3D Printing Bought my first ever 3d printer. Bambu Labs P1S. Could use some advice on getting started

[cwbullet]

CW, I'm still learning, as such, I don't understand this comment. Answer to what? What happens after a few months to decrease quality and increased jams? Thanks!

All filament absorbs moisture from the environment. When you heat the filament, it boils the water off, and you get pops. The voids and moisture hinder extrusion. Also, the filament is 1.75mm when perfect. As it absorbs water, it can become too large to pass in the extruder, so you get a jam. Jams are uncommon from hydration but are still significant enough to consider a dehydrator if you keep filament out for extended periods.

 

[OzHybrid]

CW, I'm still learning, as such, I don't understand this comment. Answer to what? What happens after a few months to decrease quality and increased jams? Thanks!

Over time filaments absorb water from the atmosphere. PETG is less prone to it, but will over time absorb some. This affects your extrusion quality and quantity. The moisture in the filament boils and you'll hear popping as the filament comes out of the extruder. This also changes the temperature of the filament.
Keeping your filament dry gives you a consistency. Without consistent inputs of materials, measurements, temperatures, bed adhesion etc it's difficult to make adjustments to get you to a good printing point.
3d printing is death by 1000 paper cuts. Which paper cut killed your print is difficult to tell. It was one of them......

 

[MarsLander]

All filament absorbs moisture

Over time filaments absorb water

Got it, thanks!

if you keep filament out for extended periods.

Out of what? Out of the dehydrator? Or out of some other sort of packaging that limits exposure to moisture in the air?

 

[OzHybrid]

Got it, thanks!


Out of what? Out of the dehydrator? Or out of some other sort of packaging that limits exposure to moisture in the air?

In order of preference.
Straight out of dehydrator(different filament types need different lengths of time to fully dehydrate)
A sealed container with desiccant in it (you can store a few rolls at once)
A mylar ziplock bag
A vacuum sealed bag( the way they are shipped)
A thick ziplock bag
A thin ziplock bag
Uprotected

 

[cwbullet]

In order of preference.

I would add:
Stored in a low Humidity Camera Box as number 1. I have one with 10% or lower humidity and it keeps things very dry.

Straight out of dehydrator
A sealed container with desiccant in it
A mylar ziplock bag
A vacuum sealed bag( the way they are shipped)
A thick ziplock bag
A thin ziplock bag
Uprotected

 

[OzHybrid]

I would add:
Stored in a low Humidity Camera Box as number 1. I have one with 10% or lower humidity and it keeps things very dry.

Don't know what that is..... Picture, amazon link...

 

[wsume99]

I would add:
Stored in a low Humidity Camera Box as number 1. I have one with 10% or lower humidity and it keeps things very dry.

Isn't that basically equivalent to a sealed container (possibly with desiccant) which was the second thing on his list?

I think the point here is that it's not practical to dry filament every time before use. So the best practice is to store filament in a sealed container until it's needed. Oz listed multiple types of containers that have varying levels of sealing and keep the moisture out. Every container is going to allow some air (which includes moisture unless you live in a very dry climate) in over time. If you're using a container that seals extremely well maybe desiccant is not needed to prevent water absorption in the filament. If the container doesn't seal as well then you are going to have to figure out how you want to deal with that. Either add a desiccant to absorb the moisture inside the container as it enters over time or you're eventually going to need to dry the filament if you keep it long enough. I suppose there is another option, just live with the effects of moisture in your filament.

 

[cwbullet]

Don't know what that is..... Picture, amazon link...

No - I am referring to a Dry Box or Cabinet.

Isn't that basically equivalent to a sealed container (possibly with desiccant) which was the second thing on his list?

I think the point here is that it's not practical to dry filament every time before use. So the best practice is to store filament in a sealed container until it's needed. Oz listed multiple types of containers that have varying levels of sealing and keep the moisture out. Every container is going to allow some air (which includes moisture unless you live in a very dry climate) in over time. If you're using a container that seals extremely well maybe desiccant is not needed to prevent water absorption in the filament. If the container doesn't seal as well then you are going to have to figure out how you want to deal with that. Either add a desiccant to absorb the moisture inside the container as it enters over time or you're eventually going to need to dry the filament if you keep it long enough. I suppose there is another option, just live with the effects of moisture in your filament.

For standard PLA or PETG, it is not needed if your print often. If your printer sits idle for weeks or it takes you months to use a spool, you still might find it neccessary.

As I said above in another post, pure PETG and PLA are not the ones you worry about as much. I print a lot of exodic filaments that have carbon fiber, polycabonate, or nylon in them. They can be more senative to moisture in the air. I have rolls of filament that cost north of $100 a KG. You do not want to print a print and waste filament after you find it was too moist. Heck, I have PETG with carbon fiber in it that is $60 a roll. It is worthless until it is dry.

Lastly, you may find a need to dry new spools. I find that about 1 in 6 to 10 rolls arrives wet. Placing it in the dry box for 1-2 days can make it print much better.

I have tested every dry box you can buy and I found that the Camera Boxes work better. There are even several that will let you print from them. I am contimpating ording one for Nylon. If you want a smaller version, I have had good success from the Eibos Filament dryer. Having a good one can pay for itself if you plan to print exodic filaments.

 

[kjhambrick]

If you tell me what you want to create, I can save you a bit of time, assist, or say you're crazy....

Thanks @OzHybrid !

@MarsLander pointed me to a couple threads and I learned that your SCAD shares are already here, along with zillions of other .scad files.

In addition, @manixFan pointed at an OpenSCAD tutorial: Mastering OpenSCAD and I've got everything I need until I know how to ask relevant questions

IOW, I've got more than I need for now !

THANKS AGAIN for this Thread, Y'All !

-- kjh( no need to tell me that I am crazy -- that's a given )

 

[wsume99]

I know there will be dome time spent learning and doing and whatnot... but... When i decided to get the 3d printer it was that i wanted more so of a tool. In past ive paid others to make and print stuff for me. But sometimes timelines of when i need stuff or what i really want may differ in my head then theirs made me dicide to go ahead and get one... trust me lol i have resisted up to this point as i didnt want to take on more. Still not planning on making this another hobby so to speak. More of a skill and tool like i would look at soldering or fabrication of things used in rocketry. I want to be able to do enough with it to make the things i need for my life long rocketry obsession. Rocketry and all i do in Rocketry building, flying, extreme projects, mixing and making propellant/motors, being a TAP/L3CC is enough to keep me busy.. id like to be able to make my own propellant tools, av bay parts and similar stuff.

Hopefully with a little bit i should be able to do that.

I think that's a reasonable goal and the same reason I got a printer several years ago.

You have a couple big picture decisions to make:
1) What CAD software will you use to design parts? Sounds like you are leaning toward Fusion 360.

2) What slicer are you going to use turn your designs into printer code? Your choices are Bambu Labs Studio and OrcaSlicer. There are probably others but those are the two most common for Bambu Labs printers. I'm actually in the middle of this decision myself and I'm leaning towards Orca.

 

[wsume99]

No - I am referring to a Dry Box or Cabinet.

For standard PLA or PETG, it is not needed if your print often. If your printer sits idle for weeks or it takes you months to use a spool, you still might find it neccessary.

As I said above in another post, pure PETG and PLA are not the ones you worry about as much. I print a lot of exodic filaments that have carbon fiber, polycabonate, or nylon in them. They can be more senative to moisture in the air. I have rolls of filament that cost north of $100 a KG. You do not want to print a print and waste filament after you find it was too moist. Heck, I have PETG with carbon fiber in it that is $60 a roll. It is worthless until it is dry.

Lastly, you may find a need to dry new spools. I find that about 1 in 6 to 10 rolls arrives wet. Placing it in the dry box for 1-2 days can make it print much better.

I have tested every dry box you can buy and I found that the Camera Boxes work better. There are even several that will let you print from them. I am contimpating ording one for Nylon. If you want a smaller version, I have had good success from the Eibos Filament dryer. Having a good one can pay for itself if you plan to print exodic filaments.

Ahh, so you basically have a dehumidification cabinet. That makes much more sense now and would obviously be way better than desiccant inside a sealed container. It's also significantly more expensive. There are other ways to dry filament, even exotic filament, but those would be more of a hassle if you're producing a lot of parts. Seems like the cabinet is better suited for someone who operates a print farm as opposed to a single printer.

 

[MarsLander]

@MarsLander pointed me to a couple threads and I learned that your SCAD shares are already here, along with zillions of other .scad files.

Where?

 

[kjhambrick]

Where?

Dooh !

Actually it was @kalsow who pointed me at Norm's SCAD file repository and 3D printing

Sorry ...

-- kjh

 

[cwbullet]

Ahh, so you basically have a dehumidification cabinet. That makes much more sense now and would obviously be way better than desiccant inside a sealed container. It's also significantly more expensive. There are other ways to dry filament, even exotic filament, but those would be more of a hassle if you're producing a lot of parts. Seems like the cabinet is better suited for someone who operates a print farm as opposed to a single printer.

Yes and no. It is useful for print farms and hobbyists using more expensive filaments. If I buy a spool of $150 filament, I do not want to find out the is wet after I have used a tenth of the spool printing.

 

[wsume99]

Yes and no. It is useful for print farms and hobbyists using more expensive filaments. If I buy a spool of $150 filament, I do not want to find out the is wet after I have used a tenth of the spool printing.

A hobbyist doesn't need to spend $300 for a drying cabinet to have dry filament. There are alternatives to using a cabinet. Not having a cabinet doesn't prevent a hobbyist from using another drying method before using a new spool.

 

[cwbullet]

A hobbyist doesn't need to spend $300 for a drying cabinet to have dry filament. There are alternatives to using a cabinet. Not having a cabinet doesn't prevent a hobbyist from using another drying method before using a new spool.

You seem to be an expert. How much experience do you have with exodic filaments? You can try drying and keeping a 150-dollar roll nylon bend with carbon fiber dry without one. One night without that cabinet, and it will be wet.

I used to use Silica gel bags and dehydrators. The dry cabinets work better at drying wet filament and they keep them dry with less effort. Well worth the $468 I spent on my top-grade cabinet.

 

[cwbullet]

Picked up a black Friday sale on a Bambu labs P1S. Think it should do what i need. Not looking to make it a new hobby. But more of a tool. Questions would be.

Where is the best place to get Filaments? Price abd reliability function for the machine are important.

Best how to learn CAD? Specifically looking at fusion 360. Im a complete noob.

How much pc do i need?

Any specific requirements on where to place my printer? What kind of stand?

Any other thoughts or tips are welcome.

Congrats on the new printer. You will love the P1S to start.

CAD? I would start with TinkerCad to just get used to it. You can make 99% of what you need to make in it with little to know knowledge. I use it on my Ipad, Mac, and cellphone (hard on the phone).

 

[Conway Stevens]

I think that's a reasonable goal and the same reason I got a printer several years ago.

You have a couple big picture decisions to make:
1) What CAD software will you use to design parts? Sounds like you are leaning toward Fusion 360.

2) What slicer are you going to use turn your designs into printer code? Your choices are Bambu Labs Studio and OrcaSlicer. There are probably others but those are the two most common for Bambu Labs printers. I'm actually in the middle of this decision myself and I'm leaning towards Orca.

I have not decided on a CAD program yet still looking.

Most likely will be using the Bambu Studio slicer. Everything ive seen in it has had good reviews.

 

[Conway Stevens]

Congrats on the new printer. You will love the P1S to start.

CAD? I would start with TinkerCad to just get used to it. You can make 99% of what you need to make in it with little to know knowledge. I use it on my Ipad, Mac, and cellphone (hard on the phone).

Appreciate the advice. Will check Tinker CAD out.


Appreciate everyones advice and info.

Outside of thingverse are there other great places to find high power rocketry related things? Stuff that i can modify or try out?

 

[OzHybrid]

Find a flavour of cad that works for you.. SCAD works for me, can be parametric like the nosecone designer and fincan designer. Fusion is a great program, but not for me. Same with tinkercad.
In SCAD I can change the diameter or length of a nosecone with one click(ok makbe 2)

 

[cwbullet]

Find a flavour of cad that works for you.. SCAD works for me, can be parametric like the nosecone designer and fincan designer. Fusion is a great program, but not for me. Same with tinkercad.
In SCAD I can change the diameter or length of a nosecone with one click(ok makbe 2)

I like and us openscad also, but it does have a little larger learning curve than TinkerCad. I started with TinkerCad and still use it, but now use OpenScad and Fusion 360.

 

[wsume99]

Outside of thingverse are there other great places to find high power rocketry related things? Stuff that i can modify or try out?

I'd try Printables. It's managed/owned by Prusa but it's not exclusive to Prusa and it seems to be gaining popularity as compared to Thingiverse which appears to be losing popularity. Many people still use Thingiverse but it's had issues for many years with outages and random issues that seem to take a long time to correct. Bambu Labs also launched their own 3D printing repository a few months ago, I don't remember what it is called and I've never used it.

 

[wsume99]

You seem to be an expert. How much experience do you have with exodic filaments? You can try drying and keeping a 150-dollar roll nylon bend with carbon fiber dry without one. One night without that cabinet, and it will be wet.

I used to use Silica gel bags and dehydrators. The dry cabinets work better at drying wet filament and they keep them dry with less effort. Well worth the $468 I spent on my top-grade cabinet.

I have never used Nylon at home. At home I only use PLA, PETG and ABS, so far. However at work I have access to literally anything you can imagine - polymer or metal - and we absolutely use a dehumidification cabinet for storing hygroscopic filaments. In my mind a hobbyist is someone who has one or two rolls of an exotic material and does not necessarily need to buy a drying cabinet. Will the other methods be more of a hassle, sure and that's what I said earlier. But if I'm only using these kinds of materials once in a blue moon then I'll just deal with the hassle. If I was going to use these kinds of materials frequently then yeah, I'd probably invest in a small drying cabinet just to make my life easier. But then I would not consider myself a hobbyist, I'd be more like someone operating a print farm.

 

[NTP2]

I have never used Nylon at home. At home I only use PLA, PETG and ABS, so far. However at work I have access to literally anything you can imagine - polymer or metal - and we absolutely use a dehumidification cabinet for storing hygroscopic filaments. In my mind a hobbyist is someone who has one or two rolls of an exotic material and does not necessarily need to buy a drying cabinet. Will the other methods be more of a hassle, sure and that's what I said earlier. But if I'm only using these kinds of materials once in a blue moon then I'll just deal with the hassle. If I was going to use these kinds of materials frequently then yeah, I'd probably invest in a small drying cabinet just to make my life easier. But then I would not consider myself a hobbyist, I'd be more like someone operating a print farm.

I concur @cwbullet didn’t make his title “obsessed with rocketry” for nothing, it appears that he needs to add a (and 3d printing) to the end.

 

[cwbullet]

I have never used Nylon at home. At home I only use PLA, PETG and ABS, so far. However at work I have access to literally anything you can imagine - polymer or metal - and we absolutely use a dehumidification cabinet for storing hygroscopic filaments. In my mind a hobbyist is someone who has one or two rolls of an exotic material and does not necessarily need to buy a drying cabinet. Will the other methods be more of a hassle, sure and that's what I said earlier. But if I'm only using these kinds of materials once in a blue moon then I'll just deal with the hassle. If I was going to use these kinds of materials frequently then yeah, I'd probably invest in a small drying cabinet just to make my life easier. But then I would not consider myself a hobbyist, I'd be more like someone operating a print farm.

Understood. Once I start making a profit and selling my wares more widely, I will consider it something other than a hobby.

On a lighter not, I got my second MK4 assembled from a Mk3 upgrade. Pretty slick process.

 

[roytyson]

Also, use Orcaslicr, way better than any other slicer I have used. I just downloaded Shapr3D, seems to be a bridge between Tinkercad and Fusion. I got 14 days to try it out. But slimple enough my brick head can figure it out I think.

 

[wsume99]

On a lighter not, I got my second MK4 assembled from a Mk3 upgrade. Pretty slick process.

That's good to hear. I don't own a Prusa but if I did the upgradeability would be one of the reasons I would get one.

 

[cwbullet]

That's good to hear. I don't own a Prusa but if I did the upgradeability would be one of the reasons I would get one.

It really is the plus for their system. I have one printer that started as MK2S then upgraded to an Mk3 To Mk3S to Mk3S+. Now it is an MK4. It’s is over 5 years old and still printing.

 

[OzHybrid]

It really is the plus for their system. I have one printer that started as MK2S then upgraded to an Mk3 To Mk3S to Mk3S+. Now it is an MK4. It’s is over 5 years old and still printing.

Prusa make great printers, but they're bed slingers. This limits speed as objects get higher and heavier. I once printed a hybrid reload in ABS that was 1Kg (full roll) on a bed slinger. Took 5 days. Never again. Core XY printers are the way to go if you have the budget.

 

[MarsLander]

@OzHybrid Can you explain bed slinger and core XY?