Thanks for the tips strake. I will check on the outlet pressure, I didn't consider that. I just assumed it was nominal. I'm guessing it's good here in the city limits since the inspector didn't bring it up.
I found the table 402.2 referenced by JordanT's info above. Looks like 35,000 Btu/h for the dryer and 65,000 Btu/h for the oven. Here's a link to the table in case anyone else is wondering the same thing:
Chapter 4
The stub for the oven will be coming up through the floor. Wouldn't it be better to have the shutoff valve under the floor (accessible from the basement) or does it need to be above the floor?
The stub for the oven will be coming up through the floor. Wouldn't it be better to have the shutoff valve under the floor (accessible from the basement) or does it need to be above the floor?
In ohio its hardpipe, shutoff, then flex through the floor to the appliance.
The way I've always seen it was hardpipe through the floor, then shutoff, then flex. You need to be able to reach the shutoff at the appliance because flex is, by code, "supposed" to be replaced more frequently than most anyone really does. I agree, however, that this still makes the shutoff inaccessible in an emergency.
Exactly my point. Oh well. I'm not asking you guys to change the code or anything, just venting on how it seems illogical
Where I'll be opening up the pipe in the basement is a few feet below where it will open in the garage, so I guess it should theoretically float up to the garage instead of into the basement. I'll take your advice and not try to blow it out. What's the risk, static?
It seems like it would be wise to pressure test the pipe, more scientific than just soap bubbles. I'd have to find a gauge. Home Depot has one for $11 but they don't carry it locally. I'd assume a plumbing supply would have one? $20 for piece of mind would be just fine with me. What do you use to safely add pressure?
I was also advised by a plumber a while back to open the valve at the meter slowly after I'm done so that the gas rushing in to fill the pipe doesn't trip a safety mechanism and lock up my meter. Good advice!
My last question, I think... I've seen diagrams by manufacturers on where to place the gas hookup and electrical for the range. Each seems to be a little different. Is there a standard location that is acceptable for all brands/models? Or just two inches from the wall wherever it looks right?
Enter your email address to join: