Shear Insanity: a build thread

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By golly I actually shot some primer today.
CF78CA7E-B2C9-4581-84AF-C0A4C912011D_1_201_a Large.jpeg
I wrapped some blue tape around the coupler joining the front and rear sections, and jammed them together just enough so they'd stay in place. The separation enabled me to get primer on the centering rings.

Also featured in this image: assorted crap in my shed.
 
Aaaaaaand white:
IMG_2212.jpeg
I did a quick dry sanding of the primer with 800 grit paper (I mean *quick*) and, then applied the Rusto 2x Semi-gloss white topcoat. It seems to have come out very good, although (obviously) I won't be able to properly evaluate it until it's comes inside. So far, two rockets in, I have had good luck with the semi-gloss white. Too bad it's so hard to find in stores.

I did observe a shocking number of gaps in my fillets, more than I have ever has on a build (there are also more weird seams on this rocket than most). Many are in the area that will eventually be black, so they'll be pretty much invisible. The white ones... well I'm not going to worry about it.
 
Brought the rocket inside to look at the paint. Pretty good. As previously mentioned, there are some horrid gaps in my fillets, e.g.:
IMG_2226.jpeg
Actually, that's so bad that I assume I completely forgot to fillet it at all. Bummer! Not sure I'm going to do anything about it, though. Will see.

Thought I might get a chance to shoot the black tonight (perfect weather!) but the opportunity did not arise. It is masked and ready to go. I suppose I should finalize my decals, I'm still not 100% happy with the design.
 
Brought the rocket inside to look at the paint. Pretty good. As previously mentioned, there are some horrid gaps in my fillets, e.g.:
View attachment 518209
Actually, that's so bad that I assume I completely forgot to fillet it at all. Bummer! Not sure I'm going to do anything about it, though. Will see.

Thought I might get a chance to shoot the black tonight (perfect weather!) but the opportunity did not arise. It is masked and ready to go. I suppose I should finalize my decals, I'm still not 100% happy with the design.

One of those things that only you will notice/ point out. No worries.
 
The white paint came out fine; so far so good with the semi-gloss so far. The black will be a good test because my experience with gloss black has not been great. It could probably use some sanding before the black but I'm feeling especially lazy right now.

The masking job was destined to be incredibly simple until I added those white fin edges. Of all the ways I could do them, I decided that masking would actually be the least-bad option. Still a non-trivial challenge. The little front finlets were especially troublesome.
mask.jpeg
Looks good at this point but I've learned not to get cocky about this sort of thing; in my experience masking tape removal tends to be both exciting and disappointing.

Black paint will go on as soon as (opportunity weather).
 
I'm not 100% satisfied with the decal design but I'm finished messing with it. The only change since the last render is the roll pattern. Here it is, ready for printing on white decal paper. This is going to be a trickier-than-usual set of decals to apply, I think, due to alignment requirements on weirdo airframe.
decal_sheet copy.png
As is my new practice, All decals with black edges that will go on black paint are given some extra border. After soaking the decal, I will trim it, thereby removing the bit of edge where the ink inevitably runs. This worked well for me on... um... I think it was Plasma Dart. I'm hoping it works well here. To be sure, trimming the wet/soaked decal is not fun, but I'll stick with this approach as long as it keeps working.
 
Would doing the fin tips with white decals be easier than paint and masking? (says the peanut gallery after masking already in place:rolleyes:)
 
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Would doing the fin tips with white decals be easier than paint and masking? (says the peanut gallery after masking already in place:rolleyes:)
That was my primary alternative to masking, and in fact that's what I originally planned to do. It has its advantages but the problem I foresaw was the need to cut a whole bunch of perfectly-sized pieces, and with the tight spaces (front finlets) and various angled and curved edges I'd need to wrap around, it seemed like it was going to be a miserable job and very hard to get right. With masking, I can build up each edge with multiple pieces of tape, and trim a bit here and there as needed. And only the mask edge needs to be precise; the other edge of the tape can be whatever.

The price I pay for masking is the cleanup of the inevitable paint seepage.
 
The white paint came out fine; so far so good with the semi-gloss so far.
What happened on that one fin and fillet? Is there masking under it or something? Everything else is so perfectly smooth (to the precision of the photo).
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As is my new practice, All decals with black edges that will go on black paint are given some extra border... To be sure, trimming the wet/soaked decal is not fun, but I'll stick with this approach as long as it keeps working.
What method are you using to make the cuts? I'm thinking of how I would attempt it; you've probably worked out something better but, for what it's worth:
  • Put the decal on a non-permeable surface, like waxed paper of some such. (OK, that part is obvious.)
  • Place a straight edge, something hard, thin, and that lied all the way down on the decal, such as a steel ruler. The ruler (or whatever) goes over the part you'll keep, and the waste is visible.
  • Cut along the straight edge while pressing down on it more than firmly; press hard.
  • This is one of those situation where I would use the curve of a blade, not the point. My experience is that the point, even of a very sharp blade, can catch and pull in very thin material, but the curve will not.
I use this method to make flawless cuts in paper. (If the knife is really good and sharp I can score the paper about half way through to then tear it if I want a fuzzy edge, or to avoid scratching the table underneath.) It seems to me that a wet decal would be even more prone to catch-and-wrinkle than paper, which would make it all the more important to have zero elevation of the edge above the decal and to press down hard on the ruler.
1652710631608.png

The price I pay for masking is the cleanup of the inevitable paint seepage.
What about the seal coat of base color or clear?
 
What happened on that one fin and fillet? Is there masking under it or something? Everything else is so perfectly smooth (to the precision of the photo).
View attachment 518908
All the fins look like that. Possibly a result of not having done a coat of filler/primer to smooth it out. The fillet is just not a very good one, now that I look at it there.
What method are you using to make the cuts?
1652711398934.png
What about the seal coat of base color or clear?
I'm familiar with technique but am generally reluctant to add another coat to my paint session. I dunno, maybe I'll try it here if the mood strikes.
 
I'm familiar with technique but am generally reluctant to add another coat to my paint session. I dunno, maybe I'll try it here if the mood strikes.

If you don't have any of the base color, spraying clear and then the next color works also.
 
I tried it once and it didn't work (still had leakage). Could have been my bad technique. In any case, I certainly do have more white on hand.
Probably a timing thing. We're always walking the tightrope of "Is it too soon for the next coat" vs "Did I wait too long to shoot the next coat"
 
My best success has been thin clear sprayed from an HVLP gun or airbrush, but I absolutely accept that different tools, different people and different scenarios yield different results. Personally, I will spray thin clear with good quality tape when doing things moving forward, but I know for fact that others get good results otherwise. I can also say for sure, I won't spray complex patterns, even with good tape, without a barrier coat of some sort. Spray can color on color is my last choice, but I'd do it before trying to spray black over white with just tape. I believe plenty of people have success doing it, but 100% of the time I have failed. Maybe I have oily skin or something. . .

Looking forward to the next step in the process!!!

Sandy.
 
We can turn those frowns upside down, because I got an unexpected opportunity after work today and was able to apply the semi-gloss black. I did try a shot of white beforehand to seal the tape... we'll see how that works out.
IMG_2275.jpeg
The black looks like it came out.... "OK". We'll see.

Also printed out my decal sheet, which looks great. Still need to clear-coat (yellow tinge is from photograph; actual sheet is white background).
IMG_2276.jpeg
 
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