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Charles_McG

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1/107 scale Crew Dragon parts. eRockets was out of BT58, so I’m building around ST13. Using the Apogee article as a base.
I printed the 4 landing legs at once, vertical and upside down. I placed them about 0.2mm away from a 0.8mm wall thickness cylinder to act as support.
It looks like I don’t have my retraction dialed in. But they cleaned up okay.
EA4DBBAA-EFE6-4573-A545-3482BBBB414A.jpeg
6C477A05-E763-4336-B6CA-DCA4A10E3840.jpeg
 

Leo

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Working on designing a Gemini capsule for BT-60 based body tubes.

First printed prototype. Needs lots more detail.....
Gemini_Capsule_Proto_1.jpg
 

PhlAsh

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Bt-60 HoJo fins with cant and bevels (units are inches - longest dim should be 3.22622")
 

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cwbullet

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Leo

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More details today. Still some additions to come. It will have similarities to the Estes version.
Gemini_Capsule_Proto_2.jpg
 

cwbullet

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Another day of printing success started wrong.

IMG_0456.jpeg
My printer has some gastronomical distress. This is Gold eSun ABS. It is nto the problem from the filament. That printing beauty broke my thermister wire and I had a thermal runaway. If your printer does not have this protection (Most Ender 3s) beware. This shutdown was the only thing betweenn me and a fire.

IMG_0455.jpeg

I also had another interesting print result with Purple Esun PETG. My next print was successful and most of the rail buttons were salvaged.

IMG_0454.jpeg
My last print was with Yellow eSun ABS.

I do nto want to discourage you from trying these filaments. I have had great success with them since. I got a little too cocky and did not have my Z set perfect. It led to failures 2 and 3. The first was an old thermistor and the wire broke.
 

OverTheTop

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Sounds like there needs to be a little bit of extra hardware (a comparator) to compare the temperature voltage reported back is within a sensible range. Shut down the heaters if it is outside the expected range. A resetable thermal fuse on the bed is probably a much simpler implementation. For the number of times it is likely to happen you could also put a non-resetable thermal fuse on the bed. It would be a minor inconvenience to change it in the event of failure.
Something like this:
 

rharshberger

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First prototype print of my BT50 coupler size dual deployment altimeter bay. The altimeter is a Eggtimer Quark and the battery a Turnigy NanoTech 180mah 2s Lipo, now I need to buy another Quark to build specifically for this rocket as the power wires need to come off the back side of the board and there will be no switch on the alt beyond twist and tape. This is just the first test with no end caps, the bay also will not have any allthread rods passing through it, instead the bulkheads will be screwed on and a kevlar loop will take tension from one end of the bay to the other during ejection events (still working on that thought process). Still lots of bits to cut out to allow wire passages, screws and two little bitty charge wells (the rocket is cardboard so containing the charge is better than risking blowing the side out of the airframe). If the coupler was longer a Turnigy 300mah 2s would fit, not that anything more than a 180mah is really needed for this application, to save space wire wrap posts are used instead of terminal blocks for the ejection lighters. All thicknesses I am trying to keep between .05" and .10" as much as possible, weight really isn't an issue but strength might be, so far afaik given how lightweight the rocket will be all parts should easily withstand a hard deployment event probably better than the airframe will.
20200628_184202.jpg 20200628_184420.jpg
 

Leo

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My BT-60 version of the Gemini Capsule based on the Estes version with a bit more detail added is complete.

Gemini_Capsule_Leo_N.jpg
 
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beeblebrox

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Another day of printing success started wrong.

View attachment 422278
My printer has some gastronomical distress. This is Gold eSun ABS. It is nto the problem from the filament. That printing beauty broke my thermister wire and I had a thermal runaway. If your printer does not have this protection (Most Ender 3s) beware. This shutdown was the only thing betweenn me and a fire.

View attachment 422279

I also had another interesting print result with Purple Esun PETG. My next print was successful and most of the rail buttons were salvaged.

View attachment 422280
My last print was with Yellow eSun ABS.

I do nto want to discourage you from trying these filaments. I have had great success with them since. I got a little too cocky and did not have my Z set perfect. It led to failures 2 and 3. The first was an old thermistor and the wire broke.
That is the most realistic 3dprinted turd I have ever seen...lol
 

_kestrel_

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Needed to remove the metal tip of a Mach 1 nose cone and didn't have a long enough screwdriver. Modeled in CAD and a few hours later the job was done.


IMG_20200629_163957077.jpg
IMG_20200629_164312706.jpg
 

John Kemker

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Hey, I'd like a copy of the STL. I can think of LOTS of uses for that!
 

Leo

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Lets go a step further and print a 3 part version with the appropriate colors to match the real Gemini capsule:
Gemini_Capsule_3_Part_Leo_N.jpg


3D printers are just wonderful 🕺
 

cwbullet

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Lets go a step further and print a 3 part version with the appropriate colors to match the real Gemini capsule:


3D printers are just wonderful 🕺
Yes they are!
 

curtisheisey

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I designed an altimeter sled for 4in fiberglass. It has build in mounting standoffs for Marsa33, quantum and Telemetrum. I use one Lab rat triple pull switche. Ias removable boxes for holding batteries. PETG 30% infil. Kind hard to see the details in the photos because of the black filament. And I still need to do some wire management.


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Greg Furtman

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I ran across this article about drying filament today. Will this work?

 

John Kemker

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I'm just storing mine in somewhat airtight tubs with dessicant pods in with them.
 

_kestrel_

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Today I printed a tool to make sure that centering rings are square to the motor mount tube while assembling them. I have these printed for multiple mmt sizes. It seems like every manufacturer has slightly different dimensions on their tubing. This one is for a 38mm Mach 1 mmt. I know my printer well enough that if I size the bore 0.3mm larger than the measured tubing diameter it will slide on with no slop.

38mm_align_1.jpg
38mm_align_2.jpg
 

Greg Furtman

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I had an old food dehydrator laying around (it's amazing how much stuff one collects over the years) and while I was searching for it I discovered I also had a large diameter & deep kind of clear plastic bowl. So I made a filament dryer. Right now I'm drying a spool of PLA but when I'm finished I'll take some pics & post them.

As soon as the drying is finished ( 118F for 8 hours) I'll put the roll of filament into a sealed plastic cereal container with some desiccant.

Also, my Ender 3 V2 has shipped & I should see it next midweek.
 
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