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I'm in the process of printing a 24mm motor retainer.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4058299
I printed the inside one first using PTEG with a bed temp of 70 C and a nozzle temp of 225 C. I am using the latest version of Cura as my slicer. 100% infill.

I ended up with some stringing that cleaned up OK but I was surprised to see it as it showed my that the print head would jump from one side to the other instead of just doing a circle. Is there a setting in Cura that would print the retainer in a circular motion instead of jumping from side to side? Thanks.
 
I've wondered why it prints that way too. I've tried concentric infill, 5-10 perimeters... but it still strings inside. Anyone else know a better way to print without the head moving inside the circle causing stringing?
 
Not rocketry, but this finished up last night. Put it on whatever was the best quality setting on the Creality slicer. PETG. 160x160mm.

Bonus points if you can tell where this is.

IMG_20230419_071420633_HDR.jpgIMG_20230419_071425030.jpgIMG_20230419_071436217_HDR.jpgIMG_20230419_071442637_HDR.jpg
 
I'm in the process of printing a 24mm motor retainer.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4058299
I printed the inside one first using PTEG with a bed temp of 70 C and a nozzle temp of 225 C. I am using the latest version of Cura as my slicer. 100% infill.

I ended up with some stringing that cleaned up OK but I was surprised to see it as it showed my that the print head would jump from one side to the other instead of just doing a circle. Is there a setting in Cura that would print the retainer in a circular motion instead of jumping from side to side? Thanks.
Stringing is usually a retraction setting issue. Petg is particularly stringy. Having said that, I also found this. which is blobing. I'm uncertain if retraction occurs during these "Print Save" moments. So could be part of it too.
Norm
 
The upper guide on my band saw broke. We'll see how my replacement design does. Just need to tap the holes. Took about five minutes to make it in CAD and then a couple hours to print it.
 

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BT-20 based rocket for 18mm motors. Comes in at 1.96oz which surprised me, but once I got the slicing to give me a single wall. Not the best pic, but still. Has built shock chord mount inside the main tube. And of course molded in rail guide.

I still have some issues with the printing where the tip of the root edge of the fin meets the body; thinking using some of the BL's slicer (aka Prusa) variable height layer to help with it. But overall thought it turned out decent - enough to go put a motor in it and send it skyward.

Oh printed in eSun PLA Pro Plus.... if it works, etc, etc. probably switch to using different colored PETG, maybe even some of the colored translucent.

PXL_20230512_125436801.jpg


Screenshot 2023-05-12 111322.png
 
Was going to go try RocketScientistAustralia's fin can generator to see about generating some different fin cans for it at some point.
 
I'm printing up a fleet of model Zed spaceships for Memorial Day tributes for family and John Carroll. It's also sort of bringing things full circle because it's based on a spaceship that I whipped up nearly 50 years ago as a freshman in high school back in '75-6. Now I have something nifty that I can hold and feel. It's a wee bit inspired by the X-24 Bug with the canopy by the vacuum-fromed ones on the later Centuri Space Shuttles. There may have been some cryptomnesia concerning a certain Studebaker that looks like a spaceship to overly excitable boys.....zeds.jpg
 
I'm printing up a fleet of model Zed spaceships for Memorial Day tributes for family and John Carroll. It's also sort of bringing things full circle because it's based on a spaceship that I whipped up nearly 50 years ago as a freshman in high school back in '75-6. Now I have something nifty that I can hold and feel. It's a wee bit inspired by the X-24 Bug with the canopy by the vacuum-fromed ones on the later Centuri Space Shuttles. There may have been some cryptomnesia concerning a certain Studebaker that looks like a spaceship to overly excitable boys.....

How do they fly?! :D
 
what_did_I_print_today_20230512.jpg

Well, let's see. The printer has been running non-stop for a week now. Lots of Mother's Day prints but these are the rocket-related ones:
  • 3" Goblin Nosecone ::It's actually a Red Max but don't tell anyone::
  • 3" Goblin Fin Sleeve
  • 3" Goblin Fin 2x (one shown)
  • 3 centering rings for 38mm MMT
  • Motor retainer and ring for previous MMT
  • Runcam2 mount (draft mode)
  • 3 "Phil A. Ment" Astronauts minis (googlie eyes were extra)
  • The BetaMax, an Alpha-inspired rocket. It contains a 3D Printed fin can, motor retainer, baffle, nose cone, and launch lug. The only parts that aren't from the printer are the 24mm body tube and the 18mm motor sleeve to reduce heat damage.
I keep asking myself, How did I exist all this time without a 3D printer... hmmm, oh well... never look back.

Have a great weekend everyone.
 
  • The only parts that aren't from the printer are the 24mm body tube and the 18mm motor sleeve to reduce heat damage.

I decided not to use a motor sleeve in the LPR, not sure that it will cause that much warping. We'll see! Certainly my bigger rockets that have 3D printed mountings use a cardboard motor sleeve. So if it ends up needing one for LRP, we'll just adjust the CAD parameters and reprint! ;)
 
A few different fin designs with just some parameter changes. Can go up to X fins, but on Bt-20 size 7 seems to be the upper limit. I did notice I have to do some more maths to deal with the launch lug placement since on fin counts that aren't 4, its off center.

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Screenshot 2023-05-13 090706.png
 
I decided not to use a motor sleeve in the LPR, not sure that it will cause that much warping. We'll see! Certainly my bigger rockets that have 3D printed mountings use a cardboard motor sleeve. So if it ends up needing one for LRP, we'll just adjust the CAD parameters and reprint! ;)
My first test showed significant heat warping even with PLA +. I switched to using a thin sleeve and that took care of that problem. I love this design you have going.
 
My first test showed significant heat warping even with PLA +. I switched to using a thin sleeve and that took care of that problem. I love this design you have going.

So has a successful launch. Worked great. However... I'm not sure it was significant, but certainly heat effected thing that a new motor does not slide in.

While a sleeve should resolve it, was think of printing slightly bigger tube and since it's friction fit already using masking tape top and bottom to take up slack. Then there is also an air gap there too.
 
Ordered a new hotend cooling fan and silicone hotend socks for my Creality CR-10v2. After 3 years and lots of use the 40mm heatbreak cooler was making ugly noises. Its a $4.50 part and its soon to be on its way.
 
I am printing my next build. This one is an old one but a good one. I will post photos today.
 
Put the new heatbreak cooling fan on my CR-10v2, then ran a print and had some pretty poor extrusion issues. This morning I removed the Capricon bowden tube from the hotend as was going to clean the hotend to make sure there wasn't any buildup that might be causing a problem, instead I found that the tube about a half inch from where it butts up the nozzle was thin enough that when I tried to pull it out it broke off inside the heat break. It was easy enough to remove once the nozzle was off (just used a bamboo skewer to push it out), while I had everything apart I checked the inside of the heat break, and the PTC fitting (making sure none of the prongs had broken off) so I could rule out that it wasn't holding the tubing securely. Put everything back together and the printer is good as new. So far besides nozzles there have been very few parts I have had to replace in the last 3 years. I have less than $30 in parts (other than nozzles). Now its back to printing parts for my sons Mousetrap Dragster and Mousetrap Distance cars.
 
Currently @11:36PM waiting on a test BT-20 ogive NC from my new Volelab Proxima 6, 4K SLA printer. The test deer came out awesome so I tried a nose cone that I designed and have been using. We got 30 mins till it gets cleaned and hardened. Fingers crossed.
 

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