H_Rocket
Death by Powerpoint
See, I told you things would begin to slip. The bicycle is a jealous mistress.
Nice People for Bikes sticker!
Nice People for Bikes sticker!
So, my first time riding a bike in 40 years, and this is what happened....
- Thread starter georgegassaway
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Have to admit, at first I didn't know what you meant. Then I clicked on the link.
Ah, the logo on the bike bell. I had seen it before and some mentions of them, but not really checked out the organization.
Well, the bell was among a number of things Chan Stevens sent to me, as pay-forward left overs from upgrades he's done to his bikes. That bell has been pretty useful riding on trails and doing laps on the local park .77 mile track (After a recalibration of my bike computer I found the track is not quite 8/10). Among other things from Chan, the front headlight (Cateye) is very nice.
- George Gassaway
H_Rocket
Death by Powerpoint
People for Bikes is a very good grassroots organization that is trying to improve the riding ecology. Well worth your support. A bunch of good info on their web page.
cbrarick
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George:
Please, please, please take the key out of your helmet. It's waay not safe. If you crash, you have just injected a key into your head. Helmets aren't meant to have foreign objects taped to them. This is uber important, call the rest the ramblings of a former racer, but please take the key out.
A much better place for the key is your saddle bag.
rick
Please, please, please take the key out of your helmet. It's waay not safe. If you crash, you have just injected a key into your head. Helmets aren't meant to have foreign objects taped to them. This is uber important, call the rest the ramblings of a former racer, but please take the key out.
A much better place for the key is your saddle bag.
rick
Rick's got a good point!
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Look at the picture again.
The key is not inside the helmet. The key is under the visor on the outside of the shell. But thank you for your concerns.
BTW - I am having computer problems tonight, sending this by iPod touch so keeping it short.
The key is not inside the helmet. The key is under the visor on the outside of the shell. But thank you for your concerns.
BTW - I am having computer problems tonight, sending this by iPod touch so keeping it short.
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cbrarick
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George:
NOTHING solid goes on the helmet. I have a couple of "used" helmets that the fronts are smashed flat. That's what supposed to happen: the foam squishes and the plastic crumples. You have now inserted a key on the short edge to become the cutting object in you head. Two of those helmets came when riding home within a mile of my home.
NOTHING solid goes on the helmet. I have a couple of "used" helmets that the fronts are smashed flat. That's what supposed to happen: the foam squishes and the plastic crumples. You have now inserted a key on the short edge to become the cutting object in you head. Two of those helmets came when riding home within a mile of my home.
cbrarick
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Looked at the Specialized owner's manual
https://www.specialized.com/media/docs/support/0000037287/Helmet_Manual_14.pdf
One of the warnings "don't attach anything to the helmet including mirrors and lights"
https://www.specialized.com/media/docs/support/0000037287/Helmet_Manual_14.pdf
One of the warnings "don't attach anything to the helmet including mirrors and lights"
H_Rocket
Death by Powerpoint
Here is a really neat TED talk by Bekka Wright (Author of the Bike Commuter Blog "Bikeyface")
Moving People
Moving People
Pat_B
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I'd be careful with too many lights too. Drivers have become accustomed to the 'typical' bicycle lights that are normally in use. If you make your lights too significant then your bike can appear to be a motorcycle or trailer from the rear. I wouldn't want a driver approaching me from the rear thinking that I was a larger vehicle driving at the same speed as them. The blinking lights that are most common are well known by most folks to be bicycle lights.
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Move the key. Tie it to the bike, put it in a saddle bag, put it in some foam and stuff it down the steerer tube. But nothing goes on the helmet, inside or out.
One of my riding buddies is an ER doc. He would always ride with one of those mirrors on his helmet. One ride I noticed he didn't have it. I asked him what happened, did it get knocked off? He said no, he took it off. He had spent 90 minutes earlier in the week treating a cyclist who had crashed. The guy was unconscious when he came in, and the ER staff couldn't get his helmet off. They were cutting the helmet off when they finally figured out what was holding it on his head. He had one of those little mirrors on his helmet. In the crash it punched through the helmet, into his skull, and was embedded about 3/4" in his brain.
Nothing goes on the helmet.
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The spare key thing, I didn't "dismiss" it. I did give it a lot of thought, even after I posted my reply. And I appreciate the concerns. Putting the key into a bag that then goes onto the bike….. is a great idea until the day that inevitably I do not put the bag on the bike and I'm locked out of my car. Indeed ironically, the very day I showed my hidden-in-visor key to some riders of a group ride, after the ride was over, one of the riders had locked his key in his car. It was in a BAG! About my only other option key-wise is to hide the key on the bike. But I'm reluctant to do that for the times I will stop at stores along the way, in case someone discovered the car key on the bike and then…… I come back to an empty parking space where my car was.
The other night, I did a test-ride at night to try out a secondary headlight as a back-up to the great Cat-Eye headlight that Chan Stevens paid-forward to send to me. That headlight worked out well, lighting up the roadway (this was on a 2-lane rural road with little traffic). This was also the first time I was riding in full darkness with the new light system. I needed to stop along the side of the road (off the road itself) for a minute to take care of something, do not recall what. As I was stopped, a car came up form behind. And got REALLY slow, on seeing the lights.
Now maybe it was a case of Lookie-Loo, or being really careful, or whatever. But they definitely slowed down a lot because of the lights stopped along the side of the road.
Now, I already decided to change the sequence up so that only the middle set of lights will flash, but have not made the changes yet. The 2" curricular outer red lights under the 2" circular amber lights will not flash with the flashers. I am going to wire those 2" red ones in with the amber turn signals, so that it will will more obvious that those are turn signals, from the rear a left turn will be indicated by the left amber and left red 2" circular lights flashing. As well, I'm going to cause all turn signal lights to be on as constant dim lights at night only. I did a test with some resistors and found a resistor value that produces only 10% of the full power (bright) current draw yet just the right amount of visible-enough dim light as contrasted with full power bright light. Indeed a lot of vehicle turn signals at night involve lights that flash dim-bright-dim-bright rather than on-off-on-off (I've paid a lot of attention the last couple of weeks to how turn signal lights, colors, and sequences vary among vehicles, but in all cases it's obvious when a turn is indicated).
It still will not be my ideal sequence but the most practical without using significantly more complicated electronics (Like programming an Arduino).
Friday, I rode to Target in part to get some small grocery items. It was overcast and sorta dark for that time of day, 3.5 hours before sunset. The same sort of day when I was riding a few weeks ago and decided that whatever I did for lights, I wanted to make them plenty visible in daytime too, at least for conditions like that (and within reason for battery power and size). As I rode thru some areas of higher traffic and intersections I had the lights on in night flashing mode. Now did it make a difference? I'll never know. And certainly won't let lights cause a false sense of security over being careful to begin with. But I'm doing what I can to be pro-actively safer too (the lights) in addition to being defensively safe.
Now if that makes it a "CLOWN BIKE", then so be it. I wish more people rode "clown Bikes", then. Or at least during group rides when some in the group who are ahead of me, who SUDDENLY SLOW for no apparent reason or make a SUDDEN STOP WITH NO WARNING (two close calls in group rides the last week, not from me being inattentive but those in front just slowing or stopping too fast with no warning like they should, many caught off-guard. One was caused by the group leader about to miss a turn on a narrow trail so he stopped to turn rather than blow past it but nobody said anything that I heard). Yes, the very reason I added my brake lights and warning beeper because I wasn't good at quickly saying I was stopping…… turns out very few say anything, especially when it's a rapid-evolving accordion stop. This is why cars and trucks and even Formula-1 Race Cars have brake lights. OK, mini-rant over, I do not really expect other riders to have brake lights, but I am more convinced than ever why I should and do have them on mine (at least when I"m in the middle of a group accordian-stop, I'm warning everyone behind me automatically).
I've done some more rides during the week, and added another upgrade to the bike, but I'll cover those later (Another group ride Sunday). Maybe the upgrade will be considered by most as a serious improvement and not derided as clown-ware…..
- George Gassaway
The other night, I did a test-ride at night to try out a secondary headlight as a back-up to the great Cat-Eye headlight that Chan Stevens paid-forward to send to me. That headlight worked out well, lighting up the roadway (this was on a 2-lane rural road with little traffic). This was also the first time I was riding in full darkness with the new light system. I needed to stop along the side of the road (off the road itself) for a minute to take care of something, do not recall what. As I was stopped, a car came up form behind. And got REALLY slow, on seeing the lights.
Now maybe it was a case of Lookie-Loo, or being really careful, or whatever. But they definitely slowed down a lot because of the lights stopped along the side of the road.
Now, I already decided to change the sequence up so that only the middle set of lights will flash, but have not made the changes yet. The 2" curricular outer red lights under the 2" circular amber lights will not flash with the flashers. I am going to wire those 2" red ones in with the amber turn signals, so that it will will more obvious that those are turn signals, from the rear a left turn will be indicated by the left amber and left red 2" circular lights flashing. As well, I'm going to cause all turn signal lights to be on as constant dim lights at night only. I did a test with some resistors and found a resistor value that produces only 10% of the full power (bright) current draw yet just the right amount of visible-enough dim light as contrasted with full power bright light. Indeed a lot of vehicle turn signals at night involve lights that flash dim-bright-dim-bright rather than on-off-on-off (I've paid a lot of attention the last couple of weeks to how turn signal lights, colors, and sequences vary among vehicles, but in all cases it's obvious when a turn is indicated).
It still will not be my ideal sequence but the most practical without using significantly more complicated electronics (Like programming an Arduino).
Friday, I rode to Target in part to get some small grocery items. It was overcast and sorta dark for that time of day, 3.5 hours before sunset. The same sort of day when I was riding a few weeks ago and decided that whatever I did for lights, I wanted to make them plenty visible in daytime too, at least for conditions like that (and within reason for battery power and size). As I rode thru some areas of higher traffic and intersections I had the lights on in night flashing mode. Now did it make a difference? I'll never know. And certainly won't let lights cause a false sense of security over being careful to begin with. But I'm doing what I can to be pro-actively safer too (the lights) in addition to being defensively safe.
Now if that makes it a "CLOWN BIKE", then so be it. I wish more people rode "clown Bikes", then. Or at least during group rides when some in the group who are ahead of me, who SUDDENLY SLOW for no apparent reason or make a SUDDEN STOP WITH NO WARNING (two close calls in group rides the last week, not from me being inattentive but those in front just slowing or stopping too fast with no warning like they should, many caught off-guard. One was caused by the group leader about to miss a turn on a narrow trail so he stopped to turn rather than blow past it but nobody said anything that I heard). Yes, the very reason I added my brake lights and warning beeper because I wasn't good at quickly saying I was stopping…… turns out very few say anything, especially when it's a rapid-evolving accordion stop. This is why cars and trucks and even Formula-1 Race Cars have brake lights. OK, mini-rant over, I do not really expect other riders to have brake lights, but I am more convinced than ever why I should and do have them on mine (at least when I"m in the middle of a group accordian-stop, I'm warning everyone behind me automatically).
I've done some more rides during the week, and added another upgrade to the bike, but I'll cover those later (Another group ride Sunday). Maybe the upgrade will be considered by most as a serious improvement and not derided as clown-ware…..
- George Gassaway
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H_Rocket
Death by Powerpoint
One last comment on the key...
You say if you hide the key somewhere on the bike, that someone may find it and you would come back to an empty parking place. Given the amount of hardware you have mounted on your ride, you should be able to find a spot in it to bury a key and leave it there. I really can't see even a slim possibility that someone would take your bike apart looking for something and find the key.
Of course you could either tie the key to your shoelace or attach it to one of those coiled things around your wrist. I have to say your points on the key seem like you had an idea and will rationalize it to any extent. Think about it. There is not a person here who has been less than supportive on you climbing on the saddle and riding. Likewise not a single rider has even given grudging support to the key idea. We are looking out for you. The key mounted to your headgear is a bad idea. Please find something else.
You say if you hide the key somewhere on the bike, that someone may find it and you would come back to an empty parking place. Given the amount of hardware you have mounted on your ride, you should be able to find a spot in it to bury a key and leave it there. I really can't see even a slim possibility that someone would take your bike apart looking for something and find the key.
Of course you could either tie the key to your shoelace or attach it to one of those coiled things around your wrist. I have to say your points on the key seem like you had an idea and will rationalize it to any extent. Think about it. There is not a person here who has been less than supportive on you climbing on the saddle and riding. Likewise not a single rider has even given grudging support to the key idea. We are looking out for you. The key mounted to your headgear is a bad idea. Please find something else.
mkadams001
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I don't think that the red light on the back of a F1 car is a brake light. It is used in the rain or during low visibility or in the pits. I am not sure but it may come on when they lift off the throttle if the car is in DRS.
As long as you are enjoying the ride and doing what you do with your bike is ok by me. It is supposed to be fun and not about what someone else thinks.
If you have a seat bag, that will solve a lot of storage problems.
As long as you are enjoying the ride and doing what you do with your bike is ok by me. It is supposed to be fun and not about what someone else thinks.
If you have a seat bag, that will solve a lot of storage problems.
cbrarick
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George:
Get yourself one of those football plastic change thingys that we all had when we were kids. Put your key there and throw it in your jersey pocket. The rubber will keep it from coming out and also keep it dry.....
Get yourself one of those football plastic change thingys that we all had when we were kids. Put your key there and throw it in your jersey pocket. The rubber will keep it from coming out and also keep it dry.....
cbrarick
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George:
I was looking at the Alabama code Title 15A section 32-5A-265 and it allows for one white light in front, a red reflector in back with an optional red light "when at use at night-time." I wonder if the rest of your rig isn't a violation. The Alabama Bicycle Coalition may be able to answer your question on that one.
On your rant about other riders, there's a quick fix. Ride with better riders. Find the local "C" ride and give it a whirl. Don't expect squirrels to be something other then squirrels. As you move up thru the ranks you will be with riders who won't break suddenly or do other silly things that put you in jeopardy. When I ride with questionable riders, I give them a LOT of room, all the time and plot my escape for when they do silly things. You need to ride with your head up, cause you never know what the other riders and cars are doing. This is of utmost importance. I recently lost a friend during a prologue time trial, because he had his head down and never saw the car pull out. He was 82 years old and has raced for longer then I've been alive. The racer immediately behind him said that he never looked up, and hit the passenger window & B post. He thought that he could have saved himself by turning into the grass and dumping it.
RIP Pete, we'll miss you
I was looking at the Alabama code Title 15A section 32-5A-265 and it allows for one white light in front, a red reflector in back with an optional red light "when at use at night-time." I wonder if the rest of your rig isn't a violation. The Alabama Bicycle Coalition may be able to answer your question on that one.
On your rant about other riders, there's a quick fix. Ride with better riders. Find the local "C" ride and give it a whirl. Don't expect squirrels to be something other then squirrels. As you move up thru the ranks you will be with riders who won't break suddenly or do other silly things that put you in jeopardy. When I ride with questionable riders, I give them a LOT of room, all the time and plot my escape for when they do silly things. You need to ride with your head up, cause you never know what the other riders and cars are doing. This is of utmost importance. I recently lost a friend during a prologue time trial, because he had his head down and never saw the car pull out. He was 82 years old and has raced for longer then I've been alive. The racer immediately behind him said that he never looked up, and hit the passenger window & B post. He thought that he could have saved himself by turning into the grass and dumping it.
RIP Pete, we'll miss you
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Got in some more "C" group rides Wednesday, Thursday, and today (Sunday). Today's ride had a different group leader. She missed a turn but rather than stop fast, once she realized it she yelled for everyone else to turn left, as she safely slowed down and gave a couple of riders behind her the opportunity to slow too as they had all missed the turn. So what I'm saying is, that was handled just right given the situation, different from the other day when the group leader too-quickly stopped at a turn on a narrow trail, no warning, because he was not sure which way to go and there was a close call of a barely avoided accordian collision of several riders as a result.
Anyway, Thursday was a really nice new trail. Not a bunch of trail & road segments on a mostly looping course like the other group rides (those are fun, simply this was the first that was a ride on one single trail that was mostly in the same general direction) . It is on an old railroad line, but unlike another railroad based trail that does not have much of the paved trail on the original bed, this trail is about 90% on the old railbed. Nicely paved. And, VERY flat! Not pool-table flat, but the flattest I've ridden. And nice views. Rode a bit over 14 miles down it, and back, for over 28 miles. Whenever I want to try for a super-long (for me) one day record ride, this will probably be the trail I use. Actually, we were not going to do an exact ride back the same way, were going to check out something else and would have done maybe 35-ish miles. But the skies started to get overcast really quick and threatened rain, so that side trip was cut and we made it back in time (I finally have gotten a cheap compact rain poncho to add to the bike gear, for the inevitable).
I keep learning new things… sometimes dumb mistakes or inexperience. So, when I was a kid, I inflated the tires….. when they felt really low (and then there was.... the kaboom incident). I had not checked the tire pressures since I got the bike and inflated them 6 weeks ago. Before Thursday's ride, someone pumped up their tires, and that reminded me, yet again, that I needed to check the tires on mine (Kept thinking of that mid-ride but forgetting after). Saturday I finally did, 40 PSI for the back and 35 for the front! The tires are rated 40 to 65 PSI. I didn't want to push things, so I inflated them to 55 PSI (Had a tire blow in my face when I was 12 or so, using a gas station air hose, literally saw blackness for a few seconds as by terrible luck and coincidence the tire blew a blast of air right into my face and eyes. So I'm leery of inflating tires, wear glasses and face away).
Anyway, the bike rode more easily after that. I mentioned that today to one of the riders and he said he checks his every couple of days. Also he's riding on 1" wide tires and is a bit overweight, as a consequence he over-inflates his by an extra 5-10 PSI above the rating.
And now for the latest piece of "clown equipment" I've added. :wink: I really like the basic Schwinn bike computer I have, but have wanted to have additional capability. Tested out some cycling apps with my iPod Touch. But…. the Touch cannot do GPS, so there was not much else that those apps could do without GPS. Well, with a bluetooth sensor they could do speed and distance the same as the Schwinn, but there wasn't much point.
The one that I liked the most, and highly rated, was cyclemeter, for iPhones. Here is a link to a review by PC Magazine: https://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2406203,00.asp
After trying out what I could on the iPod Touch (how easy it is to set up various data displays, and other features including maps and importing/exporting of files), I decided to go with that. I bought an iPhone. Now, I should point out that my real cell phone is an old flip-phone and I use a prepaid T-mobile account for 1000 minutes for under $100, which usually lasts a year. I only use that cell phone sparingly, using a landline or Skype for longer talks. So, I was not in the market to get an iPhone to use with a cellphone carrier and pay hundreds of bucks a year for the service and oh-by-the-way also have it double as a bike cycling computer. Indeed many who might use cycling apps do not do it from fear of busting their precious expensive cell phone.
In my research into cyclemeter, I realized that while it is definitely kept up to date with new features (and runs on iPhone 6), it really proved itself about when the iPhone 4 was first out. A lot of proven hardware, still available, that works with cyclemeter and iPhone 4's, at good prices. So, I went on eBay and got a refurbished iPhone 4 for $55 including shipping. Got it Friday, spent some time setting it up, mostly repeating what I'd learned with the Touch. I'm not using it with any carrier, so it's communicating by using WiFi wherever I can get free WiFi (and ideally prepare for a ride before leaving home, to pre-fetch map data of the planned riding areas).
Ordered a handlebar mount for it but won't get that for a few days. In the interim, modified another kind of cell phone holder so it could sit in the front basket. Did a ride to Target and back, and it recorded the ride very well. This composite of 3 images is from the ride, after getting to Target. The Schwinn and Cyclemeter agreed well.
Saturday, before leaving, I used MapMyRide to create a course to ride. About half of the course was in an area I'd not ridden before, for about a 10 mile loop. That went very well. I had it set up to give audio notifications at each mile, with average speed, distance, and some other info. Still need to tweak that. I used one ear bud in my right ear so I could hear it well, left my left ear open to hear traffic (have a bit of a hearing loss in my right ear so I'm not missing much sound traffic-wise).
Before leaving, to save battery power, I put the iPhone into airplane mode. I got 3/4 mile down the road before realizing the distance was zero and the location on the map had not moved. Oops, airplane mode disabled the GPS. So, airplane mode off, that fixed it. But lost 3/4 mile on the course recording. At one point the road became a dirt road.... did not expect that. Double-checked the route to make sure I had not gotten off course, it was correct.
On the group ride today, no preplanned course, so I had it recording. Well, on the ride back, the group got dispersed. When the trail came out at 90 degrees to a road, I didn't know whether to go across on the other side of the road to the continuation of that trail, go left, or go right. The "sweeper" group leader in back, was with a straggler (hey, usually that's me! And often today it was me. But better in any case with the tires inflated more). I should have waited for them to get there. But then I saw one of the guys of the group, the one I'd been following most of the way, in fluorescent yellow shirt and dark shorts, riding off and away to the right about 200 yards away. So, I went to the right, to try to catch up with him. Rode at least half a mile, maybe 3/4 mile, and saw him go across a busy road, still going strong, and no sign of the primary group leader and two other riders that I expected would have waited at that intersection for everyone to catch up. Then I realized the sun angle, still high but angled enough to be able to tell I was riding north-ish, when it should have been more south-ish. Yep, by terrible coincidence, it was a totally different rider with the same colored clothing that I'd tried to follow.
UGH! So, I turned around and got back to where I had been when I rode the wrong way. Then made use of the cyclemeter's map trace of the recorded ride to find out where I needed to head to get back the way we had come. So, it was a REALLY good thing that I had the iPhone and Cyclemeter going (this is part of the reason why I had been using a Garmin Etrex Summit hiking GPS, to help get back if lost). Finally got back, and we all discussed what had happened. I feel it was more my mistake than anyone else's, I should have waited for the sweeper ride leader to come up with the straggler. But I also suspect on future rides the front leader will stop more often when the group is stretched out and there is no "obvious" direction to go at a major crossing or turning point (they had gone left, but down a slight hill that blocked my view of them by that time). One of them tried to call my cell phone…… which I had forgotten to take (left it in my pants in my car, as I had changed to wearing sport shorts ).
One other option I do have for communication is that in a real emergency (if my cell phone was forgotten or dead), that carrier-less phones should be able to call 911 (required by law). I also found out that I could make collect calls, I tested that the other night by calling my cell phone, and indeed it rang (I did not answer since I only wanted to find out if it rang). It would be an expensive call (roaming and collect) but worth it for problems not suitable for 911.
So, I'm pleased at how well that has worked out. I still need to learn a few things. Such as how in a similar situation where I'm not using a pre-programmed course, but simply starting from a spot and recording, how to get it to actively navigate me back to the starting point rather than looking at the outward path as a map to follow back. I plan to get a speed/cadence sensor set that works with iPhone 4, for under $20. But I won't replace the Schwinn computer, that will remain my primary indicator for basic speed/distance during the ride.
- George Gassaway
Examples of some data:
Anyway, Thursday was a really nice new trail. Not a bunch of trail & road segments on a mostly looping course like the other group rides (those are fun, simply this was the first that was a ride on one single trail that was mostly in the same general direction) . It is on an old railroad line, but unlike another railroad based trail that does not have much of the paved trail on the original bed, this trail is about 90% on the old railbed. Nicely paved. And, VERY flat! Not pool-table flat, but the flattest I've ridden. And nice views. Rode a bit over 14 miles down it, and back, for over 28 miles. Whenever I want to try for a super-long (for me) one day record ride, this will probably be the trail I use. Actually, we were not going to do an exact ride back the same way, were going to check out something else and would have done maybe 35-ish miles. But the skies started to get overcast really quick and threatened rain, so that side trip was cut and we made it back in time (I finally have gotten a cheap compact rain poncho to add to the bike gear, for the inevitable).
I keep learning new things… sometimes dumb mistakes or inexperience. So, when I was a kid, I inflated the tires….. when they felt really low (and then there was.... the kaboom incident). I had not checked the tire pressures since I got the bike and inflated them 6 weeks ago. Before Thursday's ride, someone pumped up their tires, and that reminded me, yet again, that I needed to check the tires on mine (Kept thinking of that mid-ride but forgetting after). Saturday I finally did, 40 PSI for the back and 35 for the front! The tires are rated 40 to 65 PSI. I didn't want to push things, so I inflated them to 55 PSI (Had a tire blow in my face when I was 12 or so, using a gas station air hose, literally saw blackness for a few seconds as by terrible luck and coincidence the tire blew a blast of air right into my face and eyes. So I'm leery of inflating tires, wear glasses and face away).
Anyway, the bike rode more easily after that. I mentioned that today to one of the riders and he said he checks his every couple of days. Also he's riding on 1" wide tires and is a bit overweight, as a consequence he over-inflates his by an extra 5-10 PSI above the rating.
And now for the latest piece of "clown equipment" I've added. :wink: I really like the basic Schwinn bike computer I have, but have wanted to have additional capability. Tested out some cycling apps with my iPod Touch. But…. the Touch cannot do GPS, so there was not much else that those apps could do without GPS. Well, with a bluetooth sensor they could do speed and distance the same as the Schwinn, but there wasn't much point.
The one that I liked the most, and highly rated, was cyclemeter, for iPhones. Here is a link to a review by PC Magazine: https://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2406203,00.asp
After trying out what I could on the iPod Touch (how easy it is to set up various data displays, and other features including maps and importing/exporting of files), I decided to go with that. I bought an iPhone. Now, I should point out that my real cell phone is an old flip-phone and I use a prepaid T-mobile account for 1000 minutes for under $100, which usually lasts a year. I only use that cell phone sparingly, using a landline or Skype for longer talks. So, I was not in the market to get an iPhone to use with a cellphone carrier and pay hundreds of bucks a year for the service and oh-by-the-way also have it double as a bike cycling computer. Indeed many who might use cycling apps do not do it from fear of busting their precious expensive cell phone.
In my research into cyclemeter, I realized that while it is definitely kept up to date with new features (and runs on iPhone 6), it really proved itself about when the iPhone 4 was first out. A lot of proven hardware, still available, that works with cyclemeter and iPhone 4's, at good prices. So, I went on eBay and got a refurbished iPhone 4 for $55 including shipping. Got it Friday, spent some time setting it up, mostly repeating what I'd learned with the Touch. I'm not using it with any carrier, so it's communicating by using WiFi wherever I can get free WiFi (and ideally prepare for a ride before leaving home, to pre-fetch map data of the planned riding areas).
Ordered a handlebar mount for it but won't get that for a few days. In the interim, modified another kind of cell phone holder so it could sit in the front basket. Did a ride to Target and back, and it recorded the ride very well. This composite of 3 images is from the ride, after getting to Target. The Schwinn and Cyclemeter agreed well.
Saturday, before leaving, I used MapMyRide to create a course to ride. About half of the course was in an area I'd not ridden before, for about a 10 mile loop. That went very well. I had it set up to give audio notifications at each mile, with average speed, distance, and some other info. Still need to tweak that. I used one ear bud in my right ear so I could hear it well, left my left ear open to hear traffic (have a bit of a hearing loss in my right ear so I'm not missing much sound traffic-wise).
Before leaving, to save battery power, I put the iPhone into airplane mode. I got 3/4 mile down the road before realizing the distance was zero and the location on the map had not moved. Oops, airplane mode disabled the GPS. So, airplane mode off, that fixed it. But lost 3/4 mile on the course recording. At one point the road became a dirt road.... did not expect that. Double-checked the route to make sure I had not gotten off course, it was correct.
On the group ride today, no preplanned course, so I had it recording. Well, on the ride back, the group got dispersed. When the trail came out at 90 degrees to a road, I didn't know whether to go across on the other side of the road to the continuation of that trail, go left, or go right. The "sweeper" group leader in back, was with a straggler (hey, usually that's me! And often today it was me. But better in any case with the tires inflated more). I should have waited for them to get there. But then I saw one of the guys of the group, the one I'd been following most of the way, in fluorescent yellow shirt and dark shorts, riding off and away to the right about 200 yards away. So, I went to the right, to try to catch up with him. Rode at least half a mile, maybe 3/4 mile, and saw him go across a busy road, still going strong, and no sign of the primary group leader and two other riders that I expected would have waited at that intersection for everyone to catch up. Then I realized the sun angle, still high but angled enough to be able to tell I was riding north-ish, when it should have been more south-ish. Yep, by terrible coincidence, it was a totally different rider with the same colored clothing that I'd tried to follow.
UGH! So, I turned around and got back to where I had been when I rode the wrong way. Then made use of the cyclemeter's map trace of the recorded ride to find out where I needed to head to get back the way we had come. So, it was a REALLY good thing that I had the iPhone and Cyclemeter going (this is part of the reason why I had been using a Garmin Etrex Summit hiking GPS, to help get back if lost). Finally got back, and we all discussed what had happened. I feel it was more my mistake than anyone else's, I should have waited for the sweeper ride leader to come up with the straggler. But I also suspect on future rides the front leader will stop more often when the group is stretched out and there is no "obvious" direction to go at a major crossing or turning point (they had gone left, but down a slight hill that blocked my view of them by that time). One of them tried to call my cell phone…… which I had forgotten to take (left it in my pants in my car, as I had changed to wearing sport shorts ).
One other option I do have for communication is that in a real emergency (if my cell phone was forgotten or dead), that carrier-less phones should be able to call 911 (required by law). I also found out that I could make collect calls, I tested that the other night by calling my cell phone, and indeed it rang (I did not answer since I only wanted to find out if it rang). It would be an expensive call (roaming and collect) but worth it for problems not suitable for 911.
So, I'm pleased at how well that has worked out. I still need to learn a few things. Such as how in a similar situation where I'm not using a pre-programmed course, but simply starting from a spot and recording, how to get it to actively navigate me back to the starting point rather than looking at the outward path as a map to follow back. I plan to get a speed/cadence sensor set that works with iPhone 4, for under $20. But I won't replace the Schwinn computer, that will remain my primary indicator for basic speed/distance during the ride.
- George Gassaway
Examples of some data:
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cbrarick
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George:
Spend some time with maps. Learn what major roads and expressways are in your area. This gives you a baseline to shoot for. If you get lost, ride in a straight direction until you hit a baseline. Then you're found! It's a fun low tech way to find new routes, and to help you out when you get a little lost (happens to all of us) in connecticut, you're never more then 20 miles from a baseline, less if you know the state routes. Probably a little more in Alabama, but doabl. Like the route traces, just be careful to keep your head up!
Spend some time with maps. Learn what major roads and expressways are in your area. This gives you a baseline to shoot for. If you get lost, ride in a straight direction until you hit a baseline. Then you're found! It's a fun low tech way to find new routes, and to help you out when you get a little lost (happens to all of us) in connecticut, you're never more then 20 miles from a baseline, less if you know the state routes. Probably a little more in Alabama, but doabl. Like the route traces, just be careful to keep your head up!
Hey George,
Looks like someone's working on a combo headlight/stop light/turn signal bike helmet (funding in progress):
[video]https://www.facebook.com/gigigadgets/videos/879250812154209/[/video]
Looks like someone's working on a combo headlight/stop light/turn signal bike helmet (funding in progress):
[video]https://www.facebook.com/gigigadgets/videos/879250812154209/[/video]
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When I was checking out lighting systems, I ran across that lighted helmet. Neat thing. I wanted to have more visible lighting in daytime, including front turn signals that would be very visible in direct sunlight. Also, I really like how I can just "graze" the rear brake to turn the brake lights (and beeper) on, without actually slowing or slowing just a hair, I came to realize that was a drawback of deceleration sensor based system. Personal taste, to an extent, plus being able to think up and make what I want rather than use some existing system that does not work quite like I'd like it to (albeit that helmet is not even out yet). As it is…. I received some wimpy Motorcycle LED lights that didn't pass the daylight test, and yes they really were sold for real motorcycles….. just not very good (well, FINE for night use, but not sunny days). When I'm turning on a sunny day, I want front turn signals that are closer to being as good as most motorcycle turn signals on a sunny day, I do not want to take a hand off the bike to use hand signals most drivers do not understand (using left arm to signal a right turn, I'd bet 90% of drivers under 30 do not know what that means, and most drivers of all ages in daytme pay more attention to lights, not arms)
FWIW - an Aduino-based jacket with LED brake and turn signals on the jacket.
https://www.instructables.com/id/turn-signal-biking-jacket/
I added a simple App called iArrow: .https://iarw.me/ It is a very simple hiking/outdoor GPS app. Easy to press a button to set the GPS location of where you are, and rename it. Or can set GPS locations for other places in advance. So, anyway, I got that so I can set the location of where my car is before going for a ride, as a simple option for navigating back. Certainly could get some rocket flying use out of it too, set the launch area location to help getting back form a long complex recovery. Though there probably is a much better app for THAT, such as being able to project a GPS line of sight in the direction of where a rocket is seen to land (or direction last seen), so I'll look into that aspect later for rocket recovery.
Just tonight, I've added "NavMii", which is like a car nav app (I have a TomTom for my car. I even took the TomTom on a few bike rides). With stored map data so it works offline. I'll try learning more about it later.
So, here is the iPhone mount, it's a weatherproof zippered case. I cut a hole to allow for the charging cord. Eventually I am going to rearrange the handlebar "dashboard" so that the Schwinn computer will be left of center and iPhone right of center. For now, the Schwinn is in the middle on what was always intended to be an interim mount, and the iPhone mount attached to a cramped space right of center just for initial testing.
So, a group ride today (Wednesday), 15 people for 20 miles, pretty windy. One rider had a flat. I didn't think to ride back 100 yards to watch the whole process till it was later, by the time I did they were ready to partially inflate the new inner tube which was already on the rim and being placed inside the tire that was half on the rim, but at least I saw the fix from that point on. I have seen videos on doing tire repair and replacing tubes, but should have thought to watch the whole thing in real life from the beginning. Then a break at McDonald's. On the ride back, and mother and 6 year old son on the paved trail, the boy's bike's chain had come off and the chain guard was interfering with getting the chain back on. So, we all stopped and several riders took part in doing the fix to get the chain back on. Then rode back to the beginning and the ride was over. I had a pretty good time of it until one pretty steep bridge to climb up and over, otherwise I was in the front 1/3 to front half most of the ride, the route was mostly flat (had tires inflated to 65 PSI, their top rated limit, definitely helped from the lower pressures the tires had dropped to over previous weeks).
Below, pics from the stop, and a plot of the route that Cyclemeter recorded.
- George Gassaway
Group Ride route, 20 miles
FWIW - an Aduino-based jacket with LED brake and turn signals on the jacket.
https://www.instructables.com/id/turn-signal-biking-jacket/
I added a simple App called iArrow: .https://iarw.me/ It is a very simple hiking/outdoor GPS app. Easy to press a button to set the GPS location of where you are, and rename it. Or can set GPS locations for other places in advance. So, anyway, I got that so I can set the location of where my car is before going for a ride, as a simple option for navigating back. Certainly could get some rocket flying use out of it too, set the launch area location to help getting back form a long complex recovery. Though there probably is a much better app for THAT, such as being able to project a GPS line of sight in the direction of where a rocket is seen to land (or direction last seen), so I'll look into that aspect later for rocket recovery.
Just tonight, I've added "NavMii", which is like a car nav app (I have a TomTom for my car. I even took the TomTom on a few bike rides). With stored map data so it works offline. I'll try learning more about it later.
So, here is the iPhone mount, it's a weatherproof zippered case. I cut a hole to allow for the charging cord. Eventually I am going to rearrange the handlebar "dashboard" so that the Schwinn computer will be left of center and iPhone right of center. For now, the Schwinn is in the middle on what was always intended to be an interim mount, and the iPhone mount attached to a cramped space right of center just for initial testing.
So, a group ride today (Wednesday), 15 people for 20 miles, pretty windy. One rider had a flat. I didn't think to ride back 100 yards to watch the whole process till it was later, by the time I did they were ready to partially inflate the new inner tube which was already on the rim and being placed inside the tire that was half on the rim, but at least I saw the fix from that point on. I have seen videos on doing tire repair and replacing tubes, but should have thought to watch the whole thing in real life from the beginning. Then a break at McDonald's. On the ride back, and mother and 6 year old son on the paved trail, the boy's bike's chain had come off and the chain guard was interfering with getting the chain back on. So, we all stopped and several riders took part in doing the fix to get the chain back on. Then rode back to the beginning and the ride was over. I had a pretty good time of it until one pretty steep bridge to climb up and over, otherwise I was in the front 1/3 to front half most of the ride, the route was mostly flat (had tires inflated to 65 PSI, their top rated limit, definitely helped from the lower pressures the tires had dropped to over previous weeks).
Below, pics from the stop, and a plot of the route that Cyclemeter recorded.
- George Gassaway
Group Ride route, 20 miles
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A big update. Since my last post, I've done other rides, including a group ride yesterday. But this post is about a ride I did last Tuesday, the 20th.
I had indicated earlier that sometime next year, I'd like to try to ride my age. I had ridden over 40 miles a few weeks ago.
Well, more recently I began planning to go for it now, before winter. A key factor was riding a trail 2 weeks before that I'd not been on before. A former railroad line converted to a bike trail. it is very flat. Well, not pool table flat, but darned good. Of course for a long distance ride, I could have just done dozens of laps or back-and-forth lines, but I was intrigued by riding the whole line from one end to the other, which would add up close to my age.
Among other changes to the bike, I finally got a "trunk" bag to put on the rear rack, so the supplies and equipment all went into that. Did not use the front basket, but for other rides when I might go to a store I will have it on. I had a couple of Navigation Apps on the iPhone 4. One is NavMii, which is a car oriented navigation system. The other is "iArrow", which is a very simple but powerful hiking oriented App with a big compass arrow and distance indicator, for the direction and distance to a given GPS location (No turning directions, but useful). I always have tire repair supplies, pump, and tools. I added in some extra food bars, water, batteries, and additional plastic bags and cover in case of rain (I always have a cheap poncho). I took my Canon camera with me, and shot some video while riding, holding the camera in my right hand.
However, there were issues with the iPhone not being able to charge when powered by any USB source other than my Laptop running iTunes (now solved: https://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?129343). Part of the power conservation I used was to put the iPhone to sleep, but Cyclemeter still recorded data. And most importantly, set it up to make audio announcements of various info every mile. Anyway, I could not trust it to have power long enough to use the Nav apps. So, for this ride, I temporarily add my TomTom GPS. Now, being a straight trail, in a way, I didn't need electronic navigation. But I wanted to be prepared to make possible side trips off-trail. Also, I pre-loaded certain locations along the way, plus each end, so I would know how far it was. The other factor was that part of the trail was closed (bridge repair), so I would have to ride on some roads around the trail, so the TomTom was a back-up in case the trail detour was badly marked (indeed, no markings at all along the way, other than the closed sign and a little map taped to a sign next to the closed sign. Not any "turn here" detour signs along the way).
So, Tuesday the 20th, I went for it. Started bit a after 10 AM. I figured that given my goal distance and reasonable pace, I could probably ride that in about 6 hours actual riding time, but also allow 2 hours for breaks, for 8 hours total (that 75% ride / 25% rest ratio is about the proportion of my other long rides, including the 40 mile ride). And allowed for an hour cushion time before dark (was well prepared for riding at night if need be, and much safer at night on a trail like that than on a road)
I began about mid-way on the trail, so if I had a problem I would likely be closer to my car than if I was starting at one end and had a problem near the other end. Rode to the west, making occasional stops, sometimes a mini rest stop, sometimes to take some photos which doubled as rest stops. Made it to the western end, about 16 miles, and after some pics, started riding east for what would be over 30 miles if I felt up to it. At 16 miles (32 total), got back to the car, and felt fine. Had a bit longer break, hooked up the iPhone to my laptop to recharge it a bit during the break. About every 10 miles or so I had a breakfast bar.
Resumed the ride, now covering the same route that I'd ridden about two weeks before. Made it to the detour, made the detour (the only choice for a road was a busy one with a narrow shoulder, in one area NO shoulder, that I am glad I won't need to ride on again).
Finally neared the eastern end, at about 45-46 miles into the ride. I decided to ride a bit farther east, beyond the trail end, adding another 2 to 2.5 miles. I was going to ride a bit more east but there was a long hill I didn't want to waste energy on and tire my legs needlessly. So, at about 48 miles total, turned around to head west again. Rode and eventually made it back to the car . at about 62 miles!
Well, I'd met my original goal, to ride my age (which is a few years LESS than 62!). Chan Stevens had mentioned some people who do "Century Rides", the "real" one being 100 miles, the metric version (62.14 miles). Yeah, I know some people do not respect 100 KM rides, but it sure sounded like a great goal to me (If I could ride my age, and feel OK enough, then keep on for a few more to get 100 km).
I felt OK enough (not super-great, but had miles left in me), so I headed off westward again like I had at the start of the day's ride. Rode a few miles to reach some spur of the moment goals, like 2/3 of 100 miles (66.7 miles). And then finally a goal of 70, because another significant number. But that WOULD be it, my body still felt OK enough (tired but not exhausted, and my legs even felt up to more .. but "my seat" didn't. And I'm not talking the bike's. Also, it was getting dark, and while I was prepared to ride in the dark I didn't really want to do that unless it was due to a problem.
So, when I got back to my car, the Schwinn odometer read 71.2 miles. The Cyclemeter app read 70.79 miles. I've done a pretty good calibration of the wheel circumference (actual tape measurement of the rolling distance for 3 revs). And GPS-oriented cycle apps often under-report distances, so I'm counting it as a 71 mile ride. Total time from start end was a bit over 8 hours 22 min. Of that, 6 hours 15 min of riding time. Average speed 11.32 mph.
I was tired, but not exhausted. Part of what helped so much, besides the mostly flat trail, was riding at my own pace, no pressure to not "fall behind" as in a group. Also, being able stop anytime I wanted, whether to take pics (which also counted as rest stops), or rest stops.
Below, a movie I put together, and more pics after the end of the message. It's hard to hear but in some parts of the video you can hear the automated announcements by Cyclemeter (beginning at about 2:10 and 3:40.).
[video=youtube;E2GqbIKdWYk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E2GqbIKdWYk[/video]
Video notes: There are a couple of times near the end, showing the Cyclemeter display freeze-framed for few seconds, so it's not your video feed (unless by coincidence, it really is). When I had stopped to begin the final turn back, I found that the iPhone had enough battery power left to run the Cyclemeter display, otherwise it was sleeping but "talking in its sleep" for the ride before then.
Finally, I'd like to thank those who have given advice and support. Especially Chan Stevens.
- George Gassaway
I had indicated earlier that sometime next year, I'd like to try to ride my age. I had ridden over 40 miles a few weeks ago.
Well, more recently I began planning to go for it now, before winter. A key factor was riding a trail 2 weeks before that I'd not been on before. A former railroad line converted to a bike trail. it is very flat. Well, not pool table flat, but darned good. Of course for a long distance ride, I could have just done dozens of laps or back-and-forth lines, but I was intrigued by riding the whole line from one end to the other, which would add up close to my age.
Among other changes to the bike, I finally got a "trunk" bag to put on the rear rack, so the supplies and equipment all went into that. Did not use the front basket, but for other rides when I might go to a store I will have it on. I had a couple of Navigation Apps on the iPhone 4. One is NavMii, which is a car oriented navigation system. The other is "iArrow", which is a very simple but powerful hiking oriented App with a big compass arrow and distance indicator, for the direction and distance to a given GPS location (No turning directions, but useful). I always have tire repair supplies, pump, and tools. I added in some extra food bars, water, batteries, and additional plastic bags and cover in case of rain (I always have a cheap poncho). I took my Canon camera with me, and shot some video while riding, holding the camera in my right hand.
However, there were issues with the iPhone not being able to charge when powered by any USB source other than my Laptop running iTunes (now solved: https://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?129343). Part of the power conservation I used was to put the iPhone to sleep, but Cyclemeter still recorded data. And most importantly, set it up to make audio announcements of various info every mile. Anyway, I could not trust it to have power long enough to use the Nav apps. So, for this ride, I temporarily add my TomTom GPS. Now, being a straight trail, in a way, I didn't need electronic navigation. But I wanted to be prepared to make possible side trips off-trail. Also, I pre-loaded certain locations along the way, plus each end, so I would know how far it was. The other factor was that part of the trail was closed (bridge repair), so I would have to ride on some roads around the trail, so the TomTom was a back-up in case the trail detour was badly marked (indeed, no markings at all along the way, other than the closed sign and a little map taped to a sign next to the closed sign. Not any "turn here" detour signs along the way).
So, Tuesday the 20th, I went for it. Started bit a after 10 AM. I figured that given my goal distance and reasonable pace, I could probably ride that in about 6 hours actual riding time, but also allow 2 hours for breaks, for 8 hours total (that 75% ride / 25% rest ratio is about the proportion of my other long rides, including the 40 mile ride). And allowed for an hour cushion time before dark (was well prepared for riding at night if need be, and much safer at night on a trail like that than on a road)
I began about mid-way on the trail, so if I had a problem I would likely be closer to my car than if I was starting at one end and had a problem near the other end. Rode to the west, making occasional stops, sometimes a mini rest stop, sometimes to take some photos which doubled as rest stops. Made it to the western end, about 16 miles, and after some pics, started riding east for what would be over 30 miles if I felt up to it. At 16 miles (32 total), got back to the car, and felt fine. Had a bit longer break, hooked up the iPhone to my laptop to recharge it a bit during the break. About every 10 miles or so I had a breakfast bar.
Resumed the ride, now covering the same route that I'd ridden about two weeks before. Made it to the detour, made the detour (the only choice for a road was a busy one with a narrow shoulder, in one area NO shoulder, that I am glad I won't need to ride on again).
Finally neared the eastern end, at about 45-46 miles into the ride. I decided to ride a bit farther east, beyond the trail end, adding another 2 to 2.5 miles. I was going to ride a bit more east but there was a long hill I didn't want to waste energy on and tire my legs needlessly. So, at about 48 miles total, turned around to head west again. Rode and eventually made it back to the car . at about 62 miles!
Well, I'd met my original goal, to ride my age (which is a few years LESS than 62!). Chan Stevens had mentioned some people who do "Century Rides", the "real" one being 100 miles, the metric version (62.14 miles). Yeah, I know some people do not respect 100 KM rides, but it sure sounded like a great goal to me (If I could ride my age, and feel OK enough, then keep on for a few more to get 100 km).
I felt OK enough (not super-great, but had miles left in me), so I headed off westward again like I had at the start of the day's ride. Rode a few miles to reach some spur of the moment goals, like 2/3 of 100 miles (66.7 miles). And then finally a goal of 70, because another significant number. But that WOULD be it, my body still felt OK enough (tired but not exhausted, and my legs even felt up to more .. but "my seat" didn't. And I'm not talking the bike's. Also, it was getting dark, and while I was prepared to ride in the dark I didn't really want to do that unless it was due to a problem.
So, when I got back to my car, the Schwinn odometer read 71.2 miles. The Cyclemeter app read 70.79 miles. I've done a pretty good calibration of the wheel circumference (actual tape measurement of the rolling distance for 3 revs). And GPS-oriented cycle apps often under-report distances, so I'm counting it as a 71 mile ride. Total time from start end was a bit over 8 hours 22 min. Of that, 6 hours 15 min of riding time. Average speed 11.32 mph.
I was tired, but not exhausted. Part of what helped so much, besides the mostly flat trail, was riding at my own pace, no pressure to not "fall behind" as in a group. Also, being able stop anytime I wanted, whether to take pics (which also counted as rest stops), or rest stops.
Below, a movie I put together, and more pics after the end of the message. It's hard to hear but in some parts of the video you can hear the automated announcements by Cyclemeter (beginning at about 2:10 and 3:40.).
[video=youtube;E2GqbIKdWYk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E2GqbIKdWYk[/video]
Video notes: There are a couple of times near the end, showing the Cyclemeter display freeze-framed for few seconds, so it's not your video feed (unless by coincidence, it really is). When I had stopped to begin the final turn back, I found that the iPhone had enough battery power left to run the Cyclemeter display, otherwise it was sleeping but "talking in its sleep" for the ride before then.
Finally, I'd like to thank those who have given advice and support. Especially Chan Stevens.
- George Gassaway
WOW! Way to go George! I'm really impressed! :clap:
Thanks to you for sharing your incredible journey!
Thanks to you for sharing your incredible journey!
H_Rocket
Death by Powerpoint
Welcome to the Metric Century club!
While I will ride on the road, I really enjoy rail-trails. This weekend, we are planning a metric on the Farmington Valley trail just to close out the season. See, I told you that little by little the distances would creep up. When you first started you were happy to do 5-10 miles. Now you will think that is a warm up. My wife and I are in the 25 miles is the minimum necessary to gear up for class.
Well done my friend, well done!
Life is so much better on a bike.
While I will ride on the road, I really enjoy rail-trails. This weekend, we are planning a metric on the Farmington Valley trail just to close out the season. See, I told you that little by little the distances would creep up. When you first started you were happy to do 5-10 miles. Now you will think that is a warm up. My wife and I are in the 25 miles is the minimum necessary to gear up for class.
Well done my friend, well done!
Life is so much better on a bike.
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Well done George, the next step is a Century!
George - in the video around 1:59 there was a quick shot of the cables coming off the handlebars. There was a lot of slack in them. Talking from experience, no good can come from loose cables around the handlebars. I had a cable going between the battery pack by my seat post and the headlight somehow get caught in my front wheel. Ruined the cable, and I had to finish the ride (15 miles) without my headlight. I'm just glad it didn't damage the wheel or have it flip me over. A riding buddy had a loose cable going to a Morphie powerstation he had velcro'd to the top tube get caught on a brake lever. As he tried to get it loose he inadvertently pulled on it causing him to turn and crash into the side of a passing car. He spent a couple of days in the hospital. Tie up that excess cable, leaving enough to allow the bars to turn but not much more.
George - in the video around 1:59 there was a quick shot of the cables coming off the handlebars. There was a lot of slack in them. Talking from experience, no good can come from loose cables around the handlebars. I had a cable going between the battery pack by my seat post and the headlight somehow get caught in my front wheel. Ruined the cable, and I had to finish the ride (15 miles) without my headlight. I'm just glad it didn't damage the wheel or have it flip me over. A riding buddy had a loose cable going to a Morphie powerstation he had velcro'd to the top tube get caught on a brake lever. As he tried to get it loose he inadvertently pulled on it causing him to turn and crash into the side of a passing car. He spent a couple of days in the hospital. Tie up that excess cable, leaving enough to allow the bars to turn but not much more.
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Thanks everyone, for the comments.
tonka,
Tried to send you a PM but got a message that you are not receiving PM's. So if you are not doing PM's, please drop me an e-mail which is gc and my last name, at yahoo dot com
Thanks for the warning about the cables, in this case wiring. One of those is the wiring from the front wheel speed sensor to the Schwinn bike computer. When I changed the handlebar mount set-up, I needed more slack so I removed a zip tie, then forgot to replace it. I found out last Sunday when I put the bike back onto the car rack that the wiring could get snagged by the tire tread, and that I needed to secure it back. But I forgot to do that when I got back. Seeing your message, I've now fixed it.
Another wire you may have seen dangling, is from the iPhone to a small speaker on my helmet, above my right ear. The club has a rule about not wearing hearing devices ON or in ears, as well as not listening to music on a group ride (which all makes sense). So that was my workaround so I could hear Cyclemeter audio updates every mile, which is no worse than having a person riding on my right side talking (which is not against group ride rules, when safe to ride side by side anyway). I had been using an earbud in my right ear, and nothing on my left. Anyway, I now prefer it that way, small speaker above ear, not a fan of earbuds to begin with, this is a better way (for me). So, anyway, that wiring is usually secured a bit better once I've gotten onto the bike, so it's not dangling down that loose, but was when I got on to resume the ride at that point.
As for my primary night lighting, the headlight is the CatEye that Chan Stevens sent me, powered by its own 4 AA batts. And a two AA powered flashing taillight. Then I have my personal custom system for turning and visibility, but if those cut out for any reason (broken wire, dead battery), I still have the CatEye and rear flasher. Also I have a secondary headlight which is a very bright AAA powered LED flashlight (really great one Lowe's had on sale), not as bright as the CatEye but a pretty decent backup (I did a 2 mile night ride test with just it lighting up the road and it was pretty good).
- George Gassaway
tonka,
Tried to send you a PM but got a message that you are not receiving PM's. So if you are not doing PM's, please drop me an e-mail which is gc and my last name, at yahoo dot com
Thanks for the warning about the cables, in this case wiring. One of those is the wiring from the front wheel speed sensor to the Schwinn bike computer. When I changed the handlebar mount set-up, I needed more slack so I removed a zip tie, then forgot to replace it. I found out last Sunday when I put the bike back onto the car rack that the wiring could get snagged by the tire tread, and that I needed to secure it back. But I forgot to do that when I got back. Seeing your message, I've now fixed it.
Another wire you may have seen dangling, is from the iPhone to a small speaker on my helmet, above my right ear. The club has a rule about not wearing hearing devices ON or in ears, as well as not listening to music on a group ride (which all makes sense). So that was my workaround so I could hear Cyclemeter audio updates every mile, which is no worse than having a person riding on my right side talking (which is not against group ride rules, when safe to ride side by side anyway). I had been using an earbud in my right ear, and nothing on my left. Anyway, I now prefer it that way, small speaker above ear, not a fan of earbuds to begin with, this is a better way (for me). So, anyway, that wiring is usually secured a bit better once I've gotten onto the bike, so it's not dangling down that loose, but was when I got on to resume the ride at that point.
As for my primary night lighting, the headlight is the CatEye that Chan Stevens sent me, powered by its own 4 AA batts. And a two AA powered flashing taillight. Then I have my personal custom system for turning and visibility, but if those cut out for any reason (broken wire, dead battery), I still have the CatEye and rear flasher. Also I have a secondary headlight which is a very bright AAA powered LED flashlight (really great one Lowe's had on sale), not as bright as the CatEye but a pretty decent backup (I did a 2 mile night ride test with just it lighting up the road and it was pretty good).
- George Gassaway
cbrarick
Wildman CT
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Good job George!
Send me your email and when I get a chance I'll dig out the Project96 nomographs of tire width & combined bike&rider weight vs tire pressure. I used to be a "pump it up" guy until I got those, and my coach put me thru the paces with my normal and recommended pressures. quite a difference! Maximum tire pressures are designed based on the bead of the tire - too much and you'll eventually blow the tire off the rim. (or over time, you will have it slip off the rim). The reason for putting some air in when you change tubes it to avoid pinch flats ("snake Bites") from having the tube twisted within the tire, causing it to pop. You only need a few inches of pressure, a few pumps all you need.
Send me your email and when I get a chance I'll dig out the Project96 nomographs of tire width & combined bike&rider weight vs tire pressure. I used to be a "pump it up" guy until I got those, and my coach put me thru the paces with my normal and recommended pressures. quite a difference! Maximum tire pressures are designed based on the bead of the tire - too much and you'll eventually blow the tire off the rim. (or over time, you will have it slip off the rim). The reason for putting some air in when you change tubes it to avoid pinch flats ("snake Bites") from having the tube twisted within the tire, causing it to pop. You only need a few inches of pressure, a few pumps all you need.
Crash-n-Burn
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2014
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70 miles on FrankenBike, really nice work. Google Joe Friel, he is a semi-retired cycling/tri coach. He's got some good reading material on riding into your 50s... and beyond. You may find some of his ideas valuable.
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