WRC2 - Wireless Controller and Dumb Batteries

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Dave A

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I use CR123 batteries in my lockboxes for real estate. I just buy generic batteries in bulk.
I thought a new one of those batteries would be ok for a 1-time use in my Missleworks WRC2, Wireless Controller.
Wrong answer. The WRC2 manual warned that battery voltage in the transmitter has to have peak voltage at least 2.9v-3.0v when the fire button is pressed.
I have the WRC2 mounted on a plate that fits in the nose cone of every rocket I have 6" or larger. It's my "the-main-is-coming-out-no-matter-what" system. I've had a poorly sealed AV bay over-pressurize after the drogue charges fired and that event damaged one of the older Perfectflite AltWD's. Thus main never deployed and no Level 3 on 1st attempt.
After arming my IRIS at one of the MDRA away-cells a few weeks ago, as we drove away....boom...the nose popped off!
I know I did not touch the button....it was a low battery. Once the WRC2 begins to lose comms with the receiver (and low voltages do weird things to electronics anyway) it fires CH2 (in case you have a locator siren attached)
We tested it and the voltage dropped below 2.4v when the button was depressed.
After having only 1 generic battery left (that checked good) I left CH2 open and 1 charge on CH1.
It worked flawlessly.
Moral of the Story: Yeah, buy good, name-brand batteries. I use them in all the other electronic stuff. I should have known better.
 
I have "chinese specials" batteries in bulk of various kinds and they go dead in 3 to 6 months just sitting in the package. I learned that early enough not to use them in rockets when a wireless remote switch wouldn't work. Tested a bunch of them I had on hand and they were dead. Kurt
 
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