What did you do rocket wise today?

[Blast it Tom!]

And the MR8 insanity reaches its apex...


Insane, because beyond putting the window in, I thought, "I'll show it on the Redstone," only to find that I 'd forgotten that the base needed sanded more to fit into that ST-20 tube! I'm sure glad the tower isn't glued on yet...

I also masked and got some fluorescent orange on my Odd'l Cyclone.

 

[Art Upton]

That makes sense. In this case, unless I can make peace with separating it in the center and attaching the nose cone with screws, I'm not sure those lengths will make me a happy camper.

You could put a 7.5 "Stiffy" tube inside the Mid Point Coupler:
https://locprecision.com/products/tube-coupler-stiffener?variant=39778637021375

I always used these inside my LOC couplers for Ebays and other uses.

 

[terryg]

I want to do a Big Bucky Jones. The nosecone is very close to scale. Lots of issues to address, and I need to keep mass down as much as possible.

Yeah, that size inconsistency is what I'm considering at this point. The initial project was going to be foam, epoxy, minimum hand laid glass and hopefully one good flight. Funky tube size wouldn't be an issue with a hand made cone under these circumstances. Do you know if the 3 sizes of these tubes are fairly consistent? If I need another, is it likely that I could find another to match? They tend to be ovaled in the stores around here.

Today's consideration is in dropping the cheap tube for reliable LOC tubing size. However, LOC's 30" tube length adds it own bit of concerns with 15" of coupler in a 42" ariframe, where this cheap tube would be a one-piece. Either way may require making a new shoulder for the nose cone.

You will add more weight in trying strengthen and finish the sonotube, when instead you could get better results by just using loc tubing to match the nosecone you already have.

 

[tsmith1315]

You will add more weight in trying strengthen and finish the sonotube, when instead you could get better results by just using loc tubing to match the nosecone you already have.

No plans to glass the tube in either case, but I can see this stuff will soak up everything like a sponge and need more finish work than a glassine surface.. Strengthwise, I'd eyeball this tube in an unbroken 42" length to be as stout as a LOC tube with a break in the center.

Chris has a good deal on a pair of LOC 7½" tubes with coupler. If the shoulder on this cone fits it, that may be too tempting to pass. I need to measure it.

 

[terryg]

Add a stiffy tube for the coupler and a some centering rings from Loc and you should be set to go!

 

[JackC]

Reviewed flight cards from OROC’s launch last weekend.

 

[miket6000]

I just got home from holding the first ever event for the Otago Rocketry Club. It was a build evening where we successfully built 10 BMS School Rockets over 2 hours. Everyone seemed to have a good time, there was plenty of fun banter and no unfixable mistakes.

This event sold out, but the next lot of rockets are in the country and looking ready to be delivered tomorrow, easily in time for the next sold out build in a couple of weeks.

Now I just need to sort out the first club flying event. The ground equipment is all ready, there's now a number of people out there with rockets wanting to fly, I just need a free weekend so I can actually host it.

 

[KenECoyote]

You will add more weight in trying strengthen and finish the sonotube, when instead you could get better results by just using loc tubing to match the nosecone you already have.

Yup, that was a consideration, however it's hard to argue with $12 vs. the LOC tubes with shipping cost (of note is that I had ordered some last year):

 

[Charles_McG]

It’s starting to look like an airplane.

 

[terryg]

True, However on a 7.5" rocket with large fins the cost of the body tube is fairly small compaired to the cost of the engines needed to fly it!

 

[KenECoyote]

True, However on a 7.5" rocket with large fins the cost of the body tube is fairly small compaired to the cost of the engines needed to fly it!

 

[Rocket Guy in Milford]

Thought about this a bit.

View attachment 647190
"Great" minds run on the same channels, ... Recently purchased NC for $15 (Yard Sale) & Quik-Tube 8" (6922) Lowes, which fits the 7.51" nicely. Also purchased XL Giant Leap Glass Sock, ... Launch someti.e this Autumn!

What was to be a super cheap, large foam-ish rocket built from a $2.00 yard sale tube is threatening to morph into something else.

 

[tsmith1315]

@Rocket Guy in Milford - It's awesome that your nose cone fits the tube! Do you have a design in mind? Keep us posted.

 

[Art Upton]

What I did rocketry today was starting to rearrange my Rocket Lair. And look what I found

https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/estes-outlander-found-yet-another-nib.186537/

 

[frogglicker]

I just finished editing the Mega Red Max video from last weekend's launch at C.R.A.S.H.

The delay was a little short but I still got 1,028 feet out of it. I'm ready to start actively working with electronic deployments because drilling is not giving me the results I want.

Enjoy!

 

[lakeroadster]

I just finished editing the Mega Red Max video from last weekend's launch at C.R.A.S.H.

The delay was a little short but I still got 1,028 feet out of it. I'm ready to start actively working with electronic deployments because drilling is not giving me the results I want.

Enjoy!

Rock solid steady ascent. No spin whatsoever. Hats off to you sir.​

​

​

 

[bad_idea]

Was done flying for the weekend but got to help with an interesting flight today. A fellow who was prepping a rocket as the range at the Texas Shootout was gradually being torn down asked me if I knew how to build Aerotech motors. When I said I did, he asked me if I could build an I600R for him while he worked on the rest of his prep, as otherwise he might not have time to get it to the pad before the waiver closed. This was a minimum diameter 38mm rocket going to 10k without a tracker. Miraculously the rocket descended nearby and was recovered.

 

[Cape Byron]

Needed some C5-3 motors for proto testing. Ordered some Antars and Redstones to fill up the box.

 

[Brayzure]

Do not epoxy the nose cone in permanently. Use 2 screws to hold it to the tube. I don't epoxy my couplers either to the payload tube, just use screws to hold them in.


They also make plastic rivets to do the same thing, but screws work better for me and are easy.

Opted for masking tape for the time being, seems solid enough. If it were larger I'd probably opt for rivets, they seem pretty straightforward. I'm assuming not epoxying the nose cone is more of a "there are better options" kind of thing as opposed to anything critically wrong with that option.


Anyway, got solid fillets on the launch lug, and sanded the nose cone well enough that a coat of primer should do the trick. Fin fillets seem to be fine, so I left them as is. Really all I need to do is work out the best way to attach the shock cord to the eyebolt on the payload section. Instructions say to tie a knot and secure it with a small drop of epoxy, but I've heard that that can weaken the cord, so I'm exploring other options. I think after that it's on to priming and painting.

 

[bjphoenix]

I started a new design using BT60 for 18mm motors to fly on small fields. I cut my own centering rings out of cereal boxes and I started making a thrust block using a short piece of BT55. I dug through my stuff and found that I'm almost completely out of BT20, I found one piece long enough to make a motor mount. I have to do some fine tuning of my open rocket sim then I'll cut the fins.

 

[frogglicker]

After working on the Goblin Fail video, I was motivated to fix it. I grabbed my jig for cutting fin slots in 4-in tubes and trimmed off the ziprot. I then measured the cutoff, marked and trimmed the new tube. Inserted my printed coupler and the tube. ...Like a glove...

I also painted my NIKE Smoke but swapped the fin colors. I have 3 yellow and one orange. I called the Rocketeer Hotline and they said that it will still fly but I'll just look like a jackass. That tracks... I mean, why change now?


LOC Goblin XXXL


Ziprot Trimmed


The Remnants of What Was


New Hotness


My Nike Smoke Extreme

 

[darrenf]

First fiberglass kit, was quite intimidating to me. Bought it last black friday from Madcow.. 4" Avalanche XL. Decided last weekend, you know, it would be nice to have this for LDRS. LOL Started painting it last night.

 

[Sooner Boomer]

Registered for Airfest.
Cut fins for a new project.
Ordered some parts.

I've got an interesting (to me anyway) project for the next launch. Lots of stuff to build (including electronics!).

 

[Art Upton]

Opted for masking tape for the time being, seems solid enough. If it were larger I'd probably opt for rivets, they seem pretty straightforward. I'm assuming not epoxying the nose cone is more of a "there are better options" kind of thing as opposed to anything critically wrong with that option.


Anyway, got solid fillets on the launch lug, and sanded the nose cone well enough that a coat of primer should do the trick. Fin fillets seem to be fine, so I left them as is. Really all I need to do is work out the best way to attach the shock cord to the eyebolt on the payload section. Instructions say to tie a knot and secure it with a small drop of epoxy, but I've heard that that can weaken the cord, so I'm exploring other options. I think after that it's on to priming and painting.

View attachment 647460

Obtain a "Quick-Link" from your local hardware store, Lowes, or online. Don't over-do the size, do not use a carbineer. Tie a knot to the quick link. Put the quick link on the screw eye. Do not use glue on your knots.

https://www.amazon.com/Qjaiune-Stainless-Locking-Connector-Durable/dp/B0CMXDF8WM

In the Pic below, that is a 3" diameter rocket coupler/ebay , payload, and nose cone.
One screw on the nose cone thru the tube , drilled hole slightly smaller then screw to help start it.
One thru the tube to the coupler tube, again drilled hole slightly smaller then screw to help start it.
The black tape is not holding the nose cone on, it is a band on the payload tube for color looks only and yes it needs re-positioned near that screw to look better.

You will be happy later on that you never glued it, I learned the hard way long ago.

The large screw you see on the left is a "Screw in to Turn On Switch" on the "Switch Band" of the Ebay coupler to arm the altimeter. It is not a fastener; the payload tube ends where the red color ends. The white is a ring of tube around the coupler to form the Switch Band. So I don't even epoxy my couplers to the payload tubes either for decades since my original dismay.

That is a LOC Caliber ISP dressed like a D-Region Tomahawk and flew on a 54mm I-65 to just about 5K.

 

[jqavins]

Go a bit slower, drink more fluids, take more breaks. I push hard for things like that too but I'm not getting any younger either. It's natural to have to slow down a little bit as you get older, whether due to declining ability or due to being less active overall. However you have to be careful that there aren't other issues such as heart issues. My neighbor is younger than I am and more active than I am, but he was hauled out a year ago by paramedics, he was lucky enough to be able to get a few stints and recover. Not everybody is that lucky.

There are plenty of set up tasks that are not as strenuous for us older folks that need to be done at each launch. From setting up wireless controller boxes properly, to cleaning ignitor clips or even organizing flight cards while sitting down.

When Burgess Meredith was 80, he said, and I paraphrase, "I can do anything now that I could when I was 40. It just takes longer to recover." I just needed to wear a sun hat and drink more water, that's all.

 

[KenECoyote]

Got a new tool to help with sanding a long epoxy fillet seam and for the bigger rockets.

View attachment 647159
I also got a set of reciprocating tool sander attachments and sanding pads off Amazon.
View attachment 647160


Both were same day shipped for free with Prime!

I'm hoping these will allow quick work that hand sanding seemed to suck at.

Results...

Before:


After:


Not perfect, but it should do very nicely from a few feet away.

 

[darrenf]

Results...

Before:
View attachment 647557
View attachment 647558
After:
View attachment 647552
View attachment 647554
Not perfect, but it should do very nicely from a few feet away.

Fantastic, really looking forward to seeing this fly. I was pretty upset to see what happened at METRA a couple weeks ago, but man you are on top of it!!!!

 

[KenECoyote]

Fantastic, really looking forward to seeing this fly. I was pretty upset to see what happened at METRA a couple weeks ago, but man you are on top of it!!!!

Thanks Darren! Rick gave me great advice with "give it a day for the shock to set in and then work on fixing it". Sounds simple! Lol

 

[Titan II]

Really all I need to do is work out the best way to attach the shock cord to the eyebolt on the payload section.

A Bowline is all you need. I usually put a wrap of masking tape around the knot.

 

[jqavins]

I did some detailing on my MR4 Mercury capsule...
View attachment 647161
YES I DID IT! I'M KNUTZ! That's the template for the outer window. More later....

Also tested Createx fluorescent over Tamiya white primer... seems to be ok.

Knew you would.

I'm assuming not epoxying the nose cone is more of a "there are better options" kind of thing as opposed to anything critically wrong with that option.

I can't speak for what Art meant, but I'll say that epoxying in the nose cone because you'll never want to put any payload inside is a sure fire way to wind up changing your mind down the road and wanting to put a payload inside. Keep your options open.