Cobalt upscale build

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I'm not a turner but I thought the standard method of turning the concave part of a bowl is to screw the workpiece onto the revolving...don't know the correct term...drive plate?

1600' seems about right for a motor deploy flight on our fields.

You were close, it's face plate. I suppose you could hollow it, shape the outside, then part it off. Then you'd have to turn it around and attach the hollow end somehow so you could finish the tip. Sounds like more trouble than it's worth. But there are a myriad of ways to attach a piece to the lathe. I'm sure it could be done.

Yeah, I was thinking 1600ft sounded about right.
 
Jim,I'm not so sure your not Norm in drag(LOL).I'm speachless.Using different types of wood together would really look cool.That would make a great display on your desk at work.I'm very proud that I got you started.:wink:

Because of you, I've discovered another aspect of rocket building that I'm truly enjoying.
 
Thanks guys! I think everybody needs a lathe. LOL

I had a chance at one cheap at an auction sale......only it was big, old, and HEAVY. Still keep my eyes open for one.
So what kind of lathe do you have, and how big is it? I'd like one, may look at a smallish one soon. I like how you finish centering rings to size.
 
Because of you, I've discovered another aspect of rocket building that I'm truly enjoying.

Well it's nice to know that I'm good for some advice,but it's your skills that really stand out.Hope I can help when ever you need it.
 
A few videos.

[YOUTUBE]VEngo4qqKFA[/YOUTUBE]

I recall from a woodturning class that you need to cut in the direction of grain, to avoid lifting grains and splitting the piece (or producing a rough surface). I see that you're cutting quite successfully in the other direction in this clip. I wonder if I'm misremembering the teaching, or if it only applies to certain types of wood, or maybe it only applies to apprentices like me :=)

Ari.
 
I recall from a woodturning class that you need to cut in the direction of grain, to avoid lifting grains and splitting the piece (or producing a rough surface). I see that you're cutting quite successfully in the other direction in this clip. I wonder if I'm misremembering the teaching, or if it only applies to certain types of wood, or maybe it only applies to apprentices like me :=)

Ari.

Actually, the easiest cuts are perpendicular to cross grain, and the hardest are end grain. But with the shape of a nose cone, you have to cut both, just like you would with a bowl. They make special tools for end grain, especially for hollowing bowls, but I generally just use spindle gouges for both. Remember too, basswood is fairly soft and easy to cut. But if you look back through my turning pics, you'll see that the wood gets very rough indeed. 60 or 80 grit sandpaper takes care of that.

Keep in mind, despite what some of you think, I'm really not an experienced nor accomplished turner. I'm sure some turners would say I do things the "wrong" way. But I don't believe in right or wrong, so much, I believe in what works for me.
 
I had a chance at one cheap at an auction sale......only it was big, old, and HEAVY. Still keep my eyes open for one.
So what kind of lathe do you have, and how big is it? I'd like one, may look at a smallish one soon. I like how you finish centering rings to size.

Remember, you can do small things with a big lathe, but it's hard or impossible to do big things on a small lathe. I've had several lathes, including a Craftsman, old Shopsmith, Harbor Freight mini, and my current Harbor Freight lathe. I've had my current lathe for several years, and have been very happy with it. I'm sure the fit and finish is nowhere near a Jet or Nova, but it's done everything I've asked of it. I would caution you about mini lathes, they can be underpowered. If you do want a mini, because of room or price, I highly recommend a Jet mini or Rikon mini. I've heard good things about both.

Some of the most popular lathes are midi lathes. The Jet midi would be a good choice, as would the Delta midi. My b-in-law has a Delta midi that he really likes. Before you choose a lathe, try to look at them in person. If there's a Woodcraft near you, that would be a good place to visit. You can also see if there's a woodturning or woodworking club in your area. And you can also visit woodturning forums to get advice.
 
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Well it's nice to know that I'm good for some advice,but it's your skills that really stand out.Hope I can help when ever you need it.

Never stop encouraging me to work outside my comfort zone.
 
That store looks awesome! I'll have to run by there, like the classes they offer as well!

I really like Woodcraft. Their prices on most items are high, but the guys there are great and they carry a lot of things nobody else does locally.
 
Time to add the u-bolt and nose weight. The u-bolt, with nuts, washers, and lockwashers weighs 3.95oz. Open Rocket says I need another 6oz of weight. So I weighed out 3oz of BB's, hoping that the resin would weigh 3oz. I got a few more BB's in the left side...

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So I pulled some out with a magnet, and put them in the right side. I had hoped that some of the BB's would fall down past the washers, but the holes aren't big enough. I also wished I'd drilled the holes deeper, but it'll be fine. I'm using the Easy Cast resin from Michael's again, that I've used on several other builds. I like it, it's not very thick as resins go, and flows around the BB's and u-bolt very well.

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I mixed the resin thoroughly, and poured it in the holes. It didn't add quite as much weight as I'd hoped.

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So I kept adding more resin every time the level went down a little, presumably as it settled in around the BB's, etc. The last time I added 20 more BB's. I think I got another 1.1oz of weight.

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I got the holes pretty much filled to the brim. You know, every time I handle that nose cone, I'm amazed at what a chunk of lumber it is!

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Hey Jim ,I need a nosecone, custom made of course........pretty much need it ASAP LOL


You know the the worse part.......my local woodworking shop has the RIKON lathe on sale ,but it`s a bad time to do so :cry:


Oh well !

Nice work Jim....damn nice work !



Paul T
 
If you need more weight, why not just drill 2 more holes 90degress to the originals and repeat the BB/resin process??

Just use a very large quick link to add weight if needed.

This is what I do. Check out the quick link in my Madcow Squat some time.

Certified Rocket Monkey

Great ideas, guys. But after weighing the nose cone, I ended up with a total of 9.25oz of weight. I think that will be fine. The nose cone now weighs 52.75oz overall.
 
Hey Jim ,I need a nosecone, custom made of course........pretty much need it ASAP LOL

You know the the worse part.......my local woodworking shop has the RIKON lathe on sale ,but it`s a bad time to do so :cry:

Oh well !

Nice work Jim....damn nice work !

Paul T

Sure, you want a 12" 5:1 ogive? :tongue:

I don't know, Paul, it's on sale. You know you want it...
 
I started putting the Cobalt mini together. That's half the fun of an upscale, is comparing it to the original size rocket. Plus, I'm a big believer in if you're doing an upscale of a current kit, the least you can do is purchase the kit. Yes, I'm using epoxy and power tools on an LPR build. :grin:

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Got the motor mount done, is as far as I got.

I took some before sealer and primer photos of that beautiful nose cone. (Yes, I'm tooting my own horn!)


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The sanding sealer brought out the grain somewhat. Sure will be a shame to paint over it.

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See? This is why I can't throw old blocks of wood away. This old piece of redwood 4x4 was perfect for pushing the aft centering ring in with my usual 1/2" nylon spacers.

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It was a shame to cover the grain with paint, but it still looks pretty good in blue.

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