Are mini wheats the new "flame proof wadding?"
3D Printing What Are You Printing Today?
- Thread starter DRAGON64
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LOL, I need something to keep the creative juices flowing
Finished printing the Pegasus. Now I need to attach motor mount and parachute.
Charles_McG
Ciderwright
What scale?
It is the original scale from Estes. I modeled the original one in SolidWorks. I then added fillets and merged the parts to create something I could print. It's still using an 18mm motor mount, which could be under powered due to the additional weight.
Charles_McG
Ciderwright
Nifty. Would the QJet D be thrusty enough?
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Thrusty..hehe...he said thrusty...hehehe
kevindcornwell
Magma Mountain Rocketry
Hey Fred, I'd love to see that and maybe get a few from you if it works. I tried from Fyre, but have never received anything.
kevindcornwell
Magma Mountain Rocketry
I have decided that I want to do some prototyping of non-existent parts. I can't spring for my own SLA printer (Formlabs) so I'm wondering if anyone has an SLA and would be willing to make some parts for me? I'm willing to pay something reasonable. I need both clear, and black or white parts. Here's just one example of what I want to prototype (4" body tube, 29mm MMT). PM me if you can. Thanks.
My first roll of ABS, and a few test parts for the next printer build. It took a ridiculous number of test prints to get ABS dialed in, but dang if don't print some pretty parts once you get it.
slohand
Well-Known Member
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I hadnt thought of the QJet's... I'll have to give it a try. Thanks!
beeblebrox
8 C6-0, 12 D11-9, 20 D20-0, 20 E5-0, 3 Cinerocs
Discovered a small design flaw with the Eggtimer TRS... It is slightly too wide to fit a BT-55 or ST-13 tube. But it fits perfectly in a Cesaroni reload packing tube... Now need to make sled and transition to ST-13 tube...
Charles_McG
Ciderwright
Battery adapter for my Aerotech launch controller.
Continuity check doesn’t light an ematch, which I wondered about, given the high voltage.
Continuity check doesn’t light an ematch, which I wondered about, given the high voltage.
BDB
Absent Minded Professor
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I love it! I have way too many of those same batteries laying around from old weed whackers. (I eventually gave up on the cheap things and bought a gas-powered Husqvarna.)
beeblebrox
8 C6-0, 12 D11-9, 20 D20-0, 20 E5-0, 3 Cinerocs
Those Piezo buzzers are very low current...they are continuity safe even on flashbulbs...
Atomic Filament Glow in the Dark PETG and the Prusa mini are awesome.
Made one of these for each son. 4" tall, about 12h at 20% infill, 0.25 layer height.
Made one of these for each son. 4" tall, about 12h at 20% infill, 0.25 layer height.
That is really great. One of the few surviving rockets from my youth is a mini-Pegasus. I have an AT 18mm motor case with some D reloads that I bet would be perfect. If you’re willing to share your hard work I’d greatly appreciate it. I would love to have one I 3D printed.
Thanks for the post,
Tony
caveduck
semi old rocketeer
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Did a batch of Jack Hydrazine designed (on Thingiverse) conformal launch lugs yesterday in PETG, turned to stand on end with supports at the base so the print layers would be perpendicular to the thin web. They came out really well and seem plenty strong.
rharshberger
Well-Known Member
I did some of his conformal rail buttons in petg printed normal orientation since they have screws through them and other than one getting ripped off the airframe they functioned beautifully.
rharshberger
Well-Known Member
It was a lightweight 3" PSII cardboard frame, and I think the centering broke it off when it was broken out because I used too short of shock cord by mistake.
evildave42
Active Member
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Been working on this for a little bit, it is Wernher von Braun's Ferry Rocket from Disney's Tommorowland. With stand it is 16.5 inches tall.
It started as a remix of someone else's design from Tingiverse but after improving it's accuracy and making it much easier to print I couldn't stop and made a bunch of optional parts and a launch pad/stand for it.
I still have to test-print a few of the optional parts but once I'm satisfied I will be posting it on my Thingiverse account here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/Evildave/designs
It started as a remix of someone else's design from Tingiverse but after improving it's accuracy and making it much easier to print I couldn't stop and made a bunch of optional parts and a launch pad/stand for it.
I still have to test-print a few of the optional parts but once I'm satisfied I will be posting it on my Thingiverse account here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/Evildave/designs
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vcp
Well-Known Member
rharshberger
Well-Known Member
6 attempts, 1 less than successful and 5 fails all using eSun White PETG, starting to think I have a bad roll (one print was in 19 hours of a 23 hour print for a bearing type CR-10 spool holder). For some reason the filament kept getting ground down by the extruder gears and stopped feeding through the bowden tube...so start looking for the issue, the nozzle got replaced as it was worn down about .3mm, check and messed with my temps, fans, clogged nozzles, the usual suspects no luck, so I switched to another new roll this time Overture White PETG and printed a quick string test that takes about 7mins and with my stock eSun PETG settings it was WAY better than the eSun. The Overture also feeds through the bowden tube easier, and the level block test print was about as perfect as it gets, my last roll of eSun PETG while functional was not what I thought it should be, and this roll seems to have some diameter consistency issues (all within eSun's proclaimed +/-.05mm though just barely). Oh well try again tomorrow.
Printed out a few bird houses for my daughters to paint and hang.
rharshberger
Well-Known Member
Nothing , I need to remove and replace my bowden tube, it moves in and out of the extruder side fitting about a 6-8mm everytime the extruder retracts and feeds, I believe this is part or most of the reason for the failed prints I am getting with the petg as its not actually retracting much and the filament is getting ground into by the hob gear, which is seems to be mushrooming the filament and making it stick in the tube too. Ordered some more PC4-M10 fittings to have on hand (made sure they were ones with metal teeth) and extra PTFE tubing, must have spares. So far I have printed like 4kgs on my machine and wore out one nozzle (brass need to order some more).
, I need to remove and replace my bowden tube, it moves in and out of the extruder side fitting about a 6-8mm everytime the extruder retracts and feeds, I believe this is part or most of the reason for the failed prints I am getting with the petg as its not actually retracting much and the filament is getting ground into by the hob gear, which is seems to be mushrooming the filament and making it stick in the tube too. Ordered some more PC4-M10 fittings to have on hand (made sure they were ones with metal teeth) and extra PTFE tubing, must have spares. So far I have printed like 4kgs on my machine and wore out one nozzle (brass need to order some more).printed standard and resized versions of Jack H's Enerjet fin cans - std, BT50, BT20, BT5 , and BT60 for my interceptor design.
This pic shows std, 50 and 20 size. I am very pleased with these. the BT5's did not come out well but I think I need to do some printer maintenance. The big one needed to go 1-2 % bigger - lots of sanding to get it on a BT60. Need to allow for print thickness and shrinkage when calculating ratios.
This pic shows std, 50 and 20 size. I am very pleased with these. the BT5's did not come out well but I think I need to do some printer maintenance. The big one needed to go 1-2 % bigger - lots of sanding to get it on a BT60. Need to allow for print thickness and shrinkage when calculating ratios.
rharshberger
Well-Known Member
Started printing the Interceptor E nosecone for a slight upscale to BMS T204-34 tubing after playing with the tailcone in several scale attempts 103% seems to be the magic number for the shoulder to fit the tube. Only 14 hours or so to go. Printing the part from Overture White PETG.
On the other hand the tailcone is not wanting to print in PETG (haven't tried PLA yet) as the supports cause so much retraction with so few inches of filament used that the hob gear grinds the filament down until it is oblated or just wont feed. So I give up for now on the Tailcone part. I did replace the bowden tube and fittings which seem to fix the issue with the tube moving in and out at the extruder end too much (IMO).
On the other hand the tailcone is not wanting to print in PETG (haven't tried PLA yet) as the supports cause so much retraction with so few inches of filament used that the hob gear grinds the filament down until it is oblated or just wont feed. So I give up for now on the Tailcone part. I did replace the bowden tube and fittings which seem to fix the issue with the tube moving in and out at the extruder end too much (IMO).
