There’s something specific about the distance between the fins that makes the whistle particularly loud on rockets like this and amw’s white wolf I don’t know the specifics However. That said I do know that the two edges next to eachother (trailing of fore fin leading of aft) need to be squaredCan someone tell me about what makes the whistle???
From what I understand its the dual fins but should it be blunt leading edge or rounded or even tapered to one side?
I’m curious because I also want to use this rocket for my L3 if possible but did you find the fiberglass reinforcement to be a necessary structural thing or is it more so insurance? Especially if I only ever plan to fly in the low end of l3 on occasion or high end of l2.I peeled a layer off the tubes and then slid 6lb fiberglass tube over airframe and payload. Coated with West systems epoxy and applied with a brush. Let it set up a little and then slipped shrink tubing on and heated it up. Never did this before but found it was easy to do with positive results.
Rocsim shows 10k feet plus with the smallest of 3 "M" motors and at around mach.I’m curious because I also want to use this rocket for my L3 if possible but did you find the fiberglass reinforcement to be a necessary structural thing or is it more so insurance? Especially if I only ever plan to fly in the low end of l3 on occasion or high end of l2.
Makes sense I’m currently away from my sims but I know loc tubes can go Mach and I’ve put about 50 g on one and it flew great so I probably shouldn’t be too worried. I’ll definitely be keeping up with your build since I might wanna try glassing it if I do a level three on this as wellRocsim shows 10k feet plus with the smallest of 3 "M" motors and at around mach.
So it was for structural as well as trying something new.
I also plan on glassing fins to motor tube and airframe.
Can someone tell me about what makes the whistle???
That is what LOC sent.Why is the MMT tube the same length as the fin can tube? Or am I missing something here?
Also...subscribed.
Well...yeah...Just wondering if there was a specific reason for it. Seems like that would make it difficult to insert a e-bay if the MMT tube is flush with the top of the fin canThat is what LOC sent.
Well I cut off 10" from payload and added to airframe.Well...yeah...Just wondering if there was a specific reason for it. Seems like that would make it difficult to insert a e-bay if the MMT tube is flush with the top of the fin can
I put tape on the inside. After it all dried I used a dremel to cut out the slots from foward start and to the aft including that small part inbetween so I can slide the whole fin can.Thanks for creating this thread. I have had this kit for a while, but haven't started it yet. Great to see your build.
One question: When you glassed the rear body tube did you have any issues with epoxy getting into the fin slots? I have been debating whether its worth trying to fill the slots before glassing or just take a chance.
Thanks for creating this thread. I have had this kit for a while, but haven't started it yet. Great to see your build.
One question: When you glassed the rear body tube did you have any issues with epoxy getting into the fin slots? I have been debating whether its worth trying to fill the slots before glassing or just take a chance.
Yes but since this was shrink wrapped I had to skim it 2 times after wrapping to get that smooth finish filling in some imperfections.You can allow the 'glass to wrap over them initially, then remove the area of 'glass covering them with a sharp craft or scalpel blade when it reaches the so called 'green' or 'leather' stage (ie touch dry, but not fully cured). Re-cutting fin slots is pretty straight foward at that point, as the slots in the cardboard substrate act as a guide.
shipping dimensions most likely? Mine was only 22 inch so not too sure?That is what LOC sent.
Well...yeah...Just wondering if there was a specific reason for it. Seems like that would make it difficult to insert a e-bay if the MMT tube is flush with the top of the fin can
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