I epoxied my airframe tube using ADtech 820 using the 824 slow hardener. Then wrapped it with 0.003” Duralar sprayed with smooth-on universal mold release. After it was wrapped I used a thick piece of card stock to work out all the bubbles starting from the center working towards the outer edges.
After about 8-10 hours I peeled the Duralar off. The mold release made it much easier to remove. My first attempt using this epoxy and Duralar on another tube was much more difficult to remove so I highly recommend the mold release!
The finish came out perfect! This method always leaves a fine ridge along the tube where the plastic was first applied.
I originally put a coat of medium CA over the surface of my nose cone to fill in the layer lines from printing. I sanded it smooth and saw it still had low spots so I decided to use some of my excess epoxy from the airframe tube and coat the nose cone.
I’m overall happy with the result. It needs some sanding to blend the surface a little more smooth. I’m not sure if the CA had some sort of reaction with the nose plastic or if the CA reacted with the epoxy but one of those reactions caused the color to get dark in places. It still feel structurally sound so I’m not worried about it. It will be painted anyway. The spots that didn’t turn black are where I had used epoxy to adhere the printed parts together before the CA coat.
I got the airframe tube trimmed and slotted getting ready for final assembly. I have to cut a forward centering ring for the motor tube assembly and install an eye bolt and shock cord still.
It’s coming along nicely!