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neil_w

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Seems like we’ve had this conversation...
I’m trying to remember, we’re here issues with printer ink printing over paint?
Some the silver decals didn’t want to adhere, I needed to slip a little CA under the edges to make them stay down (eventually followed by Future).
 

rklapp

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I ordered the yellow pinstripe. Should get here in a week or two. I started hand brushing the silver. What a pita. Might be difficult to slide the decal on. Hopefully not.

F1FB0C67-F596-444B-B3F7-C83E6F6A284A.jpeg
 

kuririn

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I picked up some pinstripe tape from Checkers O'Reilly's Auto a long while back.
They may still carry those.
Also you can spray paint narrow strips of decal paper and apply.
I like the white decal paper for that because of the opacity.
 
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rklapp

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The instructions call for 1/32" pinstripe but that's for the regular Executioner. I'm leery of using the 1/64" tape so ordered the 1/32". Seems like there could a lot of usage for it.

I'll need to use the white background paper for the nuclear symbols.
 

neil_w

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I ordered the yellow pinstripe. Should get here in a week or two. I started hand brushing the silver. What a pita. Might be difficult to slide the decal on. Hopefully not.

View attachment 451826
That looks great, What silver paint is it?

I doubt you’ll have problems with the decals. If the surface is bumpy, Micro-sol could help them conform.
 

BABAR

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A trick on home made label paper decals when the background is black, if the rocket background is black, and the foreground color is anything other than white, use a black sharpie along the cut edge, almost makes the edge disappear
 

rklapp

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That looks great, What silver paint is it?

I doubt you’ll have problems with the decals. If the surface is bumpy, Micro-sol could help them conform.
Rusto Metallic Silver. The pita was the taping. It'll look better with the yellow pinstripe.

A trick on home made label paper decals when the background is black, if the rocket background is black, and the foreground color is anything other than white, use a black sharpie along the cut edge, almost makes the edge disappear
I did that for the Exocet missile. Works great. For the nuclear symbols on the mini Executioner, I converted the white to black and will print on white background. The problem is that it's been months since I last did this and can't find the decal sheets so had to order more from Amazon. Doh! It's probably next to the D21-4T that I put in a safe place. There are some days when my age starts to show.
 
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kuririn

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NWS forecast for the next several days: Showers likely and windy/breezy.
Dang.:(
I like building em but after a while it's like eating pizza.
 

neil_w

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I like building em but after a while it's like eating pizza.
I'm... gonna need an explanation for that expression. :)

If you're saying that building without flying is less than 100% satisfying, I'm with you there. But before you feel too bad about it, give a thought to those like me who are coming up on 18 months since last launch. :(
 

mbeels

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I like building em but after a while it's like eating pizza.
Is it like this: eating the first slice tastes great, the second one only slightly less so, but by the time you're on your third pie, it becomes a chore to chow through each slice?
 

mbeels

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It's too much of a good thing. After two days in a row of pizza you look for something else to eat.
I can relate, my hobbies tend to come and go in cycles, I'm out of the rocket building phase (after binging on it last year), but I'm sure it will come back. In the meanwhile, I do enjoy @rklapp's updates thread.
 

rklapp

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Semroc Orbital Transport. I messed up and switched the small and big fins. Do you think it makes a difference or should I rip them off and reglue?

0F39F6BA-0F9E-471E-B172-D58B4B434DB2.jpeg
 

mbeels

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Semroc Orbital Transport. I messed up and switched the small and big fins. Do you think it makes a difference or should I rip them off and reglue?
Without looking up the rocket, I'm not entirely sure which two are switched. I could guess, but I think it looks fine as it is.
 

rklapp

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These are switched with the two on other side. I think the glider rests on the smaller fins. I could also add a single fin underneath the glider to support it. This will save me from having to rip the misplaced fins off the cardboard tube.

CDC33324-EA3D-4499-882E-D746CCFF5A64.jpeg
 
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jrap330

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Destruction is never a good thing and I don't care how good you are at construction....So test it out...fly it naked and see what happens. Unless you point it out...do you really notice the discrepancy? I need to restate...my models look like crap....30 foot rule...so you may hold my opinions to a lesser standard than anyone else.
 

BABAR

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Semroc Orbital Transport. I messed up and switched the small and big fins. Do you think it makes a difference or should I rip them off and reglue?

View attachment 452390
repeat after me, “I meant to do that. I meant to do that. I meant to do that.”

I would say nobody will notice, but given the sharp eyes and encyclopedic brains of some members of this forum, somebody probably would. (So be careful what is in the BACKGROUND of your pics!)

At first I thought it wouldn’t effect the flight, but I haven’t built this. If it alters the angle of attack of the glider on boost, it MIGHT be a problem.
 

rklapp

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The smaller fins are about half the size of the larger fins (shown in close up). Since it's balsa, didn't think the weight difference would affect the balance and angle of attack.

The glider's supposed to rest on the smaller fins which could be an issue on ascent.

It's sitting on my desk and I occasionally stare at it trying to decide if I want to slice off the decorative fins and mess up the tube, or just add a rest for the glider.
 

kuririn

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Check the fit of the dowel at the front of the glider into the short lug on the main body with the end resting on the larger fins. If it's loose enough to easily separate then you should be good. If it's tight or you cannot get the dowel in at all then you can either shave down the fins to bring the back end of the glider down and align the dowel or use a blow dryer or heat gun on the glue joint and soften the glue and remove the fins (gently).
Myself, I would sand down the larger fins to bring the glider into alignment (if needed).
Easiest solution.
Hopefully you won't need to do any of that.
 

kuririn

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PS another thing you could do is remove the dowel at the front of the glider and put a shim to realign it then reglue it into position.
 

rklapp

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does glider fly ok?
I hope to find out soon after this trade wind stops. We'll probably head out to the park tomorrow anyways. I bought a roll of Mylar that I want to try out. I might also try my new Mini Executioner with a C11-7. Wish me luck...

1614416759531.png
 

rklapp

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Testing out different camera and Mylar streamers on windy day

I bought a $130 video camera on Amazon. I decided it's too shaky because it lacks any image stability like the iPhone, plus the virtual zoom is crap. I wanted to try the low budget option before deciding on a more premium option. I welcome any recommendations for a hand held video camera with high resolution, fps, stability, and doesn't require selling a kidney.

The trade winds have been strong since my last successful launch day and are forecasted to be for the foreseeable future. I replaced the parachutes with a roll of 2" Mylar streamer I bought. This seems to work really well for the medium rockets. I might try doubling it up for the larger rockets until I can find a roll of 4" streamer at a reasonable price.

I received my order for different types of Quest motors. It took several tries to get the C12-4 to ignite. It worked with the Estes controller. I'm not sure if the DIY controller is incompatible with the Quest motors or if I didn't connect the initiator correctly. We'll see...

The Mini Executioner with the 24mm motor worked well except I forgot to add the streamer (I think). It made a hard landing in the tennis courts. Fortunately, I made an extra fin when I cut the balsa. ("I like to number my feathers for just such an emergency.") My other error was that I didn't adjust the direction of the rod angle after the Nike-X landed by the courts.

In my point system, I'm giving a point for the Mylar streamer like I would with the chutes because they're rather awesome. I'm not sure why I didn't at least put the Estes altimeter in the Hi-flier. This woulda been a repeat of the previous high wind launch where it landed in a tree.

Timeline:
00:00 Puma 3pts
00:46 Loadstar 4pts
01:20 Orange Bullet 3pts
02:12 Viking #3 3pts
03:01 Viking #2 3pts
03:56 XF-45 4pts
04:53 Hi-flier 4pts
06:14 Nike-X 4pts
08:03 Mini Executioner 3pts
08:57 Total 31pts


5b.png
8b.png
 

neil_w

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What power source are you using in your FIY controller again?
 

kuririn

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Nice video.
Gotta hand it to you, you got some cojones launching in this wind.
 

BABAR

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Enjoyed the program, as usual.

Did you get any grief from the Tennis players?
 

rklapp

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What power source are you using in your DIY controller again?
Two 9v batteries in series. I measured it and it's at 16.5v and 13.7a when I press the button. I have a 1k resistor attached to the continuity light. Perhaps it's time to change the batteries?

Nice video.
Gotta hand it to you, you got some cojones launching in this wind.
Today was worse than yesterday. Definitely winter here on the island.

1614587451623.png


Enjoyed the program, as usual.

Did you get any grief from the Tennis players?
Karens... 🤣
 

neil_w

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Two 9v batteries in series. I measured it and it's at 16.5v and 13.7a when I press the button. I have a 1k resistor attached to the continuity light. Perhaps it's time to change the batteries?
9V alkaline batteries absolutely cannot supply 13.7a. How did you measure that?

In any case, I'm not a fan of using 9V alkaline batteries for launch power. Almost anything else is better, e.g.:

  • 6 x 1.5V batteries (a la PSII controller)
  • 9V lithium rechargeables (insanely more powerful (current-wise) than alkalines). Just one of these should be more than enough for a day of launching, and it's easy enough to bring a spare or two with you just in case.
  • LiPo pack. Best of all, if you're willing to deal with the vagaries of LiPo maintenance.

Any of the above should be able to handle a pretty wide variety of igniters reliably (except maybe copperheads, which I think would be happiest with the LiPo.)

Anyway, when I hear of a QuestJet refusing to fire that would be my first thought.
 

rklapp

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9V alkaline batteries absolutely cannot supply 13.7a. How did you measure that?

In any case, I'm not a fan of using 9V alkaline batteries for launch power. Almost anything else is better, e.g.:

  • 6 x 1.5V batteries (a la PSII controller)
  • 9V lithium rechargeables (insanely more powerful (current-wise) than alkalines). Just one of these should be more than enough for a day of launching, and it's easy enough to bring a spare or two with you just in case.
  • LiPo pack. Best of all, if you're willing to deal with the vagaries of LiPo maintenance.

Any of the above should be able to handle a pretty wide variety of igniters reliably (except maybe copperheads, which I think would be happiest with the LiPo.)

Anyway, when I hear of a QuestJet refusing to fire that would be my first thought.
Sorry, typo. 1.37amps. This was my first time with the C12-4. The continuity light kept going on/off, so decided to change controllers. Afterwards, I checked out the DIY controller and seems to work fine, so I'm thinking it was a finicky initiator.

I have Lipo batteries. Someday I'll start using those.
 

neil_w

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Sorry, typo. 1.37amps. This was my first time with the C12-4. The continuity light kept going on/off, so decided to change controllers. Afterwards, I checked out the DIY controller and seems to work fine, so I'm thinking it was a finicky initiator.

I have Lipo batteries. Someday I'll start using those.
1.37 amps is not a lot for a launch controller. Strongly suggest switching to a different source, you won't be sorry.
 
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