Looking for someone to make waterslide decals for me

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Hobie1dog

Sea Killer rocket
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I've been restoring a 40 yr old scratch built rocket I was gifted by a local 80 yr old gentleman. I would like to get the proper decals for it. I've looked on the web for some but came up empty. This is what I'm needing.
4XmlFAD.jpg


This is what my model now looks like
eiw7enF.jpg


Before pictures:
nx53C1o.jpg

Solrw5K.jpg


Thanks
 
Nice restoration. Any place local that does custom printing? You could buy some Testor's or MicroMark decal paper, take it to them, and get it printed. Call them 1st, find out what type of printer they have, laser - inkjet or ??? and go from there.
 
I will print them for you if you can supply ready-to-print image files. These will be on white decal paper. Just FYI:

1675174179672.png
The first and third decals will need to be cut out very precisely.

The second decal is white text on dark background. How do you plan to do this? The only way you can do it with self-print waterslides is to try to match the green background in the decal image.

Also, right now they'll have to be laser printed, since my inkjet printer is not playing nice with my decal paper right now, and I haven't figured it out yet. Colors won't be quite as vibrant.
 
I will print them for you if you can supply ready-to-print image files. These will be on white decal paper. Just FYI:

View attachment 560559
The first and third decals will need to be cut out very precisely.

The second decal is white text on dark background. How do you plan to do this? The only way you can do it with self-print waterslides is to try to match the green background in the decal image.

Also, right now they'll have to be laser printed, since my inkjet printer is not playing nice with my decal paper right now, and I haven't figured it out yet. Colors won't be quite as vibrant.

Topmost graphic likely suffers the same difficulty as the second-down graphic: white. See attached image from a later mission (red circle/x over non-mission-compatible graphics).

The best tradeoff of accuracy/detail vs cost/difficulty, is to probably print a full airframe wrap on full page white sticker paper. The full airframe wrap would have all the teal and graphics on it. Will wrap over the already painted airframe.
 

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Hey Marty... saw this on FB this morning...

View attachment 560562
I sent an email and received a reply back within 2 hours I think and he said he can do the 3 decals for $10 and $2.75 shipping. :goodjob: He will send a proof sheet for me to approve......this way I won't be aggravating the members on here
 
I sent an email and received a reply back within 2 hours I think and he said he can do the 3 decals for $10 and $2.75 shipping. :goodjob: He will send a proof sheet for me to approve......this way I won't be aggravating the members on here
Let us know how this works out. If I were you though.... I'd take @neil_w up on his generous offer. I'm more inclined to go with a known commodity.
 
I will print them for you if you can supply ready-to-print image files. These will be on white decal paper. Just FYI:

View attachment 560559
The first and third decals will need to be cut out very precisely.

The second decal is white text on dark background. How do you plan to do this? The only way you can do it with self-print waterslides is to try to match the green background in the decal image.

Also, right now they'll have to be laser printed, since my inkjet printer is not playing nice with my decal paper right now, and I haven't figured it out yet. Colors won't be quite as vibrant.
thanks for the generous offer but let me see what the guy comes back with for me to approve as I have just about that amount in my PayPal without having to bother you all on here about it.
 
I’m happy to print these for free if you have graphics. Would need to be at least 300dpi or vector. I have a laser printer and clear paper, and was planning to get white paper also. Perhaps you can get find paper punches for the cutouts at a craft store.
 
I’m happy to print these for free if you have graphics. Would need to be at least 300dpi or vector. I have a laser printer and clear paper, and was planning to get white paper also. Perhaps you can get find paper punches for the cutouts at a craft store.
thanks for the offer John I will keep you in mind as one of the links above is a guy who advertises on Facebook and has responded back and is going to print out a proof for me to approve, as he is super cheap on pricing. but I know where to go in the future :p
 
As both @neil_w and @jhill9693 have offered, we too are getting heavy into making waterslides and other appliques up to and including vinyl decals. My darling bride's side hustle/hangin' out with her Mom gig now intersects with OUR need to make the grandchildren lasting gifts AND my "need" to make rockets look cool (before I try to lose them). :)

The real key to making them is the artwork. Vector graphics make things so much easier. Even if you have to convert high-res tiff, jpg, png, etc. to vector (PDF is quite portable and readily convertible to OTHER vector formats), it is worth it to do it the ONE time, and then NOT lose the vector files. ;)

White text IS a challenge (as is white ANYTHING on a darker background) and there are numerous ways to address it... It all depends on substrate, finishing system for substrate, etc.
 
I received my decals today and initially they look fantastic so now I will have to see if I can apply them without messing them up. :p
47gvylU.jpg
That looks great and they were able to print white, which us mere mortals can't. :) 👍

Btw- I've read that spraying clear coat helps with fragile decals. For self-printing on inkjet decal paper, it's usually a required step. Ymmv EDIT: Not necessary on ALPS decals.
 
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Also research decal application if you're not familiar with it since it's a whole process. I use soapy water quick dip, followed by leaving it on a plastic lid for a few minutes, test with a finger to see if it's ready to slide, wet the surface with some soapy water, position, slide off, adjust (if it grabs too quick, I dab a few drops of soapy water around edges with my finger), dab & pat down gently with a towel.

Feel free to PM me if you need any help. I'm not an expert, but I have completed some fairly elaborate decal jobs.
 
It came with application instructions and they mentioned using microset to the surface of the model you're putting it on, it said using water with a few drops of microset is ideal
 
Btw- I've read that spraying clear coat helps with fragile decals. For self-printing on inkjet decal paper, it's usually a required step. Ymmv
I confirm. After your decals are completely dry, adding a layer of either matte clear or gloss clear, depending on the look you want, is a very good idea. I usually do one coat over the whole rocket, and a second coat over just the decals to really lock them down.
 
I confirm. After your decals are completely dry, adding a layer of either matte clear or gloss clear, depending on the look you want, is a very good idea. I usually do one coat over the whole rocket, and a second coat over just the decals to really lock them down.
Thanks for the tip
 
Thanks for the tip
Just make sure your paint is 100% completely dry before applying any clear coat, otherwise you risk the dreaded spiderwebbing. If you have any doubt, hold the rocket up to your nose and smell it. If you catch any whiff of paint, WAIT. It's still outgassing and not completely dry. It may take weeks to completely dry depending on conditions, but being patient is better than your paint spiderwebbing. Leaving the rocket somewhere warm can speed up drying.
 
It came with application instructions and they mentioned using microset to the surface of the model you're putting it on, it said using water with a few drops of microset is ideal
I thought of mentioning that, but didn't since I haven't used it in decades and the last time I did, I brushed it on a decal (as per a friend's suggestion) and the decal wrinkled up all over...really badly. :facepalm: 😢

However, adding it to the decal solution sounds like it should be fine.

I actually recently picked up a Microset and Microsol set on Amazon (Note they're not cheap) for $12.50 for both (pic and description wasn't totally clear it was both, but I got both):
Decal Setting Solution-Micro Scale Micro Sol 102 + Micro Set 101 Package Decal https://a.co/d/aTWVKFW

Of note is that I ended up not needing it for my decal job and soapy water worked fine. YMMV since decals can vary a lot.
20230207_173456.jpg
20230212_181340.jpg
 
I thought of mentioning that, but didn't since I haven't used it in decades and the last time I did, I brushed it on a decal (as per a friend's suggestion) and the decal wrinkled up all over...really badly. :facepalm: 😢

However, adding it to the decal solution sounds like it should be fine.

I actually recently picked up a Microset and Microsol set on Amazon (Note they're not cheap) for $12.50 for both (pic and description wasn't totally clear it was both, but I got both):
Decal Setting Solution-Micro Scale Micro Sol 102 + Micro Set 101 Package Decal https://a.co/d/aTWVKFW

Of note is that I ended up not needing it for my decal job and soapy water worked fine. YMMV since decals can vary a lot.
View attachment 563229
View attachment 563228
beautiful,, I'm just going to, do soapy water He sent 2 sets and I'm just going to use one of them.
 
Are those ALPS printed? I don't know what else they could be, given the layered white printing. Do ALPS-printed decals need to be clear-coated before soaking? I gotta check that guy out if he's really printing with ALPS. Just emailed him with some questions.

For what it's worth, I never add Microset or soap to my soaking water. I *do* wet the surface of the rocket with Microset before applying; you definitely want some moisture where the decal is going to go so you'll be able to adjust position. When it's in place you'll want to get the excess water out from under the decal; rolling (not wiping) a Q-tip is a good method.
 
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Are those ALPS printed? I don't know what else they could be, given the layered white printing. Do ALPS-printed decals need to be clear-coated before soaking? I gotta check that guy out if he's really printing with ALPS. Just emailed him with some questions.

For what it's worth, I never add Microset or soap to my soaking water. I *do* wet the surface of the rocket with Microset before applying; you definitely want some moisture where the decal is going to go so you'll be able to adjust position. When it's in place you'll want to get the excess water out from under the decal; rolling (not wiping) a Q-tip is a good method.
I had no idea what ALPS Printed meant... so in case others don't know either....

Hey.. I learned something today!

Nice "tip" about using a Q-tip. I always just dab the applied decals with a paper towel.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MicroDry
 
I had no idea what ALPS Printed meant... so in case others don't know either....
Well, it's not clear what he's actually using. He emailed me that he is using "a modified digital printer". That is, shall we say, somewhat vague.

However, he did say his decals do *not* need clear-coating (so whatever they are, they are not standard inkjet.)
Nice "tip" about using a Q-tip. I always just dab the applied decals with a paper towel.
The Q-tip rolling technique (hat tip to @hcmbanjo, probably) lets you squeegee the water out from under the decal without abrading the surface.

My weird alternative is to use a cheap paintbrush, holding it very flat and pushing gently in the opposite direction (towards the bristles):
1676384805767.png
This works great as a gentle squeegee and is bizarrely satisfying. I used to have a GIF that showed this but can't find it (it's somewhere on TRF, but who knows how to locate it).
 
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