AC, I can't tell you how excited I am to see your progress! She's looking real good! Very clean build! What color scheme are you going with? I'm sticking to the facecard photo from the package. I've gotten the base white and the green fin tips done. Now I need the black nose cone and inner part of the fins. Waiting between coats is a true test of patience! LOL
Keep up the good work and thanks for the updates. I look forward to seeing more! My Part 7 should be up in a week or so, or whenever I get the painting done.............
Arpak, that is a sweet looking Zephyr! I am anxious to release my next video, but waiting for paint to dry is a true test of patience! Lol. I love the blue trim! If I ever build another one, I may customize the paint like you did with my own design, but I enjoy duplicating the face cards on all my builds for my first attempts.
Can you tell us more about that camera mount? Looks sleek!
Painting and decals are done. Here’s the next video!
Is there any reason why the motor tube is the length it is?
My thinking is why couldn’t it be cut just above the forward centering ring so that I can reach the eyebolt to replace the recovery harness any time I need to
My thinking is why couldn’t it be cut just above the forward centering ring so that I can reach the eyebolt to replace the recovery harness any time I need to
I would do the same thing as long as you can reach it. Not sure deep the forward center ring is?See my sig.
Here's how I handled that "replace" problem. It's braided kevlar. The only reason it's braided is because all I have is 100# thread and I wanted it stronger. My idea was that if I ever need to replace shock cord deep down inside the tube, it's probably going to be easier to undo that quicklink than anything else I can think of. Probably overthinking it.
Magic words are "if I ever need" ... not seeing this as even a possibility now.
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that's the thing about the zephyr. the forward ring is deep inside, impossible to reach unless you have friendly offspring with long skinny arms to do it for you. It's about 3' down inside a 4" tube. I can't reach it bare handed. My idea was that it would be easier to unscrew the quick link than attempt to tie/untie any knot on the eyebolt. my thoughts were I could maybe get a sink wrench down in there to do it.I would do the same thing as long as you can reach it. Not sure deep the forward center ring is?
What I would do is a couple things. Maybe use a thicker piece of Kevlar and get a Nomex shock cord protector to cover it. Just to add another measure of protection. Another option is installing a baffle system. I mean if you can barely reach the center ring it makes it difficult to even try to unscrew it. Sink would work probably, but how long would it take to do it? One thing nice is you do have options.that's the thing about the zephyr. the forward ring is deep inside, impossible to reach unless you have friendly offspring with long skinny arms to do it for you. It's about 3' down inside a 4" tube. I can't reach it bare handed. My idea was that it would be easier to unscrew the quick link than attempt to tie/untie any knot on the eyebolt. my thoughts were I could maybe get a sink wrench down in there to do it.
In my case, I hope the kevlar stays, and if I need to replace the shock cord, I just tie it to that loop on the end of the kevlar which reaches almost to the top of the tube.
It's kevlar, don't need nomex. I used that because that is all I have - 100# thread. It's fine for most of my L/MPR stuff. I felt it wasnt strong enough alone for a high power motor, hence the braiding.What I would do is a couple things. Maybe use a thicker piece of Kevlar and get a Nomex shock cord protector to cover it. Just to add another measure of protection.
I would just like to state how frustrating it is to watch someone who is good at rattlecan painting. I hear a voice in my head the whole time saying "Look how easy it is! What is wrong with you to have so much trouble with it?"Painting and decals are done. Here’s the next video!
just my two centsIt's kevlar, don't need nomex. I used that because that is all I have - 100# thread. It's fine for most of my L/MPR stuff. I felt it wasnt strong enough alone for a high power motor, hence the braiding.
there's nothing easy about using rattle cans, it just takes practice and once you find a brand that works for you stay with it.I would just like to state how frustrating it is to watch someone who is good at rattlecan painting. I hear a voice in my head the whole time saying "Look how easy it is! What is wrong with you to have so much trouble with it?"
Rocket looks great!
I just finished my Zephyr and will be going for Level 1 cert on the 20th. My students are so excited, as am I. My oldest, turning 18 on the 19th was so excited he had his parents order his Zephyr kit.
Good luck what motor are you going to use?I too have built one of these bad boys... if it does not get canceled on sat i will be getting my LVL 1 in NV with ROCKONN Club
Sounds goodH182-14A. ~ 2000ft
I280DM-15A ~ 4000ft
Probably the H motor so I dont have to chase it... I have a jolly logic chute that should keep me from chasing it to far
weather has be crappy here ... need to finish getting the paint laid down and some custom decals on.
Sorry I haven't been in the forum as much as I would have liked to be these last few weeks, but I would like to thank all those that offered their compliments. The funny thing is that I DO struggle with rattle cans as much as the next guy, probably even more so! But I have found that prep work is 90% of what leads to successful paint jobs. The better the rocket looks unpainted will determine how good it looks painted.
I just uploaded Episode 7, which is the final video prior to the maiden flight, which I plan on doing this Friday. Just crossing my "T's" and dotting my "I's" now.
Thanks Adam! Hopefully Episode 8 will be the best one yet!Nice job nice attention to detail looks like she’s ready to fly
Good luck sir !!
It will be !!!!Thanks Adam! Hopefully Episode 8 will be the best one yet!
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