3D PrintingSoon to join the ranks of Prusa owners.

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Tobor

TRF Supporter
This morning my wife gave me a nice surprise. We now have the funds available to purchase a Pursa Prusa i3 MK3S+.

I have lurked these 3D printing sub-forums off and on for awhile now but I still have some *basic* questions.

1) Which sheet option should I select with my purchase. The smooth double-sided PEI sheet or the textured powder-coated double-sided sheet, for general all around use?
2) Best first book to own? Is the 3D Printing for Dummies still a good choice for this?
3) Best comprehensive online guide to nozzles/hotends?
4) Best comprehensive online review/guide to filaments?
5) Is the full Bear upgrade worth the investment?

Tobor

Last edited:

Michael L

Random Pixel Generator
TRF Supporter
I use both. The smooth for PLA and textured for PETG. I just tried some Essentium PCTG (it's supposed to print like PLA with PETG qualities) and I had to use the smooth plate. You'll want both but it won't hurt to order smooth, print a bunch of PLA to get started.

I switched to a smooth plate and the filament prints and releases very nicely so it behaves like PLA but has the durability of PETG. PETG basically releases itself from the textured plate when it cools.

I had to change the silicone hot end sock. You'll want to use one of those btw. Amazon has them for cheap. V6 hot end silicone sock... or something like that.

Go to Thingiverse and download some "Things". You'll get a lot of practice that way.

cwbullet

Obsessed with Rocketry
Staff member
Global Mod
You will never regret the purchase.

thzero

Well-Known Member
TRF Supporter
You will never regret the purchase.
I can say that the build from kit has been a PITA. Some parts I like, but I almost do prefer the design of the CR-6 SE more. However, Creality support sucks and I've heard nothing but good from Prusa (another non-rocketry buddy has one), so there is that. And there are plenty of add-ons/replacements, etc for Prusa too.

Tobor

TRF Supporter
I use both. The smooth for PLA and textured for PETG. I just tried some Essentium PCTG (it's supposed to print like PLA with PETG qualities) and I had to use the smooth plate. You'll want both but it won't hurt to order smooth, print a bunch of PLA to get started.

I switched to a smooth plate and the filament prints and releases very nicely so it behaves like PLA but has the durability of PETG. PETG basically releases itself from the textured plate when it cools.

I had to change the silicone hot end sock. You'll want to use one of those btw. Amazon has them for cheap. V6 hot end silicone sock... or something like that.

Go to Thingiverse and download some "Things". You'll get a lot of practice that way.
Thx for the tips. As to Thingiverse, every time I visit that site I get lost for hours... I also created an account at Prusa Printers.

I can say that the build from kit has been a PITA. Some parts I like, but I almost do prefer the design of the CR-6 SE more. However, Creality support sucks and I've heard nothing but good from Prusa (another non-rocketry buddy has one), so there is that. And there are plenty of add-ons/replacements, etc for Prusa too.
Yeah I feel ya. Although I am mechanically inclined, I have been known to screw up a few things...
I am sure my Sailor's Voice will get a good workout when I assemble the MK3S.

Michael L

Random Pixel Generator
TRF Supporter
I took two days to build mine. 2/3 of the way thru I was second guessing that choice. When I finished I thought it wasn't that bad. The first time I had a problem (that really wasn't a problem, see below) I was glad that I built it.

The Essentium filament reminded me of something. When the print doesn't go right, do the first layer calibration. I bought Prusament PLA, PETG, ASA, and something I'm forgetting. Those are all repeatable. By that I mean that I can throw a spool of Yellow Prusament PLA on, print, switch to Prusament Red, etc and never do a first layer cal. The Essentium PCTG (gorgeous, durable looking parts btw) must flow differently. I say that because the second print of the same thing failed very early into to the print (it's a 6 hour print so I check on it). I always forget to do the first layer cal. It's important to get right. YT has a lot of good tutorials on how to do a first layer cal. So does Prusa:

Tobor

TRF Supporter
lol, just realized I've been misspelling P-r-u-s-a. That is sacrilege!!!

Tobor

TRF Supporter
Okay, I just completed ordering the MK3S+ kit. I selected the all black color option and the smooth PEI sheet. So, if the Prusa order backlog holds to it current state, the printer will arrive the 1st or 2nd week in May.

cwbullet

Obsessed with Rocketry
Staff member
Global Mod
Corrected the title.

TRF Supporter

cwbullet

Obsessed with Rocketry
Staff member
Global Mod
Thank you very much.
That is what I am paid to do....wait I am not paid!

Arpak

Well-Known Member
That is what I am paid to do....wait I am not paid!
Quick, change it back and send an invoice.

cwbullet

Obsessed with Rocketry
Staff member
Global Mod
Enjoy. I will tell you from experience that the Original is better than any clone. I own two clones. Neither is as good as the original.

caveduck

semi old rocketeer
I'm also a happy owner of a Prusa MK3S built from kit. It took a few evenings but I'm glad I built it just for the knowledge acquired.

Heretic that I am, I print mainly PETG on a #600 wet sanded smooth plate. The first layer cal is crucial, you have to dial it down pretty tight for PETG. If the single outside brim line stays down you should be good to go. It's also important to tell the slicer to not cross perimeters. And be sure to lube the slides reasonably often. Happy printing!

And thanks Chuck for herding this mob of cats as a volunteer gig.

cwbullet

Obsessed with Rocketry
Staff member
Global Mod
I'm also a happy owner of a Prusa MK3S built from kit. It took a few evenings but I'm glad I built it just for the knowledge acquired.

Heretic that I am, I print mainly PETG on a #600 wet sanded smooth plate. The first layer cal is crucial, you have to dial it down pretty tight for PETG. If the single outside brim line stays down you should be good to go. It's also important to tell the slicer to not cross perimeters. And be sure to lube the slides reasonably often. Happy printing!

And thanks Chuck for herding this mob of cats as a volunteer gig.

Tobor

TRF Supporter
Okay, I just completed ordering the MK3S+ kit. I selected the all black color option and the smooth PEI sheet. So, if the Prusa order backlog holds to it current state, the printer will arrive the 1st or 2nd week in May.
This morning I received an email from Fedex that my Prusa order is in their hands.

Huxter

TRF Supporter
Whoot! Whoot! It was nice to have a better hex driver - the 2.5 mm will be used 90-95% of the time. I picked up a set of 14 hex drivers for $20 at Home Depot. Make sure you have a really flat surface! My long card table was not! cwbullet Obsessed with Rocketry Staff member Administrator TRF Lifetime Supporter Global Mod Similar: I order the Kobalt brand. They come in a calming blue version. Tobor Get your peanuts.... TRF Supporter Not to knock your choices in allen keys.... I prefer using "Ball Drivers" like these Bondhus tools. I discovered them around 78' when I started building R/C planes. Tobor Get your peanuts.... TRF Supporter Ta-da!!! manixFan Not a rocket scientist Look through the entire assembly manual before you build, and/or watch a couple of build videos on Youtube. I was able to build mine over two evenings, and on a couple of occasions I realized if I had more closely read through the manual I could have avoided a couple of do-overs. The 'pride of ownership' you'll get after your first successful print is pretty fulfilling. One thing that took me a while was understanding the dozens of parameters that are available for tweaking. Many of them you won't have to worry about, but others, like retraction, become more important with different filaments and the kinds of models you print. I learned a lot trying to print sharp pointed nose cones. Turns out blunt is a lot easier. Good luck with your build! Tony one Youtube channel I really like is CNC Kitchen: Last edited: cwbullet Obsessed with Rocketry Staff member Administrator TRF Lifetime Supporter Global Mod Tobor Get your peanuts.... TRF Supporter I finished the build late Friday night (really late) and went through the calibration process Saturday morning. Still have to re-run the 1st layer cal once I finish setting up OctoPi on an R-Pi. Huxter Well-Known Member TRF Supporter Awesome! Looks like you used the right amount of gummy bears too! That first layer calibration can come out smooth as butta! Def find both limits and dial it in. Happy printing! Tobor Get your peanuts.... TRF Supporter Here is my rough draft for the printer enclosure. I've already purchased the Ikea Lack tables. I will be using built up S4S Oak Board (From Home Depot) for the bottom section. The build up will consist of 2" x 2" (1.5" x 1.5" actual) + 0.5" x 2" (0.5" x 1.5" actual) + 0.5" x 3" (0.5" x 2.5" actual & cut to 2"). Huxter Well-Known Member TRF Supporter I hope that's good and stable for ya. I like the compactness. Would love to see pics of it complete w printer! Good luck! Tobor Get your peanuts.... TRF Supporter I hope that's good and stable for ya. I like the compactness. Would love to see pics of it complete w printer! Good luck! Yeppers, will do. Tobor Get your peanuts.... TRF Supporter I hope that's good and stable for ya. I like the compactness. Would love to see pics of it complete w printer! Good luck! Well..... When I did the initial online search on the Home Depot website, I wasn't really being attentive to material pricing ( I had thought pricing was for 6ft lengths). My visit to the store was a true "Sticker Shock" moment. Dimensionally stable lumber like hardwoods are horrendously expensive. Turns out the 2x2 Red Oak I had selected was$12.16 for a 3 foot board! As the project was to build up the 2x2 to true 2"x2" dimensions, total material cost would have exceeded \$130!

Needless to say, I've scrapped the idea of using hardwoods. I am reworking the concept using 1.5" PVC pipe or 1.5" Black pipe.

Btw, I was able to dial in the 1st layer cal, although my technique was different from the manual's procedure. Basically, I just kept repeating the routine nudging the height bias on each run until the single layer square pad printed at the end was nice and uniform with good adhesion.

And my first ever print job....

Huxter

Well-Known Member
TRF Supporter
Wahoo - you're now a Prusa printer! I have heard lumber prices have sky rocketed, but didn't realize how high the price is now.

I've been printing alot of PETG lately, and the smooth PEI sheet is not liking it much - it sticks too well! The glue stick doesn't help to release things much. I'll need a new PEI sheet if I keep that up! The bed is much nicer than the glass bed on my old printer. I have a couple cans of aqua-net left over now!

Happy printing

Staff member