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Went to the hardware store and bought a can of white primer, some PVC, T-joints, 4-way joints, etc. for various rocket-related projects.
Just ordered one for less than $40 from Amazon. Not real fancy, but will do the job.Well, this was over the span of a few days and is amazingly non-interesting, but here goes:
Went to buy threaded 8-32 nut inserts like you use in wood for my current project and was infuriated when I saw the price. 400-500% 'inflation' just aggravated me ($4.75 for 2 inserts).
Decided to buy on Amazon or similar, as its probably coming from all the same places and it was pretty pricey there too.
Guy mode kicked in (happens to both sexes, but when tools are involved, guy mode is my version) and I instead spent $70 on a RivNut tool with 150 pieces etc., and it arrived at my door on Monday.
It is typical Harbor Freight-like quality, instructions not functional and had to watch a video to figure out how to adjust it, but once I did all the right things, it does seem like a functional tool.
Installed 2 RivNuts for motor retention in the rear centering ring of my current build - literally the first thing accomplished since dry fit 2 weeks ago. DOH!
I won't say for fact that this is the best way, right method or even worth pursuing, but it seems semi-functional if you want to do it. Not at all a recommendation for buying the tool etc., but I do a few non-rocket projects that might find a use in the future, so I justified the spend in my own mind. Not sure it was worth it. We'll see.
Pics at least!!!
Sandy.
If it is the AKKTOL brand, then the instructions on how to adjust the stroke are a bit counterintuitive, IMO. I thought mine was broken, but after watching a youtube video of someone explaining how to set it, I figured it out. Once you see how it works, it is a simplified version of the unit they copied (most likely), but it seems like a functional method.Just ordered one for less than $40 from Amazon. Not real fancy, but will do the job.
Muzata brand. Video seems pretty straightforward.If it is the AKKTOL brand, then the instructions on how to adjust the stroke are a bit counterintuitive, IMO. I thought mine was broken, but after watching a youtube video of someone explaining how to set it, I figured it out. Once you see how it works, it is a simplified version of the unit they copied (most likely), but it seems like a functional method.
Sandy.
Ah. That is a different style than mine. Mine looks more like a bolt cutter mechanism than a rivet gun. I wanted a variety of sizes and wanted imperial inserts and the one I got had those. I bet the style you got will be great for smaller inserts like we would use in rocketry. The 8mm test I did (as I wanted to figure out the tool before ruining inserts I might want to use) took a good bit of squeezing force!Muzata brand. Video seems pretty straightforward.
When the primer dried it started to look like charred wood.
Heada: Try an Internet search for spray enamel X34087. It is the same olive drab color the Army used on the actual missiles. I found some on EBay.I went to Lowes to get some gardening sheers to prune back my raspberry and blackberry bushes. While there I stumbled upon a can of "matte spanish moss" by Krylon which is the closest to matte Army green I've ever seen. I have a 2.6" Madcow Honest John that has been waiting for paint for almost a year. It'll work great on an Estes SA-2061 Sasha too. Now I just have to wait 3 months for the humidity to drop below 80%
I spent several hours the last two days sanding the primer off of the upscale Big Bertha. I used a black automotive primer. Never again. When the primer dried it started to look like charred wood. I had to sand down to the paper on most of the rocket. It doesn't look like I'll be able to re-prime tonight. It is still 82 degrees at 11:42pm and a horrible 45% humidity.
Krylon has a line of camouflage spray paint, about six colours, ultra flat.I went to Lowes to get some gardening sheers to prune back my raspberry and blackberry bushes. While there I stumbled upon a can of "matte spanish moss" by Krylon which is the closest to matte Army green I've ever seen. I have a 2.6" Madcow Honest John that has been waiting for paint for almost a year. It'll work great on an Estes SA-2061 Sasha too. Now I just have to wait 3 months for the humidity to drop below 80%
Oh, no! Glue thread, glue thread! Back, back, oh foul and vile thing!Glued the motor mount into the Skylab Saturn body tube. To avoid the problem with white glue causing divots in the thin body tube, I used epoxy, which doesn't soak up moisture nor shrink significantly.
The same epoxy, or as a separate, earlier step. I guess that could have been done earlier with wood glue.I rubbed glue into a length of shroud line and applied it to the edge of each centering ring. That gave a uniform increase in size.
The shroud line was attached with TBII and allowed to dry before installing the motor mount.Oh, no! Glue thread, glue thread! Back, back, oh foul and vile thing!
No, actually that makes sense.The same epoxy, or as a separate, earlier step. I guess that could have been done earlier with wood glue.
Looking at your list of Bertha's, there seems to be an omission... No mini Bertha ( it is a mini brute).Unpacked my recently arrived SBR 4" Thor kit....very excited to get started on it
Started on my Super Big Bertha to complete the Big Bertha family - Baby Bertha, Big Bertha, Boosted Bertha and soon, Super Big Bertha
Rusto Automotive primer black.What brand was the herpes primer? Might save one of us a trip to the Dr.
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