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DRAGON64

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This weekend I built my last two Semroc Rocket Racks:

rocket-rack-sm.jpg


So I went out on Thingiverse to see what was available to print, and I found these nifty and easy to print stands:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2264131

So far today I have printed the 24mm version, and am working on a second, then I will get busy on some 18mm stands. My rockets will thank me, as they have been laying on their fins for the last 10 - 12 years...
 

cwbullet

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My printer is sitting dormant for the weekend.
 

DRAGON64

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Yesterday I printed three parts for my BT-60 QU8K extreme downscale project. The prints turned out great! I still have a couple more parts to design for the project, and I hope to have the whole project ready to assemble by next weekend.
 

Ben Martin

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Printing parts for my 3in diameter rocket that uses a fincan that I designed and cwbullet printed.
 

memcbride

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I’m printing multi-color using the Palette 2 Pro by Mosaic Manufacturing with a Prusa i3 MK3. It’s the second of the test prints as I calibrate the settings.
IMG_1254.jpg
IMG_1265.jpg
 

FMarvinS

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I recently printed a 4 to 3 inch transition for a rocket build in progress. Currently, I'm working on a "through the wall" camera shroud for the mobius so that only the lens passes through the booster tube wall.

Fred, L2
ICBM, Camden, S.C.
KG4YGP
 

DRAGON64

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Nice work with the multicolor print. Right now all I can concentrate on is a single color... I'll let Rustoleum and Krylon define the rest.
 

cwbullet

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Can you show more pics of your AV Bay?
 

cwbullet

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Very nice. You should enter that in our next design contest.
 

FMarvinS

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cwbullet

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Gleikyle,

Nice job! Did you print in PLA, PETG or ABS? Curious as per heat due to drag when doing high velocity flights. I usually print in PETG-since it is more robust and heat tolerant than PLA.

Fred
It was CF PLA.
 

gleikyle

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It was CF PLA.
It was Proto-Pasta High Temp Carbon Fiber PLA. Sanded smooth and covered with Aerospace Epon Epikure Epoxy. Fins are very stiff and strong with a nice shiny finish. I can hold the whole rocket by a fin horizontal and it holds up the weight of the rocket just fine. Rocket was build around an RMS G76- Green Mojave in mind. So I needed them rather robust for lift of. Don't remember the fill % off hand, wanna say 80% and they were 2 grams lighter then normal pla.
HTP21705-CF.MAIN_grande.jpeg
 

Lawndart

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This weekend I built my last two Semroc Rocket Racks:

View attachment 372143

So I went out on Thingiverse to see what was available to print, and I found these nifty and easy to print stands:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2264131

So far today I have printed the 24mm version, and am working on a second, then I will get busy on some 18mm stands. My rockets will thank me, as they have been laying on their fins for the last 10 - 12 years...
What are your slicer settings? I’m trying to print the 18mm version and not having much success once it starts on the holes.
 

FMarvinS

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Gleikyle-thanks for the clarification. Let us know how your prints hold up to over mach 1 flights.

Fred
 

gleikyle

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Gleikyle-thanks for the clarification. Let us know how your prints hold up to over mach 1 flights.

Fred
I'm sure the Pit Vipers not capable of super Sonic flights but for a future project, challenge accepted!
IMG_20180504_135540.jpeg
 

Ben Martin

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I could see body tube diameter span 3D printed fins working at mach 1+. The PETG fins I printed with carbon fiber rods in them could certainly survive mach 1+ if they were on a compatable airframe.
 

gleikyle

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I could see body tube diameter span 3D printed fins working at mach 1+. The PETG fins I printed with carbon fiber rods in them could certainly survive mach 1+ if they were on a compatable airframe.
I've never worked with PETG, how is it printing compared to PLA? Does it require higher nozzle temps, like nylon? Or any other special printing techniques you would recommend. Also howd you incorporate the carbon fiber rods into the PETG filament once printed? Ideal carbon fiber printing would be done with a continuous carbon fiber filament printer but those are very exspesive. So the Proto Pasta composite carbon filament works for now. Thanks for your help, I'm working on designing a super sonic rocket for my I460 sugar rocket motors and keeping everything 3D printed will definitely help keep testing and prototyping at an affordable level.
 

DRAGON64

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What are your slicer settings? I’m trying to print the 18mm version and not having much success once it starts on the holes.
I use CURA, here is what I have set for PLA:

Print Setup
Prifile: Draft - 2.0mm

Shell:
Wall Line Count - 3
Top Layers - 3
Bottom Layers - 3
Top/Bottom Pattern - Concentric
Initial Layer - Concentric

Infill:
Infill Density - 33%
Infill Pattern - Lines (better coverage of dead space)

Material: (Based on Hatch PLA)
Default Print Temperature - 200 degree C
Default Build Plate Temperature - 60 degree C
Flow - 100%
Enable Retraction [checked]
Retract at layer change [checked]
Retraction Disrance - 5mm
Retraction Speed - 40mm/s

Speed:** See Note Below**
Print Speed Tuned at printer - 33mm/s
Infill Speed - 33mm/s
Outer Wall Speed - 16.5mm/s

Travel:
Combing Mode - OFF

Cooling:
Fan Speed - 100%
Initial Fan Speed - 0%
Regular Fan Speed at Layer - 2

Support: None

Build Plate Adhesion:
Type - Skirt
Skirt Libe Count - 4
Skirt Dustance - 5mm

**Note: In CURA I set the actual speed to 60mm/s with a hald speed of 30mm/s. However, on my CR-10S printer I tune the speed to a lower 33mm/s, but no higher than 39mm/s

My build plate is a Polypropylene plate from Tiny Machines. The plate has an even coat of Aqua Net (uncented) hair spray for adhesion. The plate is touched up between prints with Aqua Net, just enough to cover the footprint of the previous print.

The only trouble I am having with the Rocket Stands is printing the over hang. It tends toslouch a little on one side. Otherwise the stands print nicely.
 

DRAGON64

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Ben Martin

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I've never worked with PETG, how is it printing compared to PLA? Does it require higher nozzle temps, like nylon? Or any other special printing techniques you would recommend. Also howd you incorporate the carbon fiber rods into the PETG filament once printed? Ideal carbon fiber printing would be done with a continuous carbon fiber filament printer but those are very exspesive. So the Proto Pasta composite carbon filament works for now. Thanks for your help, I'm working on designing a super sonic rocket for my I460 sugar rocket motors and keeping everything 3D printed will definitely help keep testing and prototyping at an affordable level.
PETG is as easy to print as PLA with a strength comparable to ABS, all without the toxic fumes. It is very durable and has a relatively high heat resistance for plastic. My recent L2 scratch build was completely printed from PETG except for the tubes and recovery system. For the fins I designed them with slots for carbon fiber rods to be epoxied into them. It resulted in a very stiff and durable fin. The fins have easily withstood a J250W and two I180Ws.

Esun PETG prints at 250C with no fan at 40-60mm/s for excellent layer adhesion. It prints beautifully and I have not had any issues with it.
IMG_20190121_213405.jpeg
 

Ben Martin

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I print my PETG at 250C with the bed at 60C. I use blue tape so I never have to worry about adhesion even on a low surface area print. The fins I printed warped due to me not setting the head low enough, that has been fixed now.
 

AndrewW

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I just got into 3D printing a few weeks ago and am absolutely fascinated by the whole process from design to print. After some trial and error I have printed the first thing I have designed myself, a altimeter sled for two Eggtimer Quantums to fit a 54mm or larger alt bay.

IMG_8231.jpg
 
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