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BABAR

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I have 21 flights on one, including several with incomplete ‘chute deployments. It took me awhile to figure out how to get a 15 inch ‘chute and an FS Mini in a cloth pouch out of that BT-50 tube reliably. In fact, I have had to replace the body tube once because it’s gotten crumpled from the resulting less-than-soft landings. It’s flown on Q-Jet B4s and C12s, Estes B6s, C5s and C6s.

The camera has been rock solid. Here is a Q-Jet C12-6 flight:

I took advantage of the ability to peel the sticker off the pearlescent tube to transfer it to the replacement plain white BT-50.
Kinda woulda been nice if they had angled the camera out a bit, not wasted 1/4 of FOV with the nose cone. Sometimes I wonder if they actually beta test these things.:rabbitdontknow:
 

rklapp

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Not sure it applies to the Estes cams. I think @georgegassaway was the source (not sure), but i did read somewhere that at least for the Keychain 808 cameras the cameras had no internal overcharging protection, the recommendation was not to leave them plugged in over 2 hours, ideally to unplug them when the “completed charging” signal was given (varies, light stops blinking, starts blinking, or turns off. Read the manuals. Of course the manuals are not in the best English, but since I speak zero Chinese, I am not in a position to complain!)
Good point. The instructions said that the blue light will slowly blink. The blue light wasn't going on when plugged in. When I finally got it to work and plugged in, the blue light wouldn't blink.

It's finally working again. Hopefully, I beat the battery into submission.
 

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Not overly impressed with the picture quality. If however the flight data is automatically applied, that would be a cool plus.
No, that was overlaid by using a third-party piece of software intended for laying gages over dash-cam video from racetrack usage or some such. See the huge logo that I've not paid to remove in the lower left hand corner. Data, in this case, from a FlightSketch Mini.
 

BABAR

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No, that was overlaid by using a third-party piece of software intended for laying gages over dash-cam video from racetrack usage or some such. See the huge logo that I've not paid to remove in the lower left hand corner. Data, in this case, from a FlightSketch Mini.
Bummer. Really would be cool for Estes to integrate that into the camera, but obviously would significantly bump the price. @rklapp ‘s inflight videos are much better quality.
 

BEC

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Yeah, a combination camera/altimeter (with accelerometer) would certainly be a larger, pricier, harder-to-use piece of hardware. As for the quality, having flown several flavors of "808" cameras on planes and rockets over the last 10 years or so, as well as a Mobius, it certainly is not bad, especially considering the tiny, light device that it is.

Thankfully this camera is closer to the Mobius in user interface—not all the complex or hard to remember, unlike 808s and their ilk.
 

rklapp

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I'm still looking for a compact camera under 20g with easy controls (more than one button) and films in 1080p/60fps so I can slow it down without it turning into a slide show. Even Tim's $104 camera films only in 30fps. The search continues...

 

Greg Furtman

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I'm still looking for a compact camera under 20g with easy controls (more than one button) and films in 1080p/60fps so I can slow it down without it turning into a slide show. Even Tim's $104 camera films only in 30fps. The search continues...

If you find one please let me know.
 

rklapp

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Today I dropped by the LHS to kill time and say hi to the owner. He has this nefarious scheme with a $5 coupon on his website but I didn’t plan to buy anything. Long story short, a Saturn IB kit followed me home. 😲
 

mikewrt

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Testing out different camera and Mylar streamers on windy day
Many successful launches on a stormy Hawaiian evening
Really like the Mylar streamers you are using. I want give them a try. Do you mind sharing where you got them?
Love the mini Executioner! I'll have to build one someday!
As always great videos!
 

rklapp

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Really like the Mylar streamers you are using. I want give them a try. Do you mind sharing where you got them?
Love the mini Executioner! I'll have to build one someday!
As always great videos!
You can buy 4”x4’ strips from Apogee for $6 or this 2”x200’ roll for $9. However, the Mini Executioner might be too heavy for the 2” streamer so might switch to a 12” chute for the D12.


I also bought heat tape but not sure if it’s necessary.


Thanks for watching.:popcorn:
 

rklapp

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Spider Infestations and an Archeology Dig

We had a break in the weather for the morning. By 10:30am, the winds started shifting around and picking up, so we stopped after 5 rockets. The Panasonic cam worked okay. I still need to get used to the zoom. I set the cam to Beach mode which seemed to wash out the colors which is the opposite of what I was hoping. Thursday will be another low wind day but 50% chance of rain. For the past month or two, our stuff gets infested with small spiders. Not sure where they're coming from because we're in the middle of the field, and there are no visible webs.

When we arrived, there was another group who showed up at the same time. Eventually, a girl walked over and explained they were flying an RC plane. We made sure not to launch our SAMs at their plane. I finally launched my Spacemonkey/Apogee V2 with the D21-4T motor that I bought off Ebay. The delay was way longer than 4 seconds. Fortunately, it had rained earlier so the ground was muddy. It took some effort to pull the cone out of the red clay.

The Astrocam mostly worked. I used a piece of clear tape to hold the string that holds up the nose cone so the cam is pointed down. As a result, I got great video of the NC clip. The flight of the Orbital Transport worked well except that the glider didn't detach. I think what happened is that the initial thrust of the D16-4 was enough to force the glider onto the connecter.

I lost visual of the Viking and Mini Executioner until both landed right next to us. I'm still trying to get used to the zoom. I have another week or two to decide if I want to exchange it for a more expensive model, but I read it's about the same quality. There's a balance between auto focus and stability in a video camera.

Timeline:
00:19 Viking #1 3pts
01:41 Astrocam 5pts
03:00 Flight video
03:35 Orbital Transport 4pts
04:33 V2 3pts
07:47 Mini Executioner 3pts
09:25 Total 18pts

 

kuririn

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Good thing that V2 is made of plastic.
 

rklapp

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Strange things with the DIY controller. I was using Amazon brand 9v batteries. The starters burst into flames. I recently bought cheapo brand and tried those. Of course I threw away the Amazon batteries. The starters will not ignite. The voltage and amps are the same. The obvious explanation is that the resistance is much higher with the cheapo brand, right? (I know, time to try out the lipos finally)

The remains of the D21-4t.

42051AF8-555F-429B-AFC5-A76EB9E37251.jpeg


57062B7C-8FED-46AF-8013-0A2984F5CD82.jpeg
 

BABAR

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Your next cricket or cockroach is gonna be riding in style, baby!

otoh,this would be a really BAD rocket to accidentally land in someone’s backyard.

“Honey, I found a rocket in our backyard!”

“That’s nice dear. What’s it say?”

“Biohazard.”

“insert epithet of choice and appropriate or inappropriate emojis here”


given the circulation of Apogee’s newsletter, and the cool design, the above is BOUND to happen to somebody!



sorta like this scared the heck out of the first few beach combers that stumbled upon it

 
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rklapp

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@rklapp With that transparent payload area this would make a great night flyer. A few self blinking RGB LEDs and a small 1s LiPo and it would light up very nicely.
Yeah that’s what I was thinking.


otoh,this would be a really BAD rocket to accidentally land in someone’s backyard.

“Honey, I found a rocket in our backyard!”

“That’s nice dear. What’s it say?”

“Biohazard.”

“insert epithet of choice and appropriate or inappropriate emojis here”


given the circulation of Apogee’s newsletter, and the cool design, the above is BOUND to happen to somebody!



sorta like this scared the heck out of the first few beach combers that stumbled upon it

It makes it easier to find the rocket. Just follow the fire trucks.
:ghosty:

Very nice job!!!
I didn’t follow your advice to attach the ring after painting because I was too curious and impatient to attach it, but I do recommend it. I will probably get some black pinstripes for the main tube and I might move the logo over, maybe. Overall, a well designed and awesome rocket. Maybe someday all of this rain will end.

9D519065-90D8-4D34-A306-440F5E45C2C9.jpeg
 
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BEC

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Strange things with the DIY controller. I was using Amazon brand 9v batteries. The starters burst into flames. I recently bought cheapo brand and tried those. Of course I threw away the Amazon batteries. The starters will not ignite. The voltage and amps are the same. The obvious explanation is that the resistance is much higher with the cheapo brand, right? (I know, time to try out the lipos finally)
Probably, but that being the case the current (amps) through the circuit will NOT be the same.

I've had that experience using SU D10s in rockets with plastic fin cans. Not surprised a D21 did the same thing. Those motor cases get pretty toasty and unlike paper cases they stay hot quite awhile.
 

neil_w

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Strange things with the DIY controller. I was using Amazon brand 9v batteries. The starters burst into flames. I recently bought cheapo brand and tried those. Of course I threw away the Amazon batteries. The starters will not ignite. The voltage and amps are the same. The obvious explanation is that the resistance is much higher with the cheapo brand, right?
Off-brand 9V batteries are known to be marginal for getting motors ignited. For curiosity, exactly how did you confirm amps were the same? Ultimately, current is the only thing that matters with igniters.
(I know, time to try out the lipos finally)
Time to try anything other than 9V alkaline batteries. :)
 

BEC

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Off-brand 9V batteries are known to be marginal for getting motors ignited.
THIS!

Well, even the best ones (in my experience its Duracell only) are inferior even to a good set of 4 AA cells (again, Duracells or something truly equivalent).

That said, I generally fly with 3s LiPolys these days, either in the PSII controller, or on my 3-pad system or even when running a club launch with our 5-10 pad system.

I do bring out the Electro-Launch that's in my avatar pic from time to time. Four Duracell Ds can pack quite a punch, actually. :)
 

rklapp

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Off-brand 9V batteries are known to be marginal for getting motors ignited. For curiosity, exactly how did you confirm amps were the same? Ultimately, current is the only thing that matters with igniters.

Time to try anything other than 9V alkaline batteries. :)
I know that the two 9v in series are 1.4a.

The lipo batteries I have are bulky. I finally tested them yesterday and worked great but don't fit in the current controller and barely in the larger one. What's the smallest lipo that's smaller than two 9v?

Maybe it's finally time to build the Forte controller.

 

neil_w

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I know that the two 9v in series are 1.4a.
How did you measure, exactly? I'm genuinely curious.
The lipo batteries I have are bulky. I finally tested them yesterday and worked great but don't fit in the current controller and barely in the larger one. What's the smallest lipo that's smaller than two 9v?
Don't forget the other possibility of 9V Lithium rechargeables. They're pretty cheap and can dump a ton of current. They should be easier to work with than LiPos. Probably only need one, two in series unlikely to add any additional value (but you can test).

I want so badly for someone to try these out and report back. On paper they seem fantastic. :)
 

BABAR

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Probably, but that being the case the current (amps) through the circuit will NOT be the same.


I've had that experience using SU D10s in rockets with plastic fin cans. Not surprised a D21 did the same thing. Those motor cases get pretty toasty and unlike paper cases they stay hot quite awhile.
The older Quest black powder motor casings seem to get much hotter than their Estes counterparts, or overpass better described as the OUTSIDE of the casing got hotter. I think the paper casings were thinner and less insulating, I remember “browning” of the white paint on the outside minimum diameter body tube after a single flight with an older Quest C.
 

BEC

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The older Quest black powder motor casings seem to get much hotter than their Estes counterparts, or overpass better described as the OUTSIDE of the casing got hotter. I think the paper casings were thinner and less insulating, I remember “browning” of the white paint on the outside minimum diameter body tube after a single flight with an older Quest C.
Yes, this has also been my experience. I still have a moderate stash of both B6-4s and C6-5s of the Chinese BP Quest motors. One does need to choose wisely what model to fly them in. But the phenolic-cased Aerotech SU D10 and D21 can and do cook a model, especially with plastic parts, quite well.

I have an Alpha III that has a sort of shrunken body between the fins from flying it on Chinese-made Quest BP motors. I've also had a couple of the Cs that came very close to burning through the case, but didn't actually do it.

I've only had a very few of the German-made Quest BP motors, which are most notable for their smaller OD and their black nozzles. I've not noticed hot casing issues with them, but can't say I've flown them in a way that would highlight that as a problem.
 

rklapp

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How did you measure, exactly? I'm genuinely curious.

Don't forget the other possibility of 9V Lithium rechargeables. They're pretty cheap and can dump a ton of current. They should be easier to work with than LiPos. Probably only need one, two in series unlikely to add any additional value (but you can test).

I want so badly for someone to try these out and report back. On paper they seem fantastic. :)
Would this work?

 

rklapp

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Question about the V2. I installed the retainer clip from Apogee which is 24x70. The D12-3 worked great, probably 200ft for a 300g rocket. The D21-4 probably went 400ft (but the delay sucked). What are my other viable alternatives and where can I get them? I could remove the clip and insert a new block to extend the motor tube to 24x95. I might be able to attach a screw on retainer or it would have to be friction fit. What do you suggest?

1616737668591.png


Looks like I can get the D15 pack from Chris Rocket Supply for $36 total.

1616738785764.png
 
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neil_w

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I do have a 1k resistor inline for the continuity light. Without the cable...
Whoa, those aren't even alkaline batteries... you really like to live on the edge. :)

Heading over to PMs, don't want to clog this thread with any more of my battery talk.
 
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