You could attach flanges to the root edges and screw them to the body. Drill through the metal ferrule and drive the screws.
That would work well at larger sizes, but I'd not be too optimistic at the size I'm working (BT55 core tube, 24mm mount). If I went with an 18mm mount, I'd have a bit more to screw into, maybe could work. Wouldn't even know how to do the flanges in a way that wouldn't be ugly, though.You could attach flanges to the root edges and screw them to the body. Drill through the metal ferrule and drive the screws.
I'm slowly but surelyforcingtrying to force you to develop high power building skills
Dremel cut through the wall fins?This is an interesting challenge. I am experimenting.
View attachment 392513
Even I can reproduce this, how do I attach fins to it, clear or otherwise?
Hmm, maybe.... That would scare the bejeebers out of me, but could be worth a shot. I'll have to try cutting the prototype and see what happens.Dremel cut through the wall fins?
'Twould be a mess, gluing to the bumpy surface. Dontcha think?
My new maker space's* laser cutter has a rotary positioner that should be good for cutting fin slots, though I haven't done it yet. If you send me a CAD file I can give it a try and mail you the result.Hmm, maybe.... That would scare the bejeebers out of me, but could be worth a shot. I'll have to try cutting the prototype and see what happens.
As a great philosopher once said:I'd go with replicating the surface texture with a printed decal between the fins rather than actually making it textured.
I personally would go maximum pencil-ness, but YMMV, etc. etc.
As a great philosopher once said:
boatgeek said: ↑
I personally would go maximum pencil-ness, but YMMV, etc. etc.
Works perfectly. I used that technique on the IRIS-T. I wet the outside of the wood to soften it and counter the expansion in the other direction due to the water in the glue. Then tape it up for an hour or two. May take another couple of hours to completely dry out.Interesting idea! Did the 1/32" balsa wrap without issues? No tendency for the grain to split?
I so want to say "Laser cutter!" again, but actually I got nuthun'.Then, more quickly and carelessly than I ought to, I sanded in some contours to kind of sort of represent the contours of a real hypothetical ferrule. It was messy, and I know that if I use this approach for realsies then I'll have to take it much slower and more carefully (and use some sort of guides to ensure straight grooves.
As a great philosopher once said:
WARNING: AWESOME POST AHEAD
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View attachment 392604
Pretty freaking awesome if I do say so, better than I even hoped for. I'd say we have achieve a very high level of pencilness here, even without the hex pencil body (of course there are round pencils, and that right there looks a lot like one).
There are still problems, though:
1) I can't imagine *any* way to get fins onto that. Gluing, cutting, forget it. I will try, but I lack optimism. I suppose it's within the realm of possibility that the right Dremel blade will cut it cleanly, but... well, we'll see. I really hate to disturb it, but I have to try something, unless I just want to make a non-flying pencil sculpture.
Or put the fins below the ferrule, maybe that's a better idea.
I second this.What about putting the fins above the ferrule? It would be a shame to cut that up, or even hide it in anyway with the fins.
But isn't that... wait for it...Looks legit, probably what I would call going above and beyond with details!
It is a bit worrisome. The Skywriter is very light and has a solid plastic fin can, so it's not an issue there. My eraser is about 1.2" long in this test version, that is pretty short for a fin attachment, although conceivably with TTW I could make them pretty strong (especially if they're plexiglass).Could you adapt @Matt_The_RocketMan 's idea with a Flis Praetor-like fin set only on the eraser? I'd worry about popping fins with the short fin roots though.
That seems like it could work. How much worse would the ferrule look with fins cut through it? At some point I *will* have to cut this one up with a Dremel to see.Alternatively, maybe you could assemble in the following order:
Shape balsa
Cut fin slots
Add foil tape, covering slots
Trim foil tape with Xacto
Glue in fins
Ya, maybe.3 clear find in corners of the hexagon, above the ferrule.
Use lead and washers at nose base like the IRIS.
Yellow fins maybe? This could be added above the eraser part, 3 or 4 may do the trick, just figuring the CG, CP are the hardest part on adding weight on the back end.Man, it sucks when your words get thrown back at you! I should know, with a teenager in the house.
Awesome indeed! That looks great!
Could you adapt @Matt_The_RocketMan 's idea with a Flis Praetor-like fin set only on the eraser? I'd worry about popping fins with the short fin roots though. Alternatively, maybe you could assemble in the following order:
Shape balsa
Cut fin slots
Add foil tape, covering slots
Trim foil tape with Xacto
Glue in fins
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