Lakeroadster's Lifting Rocket

Discussion in 'Scratch Built' started by lakeroadster, Dec 27, 2018.

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  1. Feb 14, 2019 #181

    neil_w

    neil_w

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    If you would put an Estes E9 or E12 in there you're a braver man than I am.

    Nice book stack. :)
     
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  2. Feb 14, 2019 #182

    Jonathan 7

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    Props! Those centering rings, and bulkheads too, are TOUGH to pull off. Well done!
     
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  3. Feb 14, 2019 #183

    lakeroadster

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    Agreed. But it takes very little effort to make space for a 1 inch longer motor, which gives a BAR options. Then, just throw in a 1" spacer and run D12's.
     
  4. Feb 15, 2019 #184

    Crawf56

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    Great stuff. I want to see an image showing the arrangement of the ignition system. ;)

    I have had a bad experience with forward-engine rocket glider, where the connectors fell and 'hooded' the rear of the model.
     
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  5. Feb 15, 2019 #185

    lakeroadster

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    Thanks for the comment.

    That's another useful purpose of the strut rods.. or what you may call "anti-hooding" rods.

    My initial thought is to build a fixture that has (3) vertical rods rising up from below the rocket to above the cluster. The ignition wires run up through the tubes. Once ignition occurs, the wires fall away from the rocket. I'll make a CAD model and post it up for comments and suggestions.

    TLR-3 Rev 0 Sheet 1 of 6.jpg
     
  6. Feb 15, 2019 #186

    lakeroadster

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    More work on the fin can. Post 1 of 3

    This is kind of photo intense.. just want to make it clear how I did these steps.

    The fins are 3 plys of Balsa, the center ply and the (2) outer ply's

    Here the insert is held in place along with the center ply and one outer ply
    001.JPG
    __________________________
    I am using a Dewalt countersink bit and turning it by hand. First drilling through the center dowel hole and through the outer ply.
    002.JPG
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    Here the bit is fully engaged
    003.JPG 004.JPG
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    The dowels are 3/16" diameter
    004A.JPG
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    Hard to see but there is a dowel in place in the center hole. This dowel is temporary and just in place to hold the insert in place. I repeated the process for the outer dowel hole and placed another temporary dowel
    005.JPG 006.JPG
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2019
  7. Feb 15, 2019 #187

    lakeroadster

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    More work on the fin can. Post 2 of 3

    I sanded a bit of a chamfer on the dowel and then cut them using a Craftsman Accu-Cut pliers
    008.JPG 009.JPG 010.JPG
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    Then sand the dowel to length and check length with dial calipers
    011.JPG
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    Next step is to drill the final dowel hole, then place the other outer ply in position and use the existing hole to drill thru it.
    012.JPG
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    Now insert the short dowel and push it into place. Note that no glue has been used yet. Repeat the hand drilling and dowel insertion to replace the remaining (2) dowels.
    013.JPG 014.JPG
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2019
  8. Feb 15, 2019 #188

    neil_w

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    Cool stuff. Interesting drill bit, don't think I've seen one of those before (I'm not much of a woodworker).

    Also relieved to see that your "Wooden Round Dowels" are "Made of Real Wood!" ;)
     
  9. Feb 15, 2019 #189

    lakeroadster

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    More work on the fin can. Post 3 of 3

    Time for some glue. Remove the outer ply from the dowels. Apply glue to the face of the outer ply and into the dowel holes. Place the outer ply into position, pressing it over the dowels. Flip the fin over, push the dowel down, place glue in the (3) dowel holes. Flip the fin over and push the dowels back down so they are flush with the face of the outer ply
    05A.JPG
    __________________________
    Place the fins on wax paper and apply weight to keep them flat while drying.
    016.JPG 017.JPG 018.JPG
     
  10. Feb 15, 2019 #190

    lakeroadster

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    The drill bits are for old school decking screws. Really nice for making the screws flush without splintering the wood. I've used them for a multitude of projects other than decks too!

    In today's world.. between lawyers and fake everything... I'm guessing saying it twice was the marketing guys idea.
     
  11. Feb 16, 2019 #191

    lakeroadster

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    Here's the ignition arrangement... Comments / Suggestions are appreciated.
    Launch Support TLR Rev 0.png
     
  12. Feb 16, 2019 #192

    Nytrunner

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    Looks good from here. The pipes keep the whip from catching on various protuberances.

    Bucket?
     
  13. Feb 16, 2019 #193

    lakeroadster

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    Stabilizes the horse, catches motor parts in the event of a CATO, nice for putting out fires.
     
  14. Feb 16, 2019 #194

    lakeroadster

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    So I screwed up and didn't quite leave enough extension on the fin for the through wall mount. :(

    To turn lemons into lemonade, I came up with a fix that should make the attachment even stronger. Basically balsa reinforcing pads that attach to the motor tube. I sanded the re-pads to fit the contour of the motor tube.

    004.JPG 007.JPG 008.JPG 001.JPG 002.JPG 003.JPG
     
  15. Feb 16, 2019 #195

    neil_w

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    Excellent fix, I’ll need to remember one. Could be helpful to do that intentionally in some instances methinks.
     
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  16. Feb 16, 2019 #196

    lakeroadster

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    The motor tube is only 0.013 thick. It may have been intervention by the God of Perpetual Fin Shredding. :D
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2019
  17. Feb 17, 2019 #197

    Jonathan 7

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    0.013 ... a standard BT-50,then?
     
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  18. Feb 17, 2019 #198

    Crawf56

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    Coming from the world of rocket boost gliders: Is there a concern with the weight of the wires on the motor igniters?
     
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  19. Feb 17, 2019 #199

    lakeroadster

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    Good point. Easy enough to put a strain relief inside the top of each of the 3 pvc tubes to support the wires.
     
  20. Feb 17, 2019 #200

    Jonathan 7

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    Or simply offset the PVC tubes so part of the wire rests on the edge of the tubing.
     
  21. Feb 17, 2019 #201

    lakeroadster

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    Not really. The goal here is that once the motor lights, there is nothing hanging out of the pvc tube that can snag the fins.
     
  22. Feb 17, 2019 #202

    lakeroadster

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    Another day.. another revision to the fin can sub-assy.

    I went to glue the first fin into the motor mount and wasn't happy with the fit. Everything was sloppy and alignment of the fin onto the motor mount was basically a blind fit.

    So I revised the motor mount by gluing on 1/8" square balsa fin guides. These hold the fins in place and also give more glue surface area to make the joint stronger.

    Now, fill the trough with glue, slide the motor mount into the body tube and place the fins into the glued guides.

    It's been an adventure, but so far so good.

    The lower centering is still not glued on, just shown in the photo for ref.

    001.JPG 002.JPG 003.JPG TLR-3 DWG REV 2 Motor Mount.jpg TLR-3 DWG REV 2 Sheet 5 of 6.jpg 004.JPG 005.JPG 006.JPG
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2019
  23. Feb 17, 2019 #203

    lakeroadster

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    I love it when a plan comes together. :D lots of glue fillets yet to do....
    008.JPG 009.JPG 011.JPG
    __________________
    And a preview of coming attractions...

    012.JPG
     
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  24. Feb 18, 2019 #204

    lakeroadster

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    Glue fillets on the fin to motor mount attachment.

    Using Gorilla Wood Glue.. I like it better than Titebond Quick&Thick. The Gorilla glue, being thinner, gets into all the nooks and crannies much better. But it's a slow process.

    001.JPG 002.JPG 003.JPG
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2019
  25. Feb 20, 2019 #205

    rstaff3

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    Interesting, well engineered solution. I always just attached long pigtails to each igniter and then connected them below the rocket.
     
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  26. Feb 20, 2019 #206

    lakeroadster

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    Finished all the glue fillets on the motor mount yesterday.

    Today I cut the rear stiffener ring to fit around the fins and then installed the motor mount - fin subass'y into the body tube. This entailed gluing the forward fin sections and the front motor mount centering ring to the BT-60.
    002.JPG 002A.JPG 003.JPG 003A.JPG 004.JPG 005.JPG 006A.JPG 006B.JPG

    Anybody else here "spin" the body tube when making internal glue fillets? I've found that when gluing internal items, such as Centering Rings and Motor Thrust Rings, that spinning the body tube allows centrifugal force to push the glue outward and create more uniform internal glue fillets.

    007.JPG



    Here's a video:
     
  27. Feb 20, 2019 #207

    neil_w

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    Lookin’ great. What were you doing with the hole punch?
     
  28. Feb 20, 2019 #208

    lakeroadster

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    The stiffener fits over the rear of the body tube and a portion of it straddles the fins. So I cut the edges and used the hole punch to make a nice round radius at the end of the slot.

    Hole Punch.JPG
     
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  29. Feb 21, 2019 #209

    Crawf56

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    Go do
    that voo-doo
    that you do
    so well! :p
     
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  30. Feb 21, 2019 #210

    Rockyt

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    So, just a comment...
    Next to diagram labeled "5" please let me know what an 'ignition wipe' is :D
     

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