Thanks!My old batch has done this a time or two. Heating it in a water bath and stirring it up made most of it go away. I buy super stout table spoons from the local thrift store.
Thanks!My old batch has done this a time or two. Heating it in a water bath and stirring it up made most of it go away. I buy super stout table spoons from the local thrift store.
This is where I'm headed next, if I don't just move into acceptance and use it.- have you attempted any batches with adjusted resin:hardener ratios? I am thinking a batch with like 1% more hardener and then another batch with 1% more resin. Maybe even a batch or two with slightly more of each. At this point, I would just be interested in the experiment.
If it makes a difference, it may be useful feedback to Glenmarc. If either the resin or the hardener is less efficacious you would expect they would like to know their G5000 product has got an issue, at least for that batch.This is where I'm headed next, if I don't just move into acceptance and use it.
Yep, I already have a draft email that I'm working on attaching pictures to (even if the pics aren't of much value overall).If it makes a difference, it may be useful feedback to Glenmarc. If either the resin or the hardener is less efficacious you would expect they would like to know their G5000 product has got an issue, at least for that batch.
This makes a lot of sense. I bought my second batch of RP last year, my first batch in 2020 or 2019. The consistency of the epoxy and hardener in the 2 batches were completely different. In the first batch the epoxy has thick and the hardener thinner (& flowed better). In the 2nd batch it was the exact opposite. The 2nd batch was basically the same once mixed and setup the same, but there were definitely differences.JUST TO ADD SOME "POSSIBLE BACKGROUND"...
ANYTHING that has to due with resins has been VERY disrupted by the pandemic and supply chain issues. We use custom manufactured epoxy at work. We have had to pay a $3000-5000 surcharge (yes 3-5k EXTRA) to make a 5 gal batch of harder. We also have had to work with the manufacturer to "reformulate" it twice, due to component supply issues. This is a BIG deal for industry.
I would be willing to bet at the basic chemistry level there are some changes in a LOT of epoxies. If the original purchasing company and manufacturer feel it is equivalent, they likely don't tell down stream customers of the changes. (THEY ARE ALL PROPRIETARY, AND NOT DISCLOSED ANYHOW.)
We have seen some residue on the surface of freshly cured items. It's likely humidity in the air reacting with some components. Give it 3-5 days to finish curing and wipe with alcohol or acetone. The other option is a moderate temperature "post cure" for a few hours after the initial 24 hour room temp cure. This will drive off the moisture, and finish the cure. The surface will likely not get that coating again, even in high humidity environments.
[ Edit : To make it perfectly clear; I have NOTHING to due with any of the specific epoxies, or manufacturers, in this thread. It is ALL SPECULATION, based on some industry exposure. ]
I have never had that happen. I wonder if that might be an environmental difference.A friend had his L3 rocket (4" rocket with 3" motor) come apart using Rocketpoxy. Some surfaces were still sticky after weeks.
I recently did just this. I heated the tubs in a water bath to 100F and used a pair of super stout spoons purchased from the thrift store to stir, stir, stir, stir. Took all of about 20 minutes, start to finish.....but it still didn't change how my current new batch is performing.Question about Rocketpoxy. Since the solids settle to the bottom of the white resin container so fast, what is everyone doing to get the solids scraped off the bottom and mixed back into the resin, especially when the container is almost full? Any shortcuts, or is it just a lot of mixing and stirring required?
How are you guys measuring Rocketpoxy? I just mix up small quantities, and it's difficult to dig the stuff out of the jar with popsicle sticks, or whatever.
https://www.amazon.com/Coopay-Plast...1674696564&sprefix=epoxy+cups,aps,123&sr=8-12How are you guys measuring Rocketpoxy?
I've tried doing that, but the stuff is so thick that I can't seem to be able to get accurate amounts. i.e. I under or over shoot and it's hard to adjust it.I bought a stack of 4" paper plates at the dollar store that I put on the scale. I usually fold up one side so I can see the scale readout. I put enough of the first part on the plate and then add the second until the weight is doubled. 10 - 15 grams of each part goes a long ways.
It is kind of a pain, but I do the brown hardener first, the white resin flows better so you can let it drip off a stick slowly and cut it off with another stick to get it pretty close. It's not like it has to be ±0.1gram. I'm usually good if it's within a gram of the doubled weight I'm looking for, or about 5% of the total I'm looking for. i.e. 15g of hardener and 14-16g of resin.I've tried doing that, but the stuff is so thick that I can't seem to be able to get accurate amounts. i.e. I under or over shoot and it's hard to adjust it.
Hans.
Question about Rocketpoxy. Since the solids settle to the bottom of the white resin container so fast, what is everyone doing to get the solids scraped off the bottom and mixed back into the resin, especially when the container is almost full? Any shortcuts, or is it just a lot of mixing and stirring required?
What type of plastic? As in PLA or blow molded nose cones? Yes to both, in my experience, but I always use 60 grit surface prep to make sure there is a lot of mechanical surface. Never had something break free or shed the RP.Does anyone know if Rocketpoxy will stick to plastic?
I am making my centering rings out of PETG.What type of plastic? As in PLA or blow molded nose cones? Yes to both, in my experience, but I always use 60 grit surface prep to make sure there is a lot of mechanical surface. Never had something break free or shed the RP.
I've had ok with PETG; same techniques as banzai.I am making my centering rings out of PETG.
Thanks- I will try it.I've had ok with PETG; same techniques as banzai.
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