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LOL!!! I should have said where is't thou STL! :)
I have a variety of Altimeters. Eggtimers, Stratologgers, RRC mini. Proton. ... the fun never ends!
I intend to make an adaptor for very altimeter made.
 
Needed a short piece of brick molding to fix a rotten piece of wood on the ground by the garage... Didn't want to buy 8 feet... Had to scale it a bit after printing and re-do it as the stuff at home depot is not the same as the 60 year old trim on the house... But it works, selling the house anyway, don't care if it doesn't last. It's PLA+ but should be ok until next June's heat...

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Needed a short piece of brick molding to fix a rotten piece of wood on the ground by the garage... Didn't want to buy 8 feet... Had to scale it a bit after printing and re-do it as the stuff at home depot is not the same as the 60 year old trim on the house... But it works, selling the house anyway, don't care if it doesn't last. It's PLA+ but should be ok until next June's heat...

View attachment 610495
Very nice. Next time I put down trim, I am not curing any more pieces. I am 3d printing the small pieces.
 
I have some fretwork around my front verandah that I cut out some rotten wood from. I have been contemplating making an ABS replacement for it. It will be a lot easier than cutting wood.
ABS or PVC might be a great choice. They will not rot and fi painted, will not fall the damage from UV light.
 
Needed a short piece of brick molding to fix a rotten piece of wood on the ground by the garage... Didn't want to buy 8 feet... Had to scale it a bit after printing and re-do it as the stuff at home depot is not the same as the 60 year old trim on the house... But it works, selling the house anyway, don't care if it doesn't last. It's PLA+ but should be ok until next June's heat...
That's a pretty cool idea. Tweak it a bit and maybe use ABS and that part will last a long time. Especially if painted to match the house.

I'm definitely going to keep that use in mind.
 
Not rocketry related but hobby/toy related. My grandkids are into Brio wooden trains lately. I found a flexible version of Brio track on Thingiverse. It was ok, but I decided to re-CAD it and make it a little better looking, more flexible, and better fitting. Here are some pics of my test pieces. I have brown filament on the way to print out a bunch of them. I've attached the STLs in case any Brio fans want to play with them. One is 250mm long and the other is 280mm long. The shorter one fits across on my P1P and the longer one fits diagonally.

Randy

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Inquiring minds want to know - what filament material did you use for those fins, and what brand/color?

They were printed in PLA using translucent red and yellow filament. Brand is called Kaisertech, only available in Europe.
 
Don'
Don't have a build thread, and this wasn't printed today, but it was printed and did get to fly it yesterday! It went up on a E30-7 and was set for 200' deployment with the JollyLogic Chute Release on a 30" parachute.

PXL_20231022_172317458.jpg

Already onto version 2 with a few tweaks. But it flew great! Quickie edit to cut out the unncessary fluff... and while it landed just beyond the bush line, it was about 10' deep in the weeds.

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Not the best video, and I some how had the microphone on mute... and needed to have zoomed in, oh well. Nonetheless great flight, went up, came down on a JollyLogic Chute Release.

As it was mid 50s, I did have to add a bit of tape the nose cone shoulder for a better fit.
 
I didn't get the video, forgot to press record. Nonetheless, now that I did a much better job of packing the parachute, it performed flawlessly on the E30-7 with a JollyLogic Chute Release at 200' on a 30" parachute.

PXL_20231022_165338629.jpg
 
Can someone print a 1/4 or 3/16 launch lug that SNAPS over a 1010 rail button? Assume of course there are two rail buttons so that the lugs rotate and line up. Know what I mean? They would be open at the bottom, but JUST the right size to 'snap' over the 1010 button. Yes they would pivot. But if there are two buttons, the rod will line them up. Also does anyone sell standoffs for launch lugs?
 
Printed a 133.4% upscaled Aerobee from: Thingivese - Aerobee in ABS. Upscale fits a 24mm E9 perfectly!

Anyone have any hints on how to prevent sharp nose cone tips from getting a little globby?

A little sanding, and it will be passible, but even with a 2s min layer time the top 1/2" or so of the tip gets a little ugly.

Aerobee-hi.jpg
 
Referencing my post last Tuesday, I made up the weight system for the nose cones.

View attachment 608533

The 1/4-inch all-thread goes almost to the top. The weight is placed so that it presses up against the inside of the nose cone without pushing out. This stabilizes everything once it's screwed it. I gave it a pretty good shake and no rattling.

I designed 3 different weights: 15g, 60g, 120g.
I have printed the first two and they actually came out to 13g and 50g. I still need to print the 120g to find out its actual weight.

I weighed out all the comps:
  • 247.7g -- 4-in Mega Red Max (with the angled section removed AND the modified ebay sleeve epoxied... and some paint/decals
  • 197.8g -- Ebay
  • 5.4g -- 2x 1/4-in nuts
  • 23.3g -- Eyebolt, washer, nut
  • 60.0g -- ~315mm of 1/4-in all-thread
  • 50.0g -- Counter-weight
With a grand total of 584.2g.

Since the section I cut off of the shoulder and the threaded sleeve are approximately the same size, I will consider them as such. So this system added (minus the nose cone) 286.5g. This was enough to pull my Mega from a CAL of 0 to 1.187.

I can live with that.
Which nose cone is that?
 
Is that a joke or are you actually building a rocket using them?

No joke. should fly at MDRA ESL 296 If I can get a few hours this week to finish it. I had to plastic weld the spool 'fins' to ensure they didn't fly off.
I'm a fan of spool rockets. Lets me test big motors and not walk very far :>

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A sneak peek at a new 1/21 scale model of the Diamant A in development. So far comes in at 35.25" tall, 2.6" diameter first stage, and 6oz dry weight. Most likely will fly on D-F 24mm motors.
 

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