What did you do rocket wise today?

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I have kept West Systems far longer than that and have never seen that color.
I believe the issue was that the pump wasn't screwed down tightly/container wasn't sealed in storage. Seems to have cured fine for what I was using it for.
 
More work on the 24mm booster for the Boosted Bertha.
Papered the basswood fins with Avery labels and CA on the edges.
Cut the motor tube, installed the block for E motors, and the blocks at the front to direct the ejecta towards the nozzle of the sustainer motor.
Made and punched the centering rings and mounted them to the motor tube.
24mm Boosted Bertha Booster Parts.jpg
Motor mount drying. Booster should be finished next session.
 
Flying season is pretty much over here, this year has been pretty awesome. I didn't have one rocket or tool back in May. Now I'm on course for my L2 cert flight. Funny thing is I've had these rockets for over a decade, most of them.

But this morning decided to watch some videos, this one is actually pretty good. I'm usually a fan of a few YouTube channels for educational purposes, but this is actually pretty informative for those wanting to learn more.


 
Got a coat of paint on my Pro Series II Panavia and a clone of the AAA Model Aviation Fuels Pennsylvania Crude. Got the motor mount built for the LOC Semper Fi. Pulled out the Estes Space Exploration, model 1710 and will start it tomorrow. No face card, as it looks like the kit came out of a bulk pack. Made for the Boy Scout Space Exploration merit badge.
 
More Boosted Bertha progress.
Double glued the fins on the 24mm booster. (In case it was not clear, the 24mm booster was a scratch build.)
Shaped and papered and sealed the edges with CA on the sustainer stage fins.
Peeled glassine off of the body tube for the fins.
Put first layer of glue on body tube and fins for a double glue of the sustainer.
Built the sustainer stage motor mount (18mm) with modification for the replaceable Kevlar shock cord. The holes in the rings are for a tube to make it easy to change the Kevlar.
Boosted Bertha Upper Parts.jpg
24mm Booster on the left, 18mm booster on the right

<edited to add>
I had no idea that it was nowhere near 2am (normal bedtime) so I went ahead and finished the motor mount and glued it in the sustainer body tube.
Kevlar Change Motor Mount.jpg
This picture shows the rear end of the mount. The tube makes it really easy to use a needle or piece of wire to thread the Kevlar cord into the rocket.
 
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More Boosted Bertha progress.
Double glued the fins on the 24mm booster. (In case it was not clear, the 24mm booster was a scratch build.)
Shaped and papered and sealed the edges with CA on the sustainer stage fins.
Peeled glassine off of the body tube for the fins.
Put first layer of glue on body tube and fins for a double glue of the sustainer.
Built the sustainer stage motor mount (18mm) with modification for the replaceable Kevlar shock cord. The holes in the rings are for a tube to make it easy to change the Kevlar.
View attachment 619676
24mm Booster on the left, 18mm booster on the right
Awesome, I'm at the very start of a 29mm Super Big Bertha build and trying to find a Baby Bertha too, way too many projects going. Anyways, I've wanted a boosted Bertha to add to mine just never had the space for one but do now. Not sure what motor size though. I have them from 18 to 29mm, so maybe a cluster, idk. Very nice though by the way. I like these for some reason I had one as a kid.
 
You used it anyway?!?! Damn...
Yeah, it's still good enough and I did a test batch first to see. Also this is more practice and some would argue bt fiberglassing is more cosmetic (to protect from handling and rough landings) than any significant strengthening.

I have a new gallon of West and corresponding 205 hardener that I will use next time.
 
Started working on the nose of a 7.5 Loc V2 with RNWS (Removable Nose Weight System).
20231212_193604.jpg

The instructions say to epoxy the bulkhead up against the shoulder and the center tube is epoxied to the tip of the nose as well as the bulkhead. I still wanted a stronger connection (since epoxy doesn't stick that well to plastic nose cones even when scuffed up), so I drilled and countersunk 4 holes and added small screws for security.

20231212_223837.jpg
 
I started preparing for Saturdays launch. I charged all the batteries for my electronics. Chute release, altimeters, cameras, and an apogee. Cleaned up my parachute box and another range box. I picked the rockets for the launch. I have a 4" Christmas Candle that I built.20221214_183236[3867].jpg20221211_023859[1633].jpg20231212_225724[3872].jpg It has a 6" Plastic Christmas bulb I found. My Christmas tree rocket and Christmas ornament rocket. It has an 8" sparkly ornament for a nose cone. The weather is supposed to be perfect for this time of year. 38* at 8am and a high of 58* later and more importantly no wind. I have been taking a rocket that Thrust Curve predicts a mile for altitude. I have kept chickening out. I have to put it up sometime. I'll take a couple others too.
 
Flying season is pretty much over here, this year has been pretty awesome. I didn't have one rocket or tool back in May. Now I'm on course for my L2 cert flight. Funny thing is I've had these rockets for over a decade, most of them.

But this morning decided to watch some videos, this one is actually pretty good. I'm usually a fan of a few YouTube channels for educational purposes, but this is actually pretty informative for those wanting to learn more.



Awesome video!
 
But this morning decided to watch some videos, this one is actually pretty good. I'm usually a fan of a few YouTube channels for educational purposes, but this is actually pretty informative for those wanting to learn more.



Nice video, well produced. Thanks for sharing. I'll keep this one in mind next time I'm sending links to people who express interest in rocketry.
 
Went with the Estes nose cone
Good choice. The next time you're in such a situation, 3D printing is an option despite not having a printer. Many people have them, you can get things printed as a paid service, and there are likely people who will print stuff for free plus cost of material on a person to person basis. And there are people who will help you get ready to take the design to a publicly accessible printer, i.e. in a maker space of some sort (my nearest is in a public library).

(Sorry if this is advice already received from others.)
 
More Boosted Bertha progress.
Double glued the fins on the 24mm booster. (In case it was not clear, the 24mm booster was a scratch build.)
Shaped and papered and sealed the edges with CA on the sustainer stage fins.
Peeled glassine off of the body tube for the fins.
Put first layer of glue on body tube and fins for a double glue of the sustainer.
Built the sustainer stage motor mount (18mm) with modification for the replaceable Kevlar shock cord. The holes in the rings are for a tube to make it easy to change the Kevlar.
View attachment 619676
24mm Booster on the left, 18mm booster on the right

<edited to add>
I had no idea that it was nowhere near 2am (normal bedtime) so I went ahead and finished the motor mount and glued it in the sustainer body tube.
View attachment 619682
This picture shows the rear end of the mount. The tube makes it really easy to use a needle or piece of wire to thread the Kevlar cord into the rocket.

Good choice. The next time you're in such a situation, 3D printing is an option despite not having a printer. Many people have them, you can get things printed as a paid service, and there are likely people who will print stuff for free plus cost of material on a person to person basis. And there are people who will help you get ready to take the design to a publicly accessible printer, i.e. in a maker space of some sort (my nearest is in a public library).

(Sorry if this is advice already received from others.)
I checked and don't find any local places to do 3D printing.
 
Dry fit the fins on my LOC Sandhawk 3.1 and was very surprised to find that the fin tabs are 1/8" inch too long, which seems way too far off to be normal variation. Have not seen a LOC kit this far off before. Maybe I'm missing something. Gonna sleep on it and take a look tomorrow.

I welcome any ideas, including how to precisely remove that 1/8" if it comes to that. I know that I could screw that up. Thanks!

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I welcome any ideas, including how to precisely remove that 1/8" if it comes to that. I know that I could screw that up. Thanks!
I would mark a line with a knife or scriber and then sand back to the line, with the sandpaper flat on a bench.

I am sure there are many ways that will work. If you have a nice handsaw and good technique then that could also get you close to what you need, then sand to finish off.
 
If you have a caliper you can measure the gap with the caliper then use the caliper to mark the fins. The caliper will have the center pin sticking out the amount of the gap. You put the end of the caliper against the edge of the fin root, put a knife or sharp pencil up against the end of the pin then drag them both along the root of the tab.
 
Dry fit the fins on my LOC Sandhawk 3.1 and was very surprised to find that the fin tabs are 1/8" inch too long, which seems way too far off to be normal variation. Have not seen a LOC kit this far off before. Maybe I'm missing something. Gonna sleep on it and take a look tomorrow.

I welcome any ideas, including how to precisely remove that 1/8" if it comes to that. I know that I could screw that up. Thanks!

View attachment 619798

View attachment 619800

I would mark as the others noted, stack them up and use a band saw to cut them all in one swoop. Other cutting tools should work too, but with varying effort and speed.
 
I am being encouraged (heavily) to learn to use AI and find ways to apply it professionally, so, I'm throwing anything I can think of at this beast to see what it does and how far it can go. Just a few minutes ago I gave chatGPT4 a photo of a few of my rockets, with no other prompt and it told me what it saw. Then we had brief "conversation" about them. The image I gave it is below, and the exchange follows.

I know this particular example doesn't provide more than we all already know, but I think there is potential. There are very obvious errors with it's perception of names and colors, but it's pretty damn good. At the very least you should see how insanely powerful this technology is, and I'm sure this is barely scratching the surface of the smallest of scratches.

Here's the image I uploaded. The text that immediately follows is chatGPT's unprompted response to the photo, then our "conversation".

20231031_221058.jpg


This photo features a collection of model rockets displayed indoors. There are four rockets standing upright, each with a different color scheme and design:

  • The first rocket on the left is red with a black tip and fins, labeled "KP-II".
  • Next to it, there's an orange rocket with a black nose cone and white fins, featuring a label that appears to be "T-LWL".
  • The third rocket is predominantly white with a black tip, labeled "BITER", and it has an orange and blue design on its fins.
  • The last rocket on the right is purple and white with a black tip, and it's labeled "STAR ORBITER".
Behind the rockets, there's a shelf with various items, including what looks like a framed diploma from "Villanova University", a U.S. Army hat, and other personal or decorative items. The floor has a herringbone-patterned tile. The collection likely represents a hobbyist's passion for rocketry or space.



You

Can you suggest an appropriate rocket motor for each of these rockets?

ChatGPT

ChatGPT

Selecting an appropriate rocket motor for each model depends on several factors, including the rocket's weight, the desired altitude, the recovery system, and safety considerations such as the launch site's size. Typically, model rockets are designed with a specific range of engine sizes in mind, usually indicated by the manufacturer. Here's a general guide on how you might choose:

  1. For the KP-II Rocket (Red with Black Tip): This looks like a medium-sized model, which might be suitable for a B or C class motor for a moderate altitude while maintaining visual tracking and safe recovery.
  2. For the Orange Rocket (Labeled T-LWL): This rocket seems to have a larger airframe which could potentially house a C or D class motor for higher flights, assuming it’s built to handle the additional power.
  3. For the White Rocket (Labeled BITER): Given its size and assuming it's lightweight, a B or C class motor might be appropriate. If it's designed to be more robust, it could potentially handle a D class motor.
  4. For the Purple and White Rocket (Labeled STAR ORBITER): This rocket appears to be the largest of the four and might accommodate D or E class motors, especially if it's designed for high altitude flights.
Always consult the manufacturer’s specifications for motor recommendations before purchasing motors. Moreover, it is important to ensure that you follow the safety guidelines provided by organizations like the National Association of Rocketry (NAR) or Tripoli Rocketry Association, use a suitable launch pad and have clear airspace for the launch. If you’re new to model rocketry, starting with smaller motors (A or B class) is advisable to gain experience before moving to more powerful options.



You

If I gave you the mass of each rocket could you make a better recommendation for rocket motors to be used with each rocket?

ChatGPT

ChatGPT

Yes, knowing the mass of each rocket would definitely help in making a more accurate recommendation for rocket motors. The motor needed for a rocket is based on several factors including the mass of the rocket, the desired altitude, and the recovery system. The thrust of the motor must be sufficient to propel the rocket to a safe flying speed (usually a minimum of 15 meters per second) off the launch rod for stable flight.

Here's a basic idea of how motor classifications work:

  • A, B, C Motors: These are typically used for lightweight rockets, often weighing less than 170 grams (6 ounces). They're good for small fields and beginner flights.
  • D, E Motors: These are for mid-weight rockets, usually between 170 to 850 grams (6 to 30 ounces). They provide higher altitudes and are used in larger fields.
  • F, G Motors: These motors are for heavier rockets or those designed for very high altitudes, and they usually require certification to purchase and use.
If you provide the mass of each rocket and any other specifications you have, I can give you a more tailored recommendation. Additionally, we would need to consider the launch site size and safety code regulations to ensure the motor selection is appropriate for your specific conditions.



You

The KSP-II rocket weighs 20 ounces, the T-LWL rocket weighs 34 ounces, the BITER rocket weighs 40 ounces and the Star Orbiter weighs 10 ounces. Recommend a rocket motor for each based on the weights.

ChatGPT

ChatGPT

The weight of the rocket is a critical factor in determining the appropriate motor. The thrust-to-weight ratio must be sufficient for a safe and stable ascent. The following are generalized motor recommendations based on the weights provided:

  1. KP-II Rocket (20 ounces): For a rocket of this weight, an E motor may be appropriate. If the rocket is designed for it and you have the experience and a large enough launch area, an F motor could also be an option for higher altitude flights.
  2. T-LWL Rocket (34 ounces): A rocket this heavy would likely require at least an F or G motor. The specific choice would depend on the design's capability to handle the motor's power and the desired altitude.
  3. BITER Rocket (40 ounces): This is a heavy rocket and would typically need a G motor. It’s important to ensure the rocket's structural integrity can handle the power and that you’re certified to use such a motor if required.
  4. Star Orbiter (10 ounces): Given its lighter weight, a C or D motor could be suitable for a rocket of this size. E motors could also be an option if the rocket is robust enough and for reaching higher altitudes.
Keep in mind that these recommendations are based on standard practices. The actual motor selection should also take into account the manufacturer's specifications, the rocket's design, and the expected flight profile. Additionally, certain motors require user certification to purchase and use, particularly those above "G" power. Always check with local regulations and the rocket's design capabilities, and ensure you're following safety guidelines as outlined by organizations like the NAR or Tripoli.
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Mind blown.
 
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