So that's the full upgrade for $579 huh? Prusa makes it sound like the full upgrade from MK2 to MK3 was very popular. Great choice!
3D Printing Prusa MK4
- Thread starter Huxter
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So that's the full upgrade for $579 huh? Prusa makes it sound like the full upgrade from MK2 to MK3 was very popular. Great choice!
A lot of them did it. This one is way more expensive but is a much more encompassing upgrade.So that's the full upgrade for $579 huh? Prusa makes it sound like the full upgrade from MK2 to MK3 was very popular. Great choice!
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The MK4 and upgrade will with with the enclosure.
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Placed my order today for a MK4 kit. Now the waiting game begins.
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You will love the Mk4 kit. Mine came with a missing front frame and so delayed things maybe 8-9 days until Prusa could replace the part. Assembly otherwise straightforward. I bought a Wiha 2.5mm handled ball tip hex driver to speed installing screws and also a torque driver for the M3 cap screws but that was probably overkill.
The included USB2 thumb drive was overly tight and data transfer was twitchy. I bought a Kingston 128GB USB3 flip drive with USB-C on one side and USB-A on the other and formatted it FAT-32 on my Mac no sweat. Much better replacement.
The included USB2 thumb drive was overly tight and data transfer was twitchy. I bought a Kingston 128GB USB3 flip drive with USB-C on one side and USB-A on the other and formatted it FAT-32 on my Mac no sweat. Much better replacement.
Mine has worked very well. I have had zero issues. I am not printing parts to upgrade a printer to MK4
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I will be ordering 2 upgrade kits after Christmas. Would do it now but just order a fiber laser and in 2 weeks will be ordering my printer, cutter and laminator. So I gotta behave till after the holidays....LOL
I will post how the upgrade goes in the next couple weeks.
NTP2
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Have you decided a name yet?
I have a few favorites. I am going to toss it to my wife.
NTP2
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Ok tell us what she says!
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Got my notice that my printer is on its way. 
Going to be a very busy few weeks with my large format printer coming, 3d printer and lathe getting it upgrades all in matter of a few weeks. Plus doing training for few weeks. I am looking forward to the new year for a small break.
Going to be a very busy few weeks with my large format printer coming, 3d printer and lathe getting it upgrades all in matter of a few weeks. Plus doing training for few weeks. I am looking forward to the new year for a small break.
Wheh - I got tired just reading that! Good luck.
I've been dealing w a 'filament sensor' issue w the MK4. When printing multi-color prints, the MK4 will not always see that I have removed the filament, and will not let me insert the next color. Others have this issue when the filament runs out and the MK4 happily keeps printing (in thin air)!
Fixes range from magnets to Allen keys down the path to jiggle that metal ball loose.
https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/eng...firmware-and-software-help/filament-sensor-8/
My MK4 was pre-assembled btw.
Good luck.I've been dealing w a 'filament sensor' issue w the MK4. When printing multi-color prints, the MK4 will not always see that I have removed the filament, and will not let me insert the next color. Others have this issue when the filament runs out and the MK4 happily keeps printing (in thin air)!
Fixes range from magnets to Allen keys down the path to jiggle that metal ball loose.
https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/eng...firmware-and-software-help/filament-sensor-8/
My MK4 was pre-assembled btw.
Wheh - I got tired just reading that!
I've been dealing w a 'filament sensor' issue w the MK4. When printing multi-color prints, the MK4 will not always see that I have removed the filament, and will not let me insert the next color. Others have this issue when the filament runs out and the MK4 happily keeps printing (in thin air)!
Fixes range from magnets to Allen keys down the path to jiggle that metal ball loose.
https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/eng...firmware-and-software-help/filament-sensor-8/
My MK4 was pre-assembled btw.
I had that issue for a short period - Support chat was able to help me.
If it's not a secret - please tell us what you did to fix it Chuck!!!
I have had it twice. Once, there was a firmware issue, and it was resolved with an update. The second, they walked me through some steps to fix it. I can't remember them all because I did it while I was online with them. It has happened with my XL and Mk4, but I no longer have the problem. With Mk4, it was with color changes. I could not nail down why it happened with the XL.
When I finally get the sensor to realize the filament is out, and I start the next color, the next color starts ~ an inch more to the right then it's supposed to? This has happened twice now. I was very careful not to move anything the last time it happened. This seems like a separate issue?
Anyone seen this before?
Anyone seen this before?
Intermittently (but rare) on just about all printers I have, but I cannot say that it is more common on the Mk4.
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My assembly went smoothly. Just follow cwbullet’s advice and read the instructions slowly. The comments in the instructions can sometimes be helpful, but some of them are from people who either didnt read the directions or have no opposable thumbs.
I had one glitch. I was threading a long M3 cap screw into a captive nylon lock nut deep inside one of the Y-axis belt tensioners. I was going too fast and the heat caused the two stainless steel parts to fuse. This is apparently a thing with stainless steel fasteners. No amount of fiddling could get them unstuck. I finally took a very thin jeweler’s saw and cut the head off the screw, then punched the fused screw shaft and nut out backwards. I had spares and reassembled everything, this time going slowly and with a touch of Superlube on the thread. All went well this time.
I tried backing the fused nut off the now-headless screw with a vise and vise-grips. You'd think i could have backed that nut off but it was welded solid, and I mean SOLID.
NTP2
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How on earth did you weld a screw in place!!? How where you doing that?!
I am surprised. First I have heard that happening.
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NTP2
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it still needs a lot of friction right?
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Not nearly as much as you might think, and very, very common the smaller the fastener. Plagues the RC car world
NTP2
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It sounds like it has less to do with the metal being hot than the crystals getting confused about which piece they are.
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The nylon lock nut was inserted deep into the Prusa part and I suspect I was using the screw pull technique to seat the nut to its fullest. I was just turning the cap screw with a ball tip hex driver when it stopped all of a sudden and the screw would not go any further. I increased the torque and the nut began to turn inside its hex well, which I knew was a really bad sign. I tried reversing the screw and it wouldn't move in that direction either. At that point I knew that further turning was just going to turn the nut and round off the flats of the hole the nut was inserted into. So it became a question of do I order a replacement part from Prusa, do I find someone locally who could print a new part for me, or was there any other way I could salvage the part.
Cutting the screw head off seemed the best option given that I had the tools and skill to make that very thin cut. Thank God it worked.
This galling or freezing or self-welding seems to be a common problem with stainless steel fasteners, especially with fine threads or small diameters. I suspect the nylon/stainless locknut played a role in increasing friction and heating. Galling can be reduced by lowering the temperature, decreasing the speed of turning the screw, or lubing the threads with an anti-seize compound, or even a little grease. My son is a mechanical engineer and avoids stainless steel fasteners when he can in order to avoid this very problem.
i still use stainless fasteners but I am now much more careful.
I have 9 Prusas right now. I had a failure just like this on 2 of the 9. I went back to inspect each slicer file. No idea why. I printed each a second time and they printed correctly.
