HOW DO YOU APPLY DECALS

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hball55

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The type of decals I am having trouble with are the ones that go around the circumference of the rocket. The ends rarely meet. These are the vinyl decals, not water slide (easy to apply).

I am hoping there is a trick to get it right, as taking an exacto knife to try and peel the end so I can grab the decal and reapply it has had mixed results, usually ending with a damaged decal.
 
Is the decal rectangular? Draw a line down the body tube with your tool of choice like you would for fin alignment on an Estes rocket. Line up one edge of the decal with that line. You'll at least get close enough that no one is going to notice.
 
Is the decal rectangular? Draw a line down the body tube with your tool of choice like you would for fin alignment on an Estes rocket. Line up one edge of the decal with that line. You'll at least get close enough that no one is going to notice.
Plus use a tape hinge on the short edge.
Have the ends on the same side as the lugs/buttons. That way when they don't line up perfectly it's easy to hide.
 
For vinyl, use a spray bottle filled with warm water and a few drops of dish detergent.
Spray the painted surface and apply the decal.
This will make it adjustable for repositioning .
Squeegee out the water and air bubbles and burnish.
Lesson learned after many crooked vinyl decal applications.
See Mark Hayes' Stickershock23 FAQ section for some good info.
 
For waterslide decals wet the surface first with a spray bottle. This will enable you to move the decal. Make a few tick marks around the tube using a fin alignment guide. You can erase the marks later or if you make them light enough then ok.
 
Sorry if this is the wrong forum for this question: I am building a scratch build of the Estes Menace #2173, and have it painted with most of the decals applied (I printed most of them on waterslide decal paper), but the black and red stripes I printed on vinyl sticker/decal paper and cut them out with an xacto knife/blade and a straight edge (metal ruler). The two winglets have a strip of black wrapped around the leading edge about midway between the body and the tip of the wing. The top side sticks just fine, but the back side (which is about 1/8" shorter than the top side) keeps peeling away and sticks out.

Does anyone know how to make the vinyl decal stick on both sides (or point me in the right direction)?
 
Does anyone know how to make the vinyl decal stick on both sides (or point me in the right direction)?
I'm guessing what the problem is from your description since you don't have pics. Maybe the vinyl is too thick and is trying to return to its flat position? So the adhesive is not strong enough to keep it flat? You could try gentle heat on the vinyl to soften it, like from a hair dryer. Keep the dryer moving, don't stay on one spot too long. Disclaimer: I've seen this done but haven't done this myself.
Or...........
Instead of vinyl try spray painting decal paper and cut out the shape then apply like a regular waterslide. Conforms to sharp bends more easily than vinyl.
Or.........
Use a stronger spray adhesive for the vinyl. I don't have a recommendation for that.
 
For vinyl, use a spray bottle filled with warm water and a few drops of dish detergent.

Since this thread is re-opened I have to ask: Does this method work with the decals Estes provides, the non-waterslide ones such as in the Der Big Red Max kit? Not sure if they're vinyl or not, but they are sticky-backed.
 
Since this thread is re-opened I have to ask: Does this method work with the decals Estes provides, the non-waterslide ones such as in the Der Big Red Max kit? Not sure if they're vinyl or not, but they are sticky-backed.
It's the water that allows you to re-position the decal, not the liquid soap. Soap is a surfactant, it breaks the surface tension of the water so that it doesn't bead up on the surface. This allows you to put the decal on a thin sheet of water rather than on discrete beads. Use only a drop or two in a pan of water.
 
I'm guessing what the problem is from your description since you don't have pics. Maybe the vinyl is too thick and is trying to return to its flat position? So the adhesive is not strong enough to keep it flat? You could try gentle heat on the vinyl to soften it, like from a hair dryer. Keep the dryer moving, don't stay on one spot too long. Disclaimer: I've seen this done but haven't done this myself.
Or...........
Instead of vinyl try spray painting decal paper and cut out the shape then apply like a regular waterslide. Conforms to sharp bends more easily than vinyl.
Or.........
Use a stronger spray adhesive for the vinyl. I don't have a recommendation for that.

I do have a heat gun, and thought about doing that, but was afraid they would shrink a bit too much.

I also thought about applying waterslide paper over it with nothing printed on it, but wasn't sure that would hold the vinyl down, and maybe it would start peeling up and breaking through the waterslide material. Do you think that would hold them down?

I ended up using a drop of E6000 on one winglet, and thin CA on the other. After applying the E6000 on one side, I used some of those little plastic spring clamps to keep it closed up while it cured - they are both sticking now, although the side I used CA on; some of the label has already started peeling up. The side with E6000 seems to be working better... I've got pics attached, and yes, I do believe they are so thick that they do try to straighten themselves out, and lift up on the thinner (bottom) side.

I didn't think about just printing those black strips on waterslide paper instead of vinyl, but I figured the vinyl would look better. I may just do that and print those two winglet strips on waterslide decal paper and maybe use some Micro Set/Sol.

Just brainstorming here - and thanks for all the replies - I had NO idea you could use water/soap on vinyl sticker decals, so I haven't ever used that method. I'll have to see if there is a video on youtube or apogee's site on how to apply vinyl sticker decals using this method.IMG_0698_cut.jpgIMG_0702.JPG
 
I also thought about applying waterslide paper over it with nothing printed on it, but wasn't sure that would hold the vinyl down, and maybe it would start peeling up and breaking through the waterslide material. Do you think that would hold them down?
Replace the vinyl. It's too thick. Maybe thin vinyl electrical tape. If that still lifts then thin decal film spray painted black. Or old school mask and paint.
Laters.
 
Maybe:

1. apply masking tape, a string, or an elastic band around the rocket.
2. apply the decal following the masking tape, string, or elastic band.
3. remove the masking tape, string, or elastic band.

I never tried this but it looks easy and sweet when I picture it.
 
For stripes I use automotive pinstriping tape, as it is thin and pliable. It is available in various colors and widths, some of which I could only find online. So far the edges have all stayed down, even the ones wrapping around the fins. For applications like that I make sure that ends of the tape do not occur on the edges of the fin, and I overlap the joint a bit. I use a series of light pencil dots placed with a ruler to line things up. Don't press down hard/burnish until you like the alignment. Make sure the paint is very dry in case you do have to remove it and reposition before burnishing. This has always worked well for me. You can also cut tapers and other shapes with a sharp hobby knife.
 
For stripes I use automotive pinstriping tape, as it is thin and pliable.

+1 on that.

On protos and one-offs I use book covering self adhesive vinyl: much cheaper than paying a vinyl cutter for a simple job. Cut with a NEW single sided razor blade. I learned this from @hcmbanjo and it works like a charm.

Waterslide decals I haven't used for years*, so any advice would be bad poor extremely poor next to useless. I have friends who swear by Micro Sol and Micro Set for that application.

* I really must build a kit soon... 🤔
 
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