Yeah. I watched a video on how to do that. I did it a couple times to zero it in. Now that I think about it, it was extruding less than the 100 mm I commanded it to, so I'm not sure why it's skipping. I got it to about 99.5 steps/mm
3D Printing Printing help!
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Have you been able to verify that the hot end is producing the correct temperatures? If you've worked on everything else and are still having issues, it seems that verifying that the hotend temp is stable during printing might be a good step. That's what was happening to me – it passed the initial tests and the printing started out fine, but once it got into a printing a job, the hotend temp would drop and cause the filament to jam. And it only did it only after the printer had been running for a while, so after I cleaned it and tried other fixes, it would seem ok, only to fail again during a print. If the Octoprint software hadn't reported an under voltage issue, I probably would not have ever figured it out. I realize it's likely not your surge protector (like mine was), but maybe something on the driver board is failing under sustained load.
Of course, that's just a guess based solely on my N = 1 with a similar issue. It sounds like your printer is getting some good maintenance regardless, but I hope you are able to resolve it soon.
Tony
Of course, that's just a guess based solely on my N = 1 with a similar issue. It sounds like your printer is getting some good maintenance regardless, but I hope you are able to resolve it soon.
Tony
I'm going to start playing around with that. I have it run through a heavy duty extension cord to a wall outlet, so I'm going to try a few different things to see how it goes
Imma be honest, I'm beyond my depth with this now. I don't really know how to check the temperature, or play with any of the actual electronics.
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YouTube taught me a LOT about what to do and why with my Ender 3 Pro. At the point now where I'm about to upgrade it to Kilpper with the sonic pad.
That will be my next step. Do you have any videos you'd recommend?
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rharshberger
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Motor is skipping because its having trouble pushing the not quite melted enough filament out of the extruder, increase your temp a bit and see what happens, not more than 10 degrees at first.
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Also be aware that there IS a little offset between the dot and where it's taking the temp, so get close and make sure the sensor is centered on the nozzle.
The offset was more so for the picture. And when I got closer, it's still only measuring like 114. Even when it's practically on it
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Have you checked the thermistor on the side of the heat block to make sure it's properly seated in the block?
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The IR thermometer is the wrong tool for that job. The thermometer is reporting the average brightness temperature of everything in the detector's field-of-view. Add to that, most metals (including those making up the hot end) have fairly low emissivity and any temperature you measure will be lower than the actual temperature.
If the hotend thermistor reports the right temperature at room temperature, then it is unlikely that the issue is the thermocouple and the temperature being shown in the screen is accurate.
Soooo, I think I actually got it. If we go back in time to when I replaced the motor, I had calibrated it and tried printing. What I didn't realize at the time, was that it was reverting back to the previous calibration. I never hit store settings
That, and I pulled a massive plug out with the bowden tube that I hadn't seen previously. Once I saw my flashlight shining through, I figured it was good. I have a print going now, and so far, it's going great. I think its pretty obvious I'm not well experienced with the fine details of 3d printing. Thank you to everyone who posted advice, now I can use this as a resource in the future when it comes time for maintenance again
That, and I pulled a massive plug out with the bowden tube that I hadn't seen previously. Once I saw my flashlight shining through, I figured it was good. I have a print going now, and so far, it's going great. I think its pretty obvious I'm not well experienced with the fine details of 3d printing. Thank you to everyone who posted advice, now I can use this as a resource in the future when it comes time for maintenance againAttachments
A good way to get your temperature dialed-in, assuming it is close to start with, is to print a temperature tower and then select the temp that produces the best output. Personally I just print temperature test coupons one at a time, as I can't be bothered editing g-code to print the tower in one go.
Thingiverse has the stl files for the coupons and tower.
Thingiverse has the stl files for the coupons and tower.
Glad to hear you have it figured out. Sounds like you did some good maintenance along the way. I probably should do some as well.
Tony
Tony
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If you're using cura, there are free plug-ins that make temp towers in about 3 clicks and under 30 seconds.
Same with retract towers.
That sounds a lot easier than it used to be. Thanks
The e-step/mm is dependent on the stepper motor steps/rev AND the diameter of the pully. The easy way to calibrate it is to get some verniers and mark 100mm from a fixed point normally the entrance to the extruder then extrude 100mm and use the value actually extruded to calibrate like OTT said. The other way is to get some sensitive scales and weigh the filament extruded. From the density and diameter, you can work out the length extruded from the weight extruded.
Your filament MUST BE DRY. Sort out that issue FIRST.
Here's an easy method using your heated bed on the printer.
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This is the video I used. It worked really well for me.
I'd expect that the ONLY way you can form a plug that diameter is if you have a gap between your nozzle or bowden and your heat break. Did you check that they locked against each other? And there is no gap. And your bowden is fully pushed into the heatbreak.Soooo, I think I actually got it. If we go back in time to when I replaced the motor, I had calibrated it and tried printing. What I didn't realize at the time, was that it was reverting back to the previous calibration. I never hit store settings
I did now. I replaced the bowden tube once before, and I think I may have neglected to push it down. But I also suspect that the plug may have formed from when I first started using the printer
The trick with getting rid of the gap is not to just push the bowden tube down. You do need to push it down entirely, but the salient point is you loosen the tip a turn or two first. Push the bowden tube down onto that, then tighten the tip up again.
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