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Interceptor E Build—- Pursley Skin

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BABAR

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BABAR

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Those extensions make it really hard to get everything lined up. Fortunately these are through the wall fins so I don't think the Gap will be a structural problem in the fillets will certainly hide it as well as the overall vinyl skins
 

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BABAR

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Nice save.
Does John mention anything about using soapy water to reposition decals and squegee out bubbles and wrinkles?
Wondering if that technique can be used with this type of vinyl and adhesive.
Repositioning within the first 5 or 10 minutes really isn't that hard. You have to be gentle and careful and removing them. Beyond that I haven't tried but it says they become permanent after a while which is in fact what you want. In fact I've actually made several boo boos which I haven't bothered to log here where I put the wrong skin in the wrong place and had to pull it off and stick it back on the right side
 

neil_w

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From here it looks like you did an excellent job on the nose.

For mine, I just cut out the window decals and let the black paint show around them.
1606615919998.png

(arrows show all the places I applied scotch tape "fixes")
 

BABAR

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Maybe something original maybe not


for the tail cone for this I'm going to paint this yellow.

I've already demonstrated how I'm using the removable flat replaceable shock cord technique. The cord with tail cone is it's going to be a little difficult to access.

I think what I will do is attach the shock cord to the plastic on the nail cone of the tail cone by putting some holes in it from the back.

I can then put the tail cone in after I paint it. It will be attached by the shock cord.

I don't think it would fall out anyway but even if it does it will be attached by the shock cord and when I need to replace the shock cord all I need to do is pull the tail cone out.

I also enlarged the slot for the engine hook
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AfterBurners

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I like idea of the wrap but it doesn't look like it covers too well? I'm not sure if that was the intended design of the wrap and it looks difficult to install / apply. IDK am I wrong? I have a hard time putting decals on let alone wrapping something. I tell you what wish I had an interceptor E. Nice kit. Wish Estes would bring it back.
 

BABAR

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I like idea of the wrap but it doesn't look like it covers too well? I'm not sure if that was the intended design of the wrap and it looks difficult to install / apply. IDK am I wrong? I have a hard time putting decals on let alone wrapping something. I tell you what wish I had an interceptor E. Nice kit. Wish Estes would bring it back.
It adds an interesting dimension to the build, especially different as, if you go by the instructions as I for the most part have, you skin the tube before you attach the 6 total fins ( 2 wings, 2 dorsal rudders, and 2 ventral fins.). Then you have to try to avoid getting glue on the wrap you put on the tube while you glue on said fins (and apply fillets, then you wrap the fins.

I am glad I clear coated the wraps as instructed, I think the one layer was enough, although I would have preferred two, I was more concerned that I would mess them up. (Had a very bad experience building an Estes SR-71 I am sure I have mentioned before, where I clear coated AFTER decals and got total orange peel, destroying not only my smooth black coat but ALL the decals.)

I just got a Cosmic Interceptor off E Bay to go with a Skin I bought as a package deal with this one. I think I will go with two layers of clear coat on the wraps, and be more liberal with the blue tape before laying down the fillets (sort of like some people use tape “dams.”). I will then use a blade to cut the “edge” of the fillet by the tape, so I can lift the tape clean even it the fillet crosses it. In the instruction John says using the extra overlap of the fin skins requires “master builder” skills, I am FAR from a Master builder but I didn’t find it that difficult at all. While cutting an “edge” with a knife might make a mark or spoil the paint, it will be cleanly covered the the overlapping skin.

Of course the dark color is pretty forgiving, the Cosmic Interceptor has the light chameleon skin, and while the “chameleon” look (basically a bunch of small scattered rectangles of varying shades and sizes) probably helps, is suspect ANY edges are going to be more obvious on a lighter background,

I have an Estes Outlander in my build pile that, assuming I go Stock on paint job will require repainting of parts and masking of attachment sites.
 

AfterBurners

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All and all I think you did a pretty good job on the build. Its funny you mentioned the edge cutting with a razor blade. I had to do the same thing when I brush painted my friends foam RC plane. I had masked off a checkered board pattern on the underside of the wing. I went to pull the tape and the paint wanted to come up. It was then I realized that a blade would work in this case cutting the rubbery paint. It turned out good.

Anyway good luck on the rest of the build. Take your time.

I always thought the original pattern on the E Interceptor was done with an air brush?
 

BABAR

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Inside rudder fin way too much overlap.

First pic without
Second dry fit
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BABAR

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Blacked out the white edge. I try to remember to do this on all the wraps pre placement. REALLY helps
 

BABAR

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One trick I use since I use a metal straight edge ruler to get straight cuts but I don't want to scratch the Skins I use a piece of cardstock or better yet a recycled mail ER or lawn marker to lie between the sheet and the ruler so I don't scratch the wrap.
16066986559465368005275144861861.jpg
 

BABAR

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the pod slot doesn't include the entire edge of the wing which I should have thought of before so now I have a bare patch. I'm going to be a bit daring and trim that off so I can bring the Pod right to the edge of the vinyl wrap. Moral of the story is that you have to bring that Wing wrap all the way to the
16067736369675813100820035038883.jpg
lateral Leading Edge of the wing which I didn't do.
 
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BABAR

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BABAR

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Okay I'm going to go out on a limb here. I'm going to tape the edges of the pot slot with blue tape and put some Gorilla Glue in the Pod slot then put the pods on and let the Pod dangle to get the glue over is the joint. I don't think a fillet is going to help much.

I will use plain Elmer's Glue which is supposed to dry clear for the fillet when I'm done.

Glue went in clean and ran away from the slot. Then I put that on the wing, taped it down so hopefully no Gorilla Glue will leak out. Then repositioned the rocket so the glue goes to the joint. Fingers crossed.
1606778073993758343983819053983.jpg
 
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BABAR

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Some nose cone shots
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mbeels

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Yeah, yellow was a good choice. Nice work on the nose cone.
 

BABAR

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Thanks gentleman!
Moment of truth on the use of polyurethane glue (gorilla glue) and tape for pod adhesion
Pre and post tape removal

Wow! I am really happy with this. For the win! This thing is Rock Solid.
 

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BABAR

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One thing that scares me a bit about this rocket is the pods sticking out make a great lever arm for breaking off a wing on Landing. If there's not too much I can do about it. John Pursley recommends upgrading the chute from 30 in to 36 in. Looks like there's plenty of room for a larger chut3 in the body tube. I launched in a mixture of asphalt and grass and as you might imagine the probability of landing on the asphalt is directly proportional to the amount of time finishing the rocket. Oh well. I also may put a touch of tape on the tip of the pods and on the bottoms of the caudal fins to protect it them on Landing.
 

BABAR

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Tape and drop glue in trough

Wipe off excess. All the glue is now on wrong side, but wait

Slide in place

Tape over joint, burnish over joint

Set up root side DOWN, so glue will run back down from back side to joint
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BABAR

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If it works for pods...
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neil_w

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Dry fit antenna and tail cone
One thing that is pretty clear from the dry fit photos is how the eye is preoccupied with the whole of the design, and not any small imperfections. Looks great.
 
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