I just peeled off the white layer on the coupler.
Build thread: Aerotech HV Arcas
- Thread starter Dane Ronnow
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I did just that, probably the same time you were posting this. And it worked great!
Then I coated the coupler with CA and sanded it. The fit is just slightly loose. A 1" strip of packaging tape on both sides (thanks to @bibbster), and the fit is perfect. Of course, that will change in the field, depending on heat.
Problem solved. Thanks to all!
BTW, @bibbster's suggestion of packaging tape is spot on. I used masking tape first, then the packaging tape, and the difference is night and day. The fit is the same, but the packaging tape slides much easier.
Here's what I used:
Great stuff. But quite a bit stickier than blue tape. If used on cardboard that hasn't been sealed with CA, it will peel the paper when removing.
Here's what I used:
Great stuff. But quite a bit stickier than blue tape. If used on cardboard that hasn't been sealed with CA, it will peel the paper when removing.
I finished making the altimeter bay today. This is identical to the bay I made for my MPR scratch build, with one exception—I couldn't cement the bay into the Aerotech nose cone because it's polypropylene. So I added two small screws to keep it in place.
The bay is constructed from 1/16" sheet polystyrene, with inside dimensions of .5" wide x 1" long x 1.375" deep. All cuts were made by scoring the plastic with a heavy hobby knife. The pieces were then snapped off, and edges sanded.
The pieces were assembled with Testor's 3501 cement, then left to dry.
Once I had the exact outside dimensions, I marked the nose cone and cut the opening with a Dremel tool.
Next came the flange and the latch. Mounting holes were drilled in the flange, then it was cemented to the bay.
The finished assembly was dropped into the nose cone and secured with the two small screws. Then the latch was added.
Next up, installing the motor tube assembly into the lower body tube.
The bay is constructed from 1/16" sheet polystyrene, with inside dimensions of .5" wide x 1" long x 1.375" deep. All cuts were made by scoring the plastic with a heavy hobby knife. The pieces were then snapped off, and edges sanded.
The pieces were assembled with Testor's 3501 cement, then left to dry.
Once I had the exact outside dimensions, I marked the nose cone and cut the opening with a Dremel tool.
Next came the flange and the latch. Mounting holes were drilled in the flange, then it was cemented to the bay.
The finished assembly was dropped into the nose cone and secured with the two small screws. Then the latch was added.
Next up, installing the motor tube assembly into the lower body tube.
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Oh, buddy! Thanks for doing this. You saved me a build thread, but I was gonna do it with an Initiator, thus the 'Wanted' post. I do have to say you have done a sterling job here snd incorporated much more than I would have. Your experience shows thru. Love your ebay. Very inventive and cool to boot! Nice to see the feedback from Initiator001, I'm sure he'll foam at the mouth with what I have done to his babies. There is a small chance he might break my fingers if he's at the next local launch. Waiting for this most excellent build to fly. Carry on. Straight smoke and good chutes!
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Don't need to now, I wuz gonna do a build thread like you, but much simpler. You, sir, have saved me that heartache. I NEVER build a kit. They are just inventory for parts. Lemme getta pic of the last Initiator I butchered. It wuz a quick build, basically to tweak Gary's tail a bit at LDRS 40.
It's a rip on the old Beyonce song " If you like it, put a ring on it" I have a twisted sense of humour. I am actually building my first LPR in decades. Oughta be interesting.
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Okay, that is a very cool rocket!. So, I take it you and the Aerotech peeps have a history?
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Kinda, I think Gary mite have a restraining order.
Rocket people be crazy, eh?
Installation of the motor tube assembly into the lower BT was pretty straightforward. I sanded the forward CR to get a better fit. Then I ran a bead of 30 min. epoxy around the inside of the BT about 11 inches from the bottom end, and slid the assembly in until the fins hit the front of the slots.
After the epoxy on the forward CR had cured, I applied a fillet of epoxy to the rear of the mid CR by reaching through the back end of the BT with a glue stick.
Next, I applied a CA fillet to the fin/BT joints. But first, I needed to straighten out the four short sections of BT where the fin slots were extended to the end. I did this by inserting a coupler wrapped with parchment paper into the BT until it seated against the rear edge of the fin tabs.
Then the fin fillets were applied.
After the fillets dried, I installed the aft CR using J-B Weld where the CR contacts the rear fin lok ring, and 30 min. epoxy for the CR/BT joint.
Because the instructions for the new version of this kit called for a full inch of motor tube extending rearward from the aft CR, I added a half-inch section of thick-walled tube that would sit between the CR and the motor retainer base, giving the base a foundation to sit against. I used J-B Weld on this piece of tubing, as well as the motor retainer.
I let that cure overnight, then added a 1-inch piece of coupler to the bottom of the BT to cover the extended fin slots.
After the epoxy on the forward CR had cured, I applied a fillet of epoxy to the rear of the mid CR by reaching through the back end of the BT with a glue stick.
Next, I applied a CA fillet to the fin/BT joints. But first, I needed to straighten out the four short sections of BT where the fin slots were extended to the end. I did this by inserting a coupler wrapped with parchment paper into the BT until it seated against the rear edge of the fin tabs.
Then the fin fillets were applied.
After the fillets dried, I installed the aft CR using J-B Weld where the CR contacts the rear fin lok ring, and 30 min. epoxy for the CR/BT joint.
Because the instructions for the new version of this kit called for a full inch of motor tube extending rearward from the aft CR, I added a half-inch section of thick-walled tube that would sit between the CR and the motor retainer base, giving the base a foundation to sit against. I used J-B Weld on this piece of tubing, as well as the motor retainer.
I let that cure overnight, then added a 1-inch piece of coupler to the bottom of the BT to cover the extended fin slots.
I'm skipping the addition of the scale fin can and repurposing 2 inches of it to strengthen the top of the lower BT against potential zippering. I slipped this piece over the top of the BT, making certain the edges of both were flush, then flowed medium CA into the joint from the top and bottom.
That completes the assembly of all components. I need to fine-tune the fit between the tube coupler and lower BT. Then it's a matter of waiting until the weather cools enough to paint outside. Maybe September.
That completes the assembly of all components. I need to fine-tune the fit between the tube coupler and lower BT. Then it's a matter of waiting until the weather cools enough to paint outside. Maybe September.
what paint are you going to use?
I had good results with Krylon on my scratch build. So I'll use that on this one as well—gray filler primer on the tubes, then white primer on tubes and fins, then gloss white and cherry red. If I use the nose cone that came with the kit, I'll prime it with Dupli-Color adhesion promoter, and finish with cherry red Krylon.
