Yeah, I'd love to fly a J99, or two (clustered)Bringing back the J99. Cool!
Yeah, I'd love to fly a J99, or two (clustered)Bringing back the J99. Cool!
In an effort to be constructive ... the AeroTech warranty statement is silent on the industry practice of replacing motor hardware damaged by a defective reload. So Charlie is not "to blame" as you put it. Ideally AT should update the RMS™ Reload Kits section of the warranty statement to clarify what AT will do when a defective reload, under warranty, damages any case authorized for use (e.g. Dr Rocket, CTI cross loads, etc…).
I'd like to know why there are no more G80-4's. Indeed, any SU G80. Are the G79,78,77's just as good?
Forgive me if this is answered elsewhere, but is it legal (ie within manufacturer's instructions and therefore not a research motor) to remove the BP ejection charge from a Q Jet motor? I have a saucer that I like to fly on Q Jets but the shortest delay is still long enough that it has landed by the time the ejection charge goes. I would much rather peel back the red caps, dump the charges into my BP can, and not risk starting a fire on the ground.
Thanks!
I routinely remove ejection charges from AT SU motors when using in saucers, pyramids, etc. Then put in a little super lube, and put the cap back on.In my opinion there’s nothing wrong with that. One of the scariest fires I’ve seen was started by an ejection charge on the ground.
They are available just expensive!!!I don't believe the G80's are discontinued, they are now considered DMS all with 14 sec. adjustable delays. They used to be in the Hobbyline category with the various delays. The G80's have a considerably higher total impulse than the others you listed.
I'd like to know why there are no more G80-4's. Indeed, any SU G80. Are the G79,78,77's just as good?
I don't believe the G80's are discontinued, they are now considered DMS all with 14 sec. adjustable delays. They used to be in the Hobbyline category with the various delays. The G80's have a considerably higher total impulse than the others you listed.
They are available just expensive!!!
As an Aerotech vendor, I have found their warranties to be very good. I have extra hardware and reloads to give out on the few times a warranty claim is in order. They have always sent me replacements with my next orders. Even though a good percentage of the time... the reload itself was not the problem... the assembly of the reload was. An O-ring assembled in wrong spot. Delay spacer installed on the charge well end, instead of the fuel grain end. Forward seal disk not properly seated in liner. Grains not bonded to the liner - needed on some reloads. Grain ends not fully glued/inhibited on larger moon burners. There has been a couple reloads that had cracked phenolic liners... these were discovered during the 'inspection' phase of the assembly. I replaced the liner then... both times. They both were successful flights. I'm pretty sure one was chipped during deburring the ends. This is why I check the grain fit first and only debur if needed. Have never needed to do so, and recommend caution.
Rick
Treasure Valley Rocketry
That's good information to know! While I haven't flown enough MPR to experience a defect in my AT stuff, now that I'm jumping back into it with a new build, it is good to know somebody covers warranty issues when "user error" is not the problem!
Just bought an L1000W and threw AT H-130W
I recently burned an AT J180T with normal motor function. When I attempted to clean the motor hardware, after it cooled, I discovered that the phenolic liner was essentially welded or melted to the inside of the motor casing and can not be removed. I did use a generous coating of Super Lube on the outside of the liner when I assembled the motor about an hour before the flight and I'm certain that I followed the assembly instructions correctly. I've never had this happen before and was wondering if anybody else has. Does anybody know any procedure for removing the liner in this situation without damaging the hardware or am I just going to have to buy a new 54/852 case?
View attachment 400593
I like the seal disc on a stick...but prefer a well lubricated liner...just personal preference.Gently heat the case in an oven (less than 200°) or with a heat gun on a moderate setting. Then grab the case with a oven mitt and push the liner out with a seal disc and a stick.
The last three I burned at LDRS, I did not grease the liners.
...........which is correct???
Yes
*I joke. This is one of the many beautiful facets of rocketry where there is no single right answer. In such cases you can ask 3 people and get 4 answers. Maybe the best answer I've gotten to these situations is "Try both, see what works best for you"
And the really funny thing about that piece of advice is that you'll do it one way for 3 burns, and the 4th time it'll be all different, all over again!
I'd like to know why there are no more G80-4's. Indeed, any SU G80. Are the G79,78,77's just as good?
Thanks for the reply. The "K" motor flight is still in the future. So,with this motor just leave out the election charge and let the electronics handle the deployment?
Smart flier!You can leave out the BP and then the delay element will become a nice smoke element. You could also go with backup motor ejection along with your electronics.
I always try to remove the linear and remnants ASAP after the flight. IMHO it might have prevented this stuck situation.
I wonder if their are people who swear by delaying the clean up is easier.
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