Lately I've been building small, low power rockets and I feel like it's time to build something a little larger. With our clubs flying season over, I'm looking forward to building some larger rockets for our Seed Farm launch next spring.
On the bench is a Dragon Rocketry AT-3 Sagger Anti-Tank Missile. When I first saw this one hit the website I knew I was going to buy it. I love the look of short fat rockets.
https://dragonrocketry.com/products/4-at-3-sagger
Excuse the pun but this thing is built like a tank. I've test fit everything together and it all fits perfect. The quality of the parts is awesome and I have no doubt I could put the biggest motor my certification would allow me to buy in it and it would handle it fine.
- Body tube is 4 inch heavy wall. The fin slots are precut and the tube is marked for the fins and rail buttons.
- Nose cone is 3D printed. These are some of the nicer 3D printed parts I've seen. These have a nice consistent finish that will be easy to sand and finish.
- Fins and 1/4" plywood.
- Tail cone is 3D printed and the same quality as the nose cone.
- Centering Rings are 1/4" plywood wood.
- Motor tube is 38mm heavy wall tubing.
- Includes and 38mm motor retainer.
- 29mm motor adapter and retainer.
- Kit also included a eye bolt, rail buttons and a length of Kevlar as a leader for the shock cord.
- Nose weight is included as well.
Like many of my previous builds, I'm shooting to keep weight to a minimum as I'd really like to be able to fly this on normal club launch days in additional to the few chances we get to fly on the big field. For me that means F and G motors. During this build I'm going to be swapping out certain parts for lighter components in and effort to meet this goal.
First step is building the motor mount. For this I have removed the outer layer of the motor tube where the upper centering ring and fins will attach as well as a smaller section at the rear of the tube where the motor retainer will attach.
First modification. I have replaced the upper centering ring with a thinner 1/8" piece. A small backer has been added for additional strength where the screw eye will attach.
The backer plate was attached to the under side of the upper ring the upper rings was then attached to the motor tubed using T-88 epoxy.
Going to let this cure for a few hours before continuing.
On the bench is a Dragon Rocketry AT-3 Sagger Anti-Tank Missile. When I first saw this one hit the website I knew I was going to buy it. I love the look of short fat rockets.
https://dragonrocketry.com/products/4-at-3-sagger
Excuse the pun but this thing is built like a tank. I've test fit everything together and it all fits perfect. The quality of the parts is awesome and I have no doubt I could put the biggest motor my certification would allow me to buy in it and it would handle it fine.
- Body tube is 4 inch heavy wall. The fin slots are precut and the tube is marked for the fins and rail buttons.
- Nose cone is 3D printed. These are some of the nicer 3D printed parts I've seen. These have a nice consistent finish that will be easy to sand and finish.
- Fins and 1/4" plywood.
- Tail cone is 3D printed and the same quality as the nose cone.
- Centering Rings are 1/4" plywood wood.
- Motor tube is 38mm heavy wall tubing.
- Includes and 38mm motor retainer.
- 29mm motor adapter and retainer.
- Kit also included a eye bolt, rail buttons and a length of Kevlar as a leader for the shock cord.
- Nose weight is included as well.
Like many of my previous builds, I'm shooting to keep weight to a minimum as I'd really like to be able to fly this on normal club launch days in additional to the few chances we get to fly on the big field. For me that means F and G motors. During this build I'm going to be swapping out certain parts for lighter components in and effort to meet this goal.
First step is building the motor mount. For this I have removed the outer layer of the motor tube where the upper centering ring and fins will attach as well as a smaller section at the rear of the tube where the motor retainer will attach.
First modification. I have replaced the upper centering ring with a thinner 1/8" piece. A small backer has been added for additional strength where the screw eye will attach.
The backer plate was attached to the under side of the upper ring the upper rings was then attached to the motor tubed using T-88 epoxy.
Going to let this cure for a few hours before continuing.
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