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Nylon... It has held just fine for 100's of HP launches. This is just my first 75mm. 54's have been no problem.
 
View attachment 374224
A replacement nose cone for my Mach 1 Rocketry BT50 Black Brant kit build. The nose cone includes space for the FireFly altimeter and a shoulder that threads into the bottom of the nose cone to hold the altimeter in place.

Did this work out for you? I am drawing a similar NC right now for a scratch build. I would like to go with a Haack profile but the parabolic/ogive with an ellipsoid tip would work. I don't have a 3d printer, would anyone be willing to print a NC for me, can F&F Paypal.
 
Yes. The Black Brant has flown 6 times and the Firefly altimeter works well when I remember to put it in. :)

Have you checked your local library to see if they have a maker space with 3D printers? More and more are now providing that service for a modest fee; usually material costs.
 
I'm in the early stages of printing out an un-produced, not even prototyped, Fun Rockets launch pad from almost exactly 20 years ago.
 
My first print with PETG. I only had a small sample to try out before buying whole rolls. This was ZYLtech PETG. Printed fincan at 240° bed temp 75°on Ender 3 Pro (Uber modified) Using the stock flexible magnetic bed with glue stick. String test was not so good, but went for it anyway . Nose cone printed at 227°bed temp 75°some stringing inside, but I have found that OpenSCAD generated files are often difficult to print, don't quite know why, If anyone knows an answer to that let me know. I had to calculate the filament needs, this BT-20 size was the largest I could print given the sample was 25g. The parts were 16g. (Would have been 30g if BT-50) This stuff seems to sand much better than PLA.The inside of the fincan was rather rough...

petgnose and fins.jpg petgrocket.jpg
 
I am upgrading and repairing my ender 3 with a bondtech, autoleveling, magnetic flex plate (steel), dual Z drive, and a silent controller board. More to come.
 
Printing a 2.6" retro rocket tail cone fin can I doodled up. Happy to see the fins all survived! I was worried the would get knocked over.20190814_072041.jpeg
 
Looks good, the scary part is before the fins get connected to the main body part.... Send me parts list for your fan assy. And if you have thingiverse files or stl's
 
So this arrived on Friday.


I plan on printing the new R4 extruder body for my second MK3S that I am building using this PETG. Now correct me if I am wrong, but I believe that this "Carbon Fiber" PETG is created by adding CF powder, not chopped tow. It this is the case how does this add any appreciable strength to the PETG? I thought it was the tow strands that added strength to CF?

From Carbon X description:
CarbonX™ CFR Carbon Fiber Reinforced Co-Polyester Filament

Made in the USA using premium PETG and High-Modulus Carbon Fiber (not carbon powder or milled carbon fiber). CarbonX™ CFR is an improved CF reinforced 3D printing filament vs. the competition. This filament is ideal for anyone that desires a structural component with high modulus, excellent surface quality, dimensional stability, light weight, and ease of printing.
 
That is the Hero Me V3 fan shroud with a 40mm swirl fan guard. I plan on upgrading my part cooling fan to a 5015 as the stock 4010 is pretty weak and I still get curling in some directions.
here are the thing links for the shroud/duct and the swirl fan guard I used.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3182917
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3539938

Awesome, I did read recently that cooling is kind of a dark secret... too much cooling can cause curling as the part is warping due to excessive cooling,and slower cooling can result in a stronger part. (this was tested... but the caveat is more stringing...)
 
This filament is ideal for anyone that desires a structural component with high modulus, excellent surface quality, dimensional stability, light weight, and ease of printing.

After printing several things with this filament, I agree with the above description. Keeping in mind that the downside to "high" modulus is that, depending on the design and printer settings, you can end up with a brittle print.

The "surface quality" or finish is unique and very appealing; it is my favourite finish, especially for black.
 
48608951803_c2652bfbd5_z_d.jpg

Printing back ups for LDRS that and seems like I end up giving away my avbays at launches so nice to have extras. All petg,
 
My first two prints with my Anycubic Photon. Keck clips for my lab and a Lego mug for my daughter.
IMG_3135.jpg
IMG_3136.jpg
 
What are your first impressions on the printer?

Thus far I'm impressed. The software is underdeveloped, and the system itself isn't fancy. And resin-based printing is markedly different from FDM. It feels much more like a chemistry experiment.

But for the money, the Anycubic Photon is a great printer. If you are looking for a cheap (<$300) way to get into photolithographic printing, I highly recommend it.
 
Many years ago, when my group at work (UOP, not AeppelTreow) expanded into the lab I used for years, it was a photolithography lab. Pre-3D printing. The back half had a special ventilation system that lowered the ceiling to about 6’. And all the fluorescent lights had UV shielding on them that made for a strong yellow color.

So chemistry experiment sounds right to me.
 
I've been printing and tweaking the design of a fully printed rc airplane. This is the aft half of the fuselage. Lots of .4mm and .8mm walls. Had to design in some removable supports at the base to get this part to print well. Still isn't perfect.20190902_144652_HDR.jpeg
 
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