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John Taylor said:
Thanks! I have several projects going at the same time. A 25 year old Estes Impulse rebuild, A new LOC Hi-Tech build, and a new Estes Cherokee build. I will adjust my paint schedule accordingly.
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Note also: plastic parts may require somewhat longer. I've heard two competing explanations. I have not yet had a problem.
 
John Taylor said:
Yeah whats the deal with the time specified on the Rusty rattle cans. It is not reality.
How long do you guys and gals wait till the next application? I wait the 48 hrs and never had a problem until I applied R/O florescent orange over glossy white 48 hrs between coats and got the dreaded wrinkle effect. At first I thought it was the 90 deg. temp. But I waited until 48 hours with cooler temps. and it did it again!
Thanks for the help!
John
Click to expand...

It'll lull you into a false sense of security. I've had many paint jobs where I shot the color the night before, and then decals and clear the next night with no problem. Try it on another model (especially if red or white is involved) and it wrinkles up. I also find that certain colors are more sensitive than others. Particularly, I've had issues with gloss reds and gloss whites.

I finally decided that if it's a model I care about, I'm just going to give it a week or more before I'll risk the clear coat. I've also learned that (for many reasons), you need to be super conservative when you hit with the clear too. Give it a few light dust coats that'll dry fast, and not let the under coat get "wet" enough to be affected by the solvents in the clear. After a couple passes of misting, and once it looks like I've got it fully covered with a (probably pebbly-looking) coat of clear, I'll give it a heavier top coat to even things out and get the glossy look.

This is good practice with clear coat anyway since it's so low-viscosity it'll run or sag if you give it a dirty look. Also, (since it's clear) it can be hard to judge the film depth, so it's really easy to put on too much. I've used that technique "safely" in situations where I needed to shoot the clear due to time constraints, and I'm borderline on cure times. With a 7-10 day cure, you don't need to be quite so delicate.
 
beantownJPL said:
It'll lull you into a false sense of security. I've had many paint jobs where I shot the color the night before, and then decals and clear the next night with no problem. Try it on another model (especially if red or white is involved) and it wrinkles up. I also find that certain colors are more sensitive than others. Particularly, I've had issues with gloss reds and gloss whites.

I finally decided that if it's a model I care about, I'm just going to give it a week or more before I'll risk the clear coat. I've also learned that (for many reasons), you need to be super conservative when you hit with the clear too. Give it a few light dust coats that'll dry fast, and not let the under coat get "wet" enough to be affected by the solvents in the clear. After a couple passes of misting, and once it looks like I've got it fully covered with a (probably pebbly-looking) coat of clear, I'll give it a heavier top coat to even things out and get the glossy look.

This is good practice with clear coat anyway since it's so low-viscosity it'll run or sag if you give it a dirty look. Also, (since it's clear) it can be hard to judge the film depth, so it's really easy to put on too much. I've used that technique "safely" in situations where I needed to shoot the clear due to time constraints, and I'm borderline on cure times. With a 7-10 day cure, you don't need to be quite so delicate.
Click to expand...

Thank you for your response! I really appreciate all the helpful people on this site.
Thanks again,
John
 
Still on my way back from Balls. Brandy-Bruce Sharpe's sister had all of Brandy-Bruce's rocket stuff on the playa, for sale. And there was a HUGE sh*tload of kits and parts and odds/ends, 3 or 4 tables full plus bigger kits leaning against the tables. I picked up two kits (of course I didn't need 'em, I just wanted 'em :D), then had to stop walking by there, way too much temptation... In Cheyenne right now and will stay there today, to visit a former missile base museum.
 
SteveNeill said:
Worked on Franks wonderful Aurora Clipper. Almost done. The Sticker Shock decals are fantastic!
View attachment 394129
Click to expand...

As a former stick yanker, this model is now on my "must build" list. Have you balanced and trimmed it yet? Much trouble getting the CG right? Any significant challenges to installing the radio gear and servos?

PLEASE post a video of your maiden, I want to see this thing go.
 
New Cherokee build.
Starting with the fact the fins are glued to the outside of the tube and are balsa, I fabricated my own out of 1/8" birch plywood with thru the wall design using epoxy.
Next to go was the rubber band and and plastic chute. Replacing with a long piece of elastic and a proper small nylon chute.
Decided also for a mid-line separation to avoid the dreaded zipper.
What else? Not knowing the CP does anyone think I need to add nose weight to offset the heaver tail? Or does anyone happen to know the CP for the new Estes Cherokee? I can't run any simulation program due to poor operating system choices. I plan to purchase a laptop with Windows in the future, too poor now.
Thanks,
John
 
I bid on and won an Estes Cosmic Interceptor on Sunday but I forgot to post it then but I did look at the eBay listing again today :)

There was as second one bundled with another rocket that I bid on and almost won but in the last seconds someone got in a bid and snatched it away :( I was thinking I could use it to build an Interceptor E.

There was and Interceptor E on eBay but it was a little rich for my blood.

-Bob
 
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John Taylor said:
But I waited until 48 hours with cooler temps. and it did it again!
Click to expand...
Fluorescent paint is a different animal from enamel. It will run over anything glossy. Try a flat white primer instead, using LIGHT coats. You will need to do multiple light coats to get full coverage. The white will make the fluo. pop.
This is the result of many failed attempts. Many Bothans died to get this information.
 
beantownJPL said:
As a former stick yanker, this model is now on my "must build" list. Have you balanced and trimmed it yet? Much trouble getting the CG right? Any significant challenges to installing the radio gear and servos?

PLEASE post a video of your maiden, I want to see this thing go.
Click to expand...
Not yet but that's on today's agenda. But so far I have had no trouble building this model and I also ordered the YF-12 from Frank. I started a thread for this model in the boost glider section.
 
John Taylor said:
I believe after further consideration, I will use the white primer on all my builds from now on!
Click to expand...

Personally, I like the Rusto high build sandable primer. It's a fairly light-gray color, goes on super easy, builds up a thick coat fast and sands easily too. In most cases I can fill spirals, body seams and grain lines in two coats ... sanding almost all the way back to surface after each coat. Sometimes I'll use a little CWP filler between primer coats if I've got a deeper defect that needs more fill than the primer can reasonably provide.

If I'm going with a darker top coat, that'll be all I need. If I'm going with a light color, then it'll do a light coat of white primer before color coat.
 
beantownJPL said:
Personally, I like the Rusto high build sandable primer. It's a fairly light-gray color, goes on super easy, builds up a thick coat fast and sands easily too. In most cases I can fill spirals, body seams and grain lines in two coats ... sanding almost all the way back to surface after each coat. Sometimes I'll use a little CWP filler between primer coats if I've got a deeper defect that needs more fill than the primer can reasonably provide.

If I'm going with a darker top coat, that'll be all I need. If I'm going with a light color, then it'll do a light coat of white primer before color coat.
Click to expand...

You are correct. Yes I have always used that high build grey primer, works great. I will follow that scheme as well as the input from everyone else.
Thanks for your reply,
John
 
It's an in-joke. He had the Allis-Chalmers dealership in Moorhead, Iowa. I had quite a few orange rockets and launch equipment from bumming spray paint from him back in the day :3

He also had New-Holland back when it was red and yellow.
 
Doug Holverson said:
It's an in-joke. He had the Allis-Chalmers dealership in Moorhead, Iowa. I had quite a few orange rockets and launch equipment from bumming spray paint from him back in the day :3

He also had New-Holland back when it was red and yellow.
Click to expand...

> furiously googling Allis-Chalmers - "AH HA!"

I now understand the color palate! It's like the Model T ... you can have it in any color you like as long as it's black!

I'm such a city boy :cool:.
 
John Taylor said:
New Cherokee build.
Starting with the fact the fins are glued to the outside of the tube and are balsa, I fabricated my own out of 1/8" birch plywood with thru the wall design using epoxy.
Next to go was the rubber band and and plastic chute. Replacing with a long piece of elastic and a proper small nylon chute.
Decided also for a mid-line separation to avoid the dreaded zipper.
What else? Not knowing the CP does anyone think I need to add nose weight to offset the heaver tail? Or does anyone happen to know the CP for the new Estes Cherokee? I can't run any simulation program due to poor operating system choices. I plan to purchase a laptop with Windows in the future, too poor now.
Thanks,
John
Click to expand...
Got the CP for the new Cherokee E
25.2in. from front. CG 23.02 stability 1.6 cal
 
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jqavins said:
Um, John, 25.2 mm Cp - 23.0 mm Cg = 2.2 mm separation. That's not 1.6 cal unless the body tube diameter is 1.4 mm. Did you mean inches?
Click to expand...
Unless the CG is is in fact at the front of the nose cone then inches would be a pretty good bet. ;)

However: is that CG with an engine installed? That's the number that matters for stability.
 
I was at another unofficial rocket launch. Mostly low power because of the breeze. A buddy had some estate sale A10-0Ts that were prone to CATOs (production code 6A6) so there were a few goofy CHAD stage flights on beater and disposable rockets, a mini spool, a Birdie clone, and a Snitch.
 
jqavins said:
Um, John, 25.2 mm Cp - 23.0 mm Cg = 2.2 mm separation. That's not 1.6 cal unless the body tube diameter is 1.4 mm. Did you mean inches?
Click to expand...
Yes sorry, I of course ment inches. Sorry, I got excited and I'm busy at work, and I have brain damage.
How's that for a list of excuses?
Thanks for waking me up!
 
neil_w said:
Unless the CG is is in fact at the front of the nose cone then inches would be a pretty good bet. ;)

However: is that CG with an engine installed? That's the number that matters for stability.
Click to expand...
Got the info from the guy at Estes who designed it. I was presuming it was with an Estes E motor installed. When I get home I will check the CG on the rocket completely loaded and retext. It will be after 11:00 pm cent. time as I work late.
Thanks for the help. I need to start reading my messages before I send them.
 

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