Thanks Rich- one little point I want to draw out so anyone reading this later isn't disappointed- there are several types of epoxy floor finishes. My own experience is with a 2-part product sold online only that is 100% solids (meaning no carriers that evaporate- the carriers make it more spreadable, but you end up with a thinner coat). Takes a long time to cure (24h to set, 72-96 to cure for foot traffic, and 10d for cars). The kits you can buy at HomeDepot or Lowes are only partially solid...I can't find any reputable numbers now, but at the time I remember seeing that they were 50-70% solids...so they cure faster, but may not leave a durable a finish.
If anyone goes epoxy route, some hints:
1) Moisture test. For reals. If too high for the kit, don't apply.
2) Be ready to throw out a set of clothes, some basic accessories (buckets, paint mixing rod, maybe a drill (I had to))- epoxy for floors is not much different than epoxy for layups, so I expect many folks here have the PPE ideas down, but there's an empirical difference between glassing a 4" tube with epoxy and coating a floor. Use a mixing tool to combine- buys you more working time. Once the two parts are mixed per the instructions, DUMP THE COMPOUND on the floor- like laminating epoxy, it sets up fast if in any confined space/volume.
3) Have one person set to brush in the corners/edges, the other to roller the flat open areas. Do no more than about 25 sq feet at a time (maybe 30, don't remember...but it was roughly quadrants of my 2 car garage).
4) If using 100% solids epoxy, expect bubbles. There are no VOC to help reduce surface tension, so after application, you can expect your floor to look like some sick 3rd grader has blown bubbles up through the epoxy ALL OVER. The instructions warned us about this, and suggested we continue to back roll the product, but we didn't see any bubbles UNTIL the product began to set. We tried to flame them away with a propane torch, which worked, but only for the areas we could reach, since the floor was still wet, and much of it was removed from easy access. I then resorted to a tent pole with a bamboo skewer taped to the end. I spent about 2 hours popping bubbles with the skewer, and still have evidence of them on the floor. I've sense gotten over it, but at the time, it was a major disappointment seeing these little "rings" of raised epoxy on an otherwise flawless floor.
5) No matter if you use the 100% solids or the big box version, once it's time to apply chips, start small, and pay attention! Once you have the coating laid down, it was time to lay the flecks. These are to provide visual interest as well as traction. Don't know what they are, but they come in a bag and look like paint chips. You can't wait until the entire space is done (unless you've only got 30sq/ft of space) because you need to be able to reach it while the epoxy is still uncured. Sweep up any flecks that land in areas that haven't yet been coated. Also, fleck sparingly, at least to start. Anecdote- skip to end if you wish: I studied the instructions, and after laying the epoxy in in the first 20^2ft place, I grabbed the bag of accent chips. Wife was there, and wanted to help, so she grabbed a handful too. I neglected to explain that the idea was a gentle rain-like coverage from above, delivered by gently tossing a small amount of flakes into the air, allowing them to drift down and settle onto the newly adhered floor. Instead, she took Nolan Ryan's approach, and decided to pitch the flakes she held right at the surface. Her side of the garage (where I started) now has what appears to be a comet re-entry map preserved on the floor.