T-25 Centurion question

[vinsonj]

Recently picked this up on Ebay (knowing the monokote needed ironing), just checking if anyone here has experience doing this and can provide any guidance/tips. I imagine all I need to do is iron it, but wanted any advice on what I should use in between the iron and monokote (I doubt I should iron directly on it), and what temps are best (would like to avoid any heat damage to the monokote or beneath). Thanks in advance for the help!

 

[bcanino]

The T-25 is a ARF version of the Estes StroBlaster. The model should already be covered. You just assemble the parts and install the radio equipment.

I haven't built one, but reading reviews from other, it seem the boom are the weak part of the model. They need some kind of reinforcement.

If you still interesting in covering, see https://www.monokote.com/monoinst1.html

 

[MaxQ]

The T-25 is a ARF version of the Estes StroBlaster. The model should already be covered. You just assemble the parts and install the radio equipment.

I haven't built one, but reading reviews from other, it seem the boom are the weak part of the model. They need some kind of reinforcement.

If you still interesting in covering, see https://www.monokote.com/monoinst1.html

Yep...wish I had read that before I built mine.

If you visit the LHS...you can ask if they carry a hot sock for the Monkote heating iron...it will cut down the heat and keep the surface a little cleaner...
https://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHZ20

 

[vinsonj]

The T-25 is a ARF version of the Estes StroBlaster. The model should already be covered. You just assemble the parts and install the radio equipment.

I haven't built one, but reading reviews from other, it seem the boom are the weak part of the model. They need some kind of reinforcement.

If you still interesting in covering, see https://www.monokote.com/monoinst1.html

The monokote came with the glider, and over time, has wrinkled a bit. Looks like it takes a specialized iron built specifically for monokote (along with the "sock"). If you don't mind, which review did you find that mentioned the boom reinforcement?

thanks again

 

[adrian]

Just make sure you launch it the right way up. This means it will need some sort of support because its natural tendency is to hang upside down under a launch rod. If you launch it like that, this is what happens.

 

[vinsonj]

It was like christmas last week on Ebay....I'd been checking for months and hadn't seen much, then all of a sudden the T-25, Sweet Vee, and Astro Blaster all popped up. Of course, I grabbed them all

The T-25 looks the most complex of the 3, so I'll probably build/fly the Sweet Vee first, then give the Astro Blaster a go before the T-25. Anyone else have experience with these and recommendations? I've got some experience with my Arcie II, along with plenty of R/C simm time.....

Thanks

 

[kjohnson]

The T-25 is the easiest to build and get flying since it's an ARF. It also has the most conventional control layout (elevator and ailerons) of the 3.

kj

 

[Chip Geek]

Be sure to stiffen the elevator pushrod where it connects to the servo. If you don't, it flexes when you want UP elevator and that can cause "bad" things to happen. I wrote a review for Sport Rocketry on the T-25 a bunch of years ago. Maybe 2003? I can't find my copy right now.

 

[vinsonj]

Be sure to stiffen the elevator pushrod where it connects to the servo. If you don't, it flexes when you want UP elevator and that can cause "bad" things to happen. I wrote a review for Sport Rocketry on the T-25 a bunch of years ago. Maybe 2003? I can't find my copy right now.

Thanks for the tip....what do you mean by stiffen it up though? Do I need to put some sort of sheeth on it or something?

 

[kjohnson]

A small piece of balsa glued to the side of the fuselage and the pushrod tube is all you need. Keeps the tube from bending.

kj

 

[JoeG]

Recently picked this up on Ebay (knowing the monokote needed ironing), just checking if anyone here has experience doing this and can provide any guidance/tips. I imagine all I need to do is iron it, but wanted any advice on what I should use in between the iron and monokote (I doubt I should iron directly on it), and what temps are best (would like to avoid any heat damage to the monokote or beneath). Thanks in advance for the help!

Most ARF's need help in tightening up the covering when they first arrive. Actually any kind of an iron will work. I used my wife's iron on the first two airplanes i built until I started getting all these funny colors on my dress shirts and she made me buy my own iron. The Hot Socks are great but I usually just stick the iron inside an old T-shirt and pull the excess tight around the handle.

Make sure all the edges of the covering are ironed down tight and then you can just run the iron over it very lightly to re-shrink it. Don't press or it will attach itself before shrinking up and you will have permanent wrinkles. The ideal way to tighten up the covering is with a heat gun. Hair dryer just doesn't get hot enough for Monokote.

Hope this helps.

 

[vinsonj]

Thanks for the info....I'll probably pick up one of the specialized monokote irons (with sock) and give it a try. I'm also really interested in eventually converting the T-25 or the Astro Blaster to an electric airplane (not there yet, want to play around with them as BG's first!

I've seen in the forums that the D11-P's are hard to find and most everyone has moved on to the Aerotech reloadables.....anyone have recommendations for these 3 RCBG's? I'm starting from scratch with them, so I'd likely need a kit (engine mount and/or adapter, baffle, etc-right?)

Thanks again,
JV

 

[kjohnson]

I'm starting from scratch with them, so I'd likely need a kit (engine mount and/or adapter, baffle, etc-right?)

Not sure what you mean here. For the 3 models you've mentioned and RCRG in general, I'd suggest getting the 24mm RC casing. It is plugged (no forward closure for ejection charges) and had reloads made specifically for gliders.

The D7 and E7 loads are good for starting out, and the E6 reload is great for lighter gliders like the AstroBlaster. Ive seen the E6 used on Sweet Vee's. The E6 is what I use in my S8 contest models and in my SpaceShipOne conversion.

You can also get single use E15-P motors from Aerotech at www.valuerockets.com for $20 a 3 pack. Those would work well in the T-25 I think.

kj

 

[vinsonj]

Not sure what you mean here. For the 3 models you've mentioned and RCRG in general, I'd suggest getting the 24mm RC casing. It is plugged (no forward closure for ejection charges) and had reloads made specifically for gliders.

The D7 and E7 loads are good for starting out, and the E6 reload is great for lighter gliders like the AstroBlaster. Ive seen the E6 used on Sweet Vee's. The E6 is what I use in my S8 contest models and in my SpaceShipOne conversion.

You can also get single use E15-P motors from Aerotech at www.valuerockets.com for $20 a 3 pack. Those would work well in the T-25 I think.

kj

Thanks for the recommendation, as I mentioned, I'm a complete noob when it comes to the Aerotech stuff. So I can get away with picking up 3 of the 24 mm casings (one for each of the RCBG's), then it's a matter of picking up different reloads (like the D7, E7 or E6), right? Nothing else is required?

Thanks again

 

[kjohnson]

You don't need one casing per glider, they don't get permanently attached. The kit will have a motor mount tube, you assemble the reload into the casing, then slip the casing into the mount, just like taking an estes motor and putting it in your regular rockets. You fly the model, remove the casing and clean and reload it for the next flight.

You may want to have more than one casing so you can have more than one motor prepped ahead of time to save you some turnaround time between flights. Here is a link to the directions:
https://www.aerotech-rocketry.com/c...tions/RMS-RC_24_20-40/rmsrc_24_d7-e6_4-04.pdf

I have gotten casings from a couple different vendors, most recently Red Arrow. From this page you want item number ARO91242- 24/20-40 hardware for R/C (Plugged with no delay/ejection)
https://www.redarrowhobbies.com/aerotech_rms_hardware.htm

You can also order the reloads from them as well:
The top table has the 24mm reloads
https://www.redarrowhobbies.com/aerotech_rc_glider_engines.htm


kj

 

[Chip Geek]

Thanks for the tip....what do you mean by stiffen it up though? Do I need to put some sort of sheeth on it or something?

A small piece of balsa glued to the side of the fuselage and the pushrod tube is all you need. Keeps the tube from bending.

kj

In my case it was NOT the outer plastic tube that needed stiffening. It was the inner metal cable that was too flexible. ...wait a second...

I just went to the garage and looked at it. Perhaps I trimmed the outer tube back too far and that caused too long of a section of metal cable to be exposed. My new (modified) recommendation:

Make sure the outer plastic tube reaches out of the wing as far as it can but still allows the proper servo movement. In addition, stiffen the end of the metal cable with solder BEFORE installing it in the tube. If required, kj's recommendation looks useful too. (But be sure it does not restrict servo movement.)

 

[vinsonj]

You don't need one casing per glider, they don't get permanently attached. The kit will have a motor mount tube, you assemble the reload into the casing, then slip the casing into the mount, just like taking an estes motor and putting it in your regular rockets. You fly the model, remove the casing and clean and reload it for the next flight.

You may want to have more than one casing so you can have more than one motor prepped ahead of time to save you some turnaround time between flights. Here is a link to the directions:
https://www.aerotech-rocketry.com/c...tions/RMS-RC_24_20-40/rmsrc_24_d7-e6_4-04.pdf

I have gotten casings from a couple different vendors, most recently Red Arrow. From this page you want item number ARO91242- 24/20-40 hardware for R/C (Plugged with no delay/ejection)
https://www.redarrowhobbies.com/aerotech_rms_hardware.htm

You can also order the reloads from them as well:
The top table has the 24mm reloads
https://www.redarrowhobbies.com/aerotech_rc_glider_engines.htm


kj

That's perfect, thanks for the links! Out of curiousity, do the Aerotech engines require a different launch controller than a normal Estes setup? If not, it's just the small matter of putting these kits together

Currently the plan is to also build the glider stand/guide that is part of the Sweet Vee instructions - it seems pretty simple and self-explanitory...any thoughts, tips or recommendations though?

Thanks again...

 

[kjohnson]

That's perfect, thanks for the links! Out of curiousity, do the Aerotech engines require a different launch controller than a normal Estes setup?

Glad to help. If you use the included copperhead ignitors, then you'll need a 12v launch controller. I've been using the Quest Q2G2 ignitors (long tail) almost exclusively in my E6 reloads since they came out and they are great. And you can use a regular controller. Once you get more into RCRG, you may want a "stomp" controller that you can lay on the ground and trigger by stepping on the launch button (after putting in a saftey key, of course).

As for launch guidance, the one in the instructions is pretty good. George Gassaway has plans for a really nice glider pad called the Omni pad on his website. Heh, I've been using a few fiberglass rods taped together and stuck on a stake.

kj