What the heck am I doing wrong? Aerotech makes a wrench for the aft end but the front end is where I need a wrench!

[majordude]

The back end sometimes unscrews without the need of a wrench but the front end (delay and ejection side) sometimes gets STUCK and I've needed plyers which just scratches the hell out of the case.

What am I doing wrong?

 

[Buzzard]

It is a problem and a pain. I put a wrap of tape around the closure before using a pair of pliers. Miss the soft jaw Cannon plug pliers from my Air Force career.

Chas

 

[mikec]

Sometimes it happens to me too, not sure why.

A rubber strap wrench is a good thing to have and sometimes does the trick, especially on larger cases.

 

[mtnmanak]

All the motor instructions tell you to "lightly grease" the parts. I don't think that is enough - I grease the living snot out of everything that isn't a motor grain.

 

[seth_cooper]

I've always used 2 strap wrenches.

"Cannon plug pliers" ...a tool that I didn't know existed until today but could have used many times in the past.

 

[dhbarr]

I've always used 2 strap wrenches.

"Cannon plug wrench" ...a tool that I didn't know existed until today but could have used many times in the past.

TIL -- need to get one of these into my range box.

 

[manixFan]

I have a couple of pieces of leather that are strapped to my vice so I can flip them down to cover each jaw. That way I can still get a good grip without marring the surface. I'll use that to hold the closure, then while wearing a pair of nitrile gloves I can usually get a good grip and unscrew the closure. But I'm always very careful to not over tighten the vice jaws on the closure to avoid distorting it.

I did just buy a strap wrench for larger cases, but as @Buzzard mentions, I'll wrap the case with blue tape before using the wrench to avoid scratching it. I've also started making sure the threads are really clean before assembly, and then greasing them up before I build the motor.


Tony

 

[n3tjm]

What kind of grease you using for the threads. Most turn to glue when they get to hot. I use super lube without any problems. Only grease the orings and threads. If the oring comes in contact with BP don't grease it. Most cases do not grease the liners. It's much easier and cleaner removing liners without the grease gluing then to the cases ( there are some motors where greased liners are required for a good seal).

 

[Rocket86]

Maybe it's just that the threads are dirty. I make sure there's no dirt on the threads and use a light greasing with Super Lube. When assembling I install the forward closure first and snug the rear one with the wrench last. When disassembling I remove the rear closure first with the wrench, and the forward one unscrews with no tools required. As long as there is no tension on the threads they always come right off, 18mm - 29mm. Is the case distorted around the threads?

 

[JoePfeiffer]

I've always used 2 strap wrenches.

"Cannon plug pliers" ...a tool that I didn't know existed until today but could have used many times in the past.

Thinking of the number of times I've wrapped slip joint plier jaws with paper towel and electrical tape because I didn't know about these...

 

[SolarYellow]

Finally figured out why I kept the straps from old Birkenstocks.

 

[fyrwrxz]

Maybe I'm just doing it all wrong, but starting with a clean case, I burnish in either powdered graphite or moly d. until I see the shine. Then I use super lube or a German synthetic high temp bearing grease designed for racing brake systems. Sorry, on the road, forgot the name. I ordered a six pack over a decade ago, gave at least three tins of it away, rebuilt/restored a couple of classic Mustang and still have enuff to last way beyond my life span. Gloves only when the case is hot. My three cents.

 

[SolarYellow]

Any AR builders here using Aeroshell?

 

[Steve Shannon]

Any AR builders here using Aeroshell?

For barrel bushings, yes, but not for my motor hardware. I have no doubt it would work, but SuperLube works well. I carry a strap wrench with a rubber strap and I take the motor apart as soon after use as possible.

 

[techrat]

Rubber jar openers.
They sell these little rubbery grippy things for opening pickle jars.
That usually works on the ejection end of my 29/40-120, and doesn't scratch the hell out of the case. Give it a try.

 

[AtlPhilip]

I use Dow 111 lubricant. Good to 400°F.
If you ever get any on a casing, and do not clean it off with solvents, not even masking tape will stick.

 

[rcktnut]

Never had a problem with any closures not coming loose by hand only. After use I drop the closures in a little container with vinegar, let for about 10 minutes and then into the soap water, and use a tooth brush to clean the threads. After drying I grease the threads with Super Lube.

 

[llickteig1]

Loosen your closures immediately upon recovery of your rocket. Or at least ASAP. I'm talking while still warm. I'm not sure I have ever used a wrench on Aerotech closures 29mm through 75mm. I use plenty of either red grease or Super Lube on closure threads. None or minimal on liners.

Under no circumstances would I use Dow 111 on anything other than o-rings - that shat is impossible to cleanup.

--Lance.

 

[dpower]

Since you mentioned the wrench, I’ll assume you’re referring to HobbyLine cases with the smooth forward closure. They certainly would benefit from some form of knurling like the RMS-Plus cases. I clean the threads very carefully after each use, using alcohol wipes and a fingernail, until it threads on smoothly. Usually light grease threads with Super Lube before storage. Never had one seize.

 

[4regt4]

I bought a used 24/40 case off of Ebay. Forward closure was stuck on really tight. I gave up and put it on my workbench.

Then a couple of weeks later, I thought I'd give it another try. Put an ice cube on the counter and ran the case under hot running water, trying to avoid the closure. Sat the closure on the ice cube for a moment, and it twisted right off.

No damage that I could tell, I threaded the closure onto another tube, and threaded a new closure onto the used tube just to see if there was any looseness in the threads. I've used it several times.

Hans.

 

[David Schwantz]

I just use my hands

 

[cbrarick]

stop torquing the closure so hard! you just need to compress the oring a little bit, not crush it!

 

[thequick]

 

[gltruett]

I've kept a set of these in my range box for many years.
https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/gun-tools/shotgun-tools/magazine-tubecap-pliers/

 

[SolarYellow]

I've kept a set of these in my range box for many years.
https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/gun-tools/shotgun-tools/magazine-tubecap-pliers/View attachment 621342

Brownell's is almost always the most expensive place to buy anything they sell, marking it way, way up. Like Apogee +++. And like Apogee, they are also the only place to get some things.

Those pliers are not one of those things.

 

[gltruett]

Just do a search now that you know what they look like. Amazon has a set made by Crescent for about $29. They call them connector pliers.

 

[majordude]

Brownell's is almost always the most expensive place to buy anything they sell, marking it way, way up. Like Apogee +++. And like Apogee, they are also the only place to get some things.

Those pliers are not one of those things.

Amen.

 

[P_Carroll2525]

Amazon:

AERO - CANNON PLUG PLIERS - AT508K https://a.co/d/1TMy39X

 

[NAR29996]

It is a problem and a pain. I put a wrap of tape around the closure before using a pair of pliers. Miss the soft jaw Cannon plug pliers from my Air Force career.

Chas

Chas,
You and I were in the same career field (316x0T) and we server together for a few months at Carswell AFB. This is what I remember these to be: https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-529...prefix=cannon+plug+pliers,aps,99&sr=8-13&th=1

 

[majordude]

I bought these and they rock! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756N84VK?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1