I may buy a rail for my own launch horse in the spring. Apogee sells them in Colorado Springs, I can slide down the hill and pick one up. Rails seem to be cost prohibitive to ship based on my research. I'm frugal though and will probably launch this rocket on a G74 using my existing 5/16" galvanized steel launch rod.

I created a cad model of the t-slot. Since this is a rear eject, I'm going to plan on using the 5/16" launch rod, launch it with the G motor, and evaluate if that will be sufficient for the HP motor. I can always add rail buttons at a later date.

What's the hive opinion in regard to placement of rail buttons?

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Level One Launch Dwg Sht 1 of 1.JPG
 
Broke this Apollo / Mercury bashed rocket out of paint jail since temp's are right around 50 F and sprayed on some Rustoleum Automotive Sandable / Filler Gray Primer.

The 4" tube has stubble and looks a bit like it needs a shave, but all should be fine once I sand off the fuzz and apply another coat of primer.

Visually it looks much better with just the Mercury Capsule portion in red.... as was the plan.

As a side note: The Mercury Capsule will get considerably darker once I apply spar urethane to it.

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2022-12-28 Level One Open Rocket Photo Studio.jpg
 
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It's an easy add on, I made a CAD model to make sure the rail would clear the conical fairings. The buttons will need some nylon stand-off's.

I may buy a rail for my own launch horse in the spring. Apogee sells them in Colorado Springs, I can slide down the hill and pick one up. Rails seem to be cost prohibitive to ship based on my research. I'm frugal though and will probably launch this rocket on a G74 using my existing 5/16" galvanized steel launch rod.



View attachment 553125
A local Grangers might have a rail in stock and save you money.
 
It's an easy add on, I made a CAD model to make sure the rail would clear the conical fairings. The buttons will need some nylon stand-off's.

I may buy a rail for my own launch horse in the spring. Apogee sells them in Colorado Springs, I can slide down the hill and pick one up. Rails seem to be cost prohibitive to ship based on my research. I'm frugal though and will probably launch this rocket on a G74 using my existing 5/16" galvanized steel launch rod.



View attachment 553125
If it fits do it! Rails and hipsters rule! Old dudes and rods drule!

The former club president has an inherented a collection of old 1990's HiPo rockets with God awful 1/2" lugs. The horror! Get into the 21st century dude. The sheer fear of pulling out those dirty/rusty 1/2" rods and actually using them is palpable.

Driving down to Apogee is so cool, especially when all the flat landers have to drive Up to Apogee. :)

P.S. Still enough uncool old dudes at the club that a big lug and rod are fine. ;)
 
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I may buy a rail for my own launch horse in the spring. Apogee sells them in Colorado Springs, I can slide down the hill and pick one up. Rails seem to be cost prohibitive to ship based on my research.
A local Grangers might have a rail in stock and save you money.
Edit: I may have been incorrect in what I posted here at first, which was that Grainger offered free pickup even if not in stock. That was once the case, but my test shopping cart mentions "This item requires special shipping, additional charges may apply."

That said, if I were in the area, I'd probably drive down to Apogee just to check the place out. I don't mind paying the "Apogee tax" every now and then; they do a lot for the hobby and in some categories sell things no one else does.
 
Edit: I may have been incorrect in what I posted here at first, which was that Grainger offered free pickup even if not in stock. That was once the case, but my test shopping cart mentions "This item requires special shipping, additional charges may apply."

That said, if I were in the area, I'd probably drive down to Apogee just to check the place out. I don't mind paying the "Apogee tax" every now and then; they do a lot for the hobby and in some categories sell things no one else does.
Once in the Danger Zone of the Apogee showroom your wallet will be emptied by the "Apogee Tax!" Resistance is futile. ;)
 
Edit: I may have been incorrect in what I posted here at first, which was that Grainger offered free pickup even if not in stock. That was once the case, but my test shopping cart mentions "This item requires special shipping, additional charges may apply."

That said, if I were in the area, I'd probably drive down to Apogee just to check the place out. I don't mind paying the "Apogee tax" every now and then; they do a lot for the hobby and in some categories sell things no one else does.
I've bought components from them many times... and have emailed TVM with questions and he always responds. Apogee Components is such a great place to do business with.

But for an extruded aluminum rail... as Tony Tennille advised us "You better shop around".

A local Grangers might have a rail in stock and save you money.
Thanks Steve..

Apogee Components: Model: 07697
$88.95 Pickup At Store​
$191.70 Ship to Home​

Grainger: Item # 2RCP9
$50.29 Pickup At Store​
$203.54 Ship to home​

LAUNCH RAIL (STANDARD 1010)
  • Length = 96 inches (2.43m)
    Cross Section = 1" X 1" (1010 size)
    Material = Extruded Aluminum
    Called a 1010 Extrusion by the industry.
 
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I've bought components from them many times... and have emailed TVM with questions and he always responds. Apogee Components is such a great place to do business with.

But for an extruded aluminum rail... as Tony Tennille advised us "You better shop around".
If you come to the Club Cantina there are lots of old dudes that have quantities of it stashed away. They will give you some for free...if they like you. If they don't like you just shoot first before an arm gets cut off. ;)
 
Edit: I may have been incorrect in what I posted here at first, which was that Grainger offered free pickup even if not in stock. That was once the case, but my test shopping cart mentions "This item requires special shipping, additional charges may apply."
All too many web sites are stupid when it comes to shipping costs. A phone call might be worthwhile.
I don't mind paying the "Apogee tax" every now and then; they do a lot for the hobby and in some categories sell things no one else does.
That's just how I feel about it too.
 
I've bought components from them many times... and have emailed TVM with questions and he always responds. Apogee Components is such a great place to do business with.

But for an extruded aluminum rail... as Tony Tennille advised us "You better shop around".
Be careful of generic knock offs, at least for mini buttons. I got burned on one with slots too big for buttons.
 
When I saw your first post, I was a little surprised and thought someone must have hacked your account. The rocket was plain by your standards. Now that I see this version, I know its really you!!! Love the changes! Any thoughts about a corrugated wrap or similar little features to be added during the build?

Look forward to seeing it!

Sandy.

Yep, I understand your confusion. :haironfire:

I spent some time making wraps and applying them to the model to give it more of a NASA look. I like it, but personally... it's been done to death.

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Upon further review... I spent some time today and revisited the NASA paint scheme.

The upper section is Mercury Redstone... and the lower section is Saturn V

It'll be a pain in the butt to mask and paint, but I'm kind of digging it. Looks like @Sandy H. is a fortune teller.

I've got some decals left over from my Mercury Capsule LES build. Perhaps I can use them on the capsule.

2022-12-28 Level One Open Rocket Photo Studio Apollo Mercury Hack.jpg


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Sanding Primer Day 01

I used 320 grit sand paper to sand the primer. It did a good job of removing most of the cardboard stubble that was discussed in post #166.

Since the paint scheme is Mercury Redstone for the upper section, and Saturn V for the lower section, kind of a junkyard build, I think I'm going to try to do a distressed patina paint job and use the small bumps and rough surfaces to add to that technique.

I used a similar technique on my '65 Chevy pickup about 10 years ago. Basically you leave the primer rough, then apply the colored top coat. Then you sand the surface. End result is you have sanded through the paint to the primer on the high spots, and the finish color remains in the low spots.

Should make for an interesting end result.

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The other cool thing about rear eject spool motor designs is you can do things like this: A (7) Motor version that simply attaches to the existing spool.

L1 cert required to fly on 7X D12's, but not using the 6X C6's and a single D12

The 18MM would be slow off the pad, with a lot of smoke. Spectacular! Best launched using a rail.


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Best off a rail? You have listening to the hipsters. If a couple that don't light and you get some binding tourqe, you may rethink and get in touch with your inner old dude.

I like me rod and me WD 40! Get off my lawn! Me pants and socks 'er falling down. I forget my false teeth. :)
 
Best off a rail? You have listening to the hipsters. If a couple that don't light and you get some binding tourqe, you may rethink and get in touch with your inner old dude.

I like me rod and me WD 40! Get off my lawn! Me pants and socks 'er falling down. I forget my false teeth. :)

The rail is 24" longer than the 5/16" rod I use... and that 24" provides just enough length to allow the rocket to exceed that magical 30 mph threshold.

Spare the rod rail, spoil the launch. 🤪
 
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