Build Thread: SBR Thor 54

[gerbs4me]

I like the idea of using clips and sticks to help with fin alignment.
rocket looks great so far!

 

[NateB]

I like the idea of using clips and sticks to help with fin alignment.
rocket looks great so far!

Thanks! It's almost ready to fly. I just want to borrow my Mom's Cricut and make some replacement decals similar to the wrap I couldn't get to lay right.

I first saw the idea to use clips and sticks to ensure fin alignment in the stickied 3" Darkstar thread from Crazy Jim.

 

[NateB]

I ended up getting replacement decals from Stickershock. This was a nightmare to finish, but I'm happy with it. Can't wait to fly now.

 

[Astronaut Cheeseball]

Nice build thread the Thor turned out great. Can't even tell the upper wrap is missing.

 

[kenstarr]

Looks awesome! I recently finished up the SBR Fusion. Pretty swell kits I must say. Yours looks like the pictures from their website!

 

[firemanup]

The wraps drive me insane, ive done two and screamed and cussed for 60+ minutes each time.

Prefer the old decals on the thor myself but then thats what i got started into rocketry with many years ago.

Yours is looking great!

 

[NateB]

The wraps drive me insane, ive done two and screamed and cussed for 60+ minutes each time.

Prefer the old decals on the thor myself but then thats what i got started into rocketry with many years ago.

Yours is looking great!

The wrap was a nice idea, but I didn't like it. I couldn't find the right shade to match the yellow printed on the wrap and I couldn't get it to lay down right. The graphics look nice, just not for me. I ended up using the whole decal set from Stickershock except for the gold foil, I liked gold from the kit better. I like how complete the SBR kit was, even though I used some of my own parts due to my preference.

The first flight will be on a G motor, I just need to decide if I want to fly a Spitfire or Cocktail motor first. Both sim to around 1300' on Thrust Curve then the H100 Sims to 2500' and the H125 to 3188'.

 

[tOD]

Nice build. I just got one for Christmas so I'll be referring back to this thread.
I had a Li'l Thor that disappeared on it's maiden flight.

 

[DarthMuffin]

Can you spray a little soapy water under the wraps to allow them to slide a bit? Same trick that's used with vinyl on cars. With the tubes primered I wouldn't think a little misted water would be a problem.

 

[firemanup]

Can you spray a little soapy water under the wraps to allow them to slide a bit? Same trick that's used with vinyl on cars. With the tubes primered I wouldn't think a little misted water would be a problem.

Hadn't thought of that, not sure if it would work or not but worth a try if i ever have to deal with another one.

 

[Hobie1dog]

I recently got a Diablo kit and that 3D printed nosecone looks like it is going to be a major PITA. A smooth fiberglass or plastic nosecone would save so much time. I'm dreading the thought of having to go out and buy more longer setting Epoxy, then buy Toluene to thin it out 70%, spread it on, then still have to put multiple layers of primer and lots of sanding to come up with a smooth surface. I'm going to look for another NC before I go through all that crap. My life is too short to spend many hours on getting a NC smooth just because it was cheaper to make a 3D printed one..

 

[Astronaut Cheeseball]

Hadn't thought of that, not sure if it would work or not but worth a try if i ever have to deal with another one.

The vinyl material is made with an air-release technology that allows the bubbles to be pushed out upon application. With that said if the material gets creased or wrinkled your done. This was my first attempt at a wrap and choked the gold section with a crease by ripping off several times in the attempt of achieving a perfect final line seam. Best practices are to take the extra time and go inch by inch down the tube with an ultra soft micro cloth while keeping a tight seam to get the bubbles out. My 4" thor was very challenging to say the least and took the entire afternoon to get right. I walked away a few times to gain some composure but refused to give up. I had the tube totally primered and spiral filled because the vinyl won't hide anything to the naked eye. The final results are worth the extra effort and sore fingers the key for me was to try and remain patient in these final steps of the build.

 

[firemanup]

The vinyl material is made with an air-release technology that allows the bubbles to be pushed out upon application. With that said if the material gets creased or wrinkled your done. This was my first attempt at a wrap and choked the gold section with a crease by ripping off several times in the attempt of achieving a perfect final line seam. Best practices are to take the extra time and go inch by inch down the tube with an ultra soft micro cloth while keeping a tight seam to get the bubbles out. My 4" thor was very challenging to say the least and took the entire afternoon to get right. I walked away a few times to gain some composure but refused to give up. I had the tube totally primered and spiral filled because the vinyl won't hide anything to the naked eye. The final results are worth the extra effort and sore fingers the key for me was to try and remain patient in these final steps of the build.

I was doing a 5” Fusion and the wrap is over 50” long and fully wraps the rocket. Ive done the gold wrap on the old 4” Thors and that was simple compared to the full body wraps.

 

[Scottydog1]

I recently got a Diablo kit and that 3D printed nosecone looks like it is going to be a major PITA. A smooth fiberglass or plastic nosecone would save so much time. I'm dreading the thought of having to go out and buy more longer setting Epoxy, then buy Toluene to thin it out 70%, spread it on, then still have to put multiple layers of primer and lots of sanding to come up with a smooth surface. I'm going to look for another NC before I go through all that crap. My life is too short to spend many hours on getting a NC smooth just because it was cheaper to make a 3D printed one..

Have you tried the instructions....? Simple modeling techniques - coat it with either West System epoxy, or regular 12 minute epoxy thinned with 70% rubbing alcohol - prime it, fill with bondo spot filler putty, sand, prime again and paint. Just as it says in the instructions. Tolulene....really?

 

[NateB]

Have you tried the instructions....? Simple modeling techniques - coat it with either West System epoxy, or regular 12 minute epoxy thinned with 70% rubbing alcohol - prime it, fill with bondo spot filler putty, sand, prime again and paint. Just as it says in the instructions. Tolulene....really?

I used US Composites epoxy because it is what I had, but plain BSI epoxy and alcohol was recommended.

I thought the 3D printed nosecone was pretty stout. I'm no expert with plastics and composites, but I'm not sure how much strength is added by a coat of epoxy. The epoxy does fill in the ridges from 3D printing and made finishing much easier. Because of that, I will keep using that technique with other 3D printed components.

 

[Astronaut Cheeseball]

I used US Composites epoxy because it is what I had, but plain BSI epoxy and alcohol was recommended.

I thought the 3D printed nosecone was pretty stout. I'm no expert with plastics and composites, but I'm not sure how much strength is added by a coat of epoxy. The epoxy does fill in the ridges from 3D printing and made finishing much easier. Because of that, I will keep using that technique with other 3D printed components.

Excellent point I'm starting another Binder 3" Fusion and the 3D nose cone is a true work of art. One thing I've learned from early on is the instructions are included for a reason and I try to follow them to the best of my abilities.

 

[Scottydog1]

I used US Composites epoxy because it is what I had, but plain BSI epoxy and alcohol was recommended.

I thought the 3D printed nosecone was pretty stout. I'm no expert with plastics and composites, but I'm not sure how much strength is added by a coat of epoxy. The epoxy does fill in the ridges from 3D printing and made finishing much easier. Because of that, I will keep using that technique with other 3D printed components.

Yep, and that's mainly what it's for. Adds a layer to help finish and remove the spirals - although you can see the epoxy soaking into the "threads" of the 3D printed parts - and we've had customers that dropped them without the epoxy, and they'll split fairly easily - not so much with the epoxy layer - especially when it's done on the inside and out.

Nice job on yours, by the way.... I probably could've helped you with the wrap, but they are not the easiest things - and you're not the only one who gave up on 'em.... I did them all my professional life, and you do get better and better at them..... It's nice that stickershock has virtual impunity from copyright infringement and can rip them off for people. Oh well, I'm sure he has no more money for lawyers than I do.

 

[thzero]

Yep, and that's mainly what it's for. Adds a layer to help finish and remove the spirals - although you can see the epoxy soaking into the "threads" of the 3D printed parts - and we've had customers that dropped them without the epoxy, and they'll split fairly easily - not so much with the epoxy layer - especially when it's done on the inside and out.

yes, thats the weakest point of the 3d print. Seems, I've done no studies or read up on it in depth, but PLA and PETG are pretty porous - heck take a sharpie and write on a PLA or PETG part and you'll see the ink soak into the part. Thus it stands to reason that the epoxy would soak into the material especially at the layers.

But really good tip about coating the inside too.

 

[NateB]

Yep, and that's mainly what it's for. Adds a layer to help finish and remove the spirals - although you can see the epoxy soaking into the "threads" of the 3D printed parts - and we've had customers that dropped them without the epoxy, and they'll split fairly easily - not so much with the epoxy layer - especially when it's done on the inside and out.

Nice job on yours, by the way.... I probably could've helped you with the wrap, but they are not the easiest things - and you're not the only one who gave up on 'em.... I did them all my professional life, and you do get better and better at them..... It's nice that stickershock has virtual impunity from copyright infringement and can rip them off for people. Oh well, I'm sure he has no more money for lawyers than I do.

The wrap went on easy on my Lil' Thor not so much on the 54. Of course, it might have been easier if I had cut the wrap and split the rocket at the coupler instead of building it sealed up like I did.

I'm not sure if I mentioned it in the build or not, but I did coat the insides of the nosecone and coupler with the US Composites epoxy too. If I had to guess the weakest part of this rocket will be finding it if I fly it on a larger 38mm motor.

 

[tOD]

I happened to have West Systems 105 resin and 206 hardener, that should be fine for coating the printed parts, right?

 

[NateB]

I happened to have West Systems 105 resin and 206 hardener, that should be fine for coating the printed parts, right?

I don't see why not. West is already a thin laminating epoxy. It seems perfect for the application.

 

[hball55]

I recently got a Diablo kit and that 3D printed nosecone looks like it is going to be a major PITA. A smooth fiberglass or plastic nosecone would save so much time. I'm dreading the thought of having to go out and buy more longer setting Epoxy, then buy Toluene to thin it out 70%, spread it on, then still have to put multiple layers of primer and lots of sanding to come up with a smooth surface. I'm going to look for another NC before I go through all that crap. My life is too short to spend many hours on getting a NC smooth just because it was cheaper to make a 3D printed one..

Try 20 minute finishing epoxy . . . it’s already thinned. Oh, and it actually takes a bit longer to cure than 20 minutes. I replaced the nosecone on my Diablo with a 4” PML Intellicone . . . it’s only 1/2” shorter than the 2-piece 3D printed cone and you don’t have to bother with coating it.

 

[tOD]

Hi Nate.
Did the Thor ever fly?
I took some time off rocketry and just got around to finishing mine which was built much like yours. It's got the nose mounted Apogee and I'll use a Chute Release.
I'm not sure what I want to do with the vinyl wrap. I may slice it up and use part of it and paint the rest of the rocket.
For the first flight I'll probably be using a 29mm motor, maybe a G79W. The finished weight is around 750grams

 

[NateB]

Sadly no, my Thor hasn't flown yet. It's a little bigger than I'm comfortable flying at my park and I haven't made it to a club launch in a while due to work and weather. I do have a pack of Loki G-70s for the maiden flight, whenever that will be.

 

[tOD]

Went with the wrap.
This thing has more wrinkles than I do!

 

[bobbyg23]

Went with the wrap.
This thing has more wrinkles than I do!

You tried.

 

[NateB]

My wrap looked the same. I'm going to stick to paint and cut decals from now on. If I ever get a vinyl cutter, I'll just make paint masks so there will be no wrinkles and colors will match perfectly.

 

[tOD]

I'll bet the wrinkles won't even be noticable when it's hanging in the top of a tree

 

[tOD]

Now I'm wondering what to do with the unused sled that came with the kit

 

[thzero]

Now I'm wondering what to do with the unused sled that came with the kit

Firewood? Kindling?