My Wildman 3X Andromeda Carbon Fiber

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Finally got around to adding the rail buttons, working on the av bay/coupler next... Like Les, due to the rod being thicker than the fairing, I doubled up on the bottom washer for the buttons. I also sanded one side of the fairing button in order to get just a hair further away from the tube in order for the rail to be as parallel as possible. There was a slight amount of binding, I had to expand the bottom hole in order to move the button at most 1/32" closer to the tube, so I added epoxy to that one to secure it better...


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I am using #6 - 32 screws to hod the av bay in the upper section, will do #2 shear pins, all based on the discussion in Les' Agglomeration thread. I used a fin guide just to get marks 180° apart, then used aluminum angle to draw lines. I measured .3" from the ends for the screws and shear pins, then realized the rod fairings extend beyond that. While not completely necessary, the #2 tap I ordered will arrive tomorrow, so those will wait anyway. I did drill and tap the #6 screw holes and added the screws. I did run some 1/4" tape strips along the coupler to help it remain centered, there was indeed a tiny bit of play. I slipped the lower section on and using the aluminum angle I have the screws lined up with the fairings so I can drill the #2 holes once I get the tap, placing them .3" above the end of the fairing. I will also add a pair of #2 pins to the nose cone for consistency. A single 1/8" vent hole might be enough, but I'll do two for symmetry's sake...

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I received the #2 tap, so the shear pin holes got drilled along with a pair of vent holes. I forgot to add the shear pin holes for the nose cone, but I did order the Kevlar harness for the main, have one already for the drogue. It's getting close to needing only paint. I need to decide if I want ejection canisters, or just use some tape wrapped corner baggies- space is limited. Add the electronics to the sled, drill holes/mount canisters, av bay done. I still need to weigh it to decide on main laundry size. I'm also unsure on the drogue size, if only because I think the rear will have a tendency to 'fly' due to the sail fins. I think based on weight a 1 foot drogue would suffice, but worry how much flutter there might be if it falls too fast.

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This model has two different size body tubes, plus it has the three "radiator" rings. Any buttons on the tubes would require stand-offs of .5" or so on the lower tube, and 1" or so on the 2" tube. The original Astron Andromeda had the launch lugs also on the fin above the rings, and on the rod fairing, so this is really by design.
 
This model has two different size body tubes, plus it has the three "radiator" rings. Any buttons on the tubes would require stand-offs of .5" or so on the lower tube, and 1" or so on the 2" tube. The original Astron Andromeda had the launch lugs also on the fin above the rings, and on the rod fairing, so this is really by design.

Can't help wondering whether Wildman will release any other 'builders' upscales'. An Estes Alien Invader x 3 with a 54mm MMT, perhaps..? 😊
 
Can't help wondering whether Wildman will release any other 'builders' upscales'. An Estes Alien Invader x 3 with a 54mm MMT, perhaps..? 😊
Or if he will get permission from said manufacture to do so...

As long as he calls it a “Foreign Invader” or changes it to red instead of black, he might be ok. You can always send him a .dex file (or whatever that file extension is...). That’s how the Cherokee 98 came about. My buddy sent him a file.
 
As long as he calls it a “Foreign Invader” or changes it to red instead of black, he might be ok. You can always send him a .dex file (or whatever that file extension is...). That’s how the Cherokee 98 came about. My buddy sent him a file.
All good points and food for thought. Anyway, I'm a little concerned that my musings have inadvertently dragged @Wally Ferrer's great thread off topic. So apologies to him - and back to the build.
 
Can't help wondering whether Wildman will release any other 'builders' upscales'. An Estes Alien Invader x 3 with a 54mm MMT, perhaps..? 😊
I have 600dpi scans of both an original and two repros if anybody wants to draft up the components.
 
I have been trying to figure out a switch solution without a switch band. I think I'm going to just do the wire twist, using one of the vent holes perhaps. I did get shear pin holes tapped for the nose cone, and sanded down the bits of rod extending slightly beyond the fairings, there are already plenty of other protrusions for the laundry to get hooked on. I think I'm ready for paint/finishing... 😁

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On rockets without switch bands, I just have one vent hole slightly larger aligned with the switch. A screwdriver/poker doesnt need a finger sized hole
 
I thought about that after I had drilled a couple of vent holes already without taking the switch location into account. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to have a third slightly larger vent/switch hole. It'll just vent better!!! :cheers:
 
I started masking off the fin section so I can get the details and tubes primed and painted black. I realized I hadn't put a drop of epoxy on the back side of two of the rail buttons, so I did that and will sand those down some once cured. Between that and also not having enough gloss black, I probably won't get around to finishing the paint until next week...

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Thanks- I am eager to see how the carbon fiber will look against the black. I had considered painting the rectangle details before attaching, but once I decided to fill the engine blocks with epoxy for the circle details, I committed to tedious masking, or paint it all black. I went with tedious... :headspinning:
 
Thanks- I am eager to see how the carbon fiber will look against the black. I had considered painting the rectangle details before attaching, but once I decided to fill the engine blocks with epoxy for the circle details, I committed to tedious masking, or paint it all black. I went with tedious... :headspinning:

Will you do the fins with a gloss clearcoat spray, or thin laminating epoxy?
 
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