XrayLizard
Well-Known Member
That’s a lot of wire !
You may be right, Rich.AFAIK o1d_dude the E-4 is the sole remaining Specialist rank in the US ARMY at least in most MOS's.
I'm in the 10' camp (or 6' or something; my mood changes) and I still spend more time on finishing than construction. I think nearly all of us do.Some people are in the "it's fine if you can't see it from 10 feet away" category, but that's not me. I like to try to make my models look as high-quality as I can figure out how. The look of the rocket is a huge part of my enjoyment of the sport; I spend far more time on the finishing end then any other part of the build process.
Why not mask the gluing area before spraying the tube? You get to paint the tube first and don't have to sand anything off.I thought I would paint the body tube first and then sand the fin attachment area down before gluing them on
Ayup.Gotta screw up to learn.
I still haven't tried the thinned CWF; I don't know what I'm waiting for. I always assumed that for a fin face it would be slopped on then squeegeed off with a hotel key.I use my fingers for most CWF application: slop it on and spread it out. Good for getting a nice smooth coat.
There are many ways to do it. Lately I just favor fingers for CWF work, except when fine control is required.I still haven't tried the thinned CWF; I don't know what I'm waiting for. I always assumed that for a fin face it would be slopped on then squeegeed off with a hotel key.
Why not mask the gluing area before spraying the tube? You get to paint the tube first and don't have to sand anything off.
We've all been there.....
Well now I feel stupid.
I’ve recently been using bondo glazing putty thinned with denatured alcohol exactly the way I use CWF. I think it adheres better to PETG than CWF does.There are many ways to do it. Lately I just favor fingers for CWF work, except when fine control is required.
I’m also greatly enjoying my little 4 oz tub that I’ve pre-thinned, so it’s always ready to go. Plus the little round plastic tub seals better and keeps moisture in much better than the square tubs.
I finished this up today. I have spoken.
Soldered my first Eggtimer WiFi switch. I'll hook up a battery this weekend and see if I got it right or fried it...
Thats unusual, Cris usually gets back really quick.I tried to email them a while back and never got an answer.....
I mentioned in a prior post that I lost the sustainer of the Ternion (a 3 stage, D motor scratch build) a couple weeks ago when it did it's imitation of a cruise missile. It never saw it's maiden 3 stage flight as it went "walkies" on it's first 2 stage test flight. The booster landed within several yards of the pad with minor damage on one fin. So with 2 perfectly good 24mm boosters in hand I contemplated building a new sustainer when a perfectly logical though hit me.
Why build one when I can build two?? So today I put the final touches on the DC Express and the Return to Sender. The black and blue model is the Return to Sender (so named in honor of the lost 3 stager), 24mm booster and sustainer. The red and white DC Express uses the 24mm booster to an 18mm sustainer. Now I just have to decide if I want to do some decal work or leave them as is. I have to admit that I like the cleaner, non-decal look.
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Hard to believe we were that young once upon a time.This shaker is now shammer*-approved.
*Shammer: An Army enlisted specialist who has minimal authority but can make your life miserable if you cross him/her. Wears a rank patch called a “Sham Shield” in E4 through presumably E9 but I’ve never seen one higher than E6. I wore an E4 patch from 7 months in until the “acting jack” sergeant stripes showed up. They don’t hand out hard stripes to two year draftees.
First picture was of me after earning my Sham Shield, The second picture was my “ride” which led to a different assignment...
There are many ways to do it. Lately I just favor fingers for CWF work, except when fine control is required.
I’m also greatly enjoying my little 4 oz tub that I’ve pre-thinned, so it’s always ready to go. Plus the little round plastic tub seals better and keeps moisture in much better than the square tubs.
Cris usually gets back within a day - but sometimes misses emails that got directed to his spam folder. You can try messaging him here, too.
Does either booster fit under the other booster? Your three stage dreams might not be dead!So today I put the final touches on the DC Express and the Return to Sender. The black and blue model is the Return to Sender (so named in honor of the lost 3 stager), 24mm booster and sustainer. The red and white DC Express uses the 24mm booster to an 18mm sustainer. Now I just have to decide if I want to do some decal work or leave them as is. I have to admit that I like the cleaner, non-decal look.
Amusingly (maybe), I was largely a “don’t get my hands dirty” sort of kid and didn’t like finger painting very much... maybe I’m just making up for lost time?
and the solution was what exactly..?Messed with my Amazon speaker stand launch pad and figured out a way of mounting the launch rail(s).
Turns out I was trying to make things too complicated when the solution was quite simple.
Sometimes it is that way.
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