Lakeroadster's "Level One"

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The rail is 24" longer than the 5/16" rod I use... and that 24" provides just enough length to allow the rocket to exceed that magical 30 mph threshold.

Spare the rod, spoil the launch. 🤪
Bigger lug, thicker rod! MORE TAKE OFF POWER! Tim the tool man Taylor rules! Rough, Rough, Rough, Rough!

The magical take off threshold...Science or Necromancy? The mystery of my model rocket's flight performance is beguiling.
 
The Jolly Logic Altimeter Two arrived yesterday.

After creating a CAD model of it I studied the rocket to find the best location to stow the altimeter in the LEVEL ONE rocket.

Sure I could just lash it to the spool... but since it's a valuable piece of equipment I decided to make an altimeter bay at the rear of the rocket. I figure this will be the safest and most secure location.

The 1/4" diameter hole in the altimeter bay bubble as well as the spaces at the rear cover strap should ensure good air flow for the altimeter.

Thoughts?


Altimeter Two.JPGAltimeter Bay Mod Dwg Sht 1 of 2 Rev 00 - Level One.pdf.jpgAltimeter Bay Mod Dwg Sht 2 of 2 Rev 00 - Level One.pdf.jpg
 
CAD, OR, you're a rocket modeling ICON.
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Are the Sharpie and rubber band there to keep the middle of the cardboard arc in position? If that's it, the obviously you found that you needed it. That seems really strange to me. I mean, it is what it is, if you needed it you needed it, but that goes totally against my physical and mathematical intuition. My problem, not yours.
 
I've bought components from them many times... and have emailed TVM with questions and he always responds. Apogee Components is such a great place to do business with.

But for an extruded aluminum rail... as Tony Tennille advised us "You better shop around".


Thanks Steve..

Apogee Components: Model: 07697
$88.95 Pickup At Store​
$191.70 Ship to Home​

Grainger: Item # 2RCP9
$50.29 Pickup At Store​
$203.54 Ship to home​

LAUNCH RAIL (STANDARD 1010)
  • Length = 96 inches (2.43m)
    Cross Section = 1" X 1" (1010 size)
    Material = Extruded Aluminum
    Called a 1010 Extrusion by the industry.
You can buy direct from the manufacturer, 80/20, from their website or Amazon store. You can also buy two 4' pieces and hardware to bolt them together.
 
Are the Sharpie and rubber band there to keep the middle of the cardboard arc in position? If that's it, the obviously you found that you needed it. That seems really strange to me. I mean, it is what it is, if you needed it you needed it, but that goes totally against my physical and mathematical intuition. My problem, not yours.

They are merely there to ensure the new piece of body tube stays in contact with the existing body tube while the Gorilla Wood Glue cures.

 
Hmm. I would have thought the binder clips would do that themselves. Oh well, whatever works.
"Clamp all glued joints. Pressure is necessary to form a tight, gap-free bond, and to help force glue into the wood fibers. Clamping also prevents movement while the glue is hardening."
 
Yes, of course. I'm confused, which undoubtedly means I've misinterpreted something in the picture. I'm certainly not criticizing, just trying to understand something that's, admittedly, not really important. I just hate the "I don't get it" feeling.
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Wrapping up the altimeter bay. Still need to make the cover strap but it's been stupid cold here, so I'm avoiding projects out in the barn.

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My thinking is that the binder clips alone would provide clamping force to only that area. The rubber bands and sharpie clamps the whole piece while the binder clips prevent unwanted ,um, flattening(?) at that point.
Nicely done!
 
Sanding the CWF and Applying the Rustoleum Red Oxide primer.

FYI: Spray painted outside... 41 degrees F but it was sunny, the rocket was inside the house before painting and I put the can of paint in hot water for ten minutes before spraying the rocket.

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Took advantage of the 51F temp and sprayed on the light coat of Rustoleum flat white paint. With any luck I can mask the rocket and then spray the thin coat of flat black in a couple days.

FWIW:
I've found that using flat paint seems to allow the paint to dry quicker, with the added benefit of the flat paint doesn't stink as bad as the gloss. If you compare the MSDS sheets, there are significant differences in the chemicals used, gloss vs flat for the same color.​
And for a paint scheme that has multiple different colors, a flat paint isn't as smooth, and thus the second color coat has a surface with more bite to adhere to.​


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Roll Pattern Day One: The Black Stripes... (I still need to mask and paint the lower part of the Mercury Redstone stripes.)

After masking I sprayed
  • a light coat of flat white, waited 10 minutes,
  • flat black, waited 10 minutes,
  • red oxide (rusty metal), waited 10 minutes,
  • flat black.
I want to be able to sand through the black to give the paint a weathered look, and show some of the red oxide. But I don't want any white to show through the black... thus all the different coats.

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Roll Pattern Day Two

Nice sunny 50 F. day here, so I finished the Mercury Redstone Roll Pattern.

Also did a test area of the patina look by 320 grit sanding some of the bumps on the 4" tube. Rusty and crusty... should be a unique look.

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With some reservation... but after some counsel from some trusted folks here, I made the decision to paint the Mercury Capsule flat black.


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I spent some time 320 grit sanding the rocket to give it the weathered look... it still needs some more sanding, and I want to do some hand painting to add some more detail.

Thinking about adding some re-entry heat streaks to the Mercury capsule, so it looks like it too was bought from a salvage yard, it looks too pristine as is.

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