My fins come out poorly a lot, so I can use all the tips you have to give.FIN TIPS
My fins come out poorly a lot, so I can use all the tips you have to give.FIN TIPS
Reminds me of the (completely irrelevant) time many years ago that I turned on the radio and just heard a sort of rumbling noise. Sort of multiple rumblings, and shifting over time. My wife and I were listening in profound puzzlement, and just figured that radio was busticated when the announcer came on (perfectly clear) and said "That was the fugue for eleven cats purring." We didn't stop laughing for a considerable time.soft kitty soundtrack.
As we say out West; "An RSO riding a fast horse will never notice!"
LOL, a steampunker could definitely do some interesting things with this.To increase CP anxiety the oddroc builder could add Greebles such as cut or stretched conduits, pipes, cables, or other protruding broken equipment or leaking fluids/steam.
Call it "Nineteenth Century Industrial Accident "LOL, a steampunker could definitely do some interesting things with this.
FINISHING UP THE NOSE ASSEMBLY
After some measurements and fiddling in OR I decided the nose needed just a *bit* more weight. So I got a bit more lead shot and the piece of dowel that goes in the pre-drilled hole in the nose.
View attachment 500088
I put in the shot with a bit of epoxy, then epoxied in the dowel, jamming it in as far as it would go to ensure the shot was tightly held in. By chance, it ended up almost flush.
View attachment 500089
The nose + weight ended up weighing a bit over an ounce, heavier than I would like but not really much heavier than a typical plastic nose cone.
I then glued the nose into the top segment, using alignment marks I had previously made to ensure it went in the correct position. Despite the marks, I check and re-checked the position about 1000 times before finalizing the attachment.
View attachment 500090
Some CWF around the base of the nose smoothed out the joint with the body, and the assembly is done.
View attachment 500091
And assembly is now complete. Final weight: 3.7 oz, minus parachute and shock cord. Should do well on 24mm D and E motors.
View attachment 500092
Never mind the apparent curve of the airframe in the above pic; that's lens distortion. The whole thing is indeed, um, "straight", and I use that word advisedly.
Looking at that picture, I now realize that I put the lugs on the wrong side of the rocket; that is the side that I wanted to put the logo decal. Never even considered that until just now, oh well. Speaking of which, I need to start figuring out the paint scheme, although who knows when next paint opportunity will arise. The rocket really could use a coat of filler/primer, but I don't think I have it in me to sand all the nooks and crannies of this one.
As we say out West; "An RSO riding a fast horse will never notice!"
I would paint/decal it with some scheme that would make it look as if it was cut up. Off set images, stripes or letters on decals. Reminds me of freshly cut, unbaked cinnamon roll dough. Ummm... Yummy Cinnabon! On the cut ends show the internals.FINISHING UP THE NOSE ASSEMBLY
After some measurements and fiddling in OR I decided the nose needed just a *bit* more weight. So I got a bit more lead shot and the piece of dowel that goes in the pre-drilled hole in the nose.
View attachment 500088
I put in the shot with a bit of epoxy, then epoxied in the dowel, jamming it in as far as it would go to ensure the shot was tightly held in. By chance, it ended up almost flush.
View attachment 500089
The nose + weight ended up weighing a bit over an ounce, heavier than I would like but not really much heavier than a typical plastic nose cone.
I then glued the nose into the top segment, using alignment marks I had previously made to ensure it went in the correct position. Despite the marks, I check and re-checked the position about 1000 times before finalizing the attachment.
View attachment 500090
Some CWF around the base of the nose smoothed out the joint with the body, and the assembly is done.
View attachment 500091
And assembly is now complete. Final weight: 3.7 oz, minus parachute and shock cord. Should do well on 24mm D and E motors.
View attachment 500092
Never mind the apparent curve of the airframe in the above pic; that's lens distortion. The whole thing is indeed, um, "straight", and I use that word advisedly.
Looking at that picture, I now realize that I put the lugs on the wrong side of the rocket; that is the side that I wanted to put the logo decal. Never even considered that until just now, oh well. Speaking of which, I need to start figuring out the paint scheme, although who knows when next paint opportunity will arise. The rocket really could use a coat of filler/primer, but I don't think I have it in me to sand all the nooks and crannies of this one.
Wyoming bound for the real Wild Wild West. Heaven's Gate. The local law man is present and made a wager it will fly straight. Living in the 80's, heading for the 90's...the 1890's!...In the Wild Wild West! The Gay 90's! (A historical term referring to the optimism, happiness and fimancial booms of the 1890's. Included so as to not trigger semantically sensitive moderns.)"Out West; RSO" I thought it was "The Wild West"?
This picture does once again show how weird and deceiving the angles are.
And cross eyes. And possibly twist necks.Wow, you're not kidding. This will definitely turn heads.
Should I be concerned that a 16" long BT50 (core tube) is a bit small for an E ejection charge? Or is it not something to worry about?
Hope to have some paint scheme details to share soon. Or should it be a surprise?
In the meantime, I have observed that with all the body segments glued together with centering rings, this thing is a *tank*. And with all of its super-dragginess, it would be a good candidate to load up with E motors (I'm thinking Q-jet E26-4). Should I be concerned that a 16" long BT50 (core tube) is a bit small for an E ejection charge? Or is it not something to worry about?
I've seen this done in high-powered rockets... in an LPR scenario I can never tell how strong to make the tape. Too strong you've just made a super-short shock cord. Also have never seen the tape loops applied to an elastic shock cord, somehow doesn't seem like a good idea.My favorite method is to put small loops of masking tape on a Kevlar shock cord, it helps keep things neat, and when they tear, it dissipates a lot of energy.
This rocket will be only about 4 oz dry, I suspect an E26 will have no trouble getting it moving. I have some E20s handy as well if needed.E26 doesn't have much punch out of the gate, D22 has more. E20 may be a better choice.
This rocket will be only about 4 oz dry, I suspect an E26 will have no trouble getting it moving. I have some E20s handy as well if needed.
I've seen this done in high-powered rockets... in an LPR scenario I can never tell how strong to make the tape. Too strong you've just made a super-short shock cord. Also have never seen the tape loops applied to an elastic shock cord, somehow doesn't seem like a good idea.
Tried that once unsuccessfully on Starship Avalon, but in that case I had crocheted 1/8" elastic. It kind of jammed up and didn't pull clean on ejection. When I had tested it over and over outside the rocket, it pulled cleanly and easily every time. Maybe Kevlar would be more likely to pull clean, being smoother.Crochet your long kevlar shock cord and neatly pack into small tube.
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