Bruce
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 20, 2019
- Messages
- 380
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- 108
What about the new 24mm Q-Jets? They should be out soon.Question about the V2. I installed the retainer clip from Apogee which is 24x70. The D12-3 worked great, probably 200ft for a 300g rocket. The D21-4 probably went 400ft (but the delay sucked). What are my other viable alternatives and where can I get them? I could remove the clip and insert a new block to extend the motor tube to 24x95. I might be able to attach a screw on retainer or it would have to be friction fit. What do you suggest?
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Looks like I can get the D15 pack from Chris Rocket Supply for $36 total.
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What about the new 24mm Q-Jets? They should be out soon.
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I have both the 24/40 and 24/60 AT casings. The 24/60 is the longer “E” length. The reloads are pretty straightforward. The E18, F24 and F35(24/60) are all nice motors. The F35 really packs a punch. I prefer the white motors over the blue. Not sure how easily you can remove the hook and thrust ring without damage. If you can get it out then maybe add a retainer like the Rocketarium?Yes, very nice. The D21T-4 (figured out the T was for Blue Thunder) looked more like it had a 7 second delay because that's how long it took to hit the ground. I'd say it went up to 400ft on a 20Ns motor. The E26W at 27.9Ns might go up to 600ft which is good.
Apogee said the V2 will go 951ft on an E18W-4 (probably 800ft in tropical air) with a 39Ns motor. I've never done a reloadable before. I think it can be shipped to me by boat but will need to call Apogee.
There's also the E20W-4 at 36Ns. The E6-4 is interesting but says it's 77mm length so it would stick out 7mm.
Another alternative is to put in an E12-4 in. I could take out the retaining hook and motor block, or I could friction fit. I'm afraid it might go horizontal like the Estes Shuttle.
I have both the 24/40 and 24/60 AT casings. The 24/60 is the longer “E” length. The reloads are pretty straightforward. The E18, F24 and F35(24/60) are all nice motors. The F35 really packs a punch. I prefer the white motors over the blue. Not sure how easily you can remove the hook and thrust ring without damage. If you can get it out then maybe add a retainer like the Rocketarium?
Oh boy, no I would not do that. I say stick with the 70mm engine mount and hook. If you want more kick than a D12, then look at the AT 24/40 with an E18 or F24.I'm wondering how detrimental it would be to have the E length sticking out the end like this. I can try to sim it later.
I can cut the end of the retaining hook and push the front end up out of the way then replace the motor block. If I remove the steering vanes, I might be able to install a screw on retainer.
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Thanks. That's what I was thinking. (refer back to #694)Oh boy, no I would not do that. I say stick with the 70mm engine mount and hook. If you want more kick than a D12, then look at the AT 24/40 with an E18 or F24.
You will also need the casing for the E18 unless you already have it. Boy motors sure add up quick!Thanks. That's what I was thinking. (refer back to #694)
I asked Apogee and they said there isn't a upcharge for shipping by boat. Other vendors only ship to the continental US.
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IIRC Tim Van Milligan wrote an article about using longer 24mm motors in a D sized engine mount.
One option was to let the longer motor just stick out the back. I think he used tape wrap to keep the motor retained at ejection.
Tried searching for it in the Apogee newsletter archives but coming up empty.
Now that you mention it, I think he covered it in a video. After all, the E motor doesn’t stick out that far from the fin and can tape to the hook, plus there’s a crap load of clay already in the NC. Bwahhahhah...IIRC Tim Van Milligan wrote an article about using longer 24mm motors in a D sized engine mount.
One option was to let the longer motor just stick out the back. I think he used tape wrap to keep the motor retained at ejection.
Tried searching for it in the Apogee newsletter archives but coming up empty.
I never use engine blocks or motor hooks in 24mm MMTs anymore. I use either Aeropack or Rocketarium retainers (3D printed retainers would be ideal, but no printer) and just make thrust rings out of tape on Estes engines. One must keep their options open....IIRC Tim Van Milligan wrote an article about using longer 24mm motors in a D sized engine mount.
One option was to let the longer motor just stick out the back. I think he used tape wrap to keep the motor retained at ejection.
Tried searching for it in the Apogee newsletter archives but coming up empty.
I’ve wondered why Tim decided to include a 70mm hook with the V2 conversion kit. I figured there must/might be a good reason and went with it. This has forced me to learn what could go into the rocket. @neil_w has been a great resource.I never use engine blocks or motor hooks in 24mm MMTs anymore. I use either Aeropack or Rocketarium retainers (3D printed retainers would be ideal, but no printer) and just make thrust rings out of tape on Estes engines. One must keep their options open....
Disappointing. I need to understand this. And my offer still stands.The Twin Factor had the best launch of its life. Pretty amazing for a cardstock rocket. I had two launch fails. The first starter definitely ignited but probably wasn't inserted far enough in. The second fail had crossed starter wires. I recently replaced the two 9v batteries. The off-brand and the Li-ion rechargeable batteries didn't work. The Amazon batteries are the best.
Congrats on getting them all back safely with those winds, especially the multistage!
I ended up with an excess of C11-7. I think I bought them for the Loadstar and accidentally double ordered. That’s what happens when the motors have to travel by slow boat and I forget what I ordered.Nice set of flights. I nabbed a Twin Factor at the Cyber Monday sale (for $3 or whatever), that's a fun little 2-stage flight with easy recovery.
Use -3 (or even better, a -0) motor on the Vortico. You don't want the ejection charge firing so close to the ground.
It brings me an unreasonable amount of joy to see that spent motor on the rod, keeping the rockets off the blast deflector plate.
Disappointing. I need to understand this. And my offer still stands.
I don't trust your current measurement. The AC measurement circuit in the meter is not designed to do what you're asking it to do.I’m in the process of returning the Li-ion batteries. It’s a mystery why the voltage and current are the same but only the Amazon batteries will ignite the starters. How does one measure the quality of a battery other than V=IR?
I picked up some cheap clear fingernail polish at Longs a couple of years ago. Still have it.I’m also trying to convince my wife to share her nail polish for the starters but she says she doesn’t have any. Go figure...
Bottom line is, just don't use 9V batteries for this purpose when there are other better alternatives.
Empty one of your rounds and dip the starter first in the nail polish then in the grains.
What kind of glue did you use for installing the MM? I've found with even small rockets that wood glue (Titebond II) grabs too quickly so I've been using epoxy for installing MMs.I don’t know why this rocket has been kicking my butt. I ordered one for $10 and messed up the MM. I got so angry, I did a n00b on the BT. So I did the only thing I could do and ordered another for $10. This time I misaligned the MM. Before I could n00b the rocket again, I decided to try and cut the end off and reglue it which worked but with a scar. Is this what happens when I skip the Beginner rockets and start with Intermediates?
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Are the motor mount centering rings paper or wood? My understanding is that for paper to paper, good white glue (not school glue) WHEN DRY is as strong as wood glue. For purposes of motor mount installation, white glue has two advantages over wood glue. Mainly, it allows a longer working time, less likely to grab prematurely. (That said, I test fit, test fit again, test fit again making sure I know exactly how far I am going to push in the mount, THEN apply the white glue and promptly and smoothly try to get it inserted in one smooth motion.) Since as opposed to fins, once you put the motor mount in it pretty much stays where you put it, the longer cure time for wood glue generally isn’t much of a disadvantage, especially since it is usually one of the first steps in building a rocket, and white glue cure time is generally less than paint cure time.What kind of glue did you use for installing the MM? I've found with even small rockets that wood glue (Titebond II) grabs too quickly so I've been using epoxy for installing MMs.
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